Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Seedy Subjects! => Grow From Seed => Topic started by: Hristo on January 12, 2011, 08:28:43 AM
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Maybe 5% germination rate here ( 1 out of 20 seeds ) and my chances of keeping this going are slim I suspect;
Tylecodon singularis
The adult is a stunner if you look up a pic!!
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A strange and extraordinary plant! You can't grow this one in your garden?!
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No, not in my garden sadly, too cold,wet etc!!
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Glaucidium palmatum germinating now. I got moist packed seeds from a friend some time ago. Kept the pack in the fridge, and when I opened it a week ago, all the seeds had started to grow roots. I quicky transfred them to a pot and a few days later the first green sedlings started to appear. I just hope it is the white form, as it is supposed to be. I never managed to obtain a plant with white flowers, even if I have tried, both by buying plants and by growing them from seeds.
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Glaucidium palmatum germinating now. I got moist packed seeds from a friend some time ago. Kept the pack in the fridge, and when I opened it a week ago, all the seeds had started to grow roots. I quicky transfred them to a pot and a few days later the first green sedlings started to appear. I just hope it is the white form, as it is supposed to be. I never managed to obtain a plant with white flowers, even it i have tried, both by byuing plants and by growing them from seeds.
I have been given last fall a possible plant of G.palmatum leucanthemum. But it was nearly as little as the one we see on your pic :-\ So I must wait some 3/4 perhaps 5 years I think before knowing if it is white or not ( everything is so long to grow here). I'll send you seeds of it, if it's the case. But something tells me that you will perhaps get a white exemplar long before me...!
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I obtained two plants last year - pieces of a flowering specimen - so I suppose they are white ;D
I'll tell you when they flower . . here's the common colour:
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Have a look.
http://www.plantzafrica.com/veldflora/1993/namaplakkie2.htm
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Maybe 5% germination rate here ( 1 out of 20 seeds ) and my chances of keeping this going are slim I suspect;
Tylecodon singularis
The adult is a stunner if you look up a pic!!
i don't remember this species of Tylecodon;interesting.. i only have one sp, more ordinary looking- fat stems with small succulent semi deciduous leaves; i guess this one would have a tuber/caudex below ground?
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Hi Cohan, yes I guess it will develop a below ground caudex. I was attracted to it because of the leaves. I've been aquiring Eriospermum species and came accross this Tylecoden species whilst 'hunting' for Eriospermum!
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Hi Cohan, yes I guess it will develop a below ground caudex. I was attracted to it because of the leaves. I've been aquiring Eriospermum species and came accross this Tylecoden species whilst 'hunting' for Eriospermum!
where did you acquire the erios, and any success with seed? i have had about 5 packets (silverhill once, and twice from penrock) with 0 germination :(
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Developing protocorms of;
Orchis laxiflora ssp. elegans
Dactylorhiza romana 'Yellow'
Dactylorhiza romana 'Pale' ( from a pink / white bicolor form )
Protocorms also developing for D.sambucina, O.laxiflora ( Alba form ), D.saccifera
As can be seen they all look the same, no surprise there I guess!
The Spiranthes sowing shown on the previous page has yielded a further three germinations.
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Chris,
So how are you germinating them? Is that just on cardboard? By a rather strange coincidence I was just in a topic about germinating Dactylorhiza from seed..... then 2 topics later I saw this posting. Did you do anything special with the cardboard to start the germination, or is the correct fungi in your ecosystem already and so it automatically appeared on the cardboard? I'm guessing by the comment about the previous page that this was split off from something else that I've missed? I'd love to know details. If Dacts will germinate on cardboard relatively easily I'd love to give it a try!! :o
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Hi Paul,
More info and discussion in this thread on the Terrestrial Orchid Forum;
http://forum.terrorchid.org/viewtopic.php?p=8319#8319 (http://forum.terrorchid.org/viewtopic.php?p=8319#8319)
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Developing protocorms of;
Orchis laxiflora ssp. elegans
Dactylorhiza romana 'Yellow'
Dactylorhiza romana 'Pale' ( from a pink / white bicolor form )
Protocorms also developing for D.sambucina, O.laxiflora ( Alba form ), D.saccifera
As can be seen they all look the same, no surprise there I guess!
The Spiranthes sowing shown on the previous page has yielded a further three germinations.
more encouraging results!
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Indeed, the Spiranthes is developing well, 2nd leaf has developed and it is beginning to form an 'adult' tuber!!
My 'plan' is to cut it out of the cardboard once early spring has arrived and plant it in a suitable place in the garden,
probably near Spiranthes spiralis.
The only Orchis to show any germinations is laxiflora which is a wetland species, much like Dactylorhiza. On the Terrestrial
Orchid Forum Fred mooted the idea that this method may be more applicable to such species. Modifications with addition of a
soil / crushed limestone mix may be an approach that will cater for species from better drained substrates.
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Very cool stuff, for sure!
I'm not sure what the soil ph is where I collected the Spiranthes, I suspect they are fairly flexible: occurring in what I think should be classed as fens with very organic, peaty soil, but also (including the two populations I have found in recent years) in quite clayey soil in roadside ditches (wet to seasonally wet) up the banks and right up onto the edge of the gravel road in one location..
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I think it was in the Wisley Log I saw an article on growing fritillaria in seramis and thought I would give it a try.
Here is Fritillaria obliqua sown in September 2010 just germinating. They are sown in cat litter and have just had their first feed. I got the seed from crossing my two plants one from Pilous and one from the Wallis'.
I also have two pots of seed of F. crassifolia sown the same way germinating from plants from my own collections.
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Looks good Tony - prompted me to check mine and confirm that my F. tuntasia seed are also germinating, around their parents (also planted in cat litter). The pot is a mix of clones and one plant is almost in flower whilst the others are only just showing!
Also appearing are the biflora group Anemone - here are tschernjaewi and petiolulosa from my own seed. Biflora itself is only just showing and is about two weeks off being at this stage. As happens with many genera, they germinate at around the time buds emerge on the mature plants - see last picture of Anemone tschernjaewi.
I hope some of those forumists I sent seed to last summer can report germination? At least now I know the seed was viable (including the tschernjaewi seed I sent to the exchange, which was out of the same bag)! :D
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The germination of orchids reminds me of an old article in
Growing from Seeds, the later Plantsman,
on germination of Cypripedium on kitchen towels.
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I was surprised that Lilium hansonii germinated so early. December was very cold here in the Netherlands (as in most of western en northern Europe) and January was slightly warmer than normal but nothing exceptional. So I did not expect to see this species germinate so early.
Lilium macklinae was sown inside and started to germinated after 2 weeks.
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I only had one plant of Meconopsis punicea last year and did not expect to get seed. I think I did try to transfer pollen from Meconopsis x cookei 'Old Rose' but too far back to remember. Anyway I got a couple of seed capsules. I didn't think the seeds were big enough or fat enough so did not send any to the exchanges. I sowed a potful, quite thickly on July 19th and was most surprised to find so many germinating last week.
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These two seedpots started to germinate at about the same time.
Muscari pulchellum
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Scilla italica
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I divided the seed in each pot and sowed half about 2 cm deep and the rest just under the gravel topping.
I presume that the ones which have emerged without their seed-coats are the ones sown at depth.
cheers
fermi
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Benign neglect has once again resulted in germination! This time Colchicum persicum from AGS 2006 (STAR collection) Seedex
sown 6-08-2006 and left outdoors through all weather including the 2009 summer with 45oC temperatures!
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Could it have been something to do with its resident geranium? or the mosses?
Who knows?
cheers
fermi
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My Haemanthus Coccineus seeds have just started to germinate i was lucky enough to get 6 seeds and all 6 have germinated this one is the biggest though...
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Here is an I. korolkowii seed 4 weeks after cutting
John B
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Two seedling.
Lachenalia comptonii with hairy leaves
and
Massonia seedlings just two months old.
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These seeds arrived from Kristl Walek while we were away in Europe and I'd been waiting for a chance to sow them - most got sown on January 8th and yesterday 3 were already showing germination!
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And these Rhodophiala came from Santiago and germinated last month!
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cheers
fermi
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I've re-named this thread and hope that many pictures of seedlings will be posted... not only to show how much time they may have taken to germinate, but also to show what the various young plants look like... as a follow on the the Seed ID project.
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Fermi,
Here is one of the same Hibiscus coccineus as your just-emerged seedling, not much older than yours, that I rescued from the petri dishes after testing.
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This is likely old information for most of you---but perhaps it might be useful to someone.
A friend in Norway sent a huge pile of podophyllum hexandrum seed---and because i did not know it was coming, was unable to tell him NOT TO MOIST-PACK this particular species---because I wanted to end up with seed not seedlings (fresh seed of this species sown immediately, or moist packed after collection will produce almost 100% germination within 2 months or so).
But it did arrive moist packed & I juggled the invariable "did not need more of these in the garden" with the potential danger of hydrated seeds being dried & re-hydrated again later (which sometimes kills the seed). And of course I guessed, considering the time period since collection and moist packing, that the seed was likely just on the cusp of radicle emergence.
So I simply transferred the seeds from zip lock baggie to plastic storage container to give them more space & forgot about them.
Well, I think you know the next installment to this story. The picture actually shows the small amount left today after 200+ seedlings with their humungous roots have been quickly potted into deep flats, way too close together, with not enough root run. But if they survive until March, I will be able to deal with them better out in the (unheated) greenhouse.
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As a PS to the above, I have for some years wanted to follow up on a study I read some time ago suggesting the most efficient manner of raising Podophyllum hexandrum to maturity. The relevant passage is as follows:
Treatment of cotyledonary leaves of 1 week-old-seedlings with 200 ppm GA(3 )resulted in true or functional leaf emergence within 7 days, and the resultant plants were also more vigorous than the ones obtained from manual removal of cotyledonary leaves. The study helped advance the establishment of seedlings by one growing season (almost 1 year).
For those of you who have not been down the "podophyllum seed road", seed normally sends out a very long root first, then sometime later a cotyledon leaf will emerge above ground. Normally the plant will do nothing further its first season, except developing its root system, with the cotyledon (not first true leaf) on top. On some rare occasions, and without human interference a true leaf is formed instead of the cotyledon leaf in the germinating year, but that is not the norm. Normally the seedlings go through a cold period later and the first true leaf appears the second year.
So, as I have so many seedlings to play with, I have prepared two large pots---one batch has been treated with GA-3 today. The second pot will have all the cotyledon leaves removed once they fully emerge. If the study is correct and the true leaves emerge within a week or so, this is truly significant & cuts out at least a year in the growth process. I will report what happens later.
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What an extraordinary project, Kristl. I cannot say I have heard of this way of taking off the cotyledons... it seems rather drastic. :o It will be a most interesting experiment.
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With P. hexandrum I find the two cotyledons come at germination and in the second year the true leaves form, as one might expect but with all the others I now have, including some from our other Nova Scotian, the true leaves have come straight up first, no cotyledons at all, and then have followed up with a second and now a third true leaf, all in less than a year from sowing.
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With P. hexandrum I find the two cotyledons come at germination and in the second year the true leaves form, as one might expect but with all the others I now have, including some from out other Nova Scotian, the true leaves have come straight up first, no cotyledons at all, and then have followed up with a second and now a third true leaf, all in less than a year from sowing.
Lesley,
I have read another study from India that noted the following of seed of P. hexandrum, collected from alpine regions, which I found very interesting and is obviously an adaptive measure:
Seed germination in this species is very. poor under natural conditions. The main reasons seem to be a postharvest ripening requirement (Nautiyal et al. 1987) and a hard seed coat, especially in temperate populations where germination takes several months. It was interesting to note that whereas the seeds of most (but not all) temperate populations showed hypogeal germination, all of the alpine populations undergo epigeal germination. The adaptive significance of such variation in germination behaviour of alpine
and temperate populations is not clear.
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I have often, over the years, wished I had made a list of some of the interesting/funny letters I have received from my seed customers. This is one I received this morning:
I am considering ordering several packets of fern spores. Can you please let me know roughly how many spores are in each packet? Or, roughly how many mature ferns each packet will yield?
It is very hard for me to answer some of the letters in an earnest frame of mind.
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I have often, over the years, wished I had made a list of some of the interesting/funny letters I have received from my seed customers. This is one I received this morning:
I am considering ordering several packets of fern spores. Can you please let me know roughly how many spores are in each packet? Or, roughly how many mature ferns each packet will yield?
It is very hard for me to answer some of the letters in an earnest frame of mind.
Oh, I did believe you counted the spores ;) and wrote "Contains at least 6.5 * 106 spores that will give approximately 3.2 * 104 prothalli if correctly sown. Each prothallus can give several fern plants".
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These 3 germinated in 10 days 16-20C.
Cremanthodium sp 1 Shika Shan; Cremanthodium sp aff campanulatum Grongga Shan; Hedysarum boreale var boreale
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Trond, I just saw your picture of the Cremanthodium campanulatum seedlings. That's a plant I'm really looking for!
So let the cat out of the bag: where did you get your seeds from? I never saw them offered anywhere.
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Dianthus nitidus,, I had some 2 year old seeds, stored in room temperature, that I wanted to test. They germinated after 5 days, and 100%, as you can see :)
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Trond, I just saw your picture of the Cremanthodium campanulatum seedlings. That's a plant I'm really looking for!
So let the cat out of the bag: where did you get your seeds from? I never saw them offered anywhere.
I think it's a good guess Trond has found the seeds on this list http://trillium.no/
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Trond, I just saw your picture of the Cremanthodium campanulatum seedlings. That's a plant I'm really looking for!
So let the cat out of the bag: where did you get your seeds from? I never saw them offered anywhere.
Yes, Emma, Magnar is perfectly right! I got the seeds from Bjørnar.
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Trond, I just saw your picture of the Cremanthodium campanulatum seedlings. That's a plant I'm really looking for!
So let the cat out of the bag: where did you get your seeds from? I never saw them offered anywhere.
Yes, Emma, Magnar is perfectly right! I got the seeds from Bjørnar.
I bought a few species from that list too,, among them the C. aff campanulatum.. will sow them this week
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Thank you Magnar & Trond!!! I placed an order...
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As a PS to the above, I have for some years wanted to follow up on a study I read some time ago suggesting the most efficient manner of raising Podophyllum hexandrum to maturity. The relevant passage is as follows:
Treatment of cotyledonary leaves of 1 week-old-seedlings with 200 ppm GA(3 )resulted in true or functional leaf emergence within 7 days, and the resultant plants were also more vigorous than the ones obtained from manual removal of cotyledonary leaves. The study helped advance the establishment of seedlings by one growing season (almost 1 year).
For those of you who have not been down the "podophyllum seed road", seed normally sends out a very long root first, then sometime later a cotyledon leaf will emerge above ground. Normally the plant will do nothing further its first season, except developing its root system, with the cotyledon (not first true leaf) on top. On some rare occasions, and without human interference a true leaf is formed instead of the cotyledon leaf in the germinating year, but that is not the norm. Normally the seedlings go through a cold period later and the first true leaf appears the second year.
So, as I have so many seedlings to play with, I have prepared two large pots---one batch has been treated with GA-3 today. The second pot will have all the cotyledon leaves removed once they fully emerge. If the study is correct and the true leaves emerge within a week or so, this is truly significant & cuts out at least a year in the growth process. I will report what happens later.
First follow-up on the above, posted January 18th.
Today in the pot of GA-3 treated Podophyllum hexandrums I noticed the emergence of true leaves in about 75% of the potted seedlings. This is truly exciting. HURRAY FOR SCIENCE!!!!!
LAST follow-up--
Today I am posting the mostly final pictures of the Podophyllum a few weeks later (these have actually been at the true leaf stage for some time now.
The last picture shows a close-up of one seedling that was already too advanced when I applied the GA-3. It finished sending out the cotyledon leaf---and, after GA-3 application, sent out the true leaf on a stalk right next to it.
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Marvelous shots of the growing leaves Kristl. Great stuff, thank you! 8)
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Filipendula vulgaris, I wonder if they're edible. ;)
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News that the Seedy people have finished their job, for the most part. An incredibly good job and we are all grateful and admiring of them all. Maggi, if you happen to be visiting one of them, perhaps with a reviving chocolate cake or drink, you could mention that some seeds are germinating already! ;D
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Germination has started, and every morning I check for new seedlings. Here some pics from last week, all species germinated at 20 degrees C, and the number of days is from sowing to germinating :
Anemone multifida 16 days
Geum pentapetalum 13 days
Leontopodium nivalis ssp nivalis 9 days
Lilium souliei 15 days
Meconopsis racemosa 11 days
Nomocharis aperta 15 days
Potentilla porphyrantha 9 days
Primula burmanica 12 days
Pulsatilla albana 19 days
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Magnar - I recently got seed of Lilium souliei from Bjornar. I planted them immediately and placed them in the cold room under lights where they've been for several weeks. Are you saying they do not require cold treatment and should go into warmth (+15c) immediately or shall I leave them at 5c for another few months?
johnw
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I can answer that one: they don't need to be stratified, they do however need cool conditions as seedlings, or they start dying off... Not sure if it's a need for cool temperatures in general or just cool nights like Meconopsis, but I lost nearly all my seedlings last time when I sowed them inside :P
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And I have moved the seedlings to the greenhouse where the temperature is between +2 and + 10 at the moment.
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Thanks to you both. I shall move them under lights at 18c and as soon as they sprout back iunto the cold room under lights where it will be then be 8-10c. Safer there than in the greenhouse where the temperature can soar at this time of year.
So delighted to at last get a chance at L. souliei.
johnw
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My Erythronium oregonum seed has started germinating! These are seeds from NNS that were collected in 2007 that I go two years ago when Ron was trying to get rid of his stock after retiring from his seed collection business. I sowed them last October.
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Haven't had a chance to take pics but I have trilliums, androsace, sausseria, astragalus, lewisia and meconopsis germinating now.... Oh so many seed pots...
B
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Hellebores can grow quite robustly even at the seedling stage; especially foetidus. The orientalis hybrids tend to move along at a more normal pace.
One of a few trays of Cyclamen (germinated last season) and being fattened up. Now that I can actually finally grow them outdoors, I am madly sowing more....yesterday it was hundreds of C. purpurascens.
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Oh kristl!
Those cyclamen look fantastic!
B
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Wonderful looking babies, Kristl.
Can you tell me what sort of mix you are using in the containers?
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Helen, Unfortunately there is no replicable answer to this because for the large trays, usually reserved for seedlings I am growing lots of or are at a more advanced stage of growing on, I just use all sorts of recycled mix --- both bagged seedling mix as well as heavier, true soil (compost, potting soil etc). The Hellebores were rescued from moist packing as they were just starting to germinate and just spread out in the large tray willy nilly.
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Really exciting to see seed germinating. I have just received a batch of seed from Kristl (thankyou!) and greatly looking forward to sowing and growing them - including Pulsatilla vulgaris 'Gotlandica', a super wild form of the Pasque Flower. I had seed of this from Richard Bird years ago and then lost it and have wanted to grow it ever since.
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Helen, Unfortunately there is no replicable answer to this because for the large trays, usually reserved for seedlings I am growing lots of or are at a more advanced stage of growing on, I just use all sorts of recycled mix --- both bagged seedling mix as well as heavier, true soil (compost, potting soil etc). The Hellebores were rescued from moist packing as they were just starting to germinate and just spread out in the large tray willy nilly.
Thanks, Kristl, it looks great.
Will keep muddling along with bits of this and that.
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Some new seedling pics today:
Aquilegia canadensis
Aster alpinus dolomiticus
Aster vvedenskyi
Codonopsis ovata
Potentilla dickinsii
Primula maximowiczii
Pterocephalus hookeri
Pulsatilla patens flavescens
Soroseris sp coll Zheduo Shan Sichuan
Thalictrum delavayi
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Interesting Magnar ! Here only few germinating at the moment .
Rhododphiala is one of the very few....
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Interesting Magnar ! Here only few germinating at the moment .
Rhododphiala is one of the very few....
Kris - Same thing here. R. ananuca came up this past weekend. About a week or so since I sowed it.
johnw
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Kris - Same thing here. R. ananuca came up this past weekend. About a week or so since I sowed it.
johnw
So it looks like they keep more or less the rhythm of their homecountry John , don't you think so ?
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I hope that the ones from this tray did'nt germinate already ;D
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Kris - Same thing here. R. ananuca came up this past weekend. About a week or so since I sowed it.
johnw
So it looks like they keep more or less the rhythm of their homecountry John , don't you think so ?
I really don't know Kris. I having been trying to figure out their rhythms for quite some time. Seems they sprout when sown and moistened, after that I am at a loss. I sprout them warm in bags and then move them under the coldroom lights and in late Spring into the greenhouse wehen there's more room. I have been trying to keep notes on when the various species go dormant and then start to grow again. In fact a few have just started to grow in the cold greenhouse and I will record which and give you a list of which species do what. There may be some holes, those ones may be permanently dormant.
I may have some araucana seed which was identified by Alberto in a posting as should you need any. I did send it in to the seedex though and you may be growing it. BTW the yellow form selfed gave poor germination but I have have moved it into the cold prematurely. Some may have received this species as elwesii in the past.
johnw - +4c and grey
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I really don't know Kris. I having been trying to figure out their rhythms for quite some time. Seems they sprout when sown and moistened, after that I am at a loss. I sprout them warm in bags and then move them under the coldroom lights and in late Spring into the greenhouse wehen there's more room. I have been trying to keep notes on when the various species go dormant and then start to grow again. In fact a few have just started to grow in the cold greenhouse and I will record which and give you a list of which species do what. There may be some holes, those ones may be permanently dormant.
I may have some araucana seed which was identified by Alberto in a posting as should you need any. I did send it in to the seedex though and you may be growing it. BTW the yellow form selfed gave poor germination but I have have moved it into the cold prematurely. Some may have received this species as elwesii in the past.
johnw - +4c and grey
Many thanks for your comment John . I sown 4 or 5 different species this year .So far only one is germinating. I have one young plant that's refusing to flower for the moment. It is one that I obtained from a nursery. But it is strange because it make some leaves each year but always on different moments ..So I don't know if I treat them right ?
Yes , I wan't to trie that aruacana ...
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Kris - PM your address to me and I will post them tomorrow.
Three more R. bagnoldii and two ananuca (of which I know nothing about) came up overnight. Which species was it that you obtained at the nursery. I might have some notes on it?
Some of mine do much the same thing. It probably does not help that some of the dormant ones mistakenly get watered in the winter, especially if they are hiding amongst the leafy ones. The araucana never goes truly dormant here and puts out new leaves in very late Spring and then again in early winter though in less profusion.
johnw - +4c
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And these Rhodophiala came from Santiago and germinated last month! (Attachment Link) cheers fermi
Fermi - These look happy enough and I guess safe to say it is a happy summer-grower. Can you tell us which species it is?
johnw
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Kris - I did a quick run-through the Rhodophialas to check which were dormant and which starting to grow in the cold (5c) greenhouse.
Sending leaves out half-heartedly so I assume winter to late winter-grower:
araucana
splendens
species ex Ashley
phycelloides
Growing away:
advena (some say shoots in September)
Dormant:
rhodolirion (not dormant but dead)
andicola (not dormant but dead)
1 shoot coming slowly but strongly:
pratensis
Seeds sprouted immediately - bagnoldii (said to shoot in Sept.) and ananuca
Seeds didn't sprout so moved to cold room - andicola (Ashley says it may require a cold treatment)
I don't know how reliable my findings are, compare the above with Ashley's notes below:
Notes:
true elwesii - fresh growth in late August/September, almost evergreen according to Ashley
laeta - fresh growth in late August/September, almost evergreen- Ashle;, never sprouted for me here.
montanum - begins to emerge from early/mid-October - Ashley
phycelloiudes - begins to emerge from early/mid-October - Ashley
rhodolirion - begins to emerge from early/mid-October - Ashley
serotina - shoots in September after first watering - Ashley
splendens - shoots in September after first watering - Ashley
species cw - shoots in September after first watering - Ashley
I don't know if this will be at all valuable as the greenhouse is quite cold though it can get warm on sunny windless days from now on.
johnw - 0c, grey
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And these Rhodophiala came from Santiago and germinated last month!cheers fermi
Fermi - These look happy enough and I guess safe to say it is a happy summer-grower. Can you tell us which species it is?
johnw
John,
They are 2 forms of Rhodophiala bifida - in growth in summer because they are newly germinated, I think.
New germinations all sown a few weeks ago:
Puya mirabilis from Kristl,
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Aristea ecklonii from Nicole
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and 3 from Marcus Harvey,
Salvia sclarea
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Salvia pomifera
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and Ebenus creticus
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cheers
fermi
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I wish you luck with the Ebenus, Fermi, - it is a lovely plant and I see from the NARGS site that it had a narrow escape from rodents?!
I once grew a couple of seedlings and one even flowered but the plant really resents our cold wet winters even under glass and they soon died. Your climate should suit it much better!
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Magnar: the list of seedlings in your reply #60
( http://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg230356#msg230356 )
Did they also all germinated at room temperature without a cold treatment?
I would like to encourage everyone to to give specifics on your germination experiences (temperature, duration, surface sowed/at depth,etc.). It's wonderful that we can see what the seedlings look like, but just think of how much more valuable this thread would be with this other information included!
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I love this thread as this is surely where it all starts.
I agree with you Rick that as much information as possible alongside the pictures would be very valuable. Generalisations within the various genera are usually OK, but sometimes the less cultivated species have different requirements, and therefore often lead to failures for the less experienced, and often to resignation. I will try to fulfil your requests when I post on this thread Rick.
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Ashley says it may require a cold treatment
Just don't overdo it, as I did so expertly last winter, and kill them all :-[ :'(
Temperatures in my greenhouse got down to about -5 to -8oC but probably more importantly, stayed low for several weeks. This proved fatal because most of the rhodophialas were in growth with moisture at the roots.
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Magnar: the list of seedlings in your reply #60
( http://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg230356#msg230356 )
Did they also all germinated at room temperature without a cold treatment?
Yes, all these grew in room temperature, no cold treatment was needed.
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I hope that the ones from this tray did'nt germinate already ;D
You've iced these cakes so beautifully Kris. How will you decorate them? Perhaps a job for Erica? ;D
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Fermi, yours have well germinated too this automn ;) Hope, this cold winter weather have not killed them, mini temperature was -3,5 ° in my "half-cold" frame :-[
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Kris - I did a quick run-through the Rhodophialas to check which were dormant and which starting to grow in the cold (5c) greenhouse.
Thank you very much John , very useful information . I come back on this matter later on.
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Fermi, yours have well germinated too this automn ;) Hope, this cold winter weather have not killed them, mini temperature was -3,5 ° in my "half-cold" frame :-[
They've survived here with temperatures down to -7oC at times. But there's plenty more seed on the Aristea if you need replacements ;D
I wish you luck with the Ebenus, Fermi, - it is a lovely plant and I see from the NARGS site that it had a narrow escape from rodents?!
They were stored in the house while we were in the UK last April/May - we arrived home to a house full of mice! - they attacked the packet [and a lot of others] and I doubted that anything left would germinate but at least one has! Now to keep it alive and get it to flower.
cheers
fermi
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The seedlings keep growing:
Allium amabile
Centaurea drabifolia ssp cappadocica
Centaurea odyssei
Edraiainthus tenuifolius
Meconopsis racemosa
Potentilla speciosa
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Pulsatilla albana
Pulsatilla pratensis
Pulsatilla slavica
Voila jooi
Werneria pygmaea
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My Rheum nobile are starting to germinate now!!! Soooooo excited!
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Oh golly Bryan! Mine were sown yesterday. What happens now? How should we go on when germinated? Advice would be welcome please.
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I think you need to pick a god and prey! But after that I expect deep pots with gritty mix? I am planning on trying something like a near by nursery uses for astragalus coccinius. They use a deep pot with rich fertile gritty mix in the bottom for the roots to run in, the taproot is then surrounded by grit and a light gritty mix fills in around that... But then I am only assuming they will have a taproot? Hmm do they have a taproot???
I was really hoping someone would have jumped in with info, but something tells me we are all in the same boat with this amazing plant. I can tell you germination has only taken 4 weeks, but sofar the seeds are just sprouting, I can only tell the have started by moving the grit aside on the pot.
Maybe they will be easy to grow... Maybe our only problem will be transporting them to shows...
B
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Can you post a picture of the new seedlings? I had three germinate a few years back and kept them for 4 years before they all died eventually, but because I think I've ever only seen the plants in fabulous pictures of flowering plants, I have no idea what the leaves of the non-flowering plant should be like. Maybe mine were not the real thing. I remember the leaves were relatively small for a rhubarb and quite glossy.
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Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle Tree) starts to germinate. Seeds were bought on Ebay/Germany. They were sown on 25 October 2011 and began to germinate last week. All this time seeds were in a room where temperatures were between 12 and 16 degrees Celsius.
From the picture you might conclude that I'm messy when it comes to sowing seeds. I am not :P. In this case the seeds pushed themselves out of the sowing medium and because of the taproot it is unwise to push them back into the sowing medium.
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Can you post a picture of the new seedlings? I had three germinate a few years back and kept them for 4 years before they all died eventually, but because I think I've ever only seen the plants in fabulous pictures of flowering plants, I have no idea what the leaves of the non-flowering plant should be like. Maybe mine were not the real thing. I remember the leaves were relatively small for a rhubarb and quite glossy.
Hi Lesley
Here is a pic from last year of what was at this time still supposed to be wild collected rheum nobile. The seedlings were about 2 years old.
I found them really looking like very young rheum alexandrae.
Already a great performance if you could keep them so long last time!
Regards
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Thanks Philippe. Those do look very like what my supposedly R. nobile looked like in their early stages. The later leaves though were rather rounder and less like what I have as alexandrae which has quite distinctive longitudinal (?)veining. So maybe they were, maybe they weren't. This latest lot should be correct though. ;D
Which reminds me that I haven't thanled you for your parcel which arrived on Wednesday, sown Thursday. I will be in touch as you send MUCH more than the cost of an NZAGS subscription.
Yesterday (photo later when there are a few more) I had a Camellia species germinate (2), from quite old seed. They were sown on Jan 20th, so they have been very quick.
Bryan, I do like the thought of taking R. nobile to the shows. I will need to take the back seat from the car to have enough height. ;D
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I got R. nobile from Holubec this year. Planted 6 seeds in a tray 2 weeks ago.
Kept in unheated back room that ranges from 50F day to 30 F night. Brought
the tray into the kitchen on Friday, 75F. This morning I found 4 germinated.
Pic later.
John B
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Well done. Doubt if that would work here, it still being summer (allegedly, it's been a cool, wet one for most people), so in the tunnel with everything else is probably best for now.
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Just a comment---to be followed by pictures soon.
A customer posted on my facebook yesterday that the Paeonia brownii seed he received from me germinated 10 out of 12 so far after only 5 weeks. He treated them to the requisite cold inside plastic bags in the fridge. By the time he noticed, they already had their long, long roots. This is very valuable information, as it cuts down significantly on the normal 3 months cold recommended.
It also prompted me to go out to my unheated greenhouse yesterday (still pretty chilly out there, with night going down to -10C or more on occasion). I gently dug around in the 3 pots of the Paeonia I had sown out there---and sure enough there they were, all germinated a few inches down, keeping warm under the soil and mulch layer, just waiting to emerge once a bit more wamth arrives.
Also already germinated in those cold conditions were multiple pots of Lewisia rediviva & a ton of Aconitums.
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We've had 49mm of rain here, Wed night and Thursday but I'd watered well on Wed evening so didn't let my new seed pots get the rain, covering them instead with thick layers of newspaper to ward off the drips from the tunnel roof. Then because the wind was supposed to blow strongly (it didn't) I put a light tarpaulin over the lot (12 trays) and some empty trays over that to stop the covers blowing away or being dislodged. Went out a few minutes ago with some trepidation to see what was what and after removing the covers found 5 germinations. Primula reidii from GR (sown 22 Jan), P. reidii williamsii from SRGC (20 Jan) old seed of Rh camtschaticum album (20 Jan), Arisaema jacquemontii from Chris Chadwell (20 Jan) and a rare Saxifraga from Otto (22 Jan). All too small for a picture yet. The sax is a slight green mist over the pot and I think every seed has germinated in the night.
I've not previously covered seed so closely so may try the newspapers again for a few nights to see what else happens. The new pots have been put out of their trays into another one, in more light as they are all quite pale green. I love this time of year when new seeds are coming up daily. Better than a drug fix. ;D
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This is my latest technique for Paeonia, Glaucidium, etc (seed with multiple temperature regimes).
I now sow them en masse inside plastic storage containers (in moist vermiculite, of course)
All my Paeonia species this year (except for P. brownii which is a straightforward cold germinator), were sown this way in November or December of 2011.
I am illustrating P. emodi.
Most Paeonia germinate at a long, warm (radicle only).
Then they need cold after which they will send up first leaf.
Germination began about a month or so ago.
Of course there are still many seeds to germinate (and they will continue over many months).
This method allows you to clearly see what is going on with each seed.
You now have two choices (the first rushes the maturation period along considerably).
1. I can now take the individual seeds that have germinated out of this container & put them in another container with moist vermiculite, and place in fridge.
By the time spring is fully here, they can be potted up (will now proceed to first leaf stage in the same first season) and will be large enough to overwinter in the fall/winter.
2. I can pot up the germinated seedlings & keep them actively growing until fall, overwinter them in this stage with first leaf emergence next spring.
Last year a batch of anomala germinated about 90% after sitting in the plastic container in the greenhouse all summer. In September/October I lined them up in a flat, kept them in the unheated greenhouse over winter, and they are now just coming out of dormancy.
Also I now also germinate Glaucidium in the same manner. The seeds shown in the pictures were soaked overnight in GA-3, and mixed with the moist vermiculite about 2 weeks ago. Kept under lights, nice and warm. Today I noticed germination beginning.
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A few more seedling pics:
Aconitum anthora
Androsace spinulifera
Androsace yargonensis ssp stenophylla
Anemone decapetala
Anemone multifida
Aquilegia canadensis
Arenaria capillaris
Aster alpinus dolomiticus
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Astragalus shortianus
Calceolaria cavanillesii
Centaurea bagadensis
Cremanthodium discoideum
Dianthus myrtinervius
Dianthus pinifolius
Epilobium crassifolium
Erigeron auranticus
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Here are some germinating now but also including some which germinated several months ago but were too small to photograph. Starting with Rheum nobile. Looking forward to first true leaves. 10 up as of today :) The pot to the right is Carpentaria californica Ladhams's variety, from Michael C.
Eritrichium rupestre v. pectinatum from SRGC
Gypsophila aretioides (not) from SRGC and
Gypsophila aretioides (maybe) from AGS
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Primula maximowiczii from AGS
Saussurea ?gnaphalodes from Chris Chadwell - This looks amazing in Google pics
Pinguicula grandiflora germinated well on grit. It has done too on spaghnum but these show up better
Asteranthera ovata. My own seed, what was left of the rubbish after I sieved out all the seed. 18, so very pleased with those. There are more pods forming from a pre-Christmas flowering and it's also flowering again now.
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Rhododendron camtschaticum album from old seed. You see why it's no use photographing these as they germinate. There are 18 in this pot ???
Rhodo pachysanthum, has been germinating for around 6 months, still a few new ones after solid rain recently, 19 altogether so far
Rhododendrom thymifolium including 5 new ones this week
Arcterica nana
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And some Australians sown a long time ago and germinating from Sept 2011, very slow to grow on mostly.
Patersonia fragilis, an irid
Blandfordia punicea
Richea scoparia. The larger one at the lower left I think germinated the previous year but I didn't notice it. The last picture is of the same plant germinated in 2008 or 9 but again I didn't notice it as it was among some ungerminated Trillium pots I'd given up on and had become overgrown wth grass. Just found it when doing a cleanup a couple of months back. I think it will be a very nice little shrub/tree for a pot. It is closely related to NZ Dracophyllums. In this pot just the one germinated.
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Lesley, how do you manage to germinate Blandfordia punicea in such numbers?, I only ever got one seed to germinate and then I lost it. Maybe the seed I get isn't viable at sowing time. 15 years, one seedling :-[
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Lesley! Gorgeous seedlings! I was particularly surprised Asteranthera ovata. I tried it a few years to sow, but was never shoots. Are there any particular crop? I ordered seeds in Chile. Perhaps they are very old.
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Some of my germinating now:
Gilia caespitosa
Dionysia aretoides
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Yet..
Jankaea heldreichii
Ramonda myconi 'Alba'
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Yet..
Corallodiscus kingianus
Polystichum imbricans
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Michael, my seed was from Marcus Harvey in Australia (Tasmania) and I guess was reasonably fresh when he offered it, same with the Richea and Patersonia. A couple of other things haven't germinated though, Isophysis and something. I think I need to get the Blandfordia potted up now or perhaps wait until spring. To be truthful I'm a bit scared of disturbing them. ??? Marcus' email if you want to try his seed is hillview400@hotmail.com
Hochu, I had some seed last year on the Asteranthera and have some more pods from the pre-Christmas flowering and am pollinating each flower on the present batch. When some is ripe I'll be very happy to send it to you. It germinated for me quite quickly, about a month I think. Send me your postal address in a private email.
I have often found that seed going from one side of the world to the other takes a different time to germinate. It may be that the seasons being different, germination takes place differently. For instance, crocuses take 3-6 months here, fresh from my own seed, but if someone in say, the UK sends me fresh crocus seed it may take 18 months. I mention this because if I say the Asteranthera takes only a month and then it takes much longer if sent away, that may be the reason. Let's face it, seed is funny stuff and each kind has a mind of its own, it seems to me.
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Lesley, did you say that Richea usually needs 2 years to germinate from seed?
BTW, you don't need germination in your pots - the sand/granules are beautiful!
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Lesley, did you say that Richea usually needs 2 years to germinate from seed?
BTW, you don't need germination in your pots - the sand/granules are beautiful!
I don't know if Richea NEEDS two years Trond. I suspect for the first one when only the single plant germinated, it got too dry for too long and then was totally neglected. It was a miracle that I found the single plant and well grown at that. The second lot could have taken a lot less time because the seedlings when brand new are so tiny and I may not have noticed them for a long time. I went through a period of about 18 months when I spent little time with my plants through other commitments, and lost a lot of things as a result. The whole place became overgrown mostly with grasses and I'm only now beginning to get some control back.
The first one may well have been one of many more and all but the one died, I just don't know. I must admit to being amazed at the number of little ones in the more recent pot. Obviously they WANT to germinate. The seed looks so dusty and unseedlike, somewhat like Eucalyptus species and heaven knows they germinate well. I have seedlings in every other pot of seed from the tall trees we have growing here.
I buy the sand as horticultural sand from a local supplier and there is about 70% dusty sand in it which I laboriously sieve out and add to the potting mix as I think it is quite full of nutrients. Then I use the bigger bits for seed cover.
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Meconopsis punicea seed germinating. The original seed came from Norway in 2008
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Meconopsis punicea seed germinating. The original seed came from Norway in 2008
Tony - 3+ years to germinate?
Our Lingholm seed sown late last summer came up several weeks ago but no signs of your punicea seed from a sowing in June. Is it later than Lingholm or might they take another few years?
johnw
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Meconopsis punicea seed germinating. The original seed came from Norway in 2008
Tony - 3+ years to germinate?
Our Lingholm seed sown late last summer came up several weeks ago but no signs of your punicea seed from a sowing in June. Is it later than Lingholm or might they take another few years?
johnw
John the problems of a common language. No these were sown last summer,from plants which I grew from seed I received in 2008!!
I had a good number germinate in the autumn just three months from sowing.
Have you brought them into the warm? This spurs on germination
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John the problems of a common language. No these were sown last summer,from plants which I grew from seed I received in 2008!!
I had a good number germinate in the autumn just three months from sowing.
Have you brought them into the warm? This spurs on germination
Silly me. The punicea pots are at about 10c where the Lingholm seed sprouted. I will try moving them into warmth and move back to the cool when they sprout.
Thanks
johnw
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Germinating now:
Angelica gigas (fresh seed from the UK)
Cytisus battandieri (why do I keep sowing things that are not hardy and probably die their first winter?)
Nomocharis aperta (From China via Norway to the Netherlands: these seeds are real globetrotters!)
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I have some cuttings in of the Cytisus. They've lost their leaves but the stems are stil silky green and quite turgid. I'm hopeful, if I can keep them green thru' the winter.
I would have expected the seedlings of Ang. gigas, especially at the true leaf stage, to be dark red?
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Lesley, thank you very much for agreeing to share the seeds Asteranthera. I told my address in a private email.
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Seeds sown and left outside during January, experiencing the 2 weeks cold wave early february.
Gentiana nubigena and G.altorum are just beginning with finding their ways to the light right now.
All seeds from M.Pavelka
I hope we won't have too warm weather for some of them and their followers during April, as the return to the more fresh air of the alpine garden, included me, is only in 6 weeks.
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Lesley, thank you very much for agreeing to share the seeds Asteranthera. I told my address in a private email.
Yes Alex, I have noted your address and will send the seeds in due course. It may still be a couple of months. I'll report progress from time to time. :) I have a dozen pods so far, some well formed and some from the newer flowers just beginning to swell but they take a really long time to ripen.
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Germinating now:
Cytisus battandieri (why do I keep sowing things that are not hardy and probably die their first winter?)
Because you can get seedlings that survived minus 15 degree Celsius. My Cytisus battandieri have survived now 6 winters. Every winter we have minus 15 degree. The plant "lost" the foliage, but recovered. Flowers every year with me.
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Germinating now:
Cytisus battandieri (why do I keep sowing things that are not hardy and probably die their first winter?)
Because you can get seedlings that survived minus 15 degree Celsius. My Cytisus battandieri have survived now 6 winters. Every winter we have minus 15 degree. The plant "lost" the foliage, but recovered. Flowers every year with me.
Good for you, Uli.... worth some difficulties to get that wonderful fragrance from the flowers. :)
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I have collected seeds of a Clematis species with large flowers(18-22cm) from China and one part treated with GA3.
After 3 months the first seeds germinated which were treated with GA3. Now after 2 months no seeds which were not treated no germinating.
I have sometimes good results with GA3.
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1076/cllanuginosaga32634resi.jpg)
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That is a very telling difference Hannink. You can't possibly say it's down to co-incidence or anything except the difference in treatment. A lesson surely, for plants which are sometimes very slow or difficult to germinate.
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Germinating now:
Cytisus battandieri (why do I keep sowing things that are not hardy and probably die their first winter?)
Because you can get seedlings that survived minus 15 degree Celsius. My Cytisus battandieri have survived now 6 winters. Every winter we have minus 15 degree. The plant "lost" the foliage, but recovered. Flowers every year with me.
Good to know! I just was a little bit pessimistic because that "horror frost" in early february (down to minus 20 where I live) killed some precious seedlings that germinated last year (Davidia, Cercidiphyllum, Prunus serratula amongst others). Luckily the Lindera obtusiloba, Sassafras albidum, Magnolia officinalis biloba and Chionanthus retusus survived the cold. Seedlings were in a polytunnel and covered with double fleece.
I would have expected the seedlings of Ang. gigas, especially at the true leaf stage, to be dark red?
This is the first time I grow Angelica gigas from seed. It is difficult to get FRESH seed from this plant. I had a plant of this species in my garden many years ago. What I remember is that the leaves were green but the stems were reddish. Don't know for sure if my memory is correct though.
From the germination front this week:
Lilium duchartrei from China via Norway
Acer pseudosieboldianum from Gardens North
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You're probably right GP, re the colouring of the Angelica. It's a few years since I grew it from seed and the memory ain't what it used to be. :'(
Here are a few, a couple of which have already been posted but there is some further development worth noting.
Rheum nobile, now beginning to get true leaves and I think should be potted up now before the roots get too long. A total of 12 good seedlings but there seems to be a sort of squashed one still coming.
Saussurea ?gnaphalodes also with the beginnings of true leaves, very white and felty. I think it's time to pot those too even though they're very small.
Cosmos atrosanguineus
Arisaema CC 7142
Geranium farreri, 3 precious seeds from Canada. As Helen asked, why is it so difficult to get this species nowadays? It used to be reasonably freely available.
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Geranium farreri, 3 precious seeds from Canada. As Helen asked, why is it so difficult to get this species nowadays? It used to be reasonable freely available.
I bought seeds of it from Hokonui in 07, don't they list it anymore? They grew it as G. napuligerum.
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I posted the wrong (previous) picture of the Saussurea. Here's the one from this morning, complete with felty leaves. (When I looked at what I'd posted, I wondered if something had nibbled out the new leaves between my taking the picture and posting it here! ::))
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Hokonui don't list it at present, either as seed or as plants or under either name. I may have still had it here in 07 and so didn't order/notice it then but it is certainly not around much now.
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These started to germinate the day before yesterday. Any thoughts anyone? Apart from the obvious one of course. I've emailed a note to CC to see what he thinks. The speed with which they've germinated suggests something like an Astragalus or something related. The seeds themselves didn't make me doubt their ID. There were so many seeds I sowed 3 100mm pots!
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Lesley,
If only they were Colchicum luteum. You could have a goldmine there, selling them in the future. ;D
It will be fascinating to see what they end up being, particularly if they are something new and unusual that you don't already grow (but would like to!!). Good luck.
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Paul I had visions of large lawn closely dotted with yellow colchicums. ;D
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Lesley,
Hmmm.... I don't think you should be posting in the "small glass" topic then. Obviously MUCH more than a small glass. :-*
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We all know the "never throw old seed pots away" saying.
Today I noticed a pot that was due for disposal, when I have time to sort through them, and noticed 2 familiar seed leaves. Trillium nivale, date sown June 2007. Trillium seed leaves I am familiar with but rarely T. nivale. Now I know why.
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We all know the "never throw old seed pots away" saying.
Today I noticed a pot that was due for disposal, when I have time to sort through them, and noticed 2 familiar seed leaves. Trillium nivale, date sown June 2007. Trillium seed leaves I am familiar with but rarely T. nivale. Now I know why.
Brian, what a triumph! Congratulations, both on the new seedlings and on spotting them in the nick of time.
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As usual, I have multiple flats of Jeffersonia dubia germinating thickly. I use decomposed pine bark mulch as seed cover, the flats left out to weather all winter. They germinate so profusely that germination tends to lift the whole bark mulch "crust" up; I try to gingerly tamp it back down and poke to break the crust up, I should probably use something else for seed cover. When I jest that I want to replace parts of my lawn with Jeffersonia, I do so with a degree of seriousness, I want a Jeffersonian lawn :D
Two years ago after posting photos of my seed harvest and sowing of Jeffersonia diphylla (here on SRGC), I received feedback that I harvested seed too early which lessens viability of the seed, eg. harvested before peak viability. Last summer I harvested seed as I do normally, just before pods split wide open, when the "lid" on the pipe-shaped pod will easily "pop" with the slightest squeeze, or the lid seam visibly starting to separate. Because pods ripen and pop open so fast, a half day delay can be too late and all seeds spills out (when that happens, I've been known to rout around the base of mother Jeffersonia hand picking seeds found among the leaf litter ::) ). Seed is sown immediately in flats, covered thinly with soil and then a layer of pine barch mulch, kept cool and shaded and just moist through summer, left out all winter. Flats are covered with wire cloth to keep chipmunks and squirrels from digging and eating the seed. As with easy-germinator J. dubia, my 3 flats of J. diphylla are coming up so thickly as to raise the bark mulch "crust". Below is a photo of both species; a bit hard to see with J. diphylla, the seedlings are smaller and come up a little bit later than J. dubia, and are an earthy camouflage beige color.
Jeffersonia dubia germination:
[attachthumb=1]
Jeffersonia diphylla germination:
[attachthumb=2]
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A few weeks ago we had a sudden heat wave here, like so much of eastern North America---with temperatures rising to 25C and higher and pushing all the overwintered plants in the unheated greenhouse into active growth and into bud.
Murphy's Law deems that these summer-in-winter temperatures will almost always be followed (as they were) by a period of serious cold. For two nights after the heat, -17C and colder were predicted --- and I was concerned with all the soft growth on the plants in the greenhouse. So Henry and I improved with flannel sheets, blankets, curtains, and just about everything else I could rustle up---what a sight for the next while, as I left the coverings intact.
It was in fact only today that all the coverings finally came back off (+5C during the day, -8C tonight). What was fascinating is how steamy it actually was underneath the coverings during the cold period, even with the space so chilly you could see your breath. In fact, all sorts of interesting things happened during that time --- for instance, the Diapensia lapponica that I had been nursing since Newfoundland last year suddenly had not only greened-up, but had produced two flower buds under the flannel sheets. From Newfoundland as well, the Silene acaulis & Saxifraga oppositifolia came alive, Thalictrum alpinum and Anemone parviflora emerged and Dryas intermedia, which I thought had totally died, returned.
Most excited as well to see the Newfoundland clones of Primula egaliksensis, P. laurentiana and the white form of P. mistassinica up.
When lifting the blanket off the Primula section, I was surprised to see a bunch of silver and gold laced primula I had grown last year flowering, as well as a few other interesting "victorian" clones from last year.
I am not sure what was the most exciting---but it is probably a toss up between the Diapensia and what I found last under a stretchy cotton sheet---grown from Janis Ruksans seed many, many years ago---the pot brought from Ontario---my first flowering of Corydalis ornata!!!! Yippee.
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It is in the unheated greenhouse that I also kept all of my cold germinators this winter. I had some early problems with rodents scrounging around the pots (as is always the case), but after setting up the traps/poisons, that ceased being a problem.
Germination has been excellent in this environment---the real issue always being what will I do with all the seedlings....
Lewisia is always easy after a brief cold---L. rediviva will stay in the pots for a while (to deal with the summer dormancy issues that also affect seedlings), as well as the numerous Dodecatheons that are up.
Dactylicapnos macrocapnos and torulosa will go into the garden this year. Not sure yet about the various Corydalis (heterophylla shown here).
I think every one of (my own seed) Erythronium albidum (wild collected by Graham in Ontario last season) germinated.
Ditto on my wild seed of Paeonia brownii (3 pots worth).
And an experiment with seed that has still been moist-packed and in its original zip lock bags since 2010 (kept at warm---but needing cold)---great germination of a number of species includeing Anemonopsis macrophylla, Viola pubescens and Anemone nemorosa.
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And because I am always improvising with large, deep flats for mass sowing---these pink "berry collecting" bins were put to use for the left-over native species---Trilliums, Asarum canadense and Hepatica.
Germination has now started in all the flats in a rather intense way---and these thousands of seedlings will be my challenge this season.
The close up of the Asarum is typical of what I see in all the flats; with seedlings jostling for space; everything on top of each other. I will show you more as the days progress and I figure out how to best deal with the happy problem.
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With me the germination also continues:
Acer palmatum ex Seiryu (from Ebay/UK)
Acer palmatum ex Sumi nagashi (from "Don't let me in your garden when the seed is ripe" :-X :-X :-X [OK, I asked if I could pick some seeds])
Echinacea tennesseensis (from Gardens North)
Fagus sylvatica (special to me because this seed is from a very tall 'hedge' that was planted by my grandfather or even great grandfather probably somewhere in the early 1920s. My father, born in 1933, has known this hedge all his life)
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Fagus sylvatica in its green and dark red forms is my most favourite tree of all time. I love the way the dark ones start pink then darken to black almost overnight and I love the way the greens go rich tan in the autumn. It is a beautifully shaped tree too. There's a golden one in a garden near me too. Not the commercial gold form which has a different shape but the "ordinary" one, but gold-leaved.
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I watched a large Copper Beech being "reduced" in size a few weeks back. The red colour is present in the cross sections of all the wood. For 6 or 7mm or so from the outside edge (on the trunk) there is a red ring when you cut across. Even on quite small sections it is visible. Not as showy as Laburnum so you could not use is as veneer oysters, but quite pleasing.
My favorite Beech is when the normal forms new leaves reach that wonderful glossy golden green in late spring. The bluebells are just starting in the Beech woods here at present, together with last years Beech mast germinating.
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In reply 126 a month ago, I showed what wasn't Colchicum luteum. Here they are now, and I'm wondering if they may be one of the balsams, an Impatiens species. Any suggestions though would be welcome. Chris Chadwell thinks two lots of seed, these and the colchicum have accidentally been put in the same packet and this could be right as about 50 of these are up, in 3 pots while I sowed hundreds of seeds.
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Also from Chris Chadwell, Codonopsis lanceolata. A number of his others have come through well too, especially Lilium nepalense and Kirengeshoma palmata. :)
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Helen's 3 Geranium farreri are due for potting on now and I would like a suggestion as to what the next might be. It was to be a Camellia but there are teeth at the base of the newer leaves.
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Germinating now:
Colchicum corsicum
Colchicum parnassicum
Colchicum speciosum album
Colchicum vernum
Crocus scharojanii
Crocus vallicola
Poul
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And some more.
Eranthis pinnatifida
Narcissus asturiensis
Muscari adilii
Ranunculus bullatus
Tulipa sprengeri
Trillium sessile
Poul
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Poul lovely stuff germinating.Can i ask where you managed to get Muscari adili seed from?
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Poul lovely stuff germinating.Can i ask where you managed to get Muscari adili seed from?
Hi Davey,
Yes, I am quite satisfied with the germinating rate this year, even Colchicums germinate quite well. The Muscari adilii seeds are harvested from my own bulb.
Poul
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Some more germination news:
-- Hovenia dulcis (Japanese raisin tree). I have tried to germinate this species before but to no avail. This seed has a very tough seed coat and sand papering is almost impossible. You can soften the seed coat with sulphuric acid but that is not my kind of gardening and I don't think you can buy it in a Dutch store. I have given my seed a hot water treatment followed by two months of cold (5 degrees C.) This seemed to do the trick, at least for some seeds.
-- Enkianthus campanulatus
-- Rhododendron luteum. Has anybody any idea who long it takes before R. luteum starts to flower from seed?
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Referring back to Reply 126 and 139, I am delighted to note that among the whatevertheyare, there is a Colchicum seedling, arrived yesterday. Hopefully many more over coming weeks/months.
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Playing about here trying to get smaller pics but larger text. Not quite there yet.
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Poul:
Wonderful to see the Colchicum seedlings.
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I have said on several occassions that I don't allow my plants to set seed as I like to tidy my plants after flowering, but there has been the odd occassion when I have left some to set seed and here are three results.
Trillium chloropetalum giganteum - sown fresh in the summer of 2010. Seedlings only surfaced this year.
Trillium erectum sown fresh in the summer of 2010. Seedlings only surfaced this year.
Lilium oxypetalum insigne - sown fresh in the summer of 2011.
Some T. c. giganteum seed pods must have been missed from time to time as I have been weeding seedlings like these out of the garden for years not knowing what they were :-\ my garden is far too tidy ;)
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Different species of Magnolia germinated in the last month:
Magnolia hypoleuca (obovata)
Magnolia macrophylla
Magnolia sieboldii
Magnolia tripetala
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gosh..i tried magnolia seed myself this year..but crazily a tender one called garretii..they have all germinated so what to do with them now???growing fairly quickly aswell...
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gosh..i tried magnolia seed myself this year..but crazily a tender one called garretii..they have all germinated so what to do with them now???growing fairly quickly aswell...
That could be a bit tricky - funny how it's never the ones you really need to grow that do..... :-\
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gosh..i tried magnolia seed myself this year..but crazily a tender one called garretii..they have all germinated so what to do with them now???growing fairly quickly aswell...
Start a little nursery? ;D
Going back to Reply No 147, All the dicot seedlings have gone, frosted off and I think in the finish they were an Impatiens species, obviously tender because we've only have three or four frosts here so far and only light. The single colchicum seedling has turned out to be a cabbage tree (Cordyline australis) so hopefully the coming spring will bring on the colchicums.
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Erigeron aureus from AGS Seed Ex (11/12-2806) sown 19/04/12. Didn't expect it to make this kind of growth so early. It's a lovely little seedling with lots of downy hairs.
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I'd be a bit wary it might be another composite which can be a bit of a hooligan David - Pilosella aurantiaca ('Fox & Cubs').
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I agree... looks a bit off - somewhat overly furry for Erigeron aureus, with unusually long petioles. Here's one from the garden, and one from the wild, for comparison:
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Many thanks Lori and Darren, I'll keep an eye on it and report back at some stage
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I can think of one or two Forumists who could have a use for those downy hairs though. ;D
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Some recent new germinations:
Bellevalia paradoxa SRGC 2012
Silene regia Kristal Walek, Gardens North
Moraea.ramosissima, Being plants, 06/2012
Pulsatilla albana SRGC 2012
Rhodophiala montana , Being plants, 06/2012
cheers
fermi
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and a few more
Tulipa regelii JJA 2011 ;D
Hesperantha vaginata NZAGS 2011
Geissorhiza inflexa " "
Calochortus clavatus ssp.... Marcus Harvey 2011
cheers
fermi
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I have tried seed of different clematis before but without success. I was very pleased when I noticed this seedling a few weeks ago.
Clematis texensis dwarf form from AGS seed, sown in January 2011
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Clematis seeds have given me some real frustrations Roma. My own seed, such as last year's C. napaulensis started to germinate about 3 months after it was sown but other species, especially the dwarf form of fusca have taken 2 years unless sown very fresh. And seed of several choice species sent to me from Helen in Canada, sown at least 3 years ago I think (stupidly didn't date the labels) are only now sending up an occasional seedling. One came up over a year ago and I've had 5 from 3 other species, in the last month.
Other years I've sown what seemed good seed of orientalis (vernayi) L and S 13342 and had not a thing come through. Last winter I sowed yet another potful and have had great germination, ready now to pot up. There seems no rhyme or reason except that I'm sure fresh as possibe is important. I've had nothing from seedlist columbiana tenuifolia, several different batches but Krystal Walek's columbiana has proved much better.
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This week I checked upon my baggie sown seeds of Daphne tangutica that were kindly donated to me by forum member Mike Ireland. To my surprise I found one seed that had germinated and some that seem ready to do the same. The seeds were sown a month ago and stored in a zip lock bag at room temperature (18-21 degrees Celsius).
The question is whether the seed that has started to put a root out now need a cold period or not. My experience with Daphne mezereum suggests that it does but I have found precious little trustworthy information on the germination pattern of Daphne tangutica on the internet. D.M. Jockel's informative Daphne website (http://www.seidelbast.net/home.html (http://www.seidelbast.net/home.html) ) says Daphne tangutica falls into the category of Daphnes that need stratification before proper germination. More information on this subject is welcome.
To be continued.
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Here's two South African.
Massonia Vleesbaai ex. Hammer,ex Roy Herold. From a PBS BX distribution.
Lachenalia comptonii. A hairy leafed sweetly scented one.
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Do you possibly remember this? Here it is this morning, quite unexpected as the seed was damaged before sowing. I didn't think anything would come of it. It was picked up from the ground at last year's Trillium Weekend in Timaru. It may be a Davidia in which case it can be planted on my grave.
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Iris palaestina - seed collected in 2011 - sown 09/2012 and germinating now.
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Eritrichium canum from AGS Seed 11/12 2582 sown 16 October 2012, and ready for potting on if it ever gets dry enough outside for me to do anything!
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They look good David but don't let them get too soft. Maybe put them out in the daytime?
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................................... Maybe put them out in the daytime?
Daytime? I seem to remember that!
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Nice seedlings Hans. One of mine is flowering now, quite a good news as I thought they all died after february frost ! so it's quite hardy :-)
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Hello, I was out clearing the snow again today and accidentaly disturbed these seed pots Pulsatilla vernalis and Meconopsis punicea I have put under cover now, cheers Ian the Christie Kind
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Members may be interested in this thread in the NARGS Forum "Seed Starting Chronicles"
for more "baby photos" ! http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=1251.0 (http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=1251.0)
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Two pictures for this topic ( though I have little to contribute...):
Tropaeolum Speciosum
Zephyra Elegans
JP
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Meconopsis punicea
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Hi,
Here are Tropaeolum SESSILIFOLIUM seedlings
JP
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Seedlings from SRGC seed ex. 2011-2012:
Narcissus triandrus triandrus
Crocus gilanicus
From SRGC seed ex. 2012-2013:
Cosmos astrosanguineus
Poul
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More seedlings from various sources:
Trillium sessile
Narcissus watieri
Crocus vallicola
Crocus scharojanii
The last one is a pot of Crocus scharojanii placed in the "natural environment" hoping that would give good results.
Poul
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I just stacked my seedex pots in 2 veg.fruit trays this year, and left them in the garden. Quite surprised today to see many green leaves on a pot of Adenophora triphylla from AGS seed. Guess I will have to check them more regularly from now on, especially if we get some warmish rain next week. Spring at last; I hope.
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Some seedlings that were started under lights over the winter:
Campanula choruhensis, sown 12/23/12, transplanted into 5" deep bands:
[attachthumb = 1]
Edraianthus serpyllifolius major, sown 1/8/13, transplanted into 5" deep bands:
[attachthumb = 2]
Edraianthus graminifolius, sown 1/10/13, transplanted into 5" deep bands:
[attachthumb = 3]
Anthyllis montana, sown 1/19/13, transplanted into 5.5" deep bands:
[attachthumb = 4]
Jeffersonia dubia (seeds from Mark McDonough), Sternbergia lutea, Dodecatheon hendersonii:
[attachthumb = 5]
They love the deep bands. The roots are already crowding out the bottom.
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Some more:
Lilium henryi citrinum, L. callosum, L. rosthorni, all sown 11/2012, transplanted to 2.6 liter pots:
[attachthumb = 1]
Gentianopsis crinita, sown 11/14/12, transplanted into 5" deep bands:
[attach=2]
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Some great results there, Gene, from your pots under lights.
As well as being instructive about how various seedlings appear, I do hope this thread is generating enthusiasm amongst those who have yet to try raising plants from seed.
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Slowly but surely the seeds begin to germinate as spring finally begins.
Some of the frontrunners from this past week: Sorbus alnifolia, Acer palmatum ex Osakazuki, Lilium martagon and Ranzania japonica.
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Two lilies sown in November 2011, germinated in February this year
Lilium ledebourii
Lilium monadelphum
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Another two from my own seed this time
Trillium rivale
Erythronium japonicum
I had two Erythronium japonicum but only one flowered in 2011. I took it to show off at our local group meeting and asked Ian Young if he would take it home to introduce it to his Erythronium japonicums. It came home pregnant and produced 18 seeds. Poor Ian did not get any seeds that year ;D
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Todays photo of some grass ;D Scoliopus hallii, lots of seed from last year.
If I have done this right!
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Some people think that woody plants are difficult from seed. They are usually not: you just have to be patient!
More from this week:
Acer palmatum ex Ao Shidare Germination April 2013
Aronia melanocarpa Germination April 2013
Brousonettia papyrifera Germination April 2013
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The Aronia will eventually form a big, vigorous clump. The fruits are not sweet, but they are extremely nutritious. I freeze them without any processing at all, and use them in pancakes and pastries.
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Yes I know. I will plant some out in the wilder part of the garden. I'm curious to know when it will fruit for the first time.
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A reminder that there are pages of seed starting chronicles on the NARGS forum too: 8)
http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=1251.msg22904#msg22904 (http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=1251.msg22904#msg22904)
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Some people think that woody plants are difficult from seed. They are usually not: you just have to be patient!
More from this week:
Acer palmatum ex Ao Shidare Germination April 2013
Aronia melanocarpa Germination April 2013
Brousonettia papyrifera Germination April 2013
Hi
I havent tried Acers from seed yet will definately consider it for next year - bit of a long haul though until they can be planted out?
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Most can be planted in the garden after 3 or 4 years depending on size and vigour.
The problem with Acer palmatum is buying good seed. Two problems in this respect: is the seed viable and is it of the cultivar described. Needless to say I've been fooled in the past.
The seed of Acer p. Bloodgood came from Garden's North (Kristl Walek) and was of excellent quality with good germination. The seeds of "Ao Shidare" was bought on Ebay (UK) and was also good. I've also bought seed from Acer p. Atropurpureum in January 2012 but from the 14 seeds only 1 germinated sofar.
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After the long winter the seeds germinate like mad and I fear,that that my
spare time doesn't allow me to give the seedlings all the care they need.
Saxifraga grisebachii germinated 1 year ago and needs urgently pricking out.
Lewisia rediviva
Podophyllum emodii
Sax.grisebachii
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No photo, but I noticed that Clintonia udensis from Hailuogou (seeds from Arisaema) is germinating :). It was sown in December 2011.
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We continue with Paeonia obovata alba, Polygonatum anomalum and Sassafras albidum. Hopefully more Sassafras on the way. This one germinated in a zip lock bag at warmth (20 degrees C.) I also have a container with Sassafras albidum outside but as yet no germination there.
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Here are some of my seedlings, and more will come :) The succulents and mesembs germinated straight forward in room temperature. The Allium alvarense germinated after a few weeks in the fridge. Aloe polyphylla germinated in the dark after a few weeks at app. 15C. The aloe seeds that didn't germinate, I now have in cup of water and crossing fingers :-) I sow all my seeds on coffee-filters in zip-log bags. If that fails, I sow them in my own medium of cat litter (non clumping), sand and peat.
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The A. looseri germinated at a cool temperature of 7-8C. A. spiniflorus had poor germination, maybe they need stratification since only one germinated at room temperature? The hardy cacti that refuse to germinate after a few weeks, i nick with nail clipper. B. cabulica germinated in fridge, the same with C.acaulis. D. aurea germinated at roomtemperature in the dark. All are sown in zip-locks. If you see something you like, I'm open to swap :)
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Here's a young Tropaeolum INCISUM seedling
JP
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The story continues on the germination front. I was most excited this past week when I saw that some seeds of Franklinia alatamaha had germinated :D
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A few more....
The H. parviflora germinated rapidly at room-temperature. The K. alticola, there was a small percentage that germinated right away, the rest refuse to do so, maybe some chilling or nicking will do the trick? The O. arvensis, O. simplicissimum and Q. chilense germinated at cool temperatures...
I sow all my seeds in coffee filters and zip-locks with a tint of anti fungi liquid, because I feel I have more control over the germination. I've found out that this usually don't work at ephemeral species, where mushy seeds are the result. Perhaps it is to airtight? Or that the ephemeral species don't have a hard protective seedcoat?
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Wonderful images, everyone!
Oh how much more educational this would all be if growers would share their germination regimes ....
(This my plea each year. Unfortunately, it will probably be ignored once again.... :( )
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Wonderful images, everyone!
Oh how much more educational this would all be if growers would share their germination regimes ....
(This my plea each year. Unfortunately, it will probably be ignored once again.... :( )
I have now started sowing my fritillaria and lilies in pure cat litter (Sophisticat Pink). I use clay pots which are plunged in a sand bed. Just a top dressing of grit on the pots.
Fritillaria unibracteata just germinating from a January 2012 sowing
Fritillaria crassifolia from an August 2010 sowing germinated spring 2011
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Mmm. That seems to work very well. I will look at the cat litter we have here and give it a go. I must make potting on much easier?
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Thank you, Tony ...
And these were placed outside after sowing?
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Thank you, Tony ...
And these were placed outside after sowing?
No under the unheated greenhouse bench and brought up on top when signs of germination were seen
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Wonderful images, everyone!
Oh how much more educational this would all be if growers would share their germination regimes ....
(This my plea each year. Unfortunately, it will probably be ignored once again.... :( )
Thanks for the heads up Rick :) I have now written some words about the germination in my recent posts...
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Oh how much more educational this would all be if growers would share their germination regimes ....
(This my plea each year. Unfortunately, it will probably be ignored once again.... :( )
For what it is worth Ric my seed sowing sowing regime is pretty simple. Bulbous plants are sown in 9cm square plastic pots, in gritty-sandy loam based compost (UK JI No. 2), covered with a layer of grit and kept in an outdoor frame open to all the weather thrown at it. On germination they are taken into the greenhouse (if there is room) or covered shelving outside. Non bulbous, same regime but sown in 7cm square plastic pots in a gritty-sandy proprietary seed compost.
Some I win, some I loose! ;D
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Hello
Wonderful succes for many poeple !
Somes of mine
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7QOQc0KXXpo/UX7FzSR6L8I/AAAAAAAAAYY/6A9toqdrG7o/s712/IMGP2301b.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FyQ8Z1PZUL0/UX7FzFP_PjI/AAAAAAAAAYM/bvQMlIlOnG8/s712/IMGP2302b.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6-WqR-5LRUs/UX7FzK5OHaI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/B5XRdzDwBHM/s712/IMGP2304b.jpg)
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Excelsior, thanks so much! The added info really aids in my understanding. That you note when only a very few germinate, possibly indicating the regime is not the norm, is also very helpful.
So the Allium schoenprasum arlvarense germinated in the fridge or at room temperature after 3 weeks in the fridge?
Same question with Aloe polyphylla: germinated at 15C or at room temperature after 3 weeks at 15C?
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Excelsior, thanks so much! The added info really aids in my understanding. That you note when only a very few germinate, possibly indicating the regime is not the norm, is also very helpful.
So the Allium schoenprasum arlvarense germinated in the fridge or at room temperature after 3 weeks in the fridge?
Same question with Aloe polyphylla: germinated at 15C or at room temperature after 3 weeks at 15C?
The Allium schoenoprasum alvarense germinated in the fridge, at 5-6C and the Aloe polyphylla germinated at app. 15C with a bit cooler nights. I had them in my bedroom, where the window are open at night, so they get the fluctuating temperetures. Aloe polyphylla "won't" germinate at higher temperatures according to different websites.
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A kind SRGC forumist sent me fresh seed of Daphne tangutica last year. I divided the seeds in different batches. The ones that were kept in the fridge at 5 degrees C. and put at warmth a couple of weeks ago are starting to germinate.
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Mimulus lewisi, sown 2/27/13, grown under fluorescents at roughly 60F:
[attachthumb = 1]
Seed to bloom in 2.5 months!
These are perennial in the NW USA for 2-5 years if the soil is kept moist and cool. They are native to wet places in the mountains above 5000 feet.
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Very impressive Gene 8)
Here's M. lewisii across the border, in Mt Revelstoke NP.
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Yes, it always grows in places where you can easily get a shoe full of icy water.
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New germination of 2013 season
Around 60 pots germinated.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_42JGlYynQk/UYs_hXHwcAI/AAAAAAAAAeI/3V_o6UBVD7I/s720/IMGP2581b.jpg)
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This week the seeds of Daphne tangutica that were placed outside after sowing in autumn 2012 started to germinated. The germination rate was much better than those that were given the artificial refrigerator treatment (see post 211 of this thread). My tentative guess is that the natural oscillating temperatures of winter leads to a better germination rate.
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Mistletoe (Viscum album) from seed! Thanks Paul ;) I got the berries from Paul (pehe) earlier this spring and squeezed the seed out and onto the stem of several trees (rowan and lime). A lot of them germinated now in May but the common climbing yellow garden snail (Cepaea hortensis) has found several and eaten them. Some have survived - cross fingers!
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Nice to see Trond!
I hope some of them survive the snail attack. I have not observed snails eating mine, but maybe I just have been lucky.
Poul
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Viola cotyledon.
Seed arrived early April. 24 hour soak in 500ppm GA3, followed by 4 weeks in damp filter paper in a fridge, inspected weekly. First few seeds showed roots after 4 weeks (early May) and were potted up and left outside. The first of these are now emerging through the top dressing after a further 4 weeks (picture 1). Remainder returned to fridge and inspected weekly. Another 3 seedlings were potted in mid may and the 3 in the next picture were done this weekend (8 weeks after treatment). This is now all the viable seeds and germination was about 80 % for this species. Two other rosulate violas which arrived at the same time were also successful but had fewer viable seeds (around 50%). Not bad for a first attempt at these. Of course now comes the difficult part......
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Well done Darren! I don't have the patience or dedication to grow plants which need special conditions to germinate.
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Collomia debilis from SRGC sown January 2012 and germinated April 2013 :)
Seed sown January this year also germinated in April
In 2011 I got Colutea instead :(
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Well done Darren! I don't have the patience or dedication to grow plants which need special conditions to germinate.
Sadly I don't really either, though I've used smoke treatment successfully on South African Ericas, Proteas and restios.
I'm really terribly lazy about this. Despite my growing terrestrial orchids and having access to the necessary clean room facilities I've never bothered with seed sowing beyond a brief (successful) experiment with Dactylorhiza seed about 15 years ago.
My trouble is I want to grow everything rather than concentrate on one group of plants. Life is too short to over-specialise.
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Cynoglossum grande, a Pacific Northwest USA native, in the borage family:
[attach = 1]
Sown 1/19/13, warm 30 days, cold fridge 3.5 months, then fluorescent lights in cool basement. Seems to prefer sandy/gritty soil and dryish summers.
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I've had 3 Cyclamen seedlings germinate!
Except they're in pots of Fritillaria which I repotted in summer!
The seed must've been from a re-cycled" pot - though I rarely discard cyclamen seed-pots. Well, I must've on this occasion.
Any guesses as to which species it is?
cheers
fermi
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Looks like C. graecum to me Fermi.
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Thanks, Darren,
My suspicion as well - but where did they originate?
I can only speculate that I emptied an ungerminated pot into the re-potting compost bin.
Must check my records.
cheers
fermi
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- but where did they originate?
fermi
Greece? ;D
I at last have a few things coming through from my post Czech sowings. Nothing wildly exciting yet but at least the process has started. I was thinking I must have done something terribly wrong, or somehow poisoned my compost or maybe put some horrid spell on the pots as there's usually SOMETHING within a couple of weeks. But of course I don't usually sow mid winter as I did this year. The weather is still cold here- several days with just 10 or 11 degrees, a frost every couple of nights and fogs on the inbetween nights. But hundreds of small pots are sprouting every kind of bulb from last year's and the year before's sowings so lots happening. Still sowing though and yesterday I did 60 pots.
I'm going to sow some annuals this week, direct into the bare patches of a refurbished bit of garden. The little blue Charieis heterophylla, a daisy just a few cms high and of the most glorious blue, navy blue in the centre and occasionally available as seed, wrongly named Felecia bergeriana; the almost black form of single Papaver somniferum from Stewart Preston's seed and a little sweet pea called 'Pink Cupid.' Although this is available in the garden centres at present (and very expensively!)just as 'Cupid' and ostensibly bred by Dr Keith Hammett of Auckland, it is actually what we alpine gardeners in NZ have known for many years as "Bunty's Pea," Bunty being Bunty Roi who was in charge of the NZAGS seed list for many years and distributed this lovely thing to many people. It grows prostrate to about 12-15cms high and 50cms across and has a myriad of teo-tone pink sweet peas on short stems, with the typical and much loved fragrance of its taller relatives. It's great for little posies. The Charieis is seed kept going from my friend June Keeley who died in 1993 so it's been with me for quite a time now. All three of these plants, though just annual, now have special associations with wonderful people no longer with us.
My first task though is to work out some covering for the area as our three chooks, Tamara, Tatiana and Boris are great scratchers and this recently planted area is a favourite place for them.
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Some recent germinations:
first a general shot of a tray of seedling pots;
Lewisis rediviva - NARGS 2013
Calochortus concolor NARGS 2013
Crocus...from Marcus
cheers
fermi
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Herminium monorchis to the right and Dactylorhiza trausteineri to the left germinating on cardboard. It seems that Dacts germinate quite easy with the cardboard-method, but the Orchis germinate poorly. Epipactis palustris have germinated quite well, but no sign to germination on E. atrorubens.
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This is a potful of Rhodophiala bifida seedlings - I got the seed parent from Paul T in Canberra and the pollen came from Josie in Leongatha (Outtrim, actually)! The seed ripened while we were away and was collected for me by a neighbour - a real concerted effort to get these to grow!
cheers
fermi
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From this year's SRGC Seedex
Sorbus reducta
From NARGS
Chilopsis linearis
cheers
fermi
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Is it sad that I am all excited that the 2 pots of seeds I sowed on the 28th July have germinated....
They are from the few packets of seeds I got when I joined the SRGC.
The first one is Erigeron Compositus (Wild Collected) it germinated first, and I was rather surprised as I had resigned myself to the fact they may take some time.
The second pot is Silene Acaulis, not so many of them but I am happy to see some!!
This is my first attempt, so all I have to do now is try and keep them going ;D
Ivan
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That's the great thing about growing from seed Ivan - every little seedling that appears is an adventure - the excitement never wanes!
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Being spring here, there is something new every day at present, so an exciting time. Especially pleased to see a couple of seedlings of Lord Anson'e Blue Pea, Lathyrus nervosus as I have come so close to losing this glorious thing. And a handful of seed I grabbed just on the day we moved house, I couldn't remember what it was when I sowed it a month ago but it looked like alyssum pods though I don't recall having taken anything from an alyssum. I realized today, as it started to germinate overnight, it is the Coral Broom, Cordospartium stevensonii, a beautiful weeping small tree, apparently leafless and with a mass of small purple pea-type flowers. Must get the camera going.
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The Massonia seeds, stored at room temperature and planted 10 August and watered once, are up.
johnw
another germination success from John...
[attachimg=1]
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another germination success from John... (Attachment Link)
With however a lot of spoon-fed expertise from forumists!
johnw
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The Sorbus reducta shown last month are putting on a bit of growth!
Also from SRGC Seedex 2013, Prospero autumnalis,
and 2 from AGS Seedex 2013:
Daphne caucasica -3 of the 4 sown!
Albuca humilis,
cheers
fermi
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Muscari macrocarpum (ex. Golden Fragrance), sown 7 June 2013, own seed.
Is it just me or are most of the M. macrocarpum on sale in garden centres from virused stock? The leaves never look quite right, to my eyes. Lovely scent though.
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I wonder if the cardboard method would work for Xeric ferns to encourage long roots.
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When we were in Tabor we got some wild collected Pulsatilla seed from Olga; the first ones have germinated!
cheers
fermi
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No photos I'm afraid as they are minute, but two weeks after sowing my Musschia wollastonii seed are germinating. I'm rather pleased by this!
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From what I read about the plant, meanie, you can expect a veritable explosion in the rate of its growth quite soon!
http://www.rareplants.de/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=246 (http://www.rareplants.de/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=246)
http://www.anniesannuals.com/signs/m/musschia_wollastonii.htm (http://www.anniesannuals.com/signs/m/musschia_wollastonii.htm)
:o
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From what I read about the plant, meanie, you can expect a veritable explosion in the rate of its growth quite soon!
http://www.rareplants.de/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=246 (http://www.rareplants.de/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=246)
http://www.anniesannuals.com/signs/m/musschia_wollastonii.htm (http://www.anniesannuals.com/signs/m/musschia_wollastonii.htm)
:o
I know! It is the flaw in the plan as it were - I like to do a test sowing ASAP on "special things", but when they germinate I feel obliged to look after them. Trouble is we haven't even seen the winter equinox yet.
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No photos I'm afraid as they are minute, but two weeks after sowing my Musschia wollastonii seed are germinating. I'm rather pleased by this!
Was it the cream/brown or the red-flowered one? That's not so easy to find.......
johnw
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Was it the cream/brown or the red-flowered one? That's not so easy to find.......
johnw
I have seed for both forms, but this test sowing is the red (more reddy brown really?) form. Having read elsewhere of the difficulty others have had germinating them I did mine using the plastic bag method on a good quality paper workshop towel.
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No photos I'm afraid as they are minute, but two weeks after sowing my Musschia wollastonii seed are germinating. I'm rather pleased by this!
Although they seemed to germinate easily enough, transferring them from the damp paper towel to a compost has so far been a 100% failure!
Now that I know the seed is viable I'll do them again in the spring, sown thinly in mini plugs.
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Tulipa seedlings 19th January 2014:
Tulipa kuschkensis, Tulipa biflora, Tulipa lehmanniana, Tulipa rosea, Tulipa Species KV89, all from Kurt Vickery
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One more, plus a couple where Kurt sent me small bulbs, not yet flowering size:
Tulipa hoogiana, Tulipa polychroma, Tulipa Species KV97.
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Over the last couple of years I have found that Kurt's seed quicker and more reliably than anyone else's.
Here (from the left) are Colchicum kotschyii, Crocus laevigatus & Tulipa kaufmanii 'Voshod solnca'. The last one is Fritillaria lanceolata but I can't remember where it came from. The brown paper envelope had " 3. Ex Ukiah CA" on it. Does that ring any bells with anyone?
Erle
Anglesey where snowdrops are coming fast and the first Eranthis
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Crinum moorei f. album: flowered in late July and set seed. Recalcitrant seed, so sown immediately in September, then curious new growth observed in November; finally seedling today.
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Narcissus rupicola watieri from home-collected seed (very few) sown in September 2013 and at 5cm deep following the Ian Young method.
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Narcissus rupicola watieri from home-collected seed (very few) sown in September 2013 and at 5cm deep following the Ian Young method.
Where can I read about "the Ian Young method"? Any help with breaking dormancy of seeds is always welcome - so many species, so many specific requirements! (Light/dark, warm/cold, wet/dry, fire, etcetcetc).
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Where can I read about "the Ian Young method"?
Here: www.srgc.org.uk/journal/young/bulbsfromseed.html (http://www.srgc.org.uk/journal/young/bulbsfromseed.html) and lots of useful tips in Ian's excellent weekly bulb log: www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=bulb (http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=bulb)
With these seeds specifically, I half filled the pot with my normal potting mix (equal parts JI no3, sharp sand and 6mm grit), scattered the seeds and filled the pot with more potting mix so that the seeds are at about 5cm depth. It was then gently tamped down and topped with a half inch of grit. A good watering and then stood in a cold frame* with the light permanently propped open. In essence, dark, moist and with a cool spell.
*Most folk advocate putting pots of bulb seeds in an open frame until germination, when they are brought under cover, but I dare not risk it as our weather and exposure here are so extreme that an un-noticed seedling that has just germinated could be quickly burnt off by the next gale.
I claim no credit, I have found Ian's tips to be invaluable.
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Thanks Matt!
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*Most folk advocate putting pots of bulb seeds in an open frame until germination, when they are brought under cover, but I dare not risk it as our weather and exposure here are so extreme that an un-noticed seedling that has just germinated could be quickly burnt off by the next gale.
A moot point of difference Matt- well noted for your situation - we are fortunate so close to the sea here on the East to have what is mostly a very sheltered garden, so all our seedpots can take their chances outside (- except in the very worst weather, so in fact seldom covered) - for sure if you tried that most of your pots would take to the skies, I'm sure!
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...for sure if you tried that most of your pots would take to the skies, I'm sure!
As I mentioned in another thread, I have indeed had coldframes take to the skies! Your proximity to the sea in the east is a blessing, my proximity to the ocean in the west means we get a real battering. The highest point on Benbecula is only 90-odd metres above sea level, so we're essentially a sponge floating in the Atlantic.
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This rather dull looking seedling is Cubanola domingensis.........................
[attach=1]
Rather pleased as I bought the seeds three years ago, germinated a few and then mislaid them. Lost one of this latest sowing due to the seed coat not releasing the embryonic leaves, but there is this one plus another one germinating.
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I have sown quite a few peony seeds but have never seen any which shows the cotyledons before. A more normal seeling to the left. Own seed from rockii.
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you're right, hypogeal germinating is the normal germinating process in the genus Paeonia. but some germinate epigeal...afaik Paeonia brownii, tenuifolia + rockii ssp. linyanshanii (maybe some more species, i don't know). when the seed grains are slighty covered with soil, the powerful hypocotyl is able to lift up the grain above soil surface. but this should not to be confused with an epigeal germination, because the cotyledons are still inside the seed + never been able to photosynthesis. on your photo the 2 cotyledons are green + this is true epigeal germination in my mind.
germinating P. brownii (old photo), cotyledons still inside the seed, but you might see the folded + green(!) cotyledon
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Colchicum szovitzii form Gothenburg sown in March 2013
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Alan Elliott has got his Meconopsis horridula agg. seed from Alpine Garden Society Seed germinating now
[attachimg=1]
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The passed weekend brought some warmth and sunshine and this lovely surprise. Trillium sulcatum! I bought the same seeds this year and did plan a bit better spreading them in several pots.[attach=1]
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Tchihatchewia isatidea
Seeds of Paul Cumbleton (thank you again). Sown on 15/10/2013
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Question!
I had some problems with the germination thing.
One particular pot with Androsace seeds did this: The seeds emerged a bit, I could see the roots going down, but the seed never opened and after a while the named root got soft and the whole thing collapsed and died.
Could it be cause I watered a bit more... I thought the seeds don't have enough moisture...
Also... is there a good way to control moisture in pots (with seeds barely covered?). I always think the surface is DRY and I spray water on top.
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Also... is there a good way to control moisture in pots (with seeds barely covered?). I always think the surface is DRY and I spray water on top.
For small seeds that need surface sowing I prefer to sow them in these.....................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2007.jpg)
I cut drainage holes into the bottom and can keep the mediums level of moisture just right by watering from the bottom. Very successful with small seeds.
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Some seeds germinating now:
Allium carinatum pulchellum from SRGC seed ex
Dianthus deltoides
Primula veris
Rosa rugosa
Scilla siberica (self-sown)
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And a single Primula scotica
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Question!
I had some problems with the germination thing.
One particular pot with Androsace seeds did this: The seeds emerged a bit, I could see the roots going down, but the seed never opened and after a while the named root got soft and the whole thing collapsed and died.
Could it be cause I watered a bit more... I thought the seeds don't have enough moisture...
Also... is there a good way to control moisture in pots (with seeds barely covered?). I always think the surface is DRY and I spray water on top.
Hi Fixpix, Two years ago I had similar problems with newly germinated seeds failing to grow. The seedlings were being taken at soil level by damping off. I was adding moisture to the soil surface, and this brought on ideal conditions for the 'Damping Off' fungi to thrive. It was terrible to see the seedlings fall over, or simply shrivel. Once the fungi had started, there was little to no chance of rescuing the seedlings, even with the addition of fungicide powder.
Now I refuse to water seedling trays from above. As soon as they need water, I set them in a larger container that holds water. They get all their moisture from below. I like to think this method might help the seedlings to root more deeply.
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Ranzania japonica, seeds from Gothentburg botanical.
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Very nice Siri.
So far I've had no success with seed from another source :'(
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If you have trouble with damping off of newly germinated seedlings, use one of the various products based on the Trichoderma fungus. Trichoderma is a genus of well over 200 species of fungus but they are benign, or rather they act in a beneficial way towards other plants, colonising the available space before harmful fungi can do so. Lots about it in a couple of other threads on the Forum. Maggi will be able to find them. It works!!!
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Ranzania japonica, seeds from Gothentburg botanical.
I got seeds from there too, and they germinated readily as soon as I sowed them, some seeds even had roots forming when they arrived damp packed. I had tried twice from dry seeds with no germination, so I'm very happy about these seedlings now. :)
Maybe this is one of the species which germinates only from fresh or damp packed seeds..
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This rather dull looking seedling is Cubanola domingensis.........................
(Attachment Link)
Rather pleased as I bought the seeds three years ago, germinated a few and then mislaid them. Lost one of this latest sowing due to the seed coat not releasing the embryonic leaves, but there is this one plus another one germinating.
One month on and the second set of leaves are showing.....................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2016.jpg?t=1397027049)
It is painfully slow growing. Here is a three year old seedling..................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2016a.jpg?t=1397027304)
Watsonia lepida seedlings...................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2017.jpg?t=1397027063)
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Been playing pitch and put meanie? :P
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Been playing pitch and put meanie? :P
I "scored" two one hundred litre bags of bean bag filling on Freegle. Ideal substitute for buying Perlite.
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If you have trouble with damping off of newly germinated seedlings, use one of the various products based on the Trichoderma fungus. Trichoderma is a genus of well over 200 species of fungus but they are benign, or rather they act in a beneficial way towards other plants, colonising the available space before harmful fungi can do so. Lots about it in a couple of other threads on the Forum. Maggi will be able to find them. It works!!!
Search from the search button fourth from the left in the row of options near the top of the page - Search Trichoderma - you'll find lots of results- 31 results!
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Pulsatilla seedlings.
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I got seeds from there too, and they germinated readily as soon as I sowed them, some seeds even had roots forming when they arrived damp packed. I had tried twice from dry seeds with no germination, so I'm very happy about these seedlings now. :)
Maybe this is one of the species which germinates only from fresh or damp packed seeds..
Some of the seeds had already germinated upon arrival here too.
I have so far not had any success in germinating the rest of the seeds, though. Maybe I shoud just be happy with the ones I've got, but...
(And Gothentburg - there must be something wrong with my keyboard.)
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Some of the seeds had already germinated upon arrival here too.
I have so far not had any success in germinating the rest of the seeds, though. Maybe I shoud just be happy with the ones I've got, but...
Three of the seeds had roots already when they arrived, but when I had potted them, only one sprouted, the other two never came up. ???
I sowed the other seeds (the ones with no roots) to a separate pot and they started to come up in a week or two, can't remember now. I had kept the pot inside in about +18°C .
I hope the rest of your seeds still germinate. :)
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Thanks! :)
So far still no luck.
Aconitum episcopale from Chiltern.
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Trillium kurabayashii germinating in the garden.
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Right.
That's why they are so cheap.
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Tropaeolum speciosum seedlings, seed sown 11/24/12, given winter and summer temperatures, but not colder than 25F, mix kept moist. Germinated 3/10/14, transplanted yesterday.
[attach=1]
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Very nice Siri.
So far I've had no success with seed from another source :'(
I guess it has a lot to do with the seed you've got. Not necessarily the seed source; the quality may vary.
Even our Norwegian local seed hero Magnar was happy when he got seeds of Ranzania that woud germinate.
So - try again! :)
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Magnar is something of a hero, here, too! :)
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Magnar is something of a hero, here, too! :)
Well, he's special, anythehows.
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Xerophyta viscosa. Sown 26th February in John Innes seed compost/perlite. Pot enclosed in sealed plastic bag. Germinated at around 20degreesC. No smoke.
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Thysanotus multiflorus......................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2063.jpg)
Most advice says two to five weeks for germination - more like eighteen months!!!!
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Hello friends of gardening ;D
Seeding of Astrantia rubra
(https://scontent-b-cdg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/10013906_1442839455960536_6100177230344613359_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-cdg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/10173644_1442839452627203_8053255731890003542_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/10171284_1442843029293512_6725271775931175231_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-cdg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/1888747_1442842932626855_8111858443345528512_n.jpg)
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I've been noticing these dicot seedlings appearing in various pots!
A new weed?
The last pic shows one of the culprits - one of the Delosperma cooperi plants we bought last September in Canberra when visiting Paul T.
Should I remove them now and pot up separately or wait till they produce their first true leaves?
cheers
fermi
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Trillium kurabayashii germinating in the garden.
Good Lord!!!!!
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I'm too happy to show you these nice Pancratium illyricum seedlings. I 've been waiting one year since i've sown them but what a good surprise to get one hundred of them ;D
Sorry for the picture, I have only my mobile phone :-\
The second picture is the parent which is starting to bloom today
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Warm weather has brought up some seedlings:
Acis autumnalis
Eschscholzia (orange)
Narcissus r. watieri ex 'Abaleish' (a kind gift from the Bainbridges)
Pulsatilla vulgaris
Scilla peruviana
Nb: for some reason I wrote 2015 on my labels...don't ask me why?!
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And one from the veg garden, these are Asparagus seedlings.
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Nicotiana glauca seedlings pricked out (in the foreground is Codonopsis pilosa)....................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2165.jpg)
N.glauca has the common name of Tree Nicotiana. Last year mine grew from 40cm to 2.5 metres and came through the winter (mostly outdoors) unscathed.
I have spare seed if anyone is interested.
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Sisyrinchium convolutum now germinating now - sown 3-6-2012
cheers
fermi
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I hadn't checked these for a few days and I have a seedling! Thunbergia gregorii..................
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/13983527397_f23484b886_o.jpg)
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Not all germinating right now ... but at least recently
sprekelia formosissima
Galtonia regalis & Galtonia princeps (they really look the same)
Dahlia merckii
A hippeastrum hybrid (tetraploid I think)
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My Massonia seedlings are now 9 months old and are just going dormant. Shall I dry them off completely, store them coolish and then water again in August?
I received a packet of M. wittebergensis from one of the exchanges and the PBS says it is a summer grower. Would I plant these seeds now in a fast-draining mix, water once and treat as I would the winter growers? I reckon it could be tricky should any heat and humidity descend on these fog-bound lands.
johnw
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Fagus sylvatica in its green and dark red forms is my most favourite tree of all time. I love the way the dark ones start pink then darken to black almost overnight and I love the way the greens go rich tan in the autumn. It is a beautifully shaped tree too. There's a golden one in a garden near me too. Not the commercial gold form which has a different shape but the "ordinary" one, but gold-leaved.
We have some pendulous species in the arboretum that look like a waterfall of fire in autumn. I definitely agree, one of my all time favorites. :D
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These are cosmos young plants that I sowed about three weeks back, they germinated really quick.
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Just spent about 90 minutes pricking Musschia wollastonii seedlings out of a 6cm pot. There's fifty here - I must have thrown that many out as well!
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2266.jpg)
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How do we germinate Skimmia jap
Ken's picture from this morning.......
johnw - +8c, overcast
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Goodness me- it's nice when the plants play fair and lend a hand, but this is real Do it Yourself stuff by the Skimmia. Must have a VERY impatient nature! :)
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Johnw - gotta be a contender for the easiest seeds to germinate!
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Johnw - gotta be a contender for the easiest seeds to germinate!
Right up there with Nerine sarniensis! ;)
johnw
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My first ever Passiflora to germinate - P.colinvauxii..................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2279a.jpg)
Bought the seed from a private seller on fleabay and was hoping that the "fresh seed" would hold true coming from an enthusiast. Looks as if I may have got lucky.
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2 from "trillium"'s list, ordered and sown rather late. Any advice on keeping them going? My record with lilies is poor.
Hopeful
Erle in Anglesey
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A few more germinating:
Erigeron karvinskianus
Rhododendron macabeanum
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Matt - Was your bigmac seed from a good yellow form? Earl of Stair is the one to grow if selfed.
johnw
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Looking back over these pages, it occurs to me that maybe we are sometimes not patient enough. Sure, I know the packet will often say "2-4 weeks" or something else quite hopeful but this may be under optimal conditions, like in the best climate possible, or from seed harvested yesterday or whatever other best possible circumstances. I wonder how many of us have given up on a pot of something seed because it took longer than we expected? Many things, especially bulbs will take the stated time PLUS an extra 1-8 years! if all is not as fresh as possible at sowing. Recently I've had a number of species both bulbous and herbaceous, germinate after 1-5 years and think it's because we've had almost non-stop rain over the autumn and now into winter. So many conditions can either start or delay "normal" germination that I don't believe any given time is reliable. If nothing else, seeds have taught me to be very patient and never to give up, especially on things which are infinitely precious so that waiting yet another year is worth while and indeed, often brings an eventual reward.
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Matt - Was your bigmac seed from a good yellow form? Earl of Stair is the one to grow if selfed.
johnw
I'm afraid I don't know John. Seed was from the SRGC Seed Exchange this year. I will have to wait a few years to let you know if it's a good form.
M
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Time flies and more seeds germinate.
Also a new pic of Galtonia Regalis seedlings that are putting up their second leave now.
Others are tigridia pavonia (red), commelina coelestis & dierama pulcherrinum. The commelina seeds are from the batch that I sent to the seed exchange (just kept a few for myself), so there are happy gardeners elsewhere also :), germination rate is excellent for me.
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and Zantedeschia Rehmanii is also germinating. Since the picture was taken more seeds germinated. We had a few tropical days over here and it looks like the Zantedeschias responded well to the humid heat.
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All from SRGC Seed Exchange:
Nomocharis aperta germinating now, as are N. farreri and and Nomocharis "mixed" (identical, so i've not bothered with separate photos).
Also, a slightly advanced Crambe maritima seedling.
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For some reason I find seedlings of Crambe maritima very satisfying, perhaps due to their cabbagey look. It's one of my favourite plants and worth selecting seedlings as some are much bluer than others.
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I have just the one, which is attractive enough, but I'm just not sure I can relegate it to the veg garden. I will likely put it in the ornamental border as I'm looking forward to the flowers as much as the textural foliage.
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Some Pinguicula seedlings: Pinguicula lusitanica and Pinguicula grandiflora subsp. grandiflora
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Daubenya aurea, sown 25 July '14.
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Daubenya aurea, sown 25 July '14.
When did you sow Matt? I thought September was the best time.
Chris
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Hi Chris,
I knew that I'd be pushed for time last month, so I was a bit earlier sowing all my seed this year, which I did at the same time as the annual bulb re-potting. The pots weren't watered but were left in the open.
With these winter growing Daubenya I don't think any harm would come from an earlier sowing. With our autumn/winter starting maybe a month ahead of those folk down south it's probably a good thing for the wee seedlings to have a bit of a head start to bulk up before the winter proper sets in. I'm hoping that slightly bigger, stronger seedlings will better cope with our long winter.
As a matter of course I would normally like to have all my seeds sown by the beginning of September so they can be first watered along with the bulbs. If I lived in the southern counties this might be a month later than up here. As it happens, this autumn seems to have arrived a few weeks early anyway.
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Hi Matt
Yes, bit stupid asking the sowing date when it comprised your entire text. ::)
I bought some Daubenya seeds myself this year and sowed then on 4 September so it will be interesting to see how they compare.
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Will look forward to seeing how your sowing compares.
Speaking of which, I repotted my first year seedling bulbs of Narcissus rupicola subsp. watieri ex 'Abaleish' to bring them into the protection of the bulb frame for the winter. There were 12 bulbs deeper than they had been sown and the remaining seeds appeared to still be in good condition and were resown at depth again. I didn't get a photo of the bulblets, but they were a good size and round in shape.
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Will look forward to seeing how your sowing compares.
Speaking of which, I repotted my first year seedling bulbs of Narcissus rupicola subsp. watieri ex 'Abaleish' to bring them into the protection of the bulb frame for the winter. There were 12 bulbs deeper than they had been sown and the remaining seeds appeared to still be in good condition and were resown at depth again. I didn't get a photo of the bulblets, but they were a good size and round in shape.
Hi Matt
Mine showed well from a surface sowing but I have no plans to repot this year. Too busy with contractors and we have work starting on the Kederhouse in a few days time to repair some damage to the outriggers, which has meant moving a lot of stock.
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Muscari (Bellevalia?) romana, sown 06 Aug. '14.
Ipheion uniflorum, sown 25 Jul. '14.
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Fritillaria davidii (rice grain bulbils), sown 6 May 2014, from Bjornar Olsen.
Chris
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Muscari (Bellevalia?) romana, sown 06 Aug. '14.
And a couple of weeks later!
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Daubenya comata showing today. Sown on 4 September 2014.
Chris
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Iris cycloglossa from SRGC Seedex sown last year
cheers
fermi
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Crocus hyemalis and Romulea bulbocodium var. leitchliniana, both from Oron Peri.
Allium sikkimense.
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I had taken some more pics of seeds for our Seed Identification Project, and look what I found.... Allium sikkimense already germinating inside a dried pod that had re-moistened.
Honestly, I didn't even think I had any viable seed at all since the capsules didn't look developed at a casual glance. I only realized it when I went to tidy the plants up and discard the "dead" seed heads. And when I discovered the seed, I had just thought there was some dried appendage of some time still attached to some of them, but they germinated while still on the mother plant!
So Matt, can I assume your Allium sikkimense seed was freshly sown?
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So Matt, can I assume your Allium sikkimense seed was freshly sown?
Hi Rick,
What a coincidence! My seed was sown on 3 September and was sourced from Plant World Seeds. I assume it is seed from this year's harvest and as fresh as can be from a commercial source.
Cheers, M
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I had taken some more pics of seeds for our Seed Identification Project, and look what I found.... Allium sikkimense already germinating inside a dried pod that had re-moistened.
Honestly, I didn't even think I had any viable seed at all since the capsules didn't look developed at a casual glance. I only realized it when I went to tidy the plants up and discard the "dead" seed heads. And when I discovered the seed, I had just thought there was some dried appendage of some time still attached to some of them, but they germinated while still on the mother plant!
How intriguing to see the "enthusiasm" for some seeds to start into growth!
More importantly:
Thanks to Rick for his continued contributions to our Seed Identification Project - this is a valuable resource which can only grow if we make the effort to add to it. I urge more of you to become involved by posting photos, on graph paper to show scale, of seed for which you are confident of the identification - http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4426.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4426.0)
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Colchicum boissieri seed from Marcus Harvey, sown 21-4-13 and first seedlings 16-9-14,
Lilium humboldtii NARGS Seedex sown 30-6-13, first cotyledon 21-7-14 and first true leaf emerged 29-8-14
cheers
fermi
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Nerine Krigei seedlings, sown as soon as the seeds dropped on the ground. Even the first leave already has the typical twisting.
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You go away for a weekend and find lots of germination has been going on in your absence!
Pictured is Narcissus bulbocodium subsp. bulbocodium (syn N.b. genuinis) from Brian Duncan seed supplied by Anne Wright. I also have N. bulbocodium 'lime forms' and N. jeanmonodii germinating, also from BD/AW seed.
Others include my own collected Cyclamen hederifolium germinating in vast numbers and Romulea ramiflora from Oron Peri (OP28246).
I also found that the wind had plucked out a few labels from my seed pots, so now have a few 'no label' pots :-\
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Townsendia parryi germinated after only 2 weeks, Massonia echinata took about 6 months.
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Very satisfying numbers of little plants there, Mike.
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First seedling emerged in the pot of Hexacyrtis dickiana whilst I was away.................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0400a.jpg)
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First seedling emerged in the pot of Hexacyrtis dickiana whilst I was away.................
It occurs to me that others may be as ignorant as I about this plant :-[
A member of the Colchicaceae, it seems to be a monotypic genus, described by Moritz Kurt Dinter in 1932 : Repertorium Specierum Novarum Regni Vegetabilis. Centralblatt für Sammlung und Veroffentlichung von Einzeldiagnosen neuer Pflanzen 30: 84, Hexacyrtis dickiana
http://plants.jstor.org/specimen/pre0112839-0?history=true (http://plants.jstor.org/specimen/pre0112839-0?history=true)
See here : http://www.ispot.org.za/node/188661 (http://www.ispot.org.za/node/188661) for some photos and more information.
From this site : http://www.maggys-mallorca-pflanzenforum.com/t3485f156-Namib-Lilie-hexacyrtis-dickiana.html (http://www.maggys-mallorca-pflanzenforum.com/t3485f156-Namib-Lilie-hexacyrtis-dickiana.html) it seems that the growth will be looooong and grasslike :)
( The i-spot site is an interesting one for S. A. plants - for example : http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Colchicaceae?page=3 (http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Colchicaceae?page=3)
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It occurs to me that others may be as ignorant as I about this plant :-[
( The i-spot site is an interesting one for S. A. plants - for example : http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Colchicaceae?page=3 (http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Colchicaceae?page=3)
Maggi - you are soooo baaaaad!! My shopping list just got bigger.
I too was totally ignorant of the existence even of Hexacyrtis, but when I stumbled across it whilst checking out a reliable SA seller I had to have it as I have a weakness for this type of flower form (Tricyrtis, Gloriosa etc).
It's always good to move outside of ones comfort zone.
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A few months ago I posted a photo of the Musschia germinating. This is typical of the surviving seedlings (eleven in total).................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/c30670e2-86d1-4dfa-b4a0-4a840c01e2b3.jpg?t=1414065023)
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Growing on well - and for a campanulaceae, it looks a lot like a primulas at this stage, eh? !!
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Great to see the Musschia, how exciting. :o
And here 19 Isoplexis canariensis sown in early August. Should we force them to go dormant soon?
johnw
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Great to see the Musschia, how exciting. :o
And here 19 Isoplexis canariensis sown in early August. Should we force them to go dormant soon?
johnw
Growing on well - and for a campanulaceae, it looks a lot like a primulas at this stage, eh? !!
The survivors are doing well. However, it is a fickle thing whilst small. Critical not to over water (even to a certain extent at this stage) and it dislike too much temperature variance (leastways, the ones in the greenhouse gave up the ghost whilst the ones on the seedling bench outdoors were fine despite being fairly cool).
As far as the Isoplexis seedlings go I'm not sure. I grew I.isabelliana from seed last year - a couple shut down for the winter and never really got going again. The rest carried on growing slowly and did far, far better.
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I'm having some success with species Liliums this year. I've got germination of Lilium concolor var. strictum, L. pardalinum and L. pumilum. All looking very healthy and growing on. I'm confident that I can get them through to flowering size... but we will see.
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Saxifraga oppositifolia ex Theoden sown July 2014
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A bit blurry,but I hope you can see it. Geranium farreri sown in July. The label says 2 seeds. There should have been more seeds later but I forgot to keep checking if they were ready.
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I had Campanula thyrsoides flowering last year and did not think it had set seed but found these seedlings when weeding neighbouring pots.
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A bit blurry,but I hope you can see it. Geranium farreri sown in July. The label says 2 seeds. There should have been more seeds later but I forgot to keep checking if they were ready.
Sorry for the following being out of context of the post, but where did you manage to find seeds of Geranium farreri? I would love to grow this again.
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The seed I sowed this year came from my own plant. I've had the one plant for a number of years, grown from exchange seed. I think it still has the label so can check the year in daylight. This is the first time I have seen seed on it. I wish I had remembered to check it more often as it did set more seed.
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I have just the one, which is attractive enough, but I'm just not sure I can relegate it to the veg garden. I will likely put it in the ornamental border as I'm looking forward to the flowers as much as the textural foliage.
I love the flowers too. They're very pretty and smell of wild honey. Unfortunately I have to keep a wire basket over mine as the bunnies just LOVE it! >:(
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Sorry for the following being out of context of the post, but where did you manage to find seeds of Geranium farreri? I would love to grow this again.
Helen in New Brunswick sent me 3 seeds and they all germinated. I gave one sdlg to Louise at Hokonui and the other two are flowering now in a trough, still very small plants but doing nicely. :)
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I sowed some seeds of Galanthus Transcaucasia & Galanthus lagodechianus in late March, surface sown then covered in grit, put outside in a shelted spot & left to there own devices, only watering when needed. I noticed the other day a little grass like shoot in the Transcaucasia pot.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7553/15238472673_3c2085f1c1_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/126223196@N05/15238472673/)
Galanthus Transcaucasia seedling (https://www.flickr.com/photos/126223196@N05/15238472673/) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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[attachimg=1]
Seed of Anisotome latifolia that have germinated underneath the parent plants . This is the first time I have since this and wonder if the weather is responsible . There has been rainfall on 23 days so far this month and 20 days last month
The parent plants are flowering well at the moment
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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That's a lot of rain, Steve. (I'd be getting worried about foot rot!! ::) ;) ;D ;D )
The "proud parent" plants are indeed looking fantastic :)
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Yes Maggi , I'm wearing my wet weather freeflow jandals to stop the rot .
Ian and Ann Christie are well but have yet to enjoy the climate in the far south . I'm sure there will pictures of them soon
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I'm heartened to hear you are taking sensible (?!!) precautions, Steve. ;D
Can't help feeling that if the Christies wanted to get soaked they could have stayed at home! :-\
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I'm heartened to hear you are taking sensible (?!!) precautions, Steve. ;D
In dangerous areas Steve has his steel-toe caps to protect him!
cheers
fermi
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(I posted something similar on the Nargs forum.)
Photos of astragalus seedlings, both from collections made last century. Nicked and soaked within the last three weeks.
First, Astragalus hirticalyx, from a Jurasek collection in 1991 or 1992.
Second, Astragalus sobolevskiae, from a Halda collection in 1995.
Photographed on wet filter paper.
Neither the Kew herbarium site nor Plantarium has images of A. sobolevskiae.
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Some gentians, sown at 55-65F, GA-3 solution dripped on the soil mix, covered with transparent propagation dome, placed under fluorescent lights. All germinated in 2-3 weeks. All have received one feed of dilute soluble fertilizer. Moss and algae start growing as soon as fertilizer is applied. You need to keep the plants growing faster than the moss.
Gentianopsis grandis:
[attach=1]
Gentiana calycosa:
[attach=2]
Gentianopsis crinita:
[attach=3]
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Alstroemeria pulchella and pulchra, sown November 11, 1/4 inch deep, 55-65F, grown under fluorescents:
[attach=1]
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A kind gift of various autumn-flowering crocus species, seed wild collected in Greece. Sown 16 October 2014, first seedlings through by mid-December.
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A fresh batch of Physoplexis comosa:
[attach=1]
Note the gigantic perlite and vermiculite boulders.
I love digital photography. Can you tell?
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Campanula cochlearifolia alba, one month from sowing of seed:
[attach=1]
They are nearly ready for transplanting. Some of them will bloom this summer.
When growing white forms from seed, I discovered that I should not discard the smaller, weaker seedlings, because they might be the white ones. The blue ones grow a lot faster.
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Watsonia seedlings sown 7-9-2014.
Tritonia lilacina seedlings sown 24-08-2014.
Tritonia Prince of orange seedling sown on the 24-08-2014
Tritonia Tangerine seedlings sown on the 08-09-2014
Acis Autumnalis seedlings sown on the 08-09-2014
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A few more.
Moraea Lurida seedlings sown 18-07-2014.
Gladiolus carneus seedlings. sown 08-09-2014.
Moraea setifolia seedlings sown on the 27-08-2014
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Incarvillea mairei 'Frank Ludlow', seed purchased from Jack Drake around 1988, stored in freezer, sown one week ago at 15C, placed under lights:
[attach=1]
Saxifraga arendsii, sown two weeks ago at 15C, placed under lights:
[attach=2]
A huge range of seeds germinates well under fluorescent lights, even the ones that Deno says require darkness.
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Some tiny babies:
Phyllodoce empetriformis, seed collected in Cascade mts; surface-sow; 2 weeks at 60F:
[attach=1]
Gentianopsis crinita: surface-sow, apply GA-3 to soil surface; 2 weeks at 60F:
[attach=2]
Phyteuma scheuchzeri: surface-sow; 2 weeks at 60F:
[attach=3]
Physoplexis comosa: seeds garden-collected; surface-sow; apply GA-3 to soil surface; 2 weeks at 60F:
[attach=4]
My seedling farm:
[attach=5]
Temperature: 55-65F (13-18C). Fan above the lights gives a little gentle air flow over the plants. I don't leave it on all the time. Transparent propagation dome keeps humidity high around germinating seeds, without the use of plastic bags. Hooks and chains let me adjust height of fixtures. Foil-covered insulating foam (barely visible at back) reflects light back to the plants. By Spring, these plants will think they are a year old, and many will bloom this Summer. Stresses and hazards are nearly eliminated in this system.
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Coming home from two weeks on Christmas travels I found several pots of Crocus seed have germinated:
From the Crocus Group seed exchange:
Crocus boryi
Crocus laevigatus and
Crocus laevigatus 'Gold Back' ex Crete
From SRGC seed exchange 2013/14:
Crocus speciosus
Crocus tommasinianus
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One of our California native perennials:
Lupinus albifrins var. collinus
I start many of our native annuals in seed pans too. They are started about 1 October. They are all up and growing now and will be moved into the garden as soon as possible. When the native annuals are happy they reseed themselves without my help. If all goes right the spring show can be very nice.
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Germinating now is Crocus mathewii from the Crocus Group seed exchange. This pot was actually upset by the wind soon after sowing, spilling the contents everywhere. I retrieved what I could but didn't have high hopes of getting anything at all. However, I might still get one popping up from the cracks in the paving! ;D
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Here is a Crocus mathewii seedling, too. Both parents of the seeds in this pot came from Janis.
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Canna warscewiczii..............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0535a.jpg)
Ridiculously easy! They were chipped on the 21st, soaked for 48 hrs, wrapped in cotton wool, bagged up and hung here................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0459-1.jpg)
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Aster alpinus, sown 1/8/15 (that's month/day/year):
[attach=1]
Gentianopsis crinita, sown 11/15/14:
[attach=2]
Incarvillea mairei, sown 12/25/14:
[attach=3]
Painted daisy, sown 1/1/15:
[attach=4]
Physoplexis comosa, sown 12/15/14:
[attach=5]
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Phyteuma scheuchzeri, sown 12/25/14:
[attach=1]
Phyteuma sieberi, sown 1/8/15:
[attach=2]
Saxifraga arendsii, sown 12/18/14:
[attach=3]
Veronica incana, sown 1/2/15:
[attach=4]
Alstroemeria pulchra and pulchella, sown 11/4/14:
[attach=5]
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Viola cotyledon.
Seed arrived early April. 24 hour soak in 500ppm GA3, followed by 4 weeks in damp filter paper in a fridge, inspected weekly. First few seeds showed roots after 4 weeks (early May) and were potted up and left outside. The first of these are now emerging through the top dressing after a further 4 weeks (picture 1). Remainder returned to fridge and inspected weekly. Another 3 seedlings were potted in mid may and the 3 in the next picture were done this weekend (8 weeks after treatment). This is now all the viable seeds and germination was about 80 % for this species. Two other rosulate violas which arrived at the same time were also successful but had fewer viable seeds (around 50%). Not bad for a first attempt at these. Of course now comes the difficult part......
Hallo Darren,
how are the Viola,s at the moment? Do they still live ......
I have a question for you ( ore other forum members offcorse), I have sown at the end off November 2014 seeds off Viola cotyledon. I have not used GA-3 because in my opinion the seedlings are growing to high. The are in the refrigiator at till now. So nearly 2 months. I want to take them out and let the pot
outside in all the weather. Have you any experiens sowing this species without GA-3?
Ore anybody else?
I hope for any answer, please,
best regards Peter
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This for Maggi;
Bomarea edulis germinating................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0545.jpg)
Despite being fresh seed they have still taken about three months to start germinating.
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Three months eh? I'll need to lay in sandwiches for the wait..... ;)
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Three months eh? I'll need to lay in sandwiches for the wait..... ;)
Typical of the youth of today to expect instant gratification!! ;D
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Typical of the youth of today to expect instant gratification!!
Instant gratification. Astragalus aretioides, coll. Kelaidis in 1988. Sown last Sunday at 11 a.m., picture taken about 9 p.m. the same day.
Two obscure astragali collected in 1995:
Astragalus saralensis, JJH 951058, sown two days ago.
Astragalus testiculatus, JJH 951058, sown two days ago.
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Instant gratification. Astragalus aretioides, coll. Kelaidis in 1988. Sown last Sunday at 11 a.m., picture taken about 9 p.m. the same day.
That is fast even for a Fabaceae!
Two obscure astragali collected in 1995:
Astragalus saralensis, JJH 951058, sown two days ago.
Astragalus testiculatus, JJH 951058, sown two days ago.
This actual seed was collected twenty years ago?
Continuing the Fabaceae theme these Bauhinia variegata seeds have also taken about three months to germinate.............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0545-1.jpg)
I chipped one of the Strongylodon seeds that I was given and left the other intact. The chipped one has swollen considerably over the last couple of days............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0546.jpg)
How they looked when I received them.........
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0535-1.jpg)
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This actual seed was collected twenty years ago?
It was. The A. aretioides was twenty-five years old, and very small seed, which made nicking it a great deal of fun.
I was given a large amount of old seed which included about two dozen species of astragalus collected by Halda in the 90s. (And the American aretioides.) There are no specimens of any of these in the online Kew Herbarium site, and Plantarium, the Russian website, only has photos for a few of the species.
Mostly alpine tundra plants.
Example of one, A. pterocephalus, aka Astracantha pterocephala.
http://www.plantarium.ru/page/image/id/26476.html (http://www.plantarium.ru/page/image/id/26476.html)
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Fritillaria recurva from Alplains sown in March 2014. Germination started slowly in December but is really speeding up now.
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Gentianopsis crinita, sown 11/15/14, transplanted into bands:
[attach=1]
Physoplexis comosa, sown 1/13/15:
[attach=2]
Physoplexis comosa, sown 12/15/14 , transplanted into bands:
[attach=3]
Phyllodoce empetriformis, sown 12/25/14:
[attach=4]
The shiny leaves in the corner may be Campanula vidalii.
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Our recent cold snap seems to have had positive effect on a lot of seeds.
I was worried that my home-collected Hepatica nobilis seeds weren't going to do anything, so ecstatic to see these little ones pushing through.
Also home-collected, I seem to do very well with Narcissus rupicola subsp. watieri, possibly my favourite small bulb.
Narcissus assoanus seeds from Kurt's last list coming up in good numbers.
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How's this as an advert for the Crocus Group seed exchange?! Crocus laevigatus in mixed forms, for which I should probably have used a larger pot.
Crocus speciosus xantholaimos ex JJA 353.120 and Crocus oreocreticus, both from Mr Vickery.
And Scilla ramburei and S. scilloides, both from SRGC seed exchange 2013/14.
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Hi matt great photos of your seedlings, I have recieved some crocus seeds in the seed exchange, I have never grown crocus from seeds before, can you give me some advice please. Thanks John
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Hi John, Crocus are pretty easy from seed, just treat them like other bulb seed, i.e. Narcissus. Ian's bulblog will have lots of advice and I use the method employed by him and others. Sow them halfway down the pot in a gritty, free-draining mix and leave outside to take all the weather throws at them. I'd do this now but don't expect to see anything until next year. I move seed pots under cover when they germinate as it's so wet here and small seedlings are likely to 'damp off'. Keep them growing with a feed at half strength (I use a balanced Chempak #3) and repot after their second year. I sometimes repot first year seedling bulbs, but they're tiny so better not to do it too soon. Also, late sown seed may be erratic so a second year gives late starters another chance to germinate. And don't forget to post pics here.
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Gentianella detonsa superba, sown 1/1/15:
[attach=1]
Phyteuma sieberi, sown 1/8/15; these start slow, but really take off:
[attach=2]
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Cheers matt thanks for the advice.
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John: a tip that works particularly well for bulb seedlings ( but you can use it for other things too, like meconopsis) is to repot a pot of seedlings all at once into a slightly bigger pot and keep on doing that as needed until the babies are really big and strong enough to survive the shock of transplanting. We find fewer babies are lost this way and it often means the seedlings grow on for a longer period each year, which of course means they get bigger and are likely to flower sooner. This method disturbs them very little but gives them more space and compost to grow into.
I'd recommend that course of action to Matt who has got a very full pot of baby crocus shown in the previous page!
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Thanks Maggi, I've already done just that with a very full pot of Cyclamen seedlings and was planning on doing the same with these Crocus in the summer. In the meantime, they're getting a bit of gentle feeding.
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Perfect baby care, Matt! :D
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Many thanks as always for the great advice maggi
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Only great if it works for you john, though, eh? !! You're always welcome :)
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John: a tip that works particularly well for bulb seedlings ( but you can use it for other things too, like meconopsis) is to repot a pot of seedlings all at once into a slightly bigger pot and keep on doing that as needed until the babies are really big and strong enough to survive the shock of transplanting. We find fewer babies are lost this way and it often means the seedlings grow on for a longer period each year, which of course means they get bigger and are likely to flower sooner. This method disturbs them very little but gives them more space and compost to grow into.
I'd recommend that course of action to Matt who has got a very full pot of baby crocus shown in the previous page!
I use that a lot for tiny seedlings. Let the seedlings grow for two or three months and then take the mass rootball out and dunk it up and down in a container of water. The medium starts to break down and you just tease them apart. Really useful where space under cover is limited early in the year.
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Especially with seedlings of *bulbs* ( in the widest sense) we may do the "en masse" repotting for a year or two - with good results - these can be pots of healthy babies that grow on happily without disturbance for several seasons and get a good start in life that way- and it doesn't take lots of pot space as individually potted up seedlings would. If they're growing really well you might sometimes need to repot more than once a year to keep up with them, but it's still easier and has fewer losses than pricking out tiny seedlings.
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Maggi - a slightly different take on it.................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0557.jpg)
It's a pot of Solanum laciniatum seedlings which I germinated on cotton wool using the baggy method and then potted up en masse for a couple of months. By April I can shift things from the greenhouse freeing up space and I'll pot these up individually. By the end of the 2015 season they will be large plants of two to three metres.
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Sounds like a good scheme for plants like that, meanie.
The seeds we sow are, as you might imagine, predominately of alpine and rock garden subjects .
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The seeds we sow are, as you might imagine, predominately of alpine and rock garden subjects .
Absolutely. The point that I was (ineptly) making was that it can also be applied to herbaceous seedlings for far longer and in far more cramped pots than the accepted wisdom if a little care is taken.
Back on message with your point I found that Albuca shawii performs far better if simply moved to a bigger pot as a clump than if I separate and space the bulbs even after a couple of years.
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Only great if it works for you john, though, eh? !! You're always welcome :)
True Maggie, but all advice is greatly appreciated all the same :)
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This is an interesting topic. The conventional wisdom is to transplant seedlings as soon as the first true leaves appear, but maybe that needs reexamining.
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Yes Ralph, it's what we were taught and what we always used to do - "prick out as soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle" - and we would do that with little Shortias, rhodos etc - we advised as much ourselves - then we discovered that it's much better if you leave them be for longer.
As Ian always say, if a seedling has one ( or two for dicots) tiny leaves and the tiniest of root systems and you damage any of it during the process of pricking out, then the percentage of damage to the plant is much greater than it would be if you do a little damage to a much larger and more robust seedling when pricking out at a later stage.
I suppose that for nursery folks the need to get plants growing on individually as quickly as possible to a saleable size, with the minimum effort regards repotting in that time is a good reason for them to sticjk with the early pricking out. They will factor losses into their reckoning and will be working on a much larger scale anyway. But for private growers, I think the pot on en masse for as long as possible is a good method. We've found that, by this method, bulb seedlings will often grow on for a longer period before going dormant , too.
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But for private growers, I think the pot on en masse for as long as possible is a good method. We've found that, by this method, bulb seedlings will often grow on for a longer period before going dormant , too.
Absolutely. On balance, I've had better success with Cyclamen by just moving the seed pot en masse into a larger pot rather than by trying to prick them out too early. Although it helps not to sow seed too thickly in the first place, unlike with true bulbs where you can sow generously, as Ian's demonstrated many times in the bulb log. Having said that, I know there are cyclamen growers who do prick out young tubers. The problem for me with this is you can rapidly run out of bench space!
Which are the main alpine species where it definitely does benefit to prick out early though? Those with a tap root? It was recommended to me to prick out Androsace early rather than grow on in a group.
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Certainly those with a tap-root - but I know folks who mange to successfully leave even those for quite a while - it may be a skill thing!!
Never had enough Andro seed to have the problem of sowing thinly enough to make 'em a problem!
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There have been a number of pots on this thread recently showing Physoplexis comosa seedlings in quantity. Are these from a commercial source? Might one ask WHICH? and are they still available? Thanks.
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Fritillaria obliqua, seed from Marcus Harvey, sown 13 Nov 2014.
Narcissus calcicola, from Rannveig Wallis, sown 28 Aug 2014.
Muscari sp., a seedhead with a single remaining seed found in Parori Gorge, Peloponnese, sown 09 Nov 2014
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For bulbs, that often form new bulbs well down in the pot I sometimes pot into a larger pot without removing the first pot. If I can I carefully cut off the bottom first but not always if it damages too many roots. This double or trebles the available food source and needs watering less often. Almost no root disturbance takes place this way, useful for seedlings just emerging, and even with the first pot bottom still in place the bulbs sometimes end up in the second pot via the drainage holes.
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For bulbs, that often form new bulbs well down in the pot I sometimes pot into a larger pot without removing the first pot. If I can I carefully cut off the bottom first but not always if it damages too many roots. This double or trebles the available food source and needs watering less often. Almost no root disturbance takes place this way, useful for seedlings just emerging, and even with the first pot bottom still in place the bulbs sometimes end up in the second pot via the drainage holes.
An interesting procedure Brian, but doesn't that cause you problems later when you do want to pot on individually?
Chris
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There have been a number of pots on this thread recently showing Physoplexis comosa seedlings in quantity. Are these from a commercial source? Might one ask WHICH? and are they still available? Thanks.
Lesley, I don't know where the growers got the seed for their pots, but Jelitto Seeds has Physoplexis comosa in stock. Hope this is helpful.
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An interesting procedure Brian, but doesn't that cause you problems later when you do want to pot on individually?
Chris
It depends on how perennial the roots are. If you just end up with a "bulb" at the end of the season it may just be in the outer pot so no problem, but carefully cutting out the pot from a tangle of roots, with a dormant bulb may not be too difficult either. I remember many years ago when exhibiting cushions I was advised to repot the present pot entirely, and then after, remove it carefully and crack or cut off the original pot, hoping the root ball holds it all together and you can drop it back into the shaped hole. With a plastic pot you can remove the base, slit the side, lower it into the hole and then lift the old pot out.
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Thank you Gordon. I'll get in touch with them.
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Can I ask something.
After you sow and cover with grit or something do you ever water again (sprinkle or something)?
I think I am making a mistake.
I tend to sprinkle once in a while, thinking more moisture is needed, probably because of the light "dry" look of the grit.
This may cause rot in the pots, right?
But how can you know the seeds have enough moisture, if you can't see what goes on underneath?
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If, like us, you put pots of seed outside, at least until they germinate, then there is little chance they will get too dry. If your potting mix is good then they will drain well and so will not get too wet either- though you can alsways arrange some cover if the weather is too wet for too long.
If you have the pots under cover all the time you can learn to tell how much moisture is in the mix by feeling the weight of the pot. It is a question of observation and practice.
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These Aconitum volubile seeds started to germinate after a week...............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0578.jpg)
Very frustrating as I just placed them in the living room with the plan of putting them in the fridge after two or three weeks. Now I need to make space for these seedlings.
Puya berteroniana................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0579.jpg)
I really need to pot this one up soon.
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More Crocus (thanks Crocus Group/Wim)!
Crocus kotschyanus leucopharynx
Crocus speciosus
Crocus pulchellus ex 'Zephyr'
Also, I sowed these Tropaeolum speciosum in October 2013. For some reason I didn't extract the seeds from the berries, I don't know why now, maybe I was just being lazy?! Two seedlings up so far. Just need to find somewhere sheltered enough for them to grow... :-\
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As Corydalis malkensis appears in the garden, so too do new seedlings start to germinate. Last year when I harvested the seeds, I separated out the ripe, black seeds, the dark brown ones, and the pale brown or yellowish ones, which were not really ripe. The black seeds were sown in the middle pot. There has been no germination at all from the seeds which had not turned black. The seeds were sown fresh.
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I've been wondering the same thing with impatiens seeds. I was going to try black and brown Impatiens glandulifera seeds, but I can almost swear that my seeds, that were black when harvested, turned brown! So the trials will have to wait another year, so I can be sure.
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The claim that Deinanthe seeds are ephemeral is exaggerated. These tiny Deinanthe caerulea seeds were harvested in mid October 2014. They were kept in an open tea cup at room temperature for four months, until planting, 13 Feb, 2015. Germination on a moist paper towel started on 6 March.
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It's useful to learn which seeds can/should be sown under-ripe or still green. Eg primroses, which come up very quickly if not dried and brown.
I have read that trillium seeds, if sown before fully ripe, can germinate very quickly. So far, I have not found this to be the case - they all seem to need one cold period at least.
I sowed some fresh corydalis solida seeds last spring and they have not germinated yet. I wonder if they were not quite ripe? Harvesting them is difficult - a day too late and they have all been dispersed.
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I have read that trillium seeds, if sown before fully ripe, can germinate very quickly. So far, I have not found this to be the case - they all seem to need one cold period at least.
Most Trillium seeds appear to require a cycle of something like warm-cold-warm-cold-warm in order to germinate (by which I mean showing a cotyledon above the soil surface) if sowing fresh seed from ripe pods.
Carolyn, if you are getting Trillium germination after just one cold period you are achieving what many do not and cutting the germination down to a third of the usual time! You appear to be using the method suggested in the book 'Trilliums' by Fred & Roberta Case, i.e. sowing green seeds from unripe pods, the assumption being that the substances that control the mechanism for a double cold period to trigger cotyledon emergence have not yet been laid down. Congratulations.
If the seed is dry, a lot of patience and low expectations will help ;)
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My new bouses to grow up seedlings, mostly crocus.
The germination grade is quiet high ;D ;D
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Yes, Matt, I have read what the Cases say in their book and last year sowed T hibbertonii and my large maroon trilliums (which may be chloropetalum, or kurabayashii, I'm not sure which) - some slightly under-ripe, some ripe but fresh. I haven't yet found these yet this spring! They are somewhere in one of the frames.... But I know they didn't germinate in the autumn.
What I have got to show you (- I dashed out in the pouring rain to retrieve the pot, so it's a poor photo - I'm not good with the flash) is T. kurabayashii, soaked in water overnight then sown on 5th March 2014 and left outside in all weathers. Three seeds out of 18 have germinated. I would say that they have only had one period of cold - last spring was very mild with no frost or even lowish temperatures. These seeds were from the surplus seed which the seed ex sends out to local groups, which is why they weren't sown till March.
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From what I understand about dry seed (Deno says that dry Trillium seed should be considered dead), that's good going Carolyn.
Germinating here:
Conopodium majus, out native pignut, sown 19 Aug '14. Thank Lisa at Growild!
Fritillaria pudica, sown ?? my spreadsheet is empty :-\ will have to check the label another time
The Tropeaolum speciosum I've shown before, but more are pushing through and characteristic leaves showing now.
Edit: I forgot to add these Crocus biflorus subsp. alexandrii from Marcus Harvey! I also have seed of Crocus hadriaticus from Marcus germinating now.
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sowing seeds
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The second method of sowing
;D
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Sowing Juno spring ???
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Not wishing to cause any confusion regards germinating Trillium kurabayashii seed, but last year I mislaid a large amount of Trillium kurabayashii seed & months later(late September) I found the seed dried to a crisp. I scattered the seed on the garden, it germinated more or less straight away. A photo today of the seedlings emerging for the second time.
It would appear there are no hard & fast rules in nature.
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Seeds that have germinated within the last week in the greenhouse (No Heated :P) are:
Dodecatheon puchellum
Primula capitata
Primula florindae
Also been trying my hand at hybridizing with narcissus and helleborus. Have to wait until next year to see how that turns out.
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Here are some seeds that have started to germinate, first is Lillium Formosanum Pricei, can't remember where I got the seed from. The next one is narcissus Bulbocodium, these are rhs wisley seed, I was at wisley last spring for the cyclamen society show and they had a grassy bank full of these, a really beautiful site.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7640/16823551242_95e71477f5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rCD6Ej)Lillium Formosanum Pricei (https://flic.kr/p/rCD6Ej) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7628/16637100768_9a111502e9.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rmauqY)Narcissus Bulbocodium (https://flic.kr/p/rmauqY) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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Not wishing to cause any confusion regards germinating Trillium kurabayashii seed, but last year I mislaid a large amount of Trillium kurabayashii seed & months later(late September) I found the seed dried to a crisp. I scattered the seed on the garden, it germinated more or less straight away. A photo today of the seedlings emerging for the second time.
It would appear there are no hard & fast rules in nature.
That's amazing! The seedlings must have grown on late into the autumn, to have made these healthy looking mature leaves.
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That's amazing! The seedlings must have grown on late into the autumn, to have made these healthy looking mature leaves.
The first year leaves died over winter, the leaves in the photo appeared in the last couple of weeks.
Some leaves are even showing dark markings.
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It is interesting to read about T.kurabayashii!
These are T.chloropetalum rubrum, sown in the autumn 2013, first kept inside for two months, then cold rest of the winter, outside summer 2014 and cold until now when they started to germinate.
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Some seeds I have sown in 2014 did not germinate. Probably the needed a winter chill to tell them to do so.
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Ferraria ferrariola germinating after eighteen months in a pot that had been put to one side................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0598.jpg)
These Salvia urica seeds nearly caught me out as they were only sown four days ago.............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0597.jpg)
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Primula alpicola var. violacea from home-collected seed.
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Primula alpicola var. violacea from home-collected seed.
Hi Matt,
What is that stony looking stuff on the top of the soil. Have you had any problems with it going green or mouldy? :)
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Good luck with your blog, Lewis :)
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Hi Lewis, it's a silica sand/grit about 1-2mm in size. It use a fine covering for seeds that should be surface sown and need light to germinate or those that are very fine and would be lost under the usual 6mm grit. It's lightweight, allows light through, keeps moisture in but doesn't compact like regular sand might and remains free-flowing so seedlings can push up through it. What I have was originally used in an aquarium and it would probably be expensive to buy specifically for this purpose. I've not had any problems with algae etc growing on it, it seems to remain clean. I have mostly used it for seeds that are quick germinating (the Primula were sown mid Jan), but I also used it on my Hepatica that were sown in May 2014 and the grit has remained clean since then.
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Thanks Matt and Maggi. :)
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Thysanotus multiflorus.....................
[attachimg=1]
I've tried and failed with this before but when I saw that one of my favourite Australian sellers listing it I decided to try again. He recommended smoke treatment in the notes that he sent with the seeds. Not sure if that is the secret or that the seed is fresher but at least I have now germinated one. Two weeks after sowing.
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Just germinated recently is Acis autumnalis, I can't remember where I got the seeds from, but they have spent the winter outside in all weathers. Growing nicely now, it is a good job I put a lable in the pot as they look exactly like the narcissus Bulbocodium growing nearby.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/16767796849_583ede7dcc.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxHkPF)Acis autumnalis (https://flic.kr/p/rxHkPF) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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They are a bit wee to photograph but I have tiny seedlings of Streptocarpus pentherianus, a small white flowered Streptocarpus. The seed has been lurking in my fridge for at least 10 years so I was delighted to see them.
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They are a bit wee to photograph but I have tiny seedlings of Streptocarpus pentherianus, a small white flowered Streptocarpus. The seed has been lurking in my fridge for at least 10 years so I was delighted to see them.
That is interesting to hear as I have some five year old seed for Alsobia dianthiflora. Stored cool (but not in the fridge) I wonder if this may still be viable.
Eucomis comosa ..................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0611.jpg)
Not seeds germinating but related, here's a photo of some seven month old Eucomis "Sparkling Burgundy" babies from leaf cuttings...........
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0613.jpg)
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My usual weekend check of the seed pots finds a few more germinating now:
Drimia maritima, collected in Crete
Muscari sp. ex MESE240 from the SRGC Seed Ex. 2013/14
Scoliopus hallii from Growild
Primula ex x pubescens 'Christine', from home-collected seed sown in January '15, left outside then brought under cover a couple of weeks ago. The cotyledons are indeed pubescent. Will try to grow these on quickly, hopefully to flower next spring when I will undertake a rigorous cull to keep the best ones.
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That is interesting to hear as I have some five year old seed for Alsobia dianthiflora. Stored cool (but not in the fridge) I wonder if this may still be viable.
Certainly worth a try. I believe gesneriad seed does have a long viability. Surprising when they are so tiny.
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Certainly worth a try. I believe gesneriad seed does have a long viability. Surprising when they are so tiny.
At the time I had no idea that it was producing viable seed until I had (probably) hundreds of germinations on the bark that the orchid underneath it was growing in. So I collected some and sent some to San Diego and it germinated freely for that person.
I think that I'll toss it onto a pot with a Paphiopedilum growing in it and see what happens.
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Anigozanthos manglessii germinating freely after about ten days.............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_0619.jpg)
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I would like to share some things that made me really happy. Crocus banaticus from the seed exchange last winter! Yippee, hurray, fingers crossed, please survive!!! And some trilliums from purchased seeds from Gothenburg Botanical garden. The first pot germinated last year, way too many in one pot, but they managed to survive and are looking good. Lessons learned and last year I made sure there were no more than 16 seeds in one pot. So now I have 7 pots with trilliums.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
[attach=4]
Happy Easter, Wiveka
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Lots of new growth in seed pots,
Trillium rivale sown June 2014 now germinated,
Leptocodon gracilis,
Lewisia tweedyi,
Podophyllum emodi,
& Pulsatilla campanella showing seedlings that germinated late last year & others which have only just appeared.
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Lewisia rediviva this years seed from SRGC
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Corydalis nobilis from Gothenburg sown in March 2014
Onosma frutescens AGS seeds sown in January
Eranthis cilicica own seed sown ?June 2014
Geranium argenteum own seed sown November 2014
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Roma,
How do you buy seeds from Gothenburg? I looked on their website once for a seed list, but couldn't find any info.
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Carolyn,
I'd forgotten how I did it but checked last night. On the website go to Shop & Sales then click on Connoisseur Club. You can register there. The seed sales are closed for this year.
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Thanks, Roma, I'll try that for next year.
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I did not sow these myself, just nature going it's own way, but a nice patch of allium ursinum in the make :)
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Sweet pea seedlings just coming through, sowed in loo roll tubes, environmentally friendly or what ;D also I have learned a lesson this week, always keep seed pots for at least three years from sowing, I sowed some iris magnafica seeds about two years or so ago and I was just about to throw away the contents when I noticed this little seedling coming through.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7711/16604683534_940a9b693a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/riikV9)image (https://flic.kr/p/riikV9) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7658/17039334218_ba642ef732.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rXH3qs)image (https://flic.kr/p/rXH3qs) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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Knocked off work early today and it was still light when I got home! Amazing! I even found a few minutes to take some photos of the seed nursery.
Albuca namaquensis, thank you Anthony Darby.
Astragalaus coccineus, just one up so far but more should follow!
Canarina canariensis, the 3rd or 4th time I've tried this and finally success!
Cyrtanthus mackenii, again thank you Anthony.
Erigeron compactus
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more...
Eriogonum ovalifolium; very exciting!
Hippeastrum; seed from a friends garden
Lilium pardalinum; second season since sowing
Pancratium canariensis
Penstemon hallii
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and more...
Penstemon virens
Penstemon whippleanus; last time I grew this from seed it turned out to be an unknown species but NOT whippleanus
Agrostemma githago 'Ocean Pearl', pricked out and growing on in tubes
Sparaxis elegans; seed germinated last autumn and now they are back up and growing strong in their second season!
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Pinus sabiniana RMB339, from Robert in California, seed sown 4th December 2014. Malus sieversii, Zkogar Alatan, Kazakhstan, from Kurt Vickery, seed sown 13th November 2014.
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Pinus sabiniana RMB339, from Robert in California, seed sown 4th December 2014.
Ralph,
The Gray Pine seedlings look great! Be mindful about where you plant them. The cones on mature trees are large and heavy with pitch - something that you do not want falling on your head!
I have a hunch that they will need no irrigation ever in the U.K.
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Cardiocrinum cordatum sown two years ago is germinating now.
What should I do with them, when is the right time to prick them to separate pots or should I grow them together, and if, for how long?
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A few days away does wonders for germination. Although, I think it has more to do with me not checking the pots everyday!
Aster alpinus from Gothenburg seed.
I've shown these Hepatica nobilis from home grown seed before, but hadn't been expecting true leaves until next year, so these are a nice surprise.
Limonium companyonis from an Aussie friend.
Muscari leucostomum and Petrocoptis pryenaica glaucifolia from SRGC Seed Ex 2014/15.
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All from SRGC Seed Ex 2014/15 unless stated otherwise:
Allium acuminatum collected by Ron Ratko in the Cascade Mountains.
Bellevalia dubia ex JJA 227.702
Glaucidium palmatum from seeds I received at the SRGC Discussion Weekend last October
Narcissus bulbocodium pallidus from the Salmon, Bird & Lovell collection - BIG thank you to the donor for these ;D
Narcissus rupicola collected in Spain - I struggle to grow this species from bought bulbs, so I'm hoping seed raised plants will do better for me.
It's great to see so many seeds germinating, but I just hope I can move them all to the new house safely!
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Matt, you've got a lot happening in your seed nursery! Nice to see the little Limonium up. A question for you and other members here. Do you prick out seedlings earlier or later? I like to get them separated as early as possible and I find they resent disturbance far less when they are really tiny.
Here's a little video I made at the request of some friends on the Mediterranean garden society website, asking how I had such success raising perennials from seed.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dl86CWmQLPo
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Yes, busy times, Jamus!
Pricking out: anything bulbous/cormous/similar is left in the seed pot for at least 2 growing seasons with a monthly balanced feed at half strength. With other plants I use my judgement. The Campanula and Verbascum I show above will only be left until they are at a size that I can handle them reasonably easily and pricked out. As you say, small seedlings seem to move with less disturbance. The The Hepatica will stay in the pot for longer because there's enough space for them until next spring when they'll be separated out. The Glaucidium is said to resent disturbance, so it'll be a judgement call - early to avoid too much of a check or later when seedligns will be a bit bigger and more robust? Maybe just when I feel brave enough!
No matter when pricking out is done, there is never enough growing on space for all the plants raised!
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I've shown these Hepatica nobilis from home grown seed before, but hadn't been expecting true leaves until next year, so these are a nice surprise.
And now some of them are putting out a second true leaf. Hopeful that this is sign that these will be precocious plants and I won't have to wait too long for flowers.
Some more seeds germinating from the most recent SRGC Seed Exchange, 2014/15:
Cyclamen peloponnesiacum
Romulea bulbocodium leichtliniana
A number of Penstemon, including P. barrettiae and P. pinifolius
Finally, Allium forrestii from our friends at Growild Nursery.
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Good to see your photo's Matt of our seeds germinating (hope to send you some of that particular blue Allium this year ... didn't set seed from last :)
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Ah, thanks for remembering, Lisa. That would be most welcome. I have seeds of most of the small blue Chinese Alliums germinating and growing well here so you're 'A. sikkimense/yuanum(?)' would be an interesting addition. M
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I had googled Ramonda and got conflicting advice on growing from seed. Some said it was difficult and germination could take months from sowing. I took the advice on sterilizing the soil in the microwave. I also decided the seeds would be better watered from below. All the seeds were planted on 20.3.15 and all had germinated by 15.4.15. I am now faced with when to pot on. Having watched the excellent video of 'how to' I'm wondering if I should attempt to transplant singly or in small clumps as I would do with lobelia seedlings. Should I try to save all of them or just the strongest ones. There are many more than I anticipated.
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Ah, thanks for remembering, Lisa. That would be most welcome. I have seeds of most of the small blue Chinese Alliums germinating and growing well here so you're 'A. sikkimense/yuanum(?)' would be an interesting addition. M
Fingers crossed this year (the heads got broken off last year in gales before seed could set) if not I'll send a division in autumn.
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Well acclimatised to a windy climate then ;D thanks, Lisa.
Germinating here, Quercus coccifera from the upper parts of the Neokaria Gorge, Peloponnesus. Why, oh why? Not really a suitable plant for the Western Isles... ::)
Edit: spot the aphid - they've been terrible this year!
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Sown only a short time ago onto a dry potting mix, Albuca namaquensis is germinating here. Thanks Anthony!
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Some SRGC Seed Ex. sowings that I don't believe I've shown before:
Campanula barbata - received at the SRGC DWE last year, sown soon after when they promptly germinated, overwintered as tiny seedlings and finally putting on some reasonable growth.
Phemeranthus spp. - a mixture of P. calycinus, P. sediformis and P. teretifolius scattered in a trough in March 2015 and now germinating, but which species only time will tell.
Petrocoptis pyrenaica glaucifolia (pink) - sown 02 Mar 2015 and overdue for pricking/planting out.
Baptisia australis ex 'Purple Smoke' - sown 19 Jan 2015.
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Crocus goulimyi ex 'Mani White' - own collected seed sown on 29 May 2015, clearly keen to get growing!
Corylus avellana - collected from Abriachan woodland last autumn and giving 100% germination.
Primula x pubescens ex 'Christine' - own collected seed, which I have shown before as tiny seedlings but now making nice wee plants.
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I recently received some seeds from HansJ of Hippeastrum harrisonii, I looked on google on how to grow them having never grown these from seed before. Some say germinate them in tepid water, some on the surface of damp compost, I decided to try both methods. I checked on them every other day and watered or added water when needed. I checked again this evening and some of the seeds in the water have germinated while the ones on the compost have not done much at all. I might try the water meathod with other bulb seeds.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/444/20093856015_0c23ba19dd.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/wBCgkn)IMG_0474[1] (https://flic.kr/p/wBCgkn) by John Stephen Lavin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/20099282861_1753652235.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/wC75xF)IMG_0475[1] (https://flic.kr/p/wC75xF) by John Stephen Lavin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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I sent Thomas Huber some crocus pulchellus seeds and corms last year. He sent me a 'few' Cyclamen purpurascens seeds. I lost count about 280. I sowed them in a tray and left them in the cold frame. Less than 20 came up last year. I haven't counted them this year ;D
Arisaema nepenthoides sown in January this year germinating now
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Your purpurascens are looking really promising Roma.
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Latestart - I don't think anyone has answered your "should I try to save them all or just the strongest ones" query. If they were mine I'd save every one if possible. Ramondas are choice and precious and for many people, difficult if they have a dry or hot climate. If you have too many you can always take them to a sales table where I would image they'd be gratefully received. Any Ramonda is a GOOD Ramonda.
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I recently received some seeds from HansJ of Hippeastrum harrisonii, I looked on google on how to grow them having never grown these from seed before. Some say germinate them in tepid water, some on the surface of damp compost, I decided to try both methods. I checked on them every other day and watered or added water when needed. I checked again this evening and some of the seeds in the water have germinated while the ones on the compost have not done much at all. I might try the water meathod with other bulb seeds.
I tried them in the more traditional pot of cat litter ::)
They seem to be doing OK. There is usually a new one poking its head up most days at the moment.
They are stood in a couple of cm of water and held at around 25C.
The big leaf hanging over the pot is drosera adelae (Australian rainforest)
(http://hud357.homenet.org/orch/hip/seedlings.jpg)
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It is great to see that now seedlings from my seeds are growing all over the world ;D
Hans
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It is great to see that now seedlings from my seeds are growing all over the world ;D
Hans
I sowed them in my usual mixture of Growchar seed compost and perlite, watered them well and put them in a sealed plastic bag on a shady windowledge. Germinating now. I must confess when I received the seeds I wondered if they were viable - they're very flat, aren't they!
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Great Ralph :D
Hippeastrum seeds looks always same - similar like Zephyranthes ,Habranthus ...
Hans
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Good News now also from me :D :D
I have some seeds sown ( only for testing ) in my most succsessful method for Hippeastrum - today I could see also first germinatet seedlings ;D ;D
They are sown in pur Seramis - the pot is in a closed plastic bag ...thats works for me fine
Hans 8)
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SRGC Seeds / 3337 Primula secundiflora
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11796252_1690969947814151_6948073764948503590_n.jpg?oh=19bd3a4338555d28d68d65a8f1470061&oe=568378AC)
SRGC Seeds / 421 Aquilegia linifolia and 456 Aquilegia yabeana
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11822336_1690393161205163_1717724920838443858_n.jpg?oh=3087c0445446c100a2aa2021a5d29597&oe=565654D7)
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eriophyllum lanatum
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11800571_1690388471205632_4281649416837852470_n.jpg?oh=636aed63a2f08e6b1be16d71906be9c3&oe=56433211)
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Seed germination rate this year about 10%. This is average for many years. Perhaps just throwing the seed on the garden would improve things?
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Seed germination rate this year about 10%. This is average for many years. Perhaps just throwing the seed on the garden would improve things?
Hi Ian,
I've tried throwing seed directly into troughs and am pleased to find that most are germinating sooner or later. At least it avoids a few more seed pots hanging around for 2-3 years and I'm sure that most seeds sown in-situ will grow into a better plant than those disturbed by pricking out and potting on. Of course, you could sow in pots to start with and throw any ungerminated ones onto the garden as a mulch top dressing where they may still produce something.
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It is great to see that now seedlings from my seeds are growing all over the world ;D
Hans
Hippeastrum harrisonii seedlings doing very well.
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Crinum bulbispermum 'Jumbo Strain' seedling from PBS seed.
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First seedling of Galanthus regina-olgae from Roland :);
second seedling up on Arum creticum from SRGC 2013
cheers
fermi
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Of course, you could sow in pots to start with and throw any ungerminated ones onto the garden as a mulch top dressing where they may still produce something.
They can indeed Matt. Once years ago I threw out a pot of non germinated seed of Primula reidii - I think it was from Jack Drake. In the springtime I had a nice little batch come up under growing lettuces in the vegetable garden and of course, my once precious (now deceased) Ranunculus semiverticillatus from a John Watson collection, came up in the gravel by my driveway after having been thrown there because nothing had "coom oop."
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I mentioned a few days ago that I had a few second year seedlings from Anne Wright's "yellow" galanthus. Yesterday there were 8 new ones, after horrible frosts. We're having a couple of days with relatively mild weather and no frost at night then 3 or 4 with savage frost, sun to follow but still very cold. I think that must be all of Anne's seedlings, about 15 or so now.
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Lots happening in the nursery at the moment. Exciting times! Here are a few notable things, including Fritillarias which were sown 17 months ago! Nice to be rewarded finally with signs of life.
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and Lilium pardalinum. Lilium pumilum seed sown at the same time germinated much quicker.
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Nice to see the frit seedings finally rewarding your patience, Jamus.
Less patience required here with me:
Cyclamen intaminatum - my own seed sown on 29 May 2015, two up so far but about 40 seeds in this 9cm pot
Romulea tempskyana - from Oron and only sown on 09 July 2015 (R.linaresii graeca from same source/sowing date is also showing)
Albuca shawii and "Albuca shawii - yellow" - from the SRGC SeedEx this year, sown in January and both germinating within days of each other. Not sure what the difference is though, as I thought A. shawii was yellow?
Anemone sylvestris - don't think I've shown these before, also from SeedEx this year and making fine plants already.
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good to see your seedling Jamus and Mat I will have to start putting up pictures as well, lots happening here in New Zealand with many seeds germinating
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Maybe not germinating now, but some nice plants coming along.
1.) One of a few selected clonal forms of Arctostaphylos from an outing last fall. This one is most likely a natural hybrid - A. viscida x patula. Bright red new growth in the spring and a good plant habit. Ready for planting out and trial in the garden.
2.) Another from an outing, Ceanothus prostratus. There is color variation in the flowers from pale lavender-blue to deep lavender-blue. This clone is of the deep lavender-blue persuasion. This is not the easiest species to grow - we shall see how it preforms).
3.) Gentiana newberryi from seed. Maybe there will be flowers next year.
4.) Packera cana from seed. A high elevation species that seems like it will do well down here at the lower elevations. I like the silvery-gray foliage. This species has nice yellow flowers too.
5.) A batch of seedlings: Oreostemma (Aster) aligenus ssp. andersonii, Salvia sonomensis (I can not have too many of this species. The scented foliage is fantastic and it is 100% xeric), Mimulus aurantiacus (looking for color variation in the seedlings), and a Dianthus species of sorts.
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Never get tired of sowing seed and looking out for germination! This is really exciting - Pulsatilla rubra hispanica - fresh seed from Luc that he pictured in flower a while ago. Sown on 9/7/15.
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Great looking plants there, Robert. I think we could all learn to appreciate out native plants a bit better. They're ideally suited to our respective climates and most are beautiful in one way of another - it's a shame that familiarity breeds, if not contempt a degree of disdain.
Tim, that is an exciting picture! Just today I sowed some P. rubra seeds myself given to me by Susann. The pictures contained in her lecture of these plants growing in the wild were truly stunning. She told me that they are the most forgiving of the Pulsatillas and MAY stand a chance out here. Here's hoping!
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For those enjoying the pics of South African flowers which I've been posting - here is how most of them start!
These were all from Silverhill Seeds in 2014 and sown last August:
Moraea tulbaghensis
" gigandra
" herrei
Hesperantha oligantha.
Hopefully in a few years time I can post pics of these in flower,
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
Wonderful to see such a selection of South African seedlings. I have ordered from Silverhill seeds in the distant pass, i.e. before we needed an import permit. I was going to give up on the import permit, but I have change my mind and my updated permit is now on the way. ;D
Silverhill has a fantastic list. Thanks for the reminder! :)
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Don't you all love to see the little green bits pushing though the grit or gravel? What a powerful urge they all have to grow and become new plants. Sometimes I'm amazed at the dreadful conditions they overcome in the garden, to fulfil their destinies.
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Some more green bits pushing through - Cyclamen persicum var. autumnale sown on 09 July and giving a 100% germination rate. Thanks, Oron!
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Great looking plants there, Robert. I think we could all learn to appreciate out native plants a bit better. They're ideally suited to our respective climates and most are beautiful in one way of another - it's a shame that familiarity breeds, if not contempt a degree of disdain.
Tim, that is an exciting picture! Just today I sowed some P. rubra seeds myself given to me by Susann. The pictures contained in her lecture of these plants growing in the wild were truly stunning. She told me that they are the most forgiving of the Pulsatillas and MAY stand a chance out here. Here's hoping!
@Matt I agree. Potentilla erecta for example is very common, but also pretty and seems to stay reasonably compact. Also this year I had a plant of Sedum anglicum (struck from a cutting taken from a local boulder) that was completely white with flowers (see below, unfortunately taken well after the plant was past its best).
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Here are some seedlings I'm pretty excited about - Thermopsis barbata, from Bjornar's seed (trillium.no). The packet contained about 10 seeds and so far I've had 6 seedlings. One came up much earlier than the rest and is already planted out; the others germinated in the last 3 weeks or so. They seem to want to make quite a chunky taproot, so I have used relatively deep pots.
Now all I need to do is keep them going! Anyone else have experience with this plant? I gather it takes quite a while to flower.
[attachimg=1] [attachimg=2]
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I'd never had any luck with growing Anemone blanda from dry "bulbs" so opted for seed a couple of years ago. No germination! Until I noticed a leaf up the other day despite a thick cover of moss. On lifting the moss I discovered more germinating! It was a delicate operation to remove the top cover and re-gravel the pot,
cheers
fermi
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Congratulations with the Thermopsis barbata, Tristan_He!
I received that seed from Bjønar, also, but I didn't get to plant it yet. Being a member of the Fabaceae family, I was planning on nicking the seed prior to sowing. Did you do that? How long did it take for the first seed to emerge, and then the others? What temperature regime?
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Oooh, Thermopsis barbata!
I haven't gotten that one but did germinate Thermopsis smithiana this spring indoors, which I'd expect ought to be similar. After soaking overnight (not sure why I did that as I don't usually for Fabaceae, however, my notes say I did ???), then scarifying (which I pretty well always do for Fabaceae), they germinated after 6 days at room temperature. They grew pretty strongly, though they were etoliated under the lights indoors - however, I don't usually find that to be a problem, since once they are planted outdoors, they normally tighten up as new growth is produced.
After planting the three resulting seedlings out (didn't have many seeds to start with but didn't note the number), they looked okay for a while, then died. :P
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I gather it takes quite a while to flower.
Wasn't it Göteborg BG who flowered it last year? After a 10 year wait!
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Wasn't it Göteborg BG who flowered it last year? After a 10 year wait!
Erm!, I don't think I'll bother trying ;D
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Wasn't it Göteborg BG who flowered it last year? After a 10 year wait!
It flowered 2 years ago, 12 years after sowing: https://henrikzetterlund.wordpress.com/2013/07/06/tiden-gar-fort-nar-man-har-roligt/ (https://henrikzetterlund.wordpress.com/2013/07/06/tiden-gar-fort-nar-man-har-roligt/)
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Erm!, I don't think I'll bother trying ;D
Gardeners are optimists, David. Never stop sowing seeds!
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To be honest I didn't give the Thermopsis barbata any special treatment. Just sowed the seeds (which are reassuringly large and plump - think a fully engorged tick) on perlite in my usual seed mix and covered with more perlite. Then left them outdoors. No scarifying or soaking. I have been potting them up pretty soon after germination though into a John Innes No 2 with added grit, as they develop quite a large taproot. One is out on the rockery already.
They are quite a hairy, grey-leaved plant and I do not think they would do well indoors. We'll see how they do, perhaps they will like our cool, wet, windy climate (something has to!). Hopefully they won't rot in the winter.
Just hoping I can improve on Gothenburg BG's time to flowering though, 10 years is a long time...
Tristan
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Sure, hard seed coats will soften enough through time to allow germination when left outdoors in the rain and what not... that must be what happens in nature (plus sometimes some tumbling around that may help by abrading the seed coats, e.g. for desert species that depend on flash floods for germination). The benefit of scarifying pea seeds, to me, is to hasten germination from an indoor, winter planting, so that plants can be grown large enough to plant out in spring, not that it necessarily needs to be done. Just out of curiosity, how long did yours take to germinate?
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They were sown at the start of May. One came up fairly quickly (June? - I'm afraid I don't take notes); the others while we were on holiday, sometime in August. The seeds are so big that it's possible to repot germinated seedlings and then resow the rest. I don't generally sow alpines indoors - quite happy to leave outdoors in the elements and wait.
I really must make space for a cold frame though.
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A skunk over turned a pot full of dormant Delphinium hanseni seedlings last night. Generally I would replant them in the late winter - very early spring.
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They received zero water during the summer. Even the tiny roots are viable. Now that I am forced into action, I will plant some in the back of a dry bed (no summer irrigation), the remainder I will replant in a couple of 01 Gallon pots. Most likely they will all bloom next spring.
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Hippeastrum harrisonii seedlings doing very well.
Could you post an update?
Mine are doing OK but perhaps I need to change the media. Yours in August look like mine do now. What do I need to change?
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Don't know. They're growing in a mixture of GrowChar seed compost and perlite, in a ziplock bag with the top open, on a shady bedroom window ledge. Lots more similar germinating now as well, I'll take some photographs.
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It is great to see that now seedlings from my seeds are growing all over the world ;D
Hans
Thanks so much, Hans j. Hippeastrum harrisonii germination perfectly.
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Here are the Hippeastrum harrisonii seedlings now, still growing well. Also some seedlings from PBS seeds:
Hippeastrum Ex 'Charisma'
Hippeastrum Ex 'Fancy Red Garden Type'
Hippeastrum Ex 'Orange Tet'
Hippeastrum Ex 'Strong Red Form'
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Some more from PBS seeds:
Hippeastrum Ex 'Voodoo'
Hippeastrum stylosum
Hippeastrum puniceum
x Hippeastrelia
Crinum bulbispermum 'Jumbo Strain'
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Here are the Hippeastrum harrisonii seedlings now, still growing well.
Hmm... They look a lot bigger and healthier than mine. Time for a re-think.
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A few seedlings today ...
Asarum sieboldii 'Green Flowered Form'
Potentilla atrosanguinea ‘Chadwell’s Tibetan Velvet’
Asarum sown in March, Potentilla 2 weeks ago.
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Worsleya procera - the flotation method.
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No germinating seed, but rooted cuttings of Penstemon grinnellii aff. In general, Penstemon cuttings root extremely easily. What I am pleased about is getting a head start on seeing this species bloom - and then get a positive identification. I just planted seed from this accession a few days ago. Most likely the cuttings will flower a year ahead of the seedlings. But then maybe I will be able to return to Mono County when they are in bloom next year. :)
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A medley of Lupinus seedlings coming up: Lupinus lepidus var. lobbii, L. grayii, L. argenteus var. heteranthus, and L. albifrons. Also Lotus unifoliolatus var. unifoliolatus.
They were all seeded out on 7 October - One week and they are up. The little seedlings are very tough and will most likely need no protection from the cold this winter. I nicked all the Lupinus seed before planting. This gives me excellent results.
Having the Lotus seed germinate is a surprise. The seed is too tiny to nick, however they are coming up anyway. :)
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Germinating now – Trillium grandiflorum in moist storage. These are the most advanced, I am too happy about it because I am trying to keep the seeds available for sale as long as possible :'( A large part of T. grandiflorum seeds germinate like this every year, I don’t know if it’s just good germination genes or the norm.
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Chaenactis artemisiifolia is among my favorite California native annuals. Seed germination has been difficult for me. I generally only get a few seed to germinate out of 100's sown. This Southern California species is known to germinate well after fire. This year I am trying an experiment. One seed pan has no treatment at all. The second seed pan has been top dressed with fresh ash from burned dry grass and leaves. The last seed pan is sown with seed planted and then burned over with fire and then very carefully transfered to the seed pan using a spatula and then watered in.
Now I am hoping that one or all of these methods works out.
Any other suggestions?
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I haven't used smoke treatment for any seed-starting but here's an article on various methods that might be useful:
http://depts.washington.edu/propplnt/2003guidelines/group1/Smoke%20Infusion.htm (http://depts.washington.edu/propplnt/2003guidelines/group1/Smoke%20Infusion.htm)
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Lori,
Thank you so much for the information. I read the article and there is some excellent information that may prove to be useful. Fortunately, I still have seed to work with and can give things a try using some of the other techniques.
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Worsleya procera and Pamianthe peruviana.
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Germinating - Paris quadrifolia: seeds placed in moist vermiculite right after collecting from the garden. Seeds collected in the wild two years ago, allowed to dry for a couple of weeks, have undergone warm/cold/warm and probably will need one more cold cycle to germinate.
If someone is in love with Paris (the plant, that is :D I can send a few of the 'less' germinated seeds in vermiculite, but ask fast.
[attachimg=1]
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Hans j...
Well I didn't like the way the H. harrisonii had started looking lately so I decided to re-pot them and drop them back into the 'incubator' ...
(http://hud357.homenet.org/orch/hiphar.jpg)
I've got bulbs!
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I know, at this stage there is no difference between them and all of these were from the AGS 14/15 Exchange and were sown on 16 October 2015. Quick?
Dianthus anatolicus
D. amurensis ex 'Siberian Blue'
D. andrzejowskianus
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Notice of a new Seed Information Database
The SRGC now has a member-contributed seed/plant information database.
If you have made a donation to the SRGC Seed Exchange, please take a moment to share information about the species you've donated. And whether or not you've donated seed, share information about any worthy garden plant you grow or have grown, no matter how it was propagated.
You can read about it and take part here :
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13727.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13727.0)
The SRGC is grateful to Erik Fleischer in Canada for developing this system
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Narccissus serotinus and Narccissus cantabricus subsp. monophyllus has germinated over the past week.
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Sown when please Lewis?
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Sown when please Lewis?
Late July. I think, David. Ill check on the spreadsheet to be sure.
EDIT: I Knew I was wrong. The where sown on the 16th August 2015.
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About 2 weeks after exposing the seed pan to 6-8 hours of smoke in a smoker, I am getting good germination of Chaenactis artemisiifolia. The control (no smoke or any other treatment) has no germination.
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A flat of California native annuals. Layia gaillardioides, Deinandra corymbosa, Hemizonia congesta var. luzulifolia, Madia elegans, and Madia glomerata are showing the best germination. Gilia, Linanthus, and Cirsium will show themselves later. Later in the spring when the seedlings are larger I will pug them into blank spots in the garden where I will encourage them to naturalize.
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Acis rosea
Sowing: 14 Oct 2015
Germinating: 21 Nov 2015
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Allium, Ranunculus and Crocus are germinating in the greenhouse, the abnormal warm weather make them all germinate ahead of several weeks.
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Yann, do you surface sow your Crocus seed? All mine are sown halfway down the pot where the young seedling corms will be better protected from drying etc and germination is excellent.
Here are this weeks germinations from Crocus Group seed - always excellent results from CG seed.
Crocus goulimyi ex Harakas
Crocus goulimyi leucanthus SK91
Crocus niveus ex Areopolis
Crocus hadriaticus collected in the Pelops by Janis
Crocus pallasii collected on Samos, also by Janis - just one leaf tip showing, but the whole surface of the pot is heaving up from the seedlings that will soon burst through!!
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Yann, do you surface sow your Crocus seed? All mine are sown halfway down the pot where the young seedling corms will be better protected from drying etc and germination is excellent.
Here are this weeks germinations from Crocus Group seed - always excellent results from CG seed.
Crocus pallasii collected on Samos, also by Janis - just one leaf tip showing, but the whole surface of the pot is heaving up from the seedlings that will soon burst through!!
That is SO satisfying isn't it? And just what Ian shows in his latest video : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12953.msg345822#msg345822 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12953.msg345822#msg345822)
It's like you two are working in synch!
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Consider me the BD's apprentice ;)
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Matt, i sow the same way Iris, Juno, Crocus : 1.5cm from top, lay over 3-5mm fine grit and then 1cm of 6-7mm grit.
This year i sown all my bulbous species in a mix 50% seramis 30% sharp sand and 20% Loamy soil, covering the pot with pure seramis.
As you can see it works pretty well. The climate here is pretty wet during 7-8 months and i never had problem with bulbs dessiccation. All my pots are protected under glass panels and the rest is inside the greenhouse (Cretian and greek bulbous plants).
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Fritillaria pluriflora from Alplains seed, sown October 15th.
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Crocus asumaniae and Narcissus rupicola. Crocus sown in may and Narcissus sown in August.
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Germinated Trillium kurabayashii seeds with their hypocotyl, bulbous rhizome and root.
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I guess they were sown around a year ago Rick. I've requested T. kurabayashii from this years SRGC list. I have read that you should not let them dry out.
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I guess they were sown around a year ago Rick.
These are seed from this year's (2015) crop. The seed was collected as soon as ripe, moist packed and sent to me by a generous member of NARGS.
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Crocus pallasii collected on Samos, also by Janis - just one leaf tip showing, but the whole surface of the pot is heaving up from the seedlings that will soon burst through!!
Here is what emerged!
Also some new seedlings:
Crocuses from Marcus Harvey's 2014 collections and germinating well (another 'heaving' pot back left!)
Fritillaria sp. (F. obliqua and F. tuntasia here) from the SRGC Seed Exchange 2014/15, stored in a cool place over the summer and sown in October 2015
Fritillaria liliacea from the Frit Group Seed Ex.
Galanthus elwesii from Vojtech Holubec
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Update on Fritillaria pluriflora. I got the seed from Alplains in March 2015, stored them in the fridge, sowing them on October 15th. Photo from January 3rd.
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Galanthus elwesii from Vojtech Holubec
I have also this germinating now (pot is inside). :)
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My first seedlings this year - a bit too early to put up the light stand but they are very special for me.
Aristolochia steupii
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Helleborus purpurascens (wild coll.)
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Cold frame was flooded then frozen. The seed pots were not submerged but were sitting in water for a while. I had a proper look yesterday and found this pot of Geranium farreri. Looks like the slugs found it first. I hope at least a few survive.
I see Meconopsis prattii and M. rudis are also germinating. Silene hookeri ssp. bolanderii has also started and has joined Geranium farreri in the greenhouse where I hope they will be safe from slugs.
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That's the problem with mild weather - too many slugs and snails over -wintering- and hungry!
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Cold frame was flooded then frozen. The seed pots were not submerged but were sitting in water for a while. I had a proper look yesterday and found this pot of Geranium farreri. Looks like the slugs found it first. I hope at least a few survive.
I see Meconopsis prattii and M. rudis are also germinating. Silene hookeri ssp. bolanderii has also started and has joined Geranium farreri in the greenhouse where I hope they will be safe from slugs.
Sorry to see your little Geraniums devoured by slugs. My problems with the lights I use indoors are quite different, but sometimes the end results are similar :(
For now I can rejoice in watching a couple of Aristolochia sp. growing-up. Pure serepindity made it that I have them so it's even more exciting!
Aristolochia iberica
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Meconopsis baileyi - from Magnar Aspaker's seed.
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Narcissus cyclamineus collected from the garden. I love this little daff, and why it isn't much more widely grown is beyond me as it's quick and easy from seed. I have two forms of this species, which I call the 'Aberconwy' and the 'Crug' forms (after the nurseries I bought them from). The former is a good 2-3 weeks earlier in flower, has a more flared and slightly longer corolla, and seems to increase better for me.
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J'ai quelques pots de semi qui germent maintenant aussi
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Allium purpureum ; Semés en septembre 2015, ils ont commencé à germer 15 jours après sur plusieurs mois.
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Crocosmia ; Ils ont été semés dans la serre en automne. Ils ont germé rapidement. Certains ont eu trop froid avec la gelée dans la serre il y à 15 jours.
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Hyacinthus multiflora ; Germés dehors. Rentrés dans la serre aujourd'hui.
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Eremurus ; Germés dehors. Rentrés dans la serre aujourd'hui.
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Eucomis bicolore ; Ils ont été semés dans la serre en automne. Ils ont germé rapidement. Certains ont eu trop froid avec la gelée dans la serre il y à 15 jours.
I also have some seed pots germinating now
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Allium purpureum; Sown in September 2015, they began to germinate 15 days ago after several months.
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Crocosmia; They were sown in the greenhouse in the fall. They germinate quickly. Some were too cold with ice in the greenhouse there for 15 days.
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Hyacinthus multiflora; Sprouted out. Back in the greenhouse today.
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Eremurus; Sprouted out. Back in the greenhouse today.
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Eucomis bicolor; They were sown in the greenhouse in the fall. They germinate quickly. Some had too cold with ice in the greenhouse there for 15 days.
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Leucojum vernum ; Semés en septembre 2015. Ils ont germé au jardin. Je les ai rentrés aujourd'hui dans la serre.
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Muscari non identifiés ; J'ai récolté les graines sur plantes au jardin mais je n'ai pas noté le nom quand ils étaient fleuris. Semés en septembre 2015. Ils ont germé au jardin. Je les ai rentrés aujourd'hui dans la serre.
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Thulbagia violacea ; Semées en septembre 2015 dans la serre, elles ont germé très rapidement (15 jours)
[attach=4]
Tulipa d'origines botaniques non identifiées ; J'ai récolté les graines sur plantes au jardin mais je n'ai pas noté le nom quand ils étaient fleuris. Semés en septembre 2015. Ils ont germé au jardin. Je les ai rentrés aujourd'hui dans la serre.
Leucojum vernum; Sown in September 2015. They germinated in the garden. I have returned them today in the greenhouse.
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Muscari unidentified; I harvested the seeds of plants in the garden but I did not notice the name when they were flowering. Sown in September 2015. They germinated outside. I have returned them today to the greenhouse.
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Thulbagia violacea; Sown in September 2015 in the greenhouse, they germinated very quickly (15 days)
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Tulipa unidentified botanical origins; I harvested the seeds of plants in the garden but I did not notice the name when they were flowering. Sown in September 2015. They germinated in the garden. I have returned them today to the greenhouse.
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Pterocephalus pinardii ex Ala Dag/ Turkey,sown 2weeks ago
and placed in the open garden.
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This one is for Johnw - Podophyllum delavayi just starting to germinate :-*
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Actaea pachypoda fo. rubrocarpa
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Sanguisorba canadensis
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Hi Lesley,
Do you remember how you got your Gypsophila aretioides seed to germinate? Cold? Warm? Outside? Under grow lights?
Cheers,
Erik
Here are some germinating now but also including some which germinated several months ago (...) Gypsophila aretioides
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Pelargonium quinquelobatum from SRGC Seed Ex 2015/16 and germinating at room temperature within a week of sowing.
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A good start Matt, and improving light levels now should help them to grow on strongly.
To my eyes the flower colour of this species is very hard to describe (or photograph) accurately because it depends on the light and angle. It makes me wonder what the natural pollinator sees.
A nice plant though.
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Hi Lesley,
Do you remember how you got your Gypsophila aretioides seed to germinate? Cold? Warm? Outside? Under grow lights?
Cheers,
Erik
Erik - until Lesley will answer, you may want to know that last year G. imbricata (which also goes by G. aretioides var. imbricata) germinated very well in late spring after being outside under snow. I sowed somewhere in late January and I had the whole flat under snow until late spring (I am sure you remember last winter ;) It also put up a nice, compact growth throughout the summer.
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Capnoides sempervirens, the rock harlequin - exponential growing rate since last week:
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Clematis falciformis(?) - erratic germination.
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Barely showing up but exciting :)
Astragalus levieri
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Only checking the germination for fun - a bit too early to start them indoors. Seeds from a tree grown by Johnw, happily flowering in Halifax.
Maybe he would like to show the beautiful mother-tree :) There are chances to select an even hardier seedling from it.
Paulownia tomentosa var. coreana
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Calycanthus floridus with the distinct convoluted cotyledons -
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Gabriela - No doubt Paulownia tomentosa v. coreana will flower this spring. I say this as on Monday we tested the buds of the type, P. tomentosa, in Kentville, NS; these were selected for hardiness here and the seed came from trees in Niagara Falls, Ontario. Presumbly the ones here are hardier yet again. We cut buds on the three biggest trees. The one in the most protected spot and the one in the most exposed spot had no flower bud damage whatsoever. The big tree in between those two had all buds damaged at 0F. None have any wood damage, not even the stooled ones this year. Halifax and Annapolis Royal had much milder winters so var. coreana in those spots should be perfectly fine. Now if we can get through the next 20 days without a big temperature drop we should be off to the races.
Hopefully this year seed from these two hardy trees will cross and we'll have good seed uncontaminated by the tender tree.
john
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Calycanthus floridus with the distinct convoluted cotyledons -
The cotyledons are really beautiful coiled like this.
I just wanted to buy a specimen that I had spotted in a nursery near my home. These are interesting and even rare shrubs in our gardens in Belgium.
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Gabriela - No doubt Paulownia tomentosa v. coreana will flower this spring.
Hopefully this year seed from these two hardy trees will cross and we'll have good seed uncontaminated by the tender tree.
john
This is very encouraging to hear and it also shows, once again. how important the genetic is. I may be carried by enthusiasm but I believe is possible to select even hardier specimens in Paulownia. The fact that it grows so fast is certainly a big help!
I look fw to see it in flower!
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The cotyledons are really beautiful coiled like this.
I just wanted to buy a specimen that I had spotted in a nursery near my home. These are interesting and even rare shrubs in our gardens in Belgium.
Thank you Cfred - convoluted cotyledons are very rare and of course very attractive on the same time because of this :)
Calycanthus in general are beautiful small trees/shrubs and quite resilient to the growing conditions.
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I have a small question ... I have received in a lump of Corydalis a germinating seed. This looks like a germ Erythronium?
[attach=1]
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Fred, it looks very like an Erythronium seedling, nice to get surprises.
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Nice to have surprises like that, yes. I planted it in a pot in the greenhouse to protect it. See you in a few years to see how it's called.
[attach=1]
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Cfred, if you know where from the Corydalis seeds are (wild coll. or from a garden) you can take a guess at what Erythronium might be ;)
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Dear Gabriela,
Sure, I could ask what Erythronium grows around the tuft of Corydalis. I know they have in their garden. Good idea, Gabriela thank you.
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The first part of the alley where you park cars measure 30m long.
It was lined with Thuyas (I hate the Thuja) and all along I had planted simple Crocus vernus that come from the store.
[attach=1]
Gradually I cut Thuyas to replace them with species of shrubs / trees of our regions, better for wildlife, flora, ... more ecological.
[attach=2]
Last year, I collected all the seeds that I have on Crocus. It took me hours to sort the beans. I 400ml seeds. I certainly sown too tight. Here it comes out of the container. :-\ I had a heavy hand, 1cm thick seeds to 5 cm deep. ::)
[attach=3]
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The level of the substrate was originally like terrine of seedling just behind Tulipa.
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Last year, I collected all the seeds that I have on Crocus. It took me hours to sort the beans. I 400ml seeds. I certainly sown too tight. Here it comes out of the container. :-\ I had a heavy hand, 1cm thick seeds to 5 cm deep. ::)
You're funny Cfred :) I sowed in early spring my first Crocus banaticus - I want to naturalize in a meadow like planting. I hope my pots won't look like yours - I have a light hand ;D
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Last year, I collected all the seeds that I have on Crocus. It took me hours to sort the beans. I 400ml seeds. I certainly sown too tight. Here it comes out of the container. :-\ I had a heavy hand, 1cm thick seeds to 5 cm deep. ::)
That is a lot of Crocus seedlings! Luckily bulb seedlings don't mind some close company. A gentle watering will help settle the compost around the young plants. Be sure to keep them fed with a weak (half strength) balanced feed two or three times through the growing season.
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Latest from Travis Owen in his blog - Bulb Seedlings..... http://www.amateuranthecologist.com/2016/02/bulb-seedlings.html (http://www.amateuranthecologist.com/2016/02/bulb-seedlings.html)
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Some mediterranean annuals
Filago pygmaea (=Evax pygmaea)
[attach=1]
Bombycilaena erecta
[attach=2]
Trifolium hirtum
[attach=3]
Trifolium angustifolium
[attach=4]
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Other mediterranean annuals
Silene sericea
[attach=1]
Silene gallica
[attach=2]
Silene otites
[attach=3]
Vicia benghalensis
[attach=4]
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Geranium farreri showing the first true leaf now. I think they would have grown a lot faster if the cotyledons had not been eaten. Luckily the growing point was left intact.
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Geranium farreri showing the first true leaf now. I think they would have grown a lot faster if the cotyledons had not been eaten. Luckily the growing point was left intact.
A good lesson for keeping the post, even after a seeming disaster - while there is life, there is hope!
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Germinated last week actually; I start to get behind with the photo-record at this time:
Paronychia cephalotes – one month cold/moist followed by germination at room temperature.
[attach=1]
Hydrastis canadensis - exposed grown embryos/endosperm. Germination will start late March-April. An interesting species, belonging somewhere between Ranunculaceae and Berberidaceae.
[attach=2]
In regards with other discussions regarding collecting from the wild/habitat conservation - Hydrastis (goldenseal) problem was 'resolved' by placing it on CITES while the major problem, i.e. destruction of habitat continues. Thumb down for both US and Canada.
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I've shown these Hepatica babies a couple of times - when they germinated and later when some of them put out not just a first but also a second true leaf in their first year of growth. Home collected seed from cross pollinated plants of different colours, sown 18 May 2014, germinated 12 Feb 2015 and 18 healthy plantlets potted on today. I'm so pleased with them and can't wait for flowers! ;D
I may be chastised for repotting them at the wrong time, and I had meant to do it earlier in the year but was too busy. I thought better to do it now than leave it any longer in case they suffer and get held back. I was very careful to avoid any damage and am glad I did so as the 10cm square pot was packed with roots. They'll enjoy their own pots and will hopefully romp away some more.
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Congratulations Matt on your beautiful, healthy Hepatica 'big' babies :)
I found few of my 'prematures' today:
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Congratulations Matt on your beautiful, healthy Hepatica 'big' babies :)
I found few of my 'prematures' today:
Thanks, Gabriela.
Given that mine germinated on 12 Feb last year, your's are perfect in their timing and in a year they'll look like mine!
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I also have 'toddlers' Matt, but the newly born always take priority attention ;D
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2016 seedling photos, all at an advanced true leaf stage now, from my original posting at the NARGS forum:
https://www.nargs.org/comment/27343#comment-27343 (https://www.nargs.org/comment/27343#comment-27343)
https://www.nargs.org/comment/27344#comment-27344 (https://www.nargs.org/comment/27344#comment-27344)
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I cannot germinate seeds of Iris stolonifera. I give them a cold treatment (8-12 weeks) but, I waited 2 years (twice planting the seeds) and I get no germination whatsoever from a total of about 250 seeds.
Can somene help
George Papapolymerou
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I have attached a picture of seedling which I got as seed of Pulsatilla bungeana from SRGS this year.
Does it look right?
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2016 seedling photos, all at an advanced true leaf stage now, from my original posting at the NARGS forum:
https://www.nargs.org/comment/27343#comment-27343 (https://www.nargs.org/comment/27343#comment-27343)
https://www.nargs.org/comment/27344#comment-27344 (https://www.nargs.org/comment/27344#comment-27344)
Nice grown up seedlings. I try not to start that early without a greenhouse but here are a few with the true leaves. I hope for an early spring!
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I have attached a picture of seedling which I got as seed of Pulsatilla bungeana from SRGS this year.
Does it look right?
I grew other Pulsatilla spp. from seeds and the first leaves can be sometimes a bit out of character, but I don't know if that much.
Here's a link with it in wild habitat - Virtual Guide to Flora of Mongolia
http://greif.uni-greifswald.de/floragreif/?flora_search=Image&record_id=12666 (http://greif.uni-greifswald.de/floragreif/?flora_search=Image&record_id=12666)
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Linnaea borealis
Seeds from Gabriela ;) ;D
As i was late, I put the seeds in a zip bag with wet kitchen towel so that I can put them in the fridge during 2-3 months. As always, I keep the seeds at least 15 days before putting them in the fridge (to wake them up or if some of them want to germinate) and 6 of them germinated very quickly. Here's 3 of them, the fourth one has been chewed by a slug (so the blue pellets)
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Great discoveries are done usually by chance Yvain ;D It may be a warm germinator after all (tell the slugs to stay away, this is Russian Linnaea - there can be repercussions if they don't stop attacking the seedlings... :-X :)
I didn’t have enough seeds left to try both ways so my pot is outside, I’ll bring it in the house today. We need more seeds to test again!!!
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Genus/Species: Jeffersonia dubia
Seed Source: Yuzawa Engei, Japan
Seeds Sown: August 2015
Germination: First seeds germinated in late February and since then more seeds have germinated.
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Good germination of Trillium rivale this year.
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No shortage of seed to sow in the first place, eh. Michael? !
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Puya berteroniana germinated a while back but I've just got around to splitting them up and potting into their own pots. One of the five seedlings has already divided and produced an offset...............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2181.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2180_1.jpg)
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That's some beast ... no wonder you haven't done the crossword ::)
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That's some beast ... no wonder you haven't done the crossword ::)
Give it a few years and it will be a beast!
I've just received seed for Puya alpestris as well.
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P. berteroniana isn't quite as vicious as P. alpestris, but still worth keeping it well back from paths and ideally fenced off from children/pets/sheep.
Wonderful flowers though, well worth the wait (and the almost inevitable bloodshed) ;) ;D
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P. berteroniana isn't quite as vicious as P. alpestris, but still worth keeping it well back from paths and ideally fenced off from children/pets/sheep.
Wonderful flowers though, well worth the wait (and the almost inevitable bloodshed) ;) ;D
All of my Puya have had me already. I'm sure that they'll continue to do so as well especially as I pot them up (which is a really dangerous pastime) ;D
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All of my Puya have had me already. I'm sure that they'll continue to do so as well especially as I pot them up (which is a really dangerous pastime) ;D
Very nice seedlings; since they all look the same when very young I will show my Puya coerulea from another year with a warning - Puya beware!
Do not to make my mistake to prick out all Puya seedlings (unless you really have just a few). They were very cute, wild collected so I couldn’t stop…I cannot say how many pots I had, it would seem insane. The toughest plants ever….
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Few seedlings germinated outside and brought indoors last Friday before the new cold outburst.
The two Stylophorum sp. can be distinguished even at this early stage. There is one seedling of S. lasiocarpum with three cotyledons :)
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Allium cupuliferum
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[attach=1]
Erythronium revolutum, from own seed.
[attach=2]
Cremanthodium rhodocephalum, from SRGC seedex this year. The cat (which you can see a bit of in the photo) decided to see what I was doing when I was inspecting seed pots earlier in the year and knocked the pot over, so I had to scrape up the contents. It doesn't seem to have affected germination too badly.
[attach=3]
Viola calcarata, again from the seedex. Just potted on which is why some are a bit lopsided.
[attach=4]
Oxytropis campestris ssp. rishirensis.
[attach=5]
Primula secundiflora from the Meconopsis group exchange.
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Would be interested in people's opinion of this. It is supposed to be Edraianthus graminifolius, but I am a bit suspicious. Any thoughts?
[attachimg=1]
Update: after growing these on a little I am pretty sure they are forget-me-nots that had sown themselves into the compost. There are some smaller seedlings coming, so fingers crossed.
Another update: I threw some of these out on the assumption they were forget-me nots, but kept about 10 just in case. I'm now glad I did because after hardening off the seedlings have developed much narrower leaves that look convincingly like an Edraianthus. I will post photos when I get the chance.
[attachimg=2]
Yet another update: Here is a mature plant (not flowered yet). Definitely E. graminifolius! Just wished I had kept more. Ah well, live and learn..
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Very nice seedlings; since they all look the same when very young I will show my Puya coerulea from another year with a warning - Puya beware!
Do not to make my mistake to prick out all Puya seedlings (unless you really have just a few). They were very cute, wild collected so I couldn’t stop…I cannot say how many pots I had, it would seem insane. The toughest plants ever….
Fresh seed does have very high germination rates. I had just five Puya berteroniana seed and they all germinated.
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Would be interested in people's opinion of this. It is supposed to be Edraianthus graminifolius, but I am a bit suspicious. Any thoughts?
It may turn out to be an Edraianthus but I doubt graminifolius. I have leftover seed, you're welcome if you really want to grow it this year.
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The seedlings look very large for an Edraianthus Tristan, don't you think?
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The seedlings look very large for an Edraianthus Tristan, don't you think?
Not tried Edraianthus before Lesley, but Campanulaceae seed in general is pretty small, hence I was expecting smaller seedlings. I didn't have any seed compost left when I sowed this pot and so had to make do with some spent potting compost, refreshed with some perlite. Looks like there could have been something else in there (Silene nutans is a possibility).
We'll see - I've pricked a few out but I'm keeping the pot in case anything else emerges.
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Lilium splendens has started into growth, I recieved from the seedex last year a few bulbils, hopefully the others won't be far behind.
The old gardeners saying that you should keep your seed pots for at least three years has come true again, I sowed various seeds about three years back and some have just germinated, Narcissus nobilis and colchicum corsicus, three so far in the former and one in the latter.
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Stylophorum diphyllum from Gabriela, germinating in masses. :)
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This winter, in late December, I threw on the new web platform handles Lilium regale I had too. Letting the wind and weather take care they are placed in different locations. Here they are germinating.
[attach=1]
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Thank you Leena, I am glad few of them made it. Here's how true en masse germination looks. Already with the new leaves, and I got beyond pricking out at this point....
[attach=1]
For comparison - Stylophorum lasiocarpum with the true leaves. I understand sometimes they both are masquerading for Hylomecon.
[attach=2]
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Thank you Leena, I am glad few of them made it. ]
A few :o
I'm happy they made it even though they had started to germinate on transit from Canada.
The other seeds have not germinated yet, but there is plenty of time still.
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Diphyllum Stylophorum are related to Papaveraceae?
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Genus/species: Magnolia wilsonii
Seed source: kind member of this forum
Seeds sown: mid September 2015
Germination: early/mid April 2016
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It's great to see the results of folks endeavours .
Here's Helleborus vesicarius sown in Feb of this year just germinating .I suspect it will be a challenge in this cool moist garden to cultivate them successfully during their dormant summer period .....
I decided to sow a number of different Fritillaria seeds in Jan 2016 ,(couldn't be bothered keeping them in storage until early autumn as I mostly do). F.obliqua is currently at various stages of germination ,some of the radicles well advanced while other F. seed pots also have some activity.........
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Stylophorum diphyllum are related to Papaveraceae?
Yes Fred - see this www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2015Aug261440625534IRG_68.pdf (http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2015Aug261440625534IRG_68.pdf)
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Yes Fred - see this www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2015Aug261440625534IRG_68.pdf (http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2015Aug261440625534IRG_68.pdf)
Thank you Maggi. Actually, this year seeds are from Robert Pavlis garden.
ID left apart, another interesting fact about our wood poppy (S. diphyllum) is that it has disappeared from Ontario woodlands (supposedly). There is only one known wild population at present, which resides on a private property in London.
The disappearance is blamed by some on the habitat destruction, there has also been the speculation that it may have reached the limit of its hardiness (very unlikely). The debate is ongoing…
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Genus/species: Magnolia wilsonii
Seed source: kind member of this forum
Seeds sown: mid September 2015
Germination: early/mid April 2016
Me too! Sown 30/12/2015 after three months in the fridge.
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[attach=1]
Tulipa sprengeri, sown into the open garden last autumn.
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nothing special - ordered the same from the AGS and SRGC - hate to say this but the AGs seed has done best - which is not my normal experience
[attachimg=1]
these are in the tiffin containers we sometimes have at work from the local curry house - fine after they have been in the dishwasher
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So far my germination results are about the same as previous years, 10%.
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Lots of the winter sowed species are starting to germinate, somehow all at once, or to show up the first leaves - like Maianthemum.
Aconitum alboviolaceum
[attach=1]
Bupleurum longifolium ssp. aureum
[attach=2]
Primula ruprechtii
[attach=3]
Maianthemum stellatum
[attach=4]
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Time for more seedlings:
Delphinium fissum - (germination in the second year) a bit elongated, I didn't see right away that was starting to germinate.
[attach=1]
Potentilla divina
[attach=2]
Eremurus tianschanicus
[attach=3]
Paris quadrifolia
[attach=4]
Zigadenus elegans
[attach=5]
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Hepatica seedlings.
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Hepatica seedlings.
At what stage do you prick them out, Michael?
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Those that are overcrowded I will do in the next few days, the others will have to wait until next spring. It is better to leave them for one year in the seed pots but as you can see I have put too many seed in some of the pots and will have to prick them out now. Lack of space hinders my well meaning intentions sometimes. :)
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A great seed set can cause its own problems, for sure, eh? !!
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Some more snaps from the cold frame and conservatory. This is a really useful thread to check whether what you have coming up in pots corresponds with what you are expecting!
[attach=1]
Primula secundiflora
[attach=2]
Meconopsis baileyi
[attach=3]
Muscari azureum, from SRGC 2015-16 seedex. After reading some of the advice about sowing bulb seed in autumn I didn't think these would come up this spring but they have germinated very well (though not all the bulb seed has).
[attach=4]
Primula dickieana, again from the 2015-16 seedex. Really excited about these, I hope I can keep them going.
[attach=5]
Gentiana verna. I bought three plants from Pottertons last year and thought I had better grow some replacements as this is a short-lived species. Germination has been excellent, fingers crossed.
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Some more seedlings.
[attach=1]
Cremanthodium rhodocephalum, another exciting plant from the 2015-16 seedex now potted on. I have been keeping these on the wet side, as every photo in the wild I have seen of a Cremanthodium shows it growing with wet feet. One of the seedlings snapped as I tapped them out of the pot but it seems to be rerooting in the wet compost, perhaps they are tougher than they look.
[attach=2]
Meconopsis "regia" of hort - not the real thing but a hybrid. This was actually sown last year and grew slowly due to neglect on my part, but is now responding well to some TLC.
[attach=3]
Dianthus callizonus, from alpine-seeds.
[attach=4]
Oxytropis campestris subsp. rishirensis, also from alpine-seeds.
[attach=5]
Pedicularis 2 spp. mixed from trillium.no. It looks as if both species have germinated, I'll be interested to see what they look like.
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[attach=1]
Veratrum album, just germinating.
[attach=2]
Saxifraga sp. yellow from China, these are last year's seedlings again from trillium.no. I'll be really interested to see what these are, the photos of them in the wild look beautiful.
[attach=3]
Pulsatilla alpina. I was interested to read the thread on yellow-flowered Pulsatillas saying that they just produced the cotyledons in the first year, do all pasque flowers do this? Certainly no sign of a true leaf.
[attach=4]
Androsace vandelli. Possibly a little bit of growing before I walk off with a Farrer medal at the Exeter Show!
[attach=5]
Campanula barbata.
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[attach=1]
Primula sp., pink from trillium.no
[attach=2]
Gentiana terglouensis from alpine-seeds
[attach=3]
Linum sp - the bigger ones came up last year.
[attach=4]
Astrantia carniolica
[attach=5]
Aconitum lycoctonum
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[attach=1]
...and finally I have at last managed to get some hay-rattle (Rhinanthus minor) to come up in a couple of the meadow areas. I know this is supposed to be easy to establish but not for me it seems. Hopefully this will help to weaken the grasses and allow me to work on developing a more flower-rich meadow area. Now I just need to get some seed of Franz's Ornithogalum!
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You are having a lot of fun there Tristan, so many new seeds all at once. A great time for germination.
I'm very impressed by your Gentiana verna seedlings. I sow some of my own seed every year and though it germinates well, they stay tiny, even miniscule for ages and ages especially if they have little room around each seedling and ultimately are very difficult to handle safely, separating the little seedlings seeming to do bad damage to the very fine roots. I tend to sow them too thickly. Perhaps I should sow in three or four pots and much thinner.
The general rule here in the far south is sow the seed at any time up to April (October for you but I think earlier is better) and it will germinate in August/September, about mid spring. If sown later, say in the winter, it won't germinate until the following year and still at that same time.
It's true that many say G. verna is short-lived but my best are now 5 years old and still looking good, but as you say, sowing seed is a wise precaution and after all, one can't ever have enough of this little gentian. :)
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I am having fun Lesley - though I completely OD'd I'm afraid! I think I will be spending the next few years scratching my head over where to put the seedlings.
Re: G. verna - this is my first time attempting this from seed. I don't make notes but generally speaking I sow seed I collect from the garden as soon as it is ripe, so probably about July / August. They came up in the cold frame in something like January but I was a bit worried about leaving such small seedlings out at that time so brought them into the unheated conservatory. As you can see they are still pretty small but are making ok growth. We will see.
All the above notwithstanding, I've had other gentians that I have sown between December and February this year and most are up now (including the G. terglouensis I posted). You need sharp eyes though as the seedlings are tiny.
Gentians don't like root disturbance as a group I think. I'll play around with the approach to pricking out (singly / clumps / pot on) to see what works best.
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A bit of a long shot I know but I could use a bit of advice with these if anyone knows. This pot has/had Paulownia tomentosa seeds sown in it over the winter and was left (uncovered) in a sheltered spot.................
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2362.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2363.jpg)
If anyone is familiar with growing Paulownia from seed could you confirm that they are Paulownia seedlings. I would hate to nurturing a pot full of weeds! A big ask I know.
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Re Paulownia seed stuff .... here's a pic of the seed
[attachimg=1]
and this, from a blog from someone in the Fort McMurray (http://plant-zone.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/paulownia-tomentosa-seedlings-empress.html) area of Canada - where the dreadful fires have been - is a picture of seedlings ....
[attachimg=2]
and this site has handy pix of the stages of growth... http://dragontrees.com/ (http://dragontrees.com/)
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Re Paulownia seed stuff .... here's a pic of the seed
(Attachment Link)
and this, from a blog from someone in the Fort McMurray (http://plant-zone.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/paulownia-tomentosa-seedlings-empress.html) area of Canada - where the dreadful fires have been - is a picture of seedlings ....
(Attachment Link)
and this site has handy pix of the stages of growth... http://dragontrees.com/ (http://dragontrees.com/)
Thanks Maggi :) Encouraged by the photos and link I dug one of the seedlings out and looking at the seed case "attached" to it I appear that I have a veritable forest of Paulownia on my hands ;D
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Puzzling why someone in Ft. McMurray would be growing Paulownia unless a climatically-challenged Atlantic Canadian working out there. ;)
I love Dirr's comment on this tree -see attached. Some inland trees this year lost all buds at temps above -17c (0F), despite that it looks like other nearby trees will indeed flower this year and they are loaded with buds so expecting a spectacle. Winter of 2013/14 and 2014/15 we had a city low of -17c and var. coreana flowered fully, this year the low was -15 so we may see flowers on the straight species. Has a remarkable capacity to lift sidewalks and paving on our shallow soils. Great fun to grow.
john
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Puzzling why someone in Ft. McMurray would be growing Paulownia unless a climatically-challenged Atlantic Canadian working out there. ;)
I love Dirr's comment on this tree -see attached. Some inland trees this year lost all buds at temps above 0F, despite that it looks like other nearby trees will indeed flower this year and they are loaded with buds so expecting a spectacle. Winter of 2013/14 and 2014/15 we had a city low of -17c and var. coreana flowered fully, this year the low was -15 so we may see flowers on the straight species. Has a remarkable capacity to lift sidewalks and paving on our shallow soils. Great fun to grow.
john
Isn't 0°f really, really cold?
I'm going to try stooling a few to get the uber large leaves and plant one to grow without being messed with every spring.
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Isn't 0°f really, really cold?
I'm going to try stooling a few to get the uber large leaves and plant one to grow without being messed with every spring.
Well in Canada for a one time night low in winter it's pretty balmy for those west of us and that means almost to coastal BC where the winters improve. I remember being inland one winter and hopped into my car early in the morning at -30C - I'd never witnessed such temps before- and my tires had frozen flat on the down sides which made for an interesting ride the first kilometre. The snow actually squeaks under foot at those temps.
john
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Puzzling why someone in Ft. McMurray would be growing Paulownia unless a climatically-challenged Atlantic Canadian working out there. ;)
john
Here in zone 4 Minnesota, USA, Paulownia usually freezes to the ground every winter. But it spectacularly rebounds from soil level. It's not uncommon to get multiple stems with big leaves reaching 10-15ft by the end of the season. I know for folks in more southerly climes that's not such a big deal (everything seems to grow bigger in half the time), but for us in the cold north, it's pretty magical.
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Rick - Do you get dependable snow cover that protects the roots or is it indeed that root hardy?
I have even seen these stooled ones in Prince Edward Island which was a bit of a surprise.
john
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Rick - Do you get dependable snow cover that protects the roots or is it indeed that root hardy?
john
Well, before climate change snow cover was dependable, but not so much now: some years yes, some years no. Recovery was never a problem before, but honestly, I haven't kept track of any Paulownias in the last 8 years to really be able to estimate root hardiness. Our summers are a whole lot warmer than yours, and I would guess that would play a big role in this question, too.
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Here in zone 4 Minnesota, USA, Paulownia usually freezes to the ground every winter. But it spectacularly rebounds from soil level. It's not uncommon to get multiple stems with big leaves reaching 10-15ft by the end of the season. I know for folks in more southerly climes that's not such a big deal (everything seems to grow bigger in half the time), but for us in the cold north, it's pretty magical.
I've seen this in a city about half an hour from where I live (still zone 5). I will take a picture in late summer. It is indeed magical to see the tall stems and the gigantic leaves. Some years they are even forming flower buds, which of course then never amount to anything. I am curious to see what happened this year with the mild winter we had.
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Our summers are a whole lot warmer than yours, and I would guess that would play a big role in this question, too.
I think heat's a huge factor with the wood ripening properly, the lack here on the coast is problematic especially for the type. P. tomentosa 'Coreana' seems much better for us near the ocean.
The last big flowering of striaght tomentosa in the hotter Annapolis Valley was in 2012 but they've had lows close to -20c/-22c in 2013-2015 and lost all buds. Great seed set in 2012!
john
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When you consider the shear number of seeds in each pod all Paulownia needed for world domination was a better method of dispersal! This is the first time that I've had fresh seed (a whole pod) and germination rates are way over the top. I wish that I'd shared them now.
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Meanie, the seeds don't have to be really fresh. They germinate like cress - warm germinators and need light - see the link.
Those seedlings are from seeds from the "climatically-challenged Atlantic Canadian" John :) I was just checking them, I'll sow a fresh batch outside somewhere in June and see how they go. It can get pretty hot here in the summer.
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.570 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.570)
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Meanie, the seeds don't have to be really fresh. They germinate like cress - warm germinators and need light
Interesting. I've tried several times before and failed. This time the pod was given to me last summer but I forgot about it till December'ish. So they were sown and placed in a sheltered spot outdoors.
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Crocus cvijicil seed germinating, the seed came from Marcus.
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Vestia foetida.............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2391_1.jpg)
Abutilon hybrids............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2390_1.jpg)
Swainsona formosa seeds were soaked for 24 hours and then started germinating 24 hours later.............
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g430/longk48/DSC_2389.jpg)
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Exhibit 1: Consoilda ajacis (aka larkspur)
Exhibit 2: Delphinium brunonianum AGS seed exchange
Exhibit 3: Delphinium brunonianum Holubec seed
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Few seedlings images before more thunderstorms:
Jeffersonia diphylla
[attach=1]
Callirhoe digitata
[attach=2]
Gillenia trifoliata (syn. Porteranthus)
[attach=3]
Campanula cochleariifolia (AGS seedex)
[attach=4]
Geranium gymnocaulon
[attach=5]
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Few seedlings images before more thunderstorms:
Jeffersonia diphylla
Gabriella, when did you sow the J. diphylla? I sowed some fresh seeds last summer but they have not germinated yet. We did not have a very cold winter - just a few frosty nights, not much below 0C, I wonder of that is why the seeds failed to germinate? Unfortunately the parent plant - which I only bought last year, also failed to come up. It was planted in a woodland area with trilliums, erythroniums etc, so the right sort of habitat, I imagine. Looks as if I am destined not to be able to enjoy these beautiful flowers.
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Carolyn – I sowed Jeffersonia on 28 Nov.; after collecting, the seeds were kept in slightly moist vermiculite +/- outdoor temp., like I do with most early summer collections. I never have time to sow them right away and there are still overflow pots from spring to deal with.
With many NA spring flowering species, which have immature embryos when the seeds are ready, the problem is not the cold period that they receive, as the common belief goes. They require a certain pattern of warm/cold, and if it’s not appropriate, the embryos remain under-developed and will need another warm/cold period to grow and then germinate (keep your pot).
For Jeffersonia diphylla it has been found that the embryos need a period at about 28˚C in order to elongate and only afterwards a cold period (4˚C , fridge- like is enough). If they enter the cold period though before reaching a certain size, they will stop growing and need one more cycle warm/cold.
So, in some years the problem is a cold summer actually, which may be your case? And this applies not only to Jeffersonia.
On the contrary, for other species like Hepatica, summer temperatures over 25˚C, can induce the embryos to stagnate in growth.
Fascinating, isn’t it? Sorry I made the answer a bit too long. I hope I’ll have more seeds this year, and it seems warmth won’t be a problem here ;)
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Thanks Gabriella, I think you have found the answer. Last "summer" the temperature was about 14 - 16C on most days, and on only a very few days reached 20C. I think I'll put the seed pots in the greenhouse over the summer. Come to think of it, there were some pots of fresh trillium seed which I expected to germinate this spring, but they didn't - probably the cold summer too. I usually keep pots for several years anyway - have just had a nice germination of sanguinaria, sown 2010! And iris hookeriana, sown 2012.
Anyway, we have lovely warm sunshine here this weekend, which is lucky, as we have the garden open for charity. We had lots of visitors yesterday, just in time for the sumptuous meconopsis. There are some advantages to living in a cool damp place!
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A nice surprise yesterday when looking over my a bit neglected seedlings at this time - Trientalis borealis with what it seems like 100% germination.
From a batch of older seeds (2013) - my label says that I gave them a GA3 treatment at the end of January, and put them outside over the winter.
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Ophiopogon umbraticola
I only had nine fresh seeds to work with, so I remove the pericarp of four berries before planting (right pot), and left five intact (left pot). Since I am not sure if the species is winter hardy here, they went into the fridge Nov 17, and came out April 10, almost 4 months. The separated ones emerged in 15 days, the others are just now emerging, 46 days later.
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Here are some seeds that have started to germinate, first is Lillium Formosanum Pricei, can't remember where I got the seed from. The next one is narcissus Bulbocodium, these are rhs wisley seed, I was at wisley last spring for the cyclamen society show and they had a grassy bank full of these, a really beautiful site.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7640/16823551242_95e71477f5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rCD6Ej)Lillium Formosanum Pricei (https://flic.kr/p/rCD6Ej) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
I posted the above item in March last year, the other day I was checking over the L. formosanum pricei and I was surprised to see flower buds on all three plants that had germinated, is this species normally this fast to reach flowering size?
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7628/16637100768_9a111502e9.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rmauqY)Narcissus Bulbocodium (https://flic.kr/p/rmauqY) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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Hi John, yes I think this lily is well known for being very quick from seed. Unfortunately I think it is rather virus prone so it is best to resow regularly so you always have fresh stock.
Best, Tristan
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Cheers Tristan for the information, I'll make sure I collect some seed. Good luck for Wales tomorrow.
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Seeds of Spergularia rubra collected last September
(https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/l/t1.0-9/r90/13336067_1811272829117195_579856524028503663_n.jpg?oh=e874b802e18823b6bc8dccef075f42a5&oe=57D49FB5)
Semiaquilegia ecalcarata
(https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13344494_1811270652450746_1167241931671716013_n.jpg?oh=62d5b21d30d0058dde3f62bc79f312ed&oe=57CDFBE9)
Gernanium species
(https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13315814_1811270672450744_4461293555290941695_n.jpg?oh=4f96ff16ead57a582d42353ad9d0a259&oe=57DA7AEC)
Unknown
(https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13406963_1811270665784078_4163660247081620940_n.jpg?oh=c07be0be0874a7f4c3609f657470f14f&oe=57C30EC1)
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Here are some seedlings I'm pretty excited about - Thermopsis barbata, from Bjornar's seed (trillium.no).
[attachimg=1]
An update on this one. I was convinced they had all rotted off over winter, but all have emerged now - very late, one is still only just above ground. They are still very small, but still alive at least. I've now planted them all out where they will hopefully establish. Not expecting flowers anytime soon though!
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I kept a small sample of Symplocarpus seeds to check on germination – found them like this on Tuesday. They must have started to germinate in somewhere in late May.
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They look crunchable. ;D
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I kept a small sample of Symplocarpus seeds to check on germination – found them like this on Tuesday. They must have started to germinate in somewhere in late May.
Gabriela, what do you do with all those geminating seeds :)
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They look crunchable. ;D
Yes Lesley, crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside :) They have a large, white & moist endosperm (I also sliced a few in half but I won't show here my seed 'abuse').
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Gabriela, what do you do with all those geminating seeds :)
Regarding Symplocarpus Trond, I only have 8 seedlings and they already have a place where to grow big and healthy :)
In general, species that require moist storage I only collect in slightly larger quantities only if someone pre-orders, so it's not that much left. Of course, it happens that seeds germinate and then I keep some for my garden since I have more space now, some are shared with friends and/or donated to Ontario Rock garden society plant sales.
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Erysimum allionii from Kristl at Gardens North; sown 29-05-2016 and first germinations - 14 of the 12 seeds sown! Amazing ;D
cheers
fermi
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Calochortus obispoensis from SRGC Seedex 2015 sown 21-05-2016 and first germinations found today
cheers
fermi
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It pays to check old seed-pots regularly; this Alstroemeria pulchra ssp pulchra was sown in 2013.
It appears a bit etiolated as it was under cover until I found it last week!
cheers
fermi
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Scilla peruviana alba sown back in April 2016 are up ...
Various Fritillaria seed sown 'out of time' back in Jan and Feb 2016 continue to germinate . As expected a small number of seeds in each pot have rotted because of the early sowing however I'm more than happy with the current success from F. agrestis , F. michalovskyi , F. monantha and F. stenanthera .......
As well as F. gussichiae which are a bit further advanced ,with some cotyledons showing , than F. tubiformis which is forming a radicle.
Cheers Dave.
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Pinus longaeva , the Great Basin Bristlecone Pine , is a long-living species of tree found in the higher mountains of the southwest United States . The species is one of three closely related trees known as bristlecone pines and is sometimes known as the Intermountain or Western bristlecone pine . One member of this species, known as Methuselah , is thought to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on Earth .
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Pinus longaeva , the Great Basin Bristlecone Pine , is a long-living species of tree found in the higher mountains of the southwest United States . The species is one of three closely related trees known as bristlecone pines and is sometimes known as the Intermountain or Western bristlecone pine . One member of this species, known as Methuselah , is thought to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on Earth .
Interesting pine, I google about it - a good name for it.
Something with extremely long lived seeds this time - Nelumbo lutea, the American lotus. I suppose I should plant them in a pot with muddy mixture now? I never grown a lotus before.
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Pinus longaeva , the Great Basin Bristlecone Pine , is a long-living species of tree found in the higher mountains of the southwest United States . The species is one of three closely related trees known as bristlecone pines and is sometimes known as the Intermountain or Western bristlecone pine . One member of this species, known as Methuselah , is thought to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on Earth .
Be interesting to see what it looks like in 30 years time Ralph? :P
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Be interesting to see what it looks like in 30 years time Ralph? :P
Or 300!
;D
cheers
fermi
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I put order today in all my sowings and found the first Castilleja coccinea seedlings. I don't know why so late, weird season. The grass seedlings belong to Schizachyrium; they were sown together in the same pot.
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A few more germinations of SRGC 2015 Seedex seeds sown on 21-05-2016:
Bellevalia hyacinthoides
Babiana tubulosa
Moraea lurida
cheers
fermi
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Not sown by me:
1) Zauschneria seedlings show why it's been lumped into Epilobium!
2) Oxalis coming up in neighbouring pots!
cheers
fermi
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Not sure if these are what's on the labels as some seeds get cast into other pots!
Moraea unguiculata (Silverhill Seeds, RSA) sown 16-08-2014,
Narcissus ex Oidle Loidle (one of Lawrence Trevanion's "Baby Talk" seriesof hoop petticoat hybrids) sown 15-10-2015
cheers
fermi
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Some more of this year's sowings:
SRGC 2015 Lapeirousia anceps
SRGC 2015 Crocus cartwrightianus ex 'Halloween'
NARGS 2016 Lachenalia pusilla
cheers
fermi
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Some (well grown) seedlings from my spring sowings, including from SRGC Seed Ex 2015-16.
First up was received as Primula geraniifolia and sown on 05 Feb 2016, but is clearly a Lewisia, L.brachycalyx I think?
Primula magellanica (I hope) and Limonium minutum - sown 05 Feb 2016
Saxifraga ex Tumbling Waters seed from a plant I gave to my mum, sown 20 Oct 2015.
Cyclamen colchicum from Cyclamen Society seed - 7 seeds sown 17 Oct 2015 and 6 germinated Jun/Jul 2016.
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Some (well grown) seedlings from my spring sowings, including from SRGC Seed Ex 2015-16.
First up was received as Primula geraniifolia and sown on 05 Feb 2016, but is clearly a Lewisia, L.brachycalyx I think?
Primula magellanica (I hope) and Limonium minutum - sown 05 Feb 2016
Saxifraga ex Tumbling Waters seed from a plant I gave to my mum, sown 20 Oct 2015.
Cyclamen colchicum from Cyclamen Society seed - 7 seeds sown 17 Oct 2015 and 6 germinated Jun/Jul 2016.
Primula looking good Matt, very envious 8) . Also the crocus you sent have arrived and have been planted. A quick question though I have some cyclamen seedlings, was pondering about how and when to pot them on and if they require anything specific, good drainage I hear is key. Be awesome to know what you do because the seedlings you have there certainly look healty. Thanks Lewis
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Primula looking good Matt, very envious 8) . Also the crocus you sent have arrived and have been planted. A quick question though I have some cyclamen seedlings, was pondering about how and when to pot them on and if they require anything specific, good drainage I hear is key. Be awesome to know what you do because the seedlings you have there certainly look healty. Thanks Lewis
Hi Lewis. I'm glad the Crocus arrived safely. One at least should be flowering size, so hopefully they'll do something for you this year.
In my experience most Cyclamen are pretty trouble free with a moist but free draining compost. I think with seedlings it pays to keep them growing for as long as you can, which allows them to build up a good sized tuber - this means not letting them get too warm or too dry, which will encourage dormancy. I find that many seedlings will keep growing all summer long if they're kept cool and watered. Regular feeding also helps - I use a half strength balanced feed once a month when in growth.
In terms of potting them on, I would not be in a rush to do this unless they were very crowded, as they seem to like a bit of company when small. Potting on is best done when they are dormant, you could do this in their first summer but when they go dormant in their second summer might be best (remember to feed). If you have a potful of very young but crowded seedlings you could just pot on the whole pot into one that is a bit larger.
Good luck.
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I also tend to leave Cyclamen seedlings in their sowing pot until their 2nd season. They're so small to handle in the first year. If it's my own seed, say of C. coum and in a large number, I just divide the mass into 3 or 4 and put them back in larger pots. In other words, just what you would do Matt.
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A couple more new germinations:
Alstroemeria pseudospathulata, SRGC 2015 sown 21-05-2016
Iris pumila, Ashley Allshire, sown 4-05-2009! It pays to be patient - I try to keep any iris seed-pots in the hope of delayed germinations like these,
cheers
fermi
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Good going Fermi. I've had oncos germinate after 8+ years. Just as well life is long ;) ;D
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Ok. Thanks for the advice Leslie and Matt. :)
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Having said all that... Today I tipped the grit off these Cyclamen mirabile seedlings sown on 28 Aug last year to see how they were doing. These are in a 7cm pot and most are 1cm diameter. They are big enough to prick out now 12 months after sowing. Always use your best judgement.
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This pot was in a tray under another one! Just as well I check them ...occasionally ;)
Geissorhiza ovata from Silverhill Seeds sown 16-08-2014
cheers
fermi
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Having said all that... Today I tipped the grit off these Cyclamen mirabile seedlings sown on 28 Aug last year to see how they were doing. These are in a 7cm pot and most are 1cm diameter. They are big enough to prick out now 12 months after sowing. Always use your best judgement.
I agree with you Matt there, but I wouldn't be "pricking" these out as I would say primulas or small iris seedlings where there is space between them. These will already have good active root systems at their age and size. I'd tip out the pot and separate each one off carefully. If there is more seed left in the pot this can be sprinkled on a new pot or on the newly potted little seedlings and will most likely come through in due course.
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Locoweeds & Bladderpods.
Earlier this year I ordered 19 packets of seed from Alplains. These were: Astragalus (10), Oxytropis (5) and Physaria (4).
They arrived in a Bubble Mailer on 8th June, and a few weeks later were all sown in 9mm pots in a compost mix as
recommended by Ian Christie. I stratified and scarified where advised.
There was an abundance of seed in every packet and I sowed less than half of each in all 19 pots.
Now! . . A question, if I don’t get good results with this batch of sowing, when is the optimum time to sow the others?
In the past I have sown seed of Penstemon, Eriogonum and Collomia (from RMRP) which I forgot I had! Two years later I came across them and got good results from sowing them.
Please take a look at the Physaria alpina seedlings — can these now be carefully pricked out, or should I let them grow a bit more? ;D
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As a general rule, I tend to avoid pricking out seedlings after July. They will be safer undisturbed in the seedling pot until spring. If the seedlings grow a lot in the next few weeks you could always pot on the whole potful.
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As a general rule, I tend to avoid pricking out seedlings after July. They will be safer undisturbed in the seedling pot until spring. If the seedlings grow a lot in the next few weeks you could always pot on the whole potful.
Thanks Carolyn, I will heed your good advice. :)
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I agree with you Matt there, but I wouldn't be "pricking" these out as I would say primulas or small iris seedlings where there is space between them. These will already have good active root systems at their age and size. I'd tip out the pot and separate each one off carefully. If there is more seed left in the pot this can be sprinkled on a new pot or on the newly potted little seedlings and will most likely come through in due course.
Agree with you there Lesley. "Pricking out" was my lazy way of saying tip out, gently tease apart and carefully repot singly. I got the wrong balance between efficiency and specificity. In actual fact I'm running out of time for repotting so I'll be leaving these seedlings together for another year and will be sure to give them a bigger pit and gentle feeds before separating them next year. I'm convinced young Cyclamen like company. The same will have to apply to all my bulb seedlings, as I already have 2nd and 3rd year seedlings (Crocus, Romulea etc) in growth. Some many pots, so little time! ::)
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NARGS 2016 Lachenalia pusilla
The seedlings are a bit more obvious now ;D
cheers
fermi
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"Pricking out" was my lazy way of saying tip out, gently tease apart and carefully repot singly.
Matt / Lesley, if this isn't pricking out, what is? Clearly I've been doing something wrong for years! :-[
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I think some folk consider 'pricking out' to be a method of using a dibber to root around in a potful of seedlings to extract one from the mass for potting up. You'll often see this demonstrated on TV gardening programmes. You could get away with this for resilient veg and annual flower seedlings maybe that are cheap and easy. I don't even own a dibber, never mind let one near my seedlings (other than at the allotment, where a pencil is pressed into service).
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Muscari mirum sown 29-05-16; first seedling: 5-08-16; 9 by today;
Arum dioscoridis cyprium sn 21-05-16; first seedling: 28-08-16; 3 by today;
cheers
fermi
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Cyclamen rohlfsianum ex CSE, seeds from Oron Peri sown on 24 Jun. I'd always told myself I'd not grow this species because it's frost tender but I love the leaves. All the Cyclamen seeds I've had from Oron have given excellent germination.
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I have today just harvested a good crop of Gentiana saxosa seed.
Can someone please advise when best to sow these and in what compost mix?
Will the seed benefit from freezing?
Any other tips or advice will be most welcome. ;D
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Our friends in the Ontario RGC have this advice in their seed pages .... "Sow @ 20°C for 6 weeks, then place @ 4°C for 6 weeks, then slowly raise temperature to 10°C for 6 weeks. If there is no germination, repeat the cycle. This mimics fall sowing outdoors for spring germination. Germination is improved by using GA3. Special Care: avoid pricking out individually, transplant seedlings in clumps "
- from
http://www.onrockgarden.com/germination-guide/gentiana-saxosa (http://www.onrockgarden.com/germination-guide/gentiana-saxosa)
While others suggest autumn sowing for cold stratification - which suggest "regular" seed treatment for most of us in the UK - you pays your money..... and you takes your choice! :-\
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Maggi.
I have ordered 5 grams of Gibberellic Acid—GA3 from ebay for £12.00 + £2.50 postage.
I have never tried this before but I believe there is much information to get me started.
I will try and keep my progress and results posted here.
Many thanks for your help. :)
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very nice the Cyclamen rohlfsianum, Matt!!
Where do you find the seedlist in the Internet from Oron P. ?
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You can find it in the forum,Thomas...... search "Seeds of Peace" - latest list is here http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12097.msg359760#msg359760 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12097.msg359760#msg359760)
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very nice the Cyclamen rohlfsianum, Matt!!
Where do you find the seedlist in the Internet from Oron P. ?
The leaves of the adult plants are quite different to all other Cyclamen. Even these seed leaves are different, with their strongly toothed margins.
Maggi has directed you to the seed list. Once you're on Oron's mailing list he'll send these to you directly. There's always something to tempt you.
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Thank you Maggi an Matt!
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I have grown Prosartes maculata (Disporum maculatum) for many years but it does not multiply. It is still the same size as when I first planted it.
(Image 1.)
Three years ago I sowed some seed from it without any noticeable result whatsoever. Today I finally decided to tip out the content of the pot and found that something had happened under the surface. (Image 2.)
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I think some folk consider 'pricking out' to be a method of using a dibber to root around in a potful of seedlings to extract one from the mass for potting up. You'll often see this demonstrated on TV gardening programmes. You could get away with this for resilient veg and annual flower seedlings maybe that are cheap and easy. I don't even own a dibber, never mind let one near my seedlings (other than at the allotment, where a pencil is pressed into service).
Ah, ok Matt. I might own a dibber, but it doesn't get used often!
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I have grown Prosartes maculata (Disporum maculatum) for many years but it does not multiply. It is still the same size as when I first planted it.
(Image 1.)
Three years ago I sowed some seed from it without any noticeable result whatsoever. Today I finally decided to tip out the content of the pot and found that something had happened under the surface. (Image 2.)
One that is waiting for Gunilla! I don't have this Prosartes, although NA not easy to find it; such a beautiful plant.
It is extremely interesting how these two steps germinators remain attached to the seed for such a long time. Polygonatum, Maianthemums, Uvularia behave the same, probably 'feeding' on the last drops of food from the endosperm.
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A couple more of the recent germinations:
Triteleia dudleyi SRGC Seedex 2015 sown 21-05-16
Narcissus hedraeanthus GTG sown at the same time
cheers
fermi
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Three weeks ago, I planted the seeds of my Allium ampeloprasum. Seeds germinate already
[attachimg=1]
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Campanula thessala, NZAGS 2012 sown 18-10-13;
as it was sown 3 years ago, I hope these aren't weeds!
cheers
fermi
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Iris grossheimii KV465
Iris paradoxa atrata KV482
Seeds from: Kurt Vickery Monocot seed list August 2015- update November
Sowing: Dec. 2015
Germinating: Oct. 2016
Pictures taken: 29 Oct. 2016
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Some way past the 'germinating now' stage, but these were both grown from seed sown this year: Meconopsis baileyi and Primula secundiflora. Hoping for flowers next May.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
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Some very healthy looking seedlings Tristan!
While arranging my seedlings/sowings for the wintering, I found the Iris brandzae (or I. sintenisii ssp. brandzae) germinated! Iris is not something I usually grow from seeds but nostalgia hit me last year and I bought wild coll. seeds from Vlastimil Pilous :)
I don't know if that's how the seedlings should look in late fall, hope it makes it through the winter.
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Daubenya marginata, seed from Oron Peri sown on 10 Sep 2016.
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Matt, my daubenia from Oron is also geminating now. Do you have a particular plan for Not Killing It? I'm assuming even as a seedling it'll want to be baking dry in summer.
Jan
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Hi Jan, I have D. aurea seedlings now entering their third year with me. I treat them just the same as all my winter growing bulbs. They are kept under cover and dry in the summer, but not given a hot baking as it just doesn't get that hot here. These D. marginata will receive the same treatment. Generally seedling bulbs are more tolerant and some may even prefer a hint of moisture to prevent them desiccating during dormancy. Be sure to feed them occasionally, I use a balanced feed at half strength once a month when growing.
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Narcissus deficiens germinated well! These are three months old:
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Iris iberica
Sowing 13/Dec/2015
Germinating 22/Oct/2016
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This is the time I place all moist stored seeds in cold storage and sometimes there are surprises. A good example for how seed maturation time influences the germination pattern -
Stylophorum lasiocarpum seeds coll. in October have germinated fast at room temperature, without a cold period. Seeds coll. in the summer and kept moist at warm/then cold, will start to germinate somewhere in February (it applies for Stylophorum, Hylomecon and other Papaveraceae).
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This summer I received seed from Oron Peri's Seeds of Peace. The germination has been great. I really wasn't expecting to see seedlings until spring but they're here now. I can highly recommend his seed. Now to not kill them......
[attach=1]
Jan
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Jan, I wouldn't fault what Matt says about seedlings of Daubneya aurea or others but I would be uneasy about "baking dry" just about any bulb seedlings in their first dormancy. While they are so tiny most bulbs just don't have the energy to cope with extreme drying. In my experience even onco irises don't like full drying off so early. I don't water such material but I do permit whatever rain there is to fall on them and also keep them shaded if they are dry rather than risk dehydration. Every climate is different of course so different conditions apply and we here in NZ get pretty dry and warm in summer.
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Jan,
Lesley has sound advice!
Here in the hot interior of California I do "bake dry" seedling of many bulb species. Of coarse they are kept shaded and as cool as possible. Cool might not be considered cool when it is 40 C. Calochortus, the Themidaceae, and many other summer dormant bulbs thrive for us. There are species that are tricky, such as Lilium washingtonianum - the bulbs like to be dry during the summer, however the roots cannot dry out. One method does not fit all. If possible, understanding their natural growing conditions can be helpful.
I would be inclined to consider Lesley's advice, however there are wide parameters that can still be workable. For me, some first year seedlings of Lachenelia just survived a whole summer of soaking only to start into growth this autumn. I am lucky that they did not rot while dormant, however they are thriving now.
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One seedling germinated this week:
Erinacea anthyllis AGS Seedex 2016 sown 25-09-16
cheers
fermi
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Campanula thessala, NZAGS 2012 sown 18-10-13;
as it was sown 3 years ago, I hope these aren't weeds!
They at least appear to be campanulas! Should I have separated them earlier?
cheers
fermi
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Today, in the framework of outdoor seeding.
1) Seeds from Tulipa sylvestris.
[attach=1]
And also in the pots placed in the cold greenhouse
2) Seeds from Narcissus romieuxii
[attach=2]
3) Seeds from Narcissus cantabricus
[attach=3]
The Tulipa were sown on the surface, under a few millimeters of gravel. The Narcissus half-way into the pots.
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Fred,
When did you sow tulipa sylvestris? I must go and look for mine when it is daylight.
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Hi Carolyn. All of these seedlings, including Tulipa, were planted in the first week of September.
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I couldn't find mine, then realised that was because I hadn't sown them yet! I have found the seed packet and the seeds are now sown. Thanks for reminding me, Fred.
When do the rest of you sow tulip seeds? I don't have much experience with tulips from seed. If I planted them in September and they germinated in December, I would worry about protecting them from frost - I don't heat my greenhouse any more, so the only protection is a bit of horticultural fleece. I would be interested in what other people do.
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some seedlings
Anemone heldreichii, from fresh cretan seeds
Iris pamphyllica, the spikes are funny, after 2 years the rhizoms lenght is 1.5-3cms
Helleborus torquatus, the pots were frozen
Crocus armeniacum, seeds offered by Janis
Delphinium semibarbatum, a fast grower, easy in the garden
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What a joyful sight all these fresh seedlings! :)
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A real joy to see the Iris Yann. Hopefully you will be able to show it yearly until it flowers. I've only every seen photos but even those are exciting to me. :)
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some seedlings
Anemone heldreichii, from fresh cretan seeds
Iris pamphyllica, the spikes are funny, after 2 years the rhizoms lenght is 1.5-3cms
Helleborus torquatus, the pots were frozen
Crocus armeniacum, seeds offered by Janis
Delphinium semibarbatum, a fast grower, easy in the garden
Concerning the iris, it seems that it is a point that made it possible to pierce the substrate to leave the first young and tender leaf.
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The first seeds of the year are starting to germinate. I was given some GA3 by a friend last winter and thought I would try some on eranthis seed from the seedex. I know that old dry seed of eranthis does not tend to germinate well, so I was very pleased to find these today. There are about 30 seeds in the pot. It will be interesting to see how many more germinate in the next few days.
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Narcissus ex AW 2488-17 - The parent, which I lost, is a selected clone from Anne Wright from the cross N. watieri x N. rupicola marvieri. Why do I struggle so much to keep the Apodanthi alive?? :'(
Narcissus albimarginatus - an absolute treasure, but guess what... Section Apodanthi ::)
Narcissus cantabricus from near Almaden, Spain
Fritillaria karelinii - in need of more light, seed from Kurt Vickery
Crocus adenensis - delayed germination of seed from the dear, late Marcus Harvey
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Hello. Can anyone tell me if it is a semi of Corydalis sempervirens? They were sown in October in an outdoor setting. They were returned last week in the greenhouse protected from frost. Thank you.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
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Looks like it, Fred. I have the white form which self sows in my greenhouse.
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That would be good news. :D
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Fred - I would also say is C. sempervirens - called Capnoides sempervirens actually. See mine of last year; they grow incredibly fast and should flower in the summer. I planted them all over the garden.
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Yes, it is quite the same. The real name is not Corydalis?
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Sorry Fred, I mean to answer but my main computer went suddenly dead :-\
Capnoides sempervirens was called Corydalis at some point, then reversed back to Capnoides (the only species of the genus) based on various differences
from Corydalis.
Same goes for Pseudofumaria lutea (C. lutea) and P. alba (C. ochroleuca).
But as long as we are talking about the same plants it's fine. Honestly, when I think about them I called them all Corydalis, when I write I use the other names ;)
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Some African bulbs germinating.
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Sorry Fred, I mean to answer but my main computer went suddenly dead :-\
Capnoides sempervirens was called Corydalis at some point, then reversed back to Capnoides (the only species of the genus) based on various differences
from Corydalis.
Same goes for Pseudofumaria lutea (C. lutea) and P. alba (C. ochroleuca).
But as long as we are talking about the same plants it's fine. Honestly, when I think about them I called them all Corydalis, when I write I use the other names ;)
Thanks for the precisions Gabriela,
I still change the names in my list for the three (Capnoides and Pseudofumaria). It's a lot of gymnastics of the mind to hold back and adapt to all the changes. But since it's like that ...
Joost, it always puts a lot of hope to see all the new seedlings that are germinating. Is not it true ?
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I have a question for Capnoides sempervirens.
I read that they germinate more, when the area where are the seeds undergoes a fire.
What triggers more active germination?
Is it the fact that there is more light due to "unplugging"? Is it the smoke that is in contact with the seeds? Is it the ashes that percolate their soda and other substances? A mix of everything? Or we do not know why?
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Last year, I deposited Narcissus Oxford Gold pollen on Narcissus Julia Jane. I sowed the seeds in September. Here are the first shoots.[attach=1]
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I have a question for Capnoides sempervirens.
I read that they germinate more, when the area where are the seeds undergoes a fire.
What triggers more active germination?
Is it the fact that there is more light due to "unplugging"? Is it the smoke that is in contact with the seeds? Is it the ashes that percolate their soda and other substances? A mix of everything? Or we do not know why?
I've never used smoking for germinating seeds Fred; I remember there was a discussion about it at some point in the forum.
Regarding Capnoides - I don't know where you read about it, but this species germinates so easily that I don't know why would need any stimulation.
You will see with your seedlings this year - seeds from early flowering plants will even germinate in late summer (of the same year), then the ones forming in the fall will easily germinate in the spring. Only if they get too dry probably they will stop to germinate.
Maybe it was refering to older seeds.
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Iris goniocarpa, having been cut on Christmas day.
Pic on January 19.
John
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I've never used smoking for germinating seeds Fred; I remember there was a discussion about it at some point in the forum.
Regarding Capnoides - I don't know where you read about it, but this species germinates so easily that I don't know why would need any stimulation.
You will see with your seedlings this year - seeds from early flowering plants will even germinate in late summer (of the same year), then the ones forming in the fall will easily germinate in the spring. Only if they get too dry probably they will stop to germinate.
Maybe it was refering to older seeds.
Fred, I agree with Gabriela. It germinates very easily.
Some years ago I got some seeds from the SRGC seed exchange. They were sown in January and germinated in April and flowered during the summer. Next year all the surrounding pots were full of Capnoides seedlings and now it has become a weed in my garden, so if you don't want that remove the seed pods before they split.
Poul
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A wise man is worth two ... I will be careful where I plant it in this case. Thanks for the warning.
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To show how variable Iris pumila germination can be; seeds received from a 'far away' forumist :-*
Each pot with seeds from different specimens (there is another pot that has none germinated). The same origin/location, same treatment and about the same nr. seeds/pot.
The seeds were soaked 4-5 days, kept at warm; actually I didn’t expect them to start germinating, most sources say they need warm followed by a cold period for germination.
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On January 17, I received the first seeds of the seed exchange. On 17 January I placed the seeds of Hippeastrum papilio in a glass with water. Today I look. The first seed is germinated.
[attachimg=1]
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In the glass house, the Tulipa sylvestris emerge from the ground. The seeds which had been sown at the same time, on the first of September under the surface gravel and watered, also germinated.
[attachimg=1]
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A small forest of Anigozanthos manglessii..............
[attachimg=1]
Canna altensteinii three weeks after scarifying the seed............
[attachimg=2]
Solanum pyracanthum..........
[attachimg=3]
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Fast germination of Corallodiscus kingianus. I hope they are growing on so well. Haberlea didn't germinate within the same period.
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Is anyone here intimately familiar with the North American phlox? I've had this seedling come up in a pot which could be recycled potting medium, I can't recall, but it does remind me of some of the phlox I tried from seed last year with limited success. I did sow Phlox diffusa. Could it be that?
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Is anyone here intimately familiar with the North American phlox? I've had this seedling come up in a pot which could be recycled potting medium, I can't recall, but it does remind me of some of the phlox I tried from seed last year with limited success. I did sow Phlox diffusa. Could it be that?
I wouldn't be discarding it! ;D
Looks hopeful, Jamus, but I've never raised it from seed,
cheers
fermi
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Is anyone here intimately familiar with the North American phlox? I've had this seedling come up in a pot which could be recycled potting medium, I can't recall, but it does remind me of some of the phlox I tried from seed last year with limited success. I did sow Phlox diffusa. Could it be that?
Jamus,
It does not look like Phlox diffusa which I see in the Sierra Nevada, but as Fermi says "I wouldn't be discarding it!" ;D
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Jamus,
I think the safe way to put a name to this type of Phlox is to wait for flowers.
Meanwhile here is a link with trusted images; open at P. diffusa but you can look up for other NA species.
http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/cgi/img_query?where-lifeform=any&rel-taxon=contains&where-taxon=Phlox+diffusa&rel-namesoup=matchphrase&where-namesoup=&rel-location=matchphrase&where-location=&rel-county=eq&where-county=any&rel-state=eq&where-state=any&rel-country=eq&where-country=any&where-collectn=any&rel-photographer=contains&where-photographer=&rel-kwid=equals&where-kwid=&max_rows=24 (http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/cgi/img_query?where-lifeform=any&rel-taxon=contains&where-taxon=Phlox+diffusa&rel-namesoup=matchphrase&where-namesoup=&rel-location=matchphrase&where-location=&rel-county=eq&where-county=any&rel-state=eq&where-state=any&rel-country=eq&where-country=any&where-collectn=any&rel-photographer=contains&where-photographer=&rel-kwid=equals&where-kwid=&max_rows=24)
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Thanks guys, I will put it in its own pot and wait and see! If it's a weed I'll be embarrassed. ::)
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If it's a weed I'll be embarrassed. ::)
Why? We've all done it, my crops of weeds are notorious ;D
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Hey check out this excellent website I just found. http://tchester.org/plants/analysis/phlox/phlox_austromontana_diffusa.html (http://tchester.org/plants/analysis/phlox/phlox_austromontana_diffusa.html)
I'm now fairly certain it's a Phlox, one of those I ordered from Alplains seeds two years ago (otherwise there's no good explanation for how it got here!)
Funny story, it's in a hanging pot under our pergola which Rebecca planted a succulent (string of bananas she calls it). This is how it goes;
Rebecca comes to me, I bought this plant, have you got any potting mix?
me: don't use my special alpine mix, I need it!
Rebecca: but it's a succulent, it will like that mix
me: Here use this recycled stuff, I'm finished with those pots.
There's a Viola in the pot too... I'm curious, but if I'm honest with myself it's probably just labradorica.
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I've had a couple of the high phloxes from seed, (Ron Ratko's seed) and had them germinate but not grow on for very long. Jamus, yours looks to me very like a phlox (but which?) but it doesn't look like a seedling to me. It looks like the plants that grow from broken root, root cuttings in effect but I suppose that's not likely if the seed was from just last year. It doesn't look like a NEW seedling though.
I have some more SRGC germinating at the weekend, Scutellaria orientalis and S. o. glandulosissima and 2 of 6 seeds of Rheum delavayi. I had this for many years then lost it during the shift down here. I think it was covered with autumn leaves too long and didn't come up the following spring, so it's a great thrill to have the seedlings. :D
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Have re-read the first note Jamus and here's what I think has happened. Maybe you threw out the pot of seed mix to recycle and perhaps a very small seedling was there or just below the surface. It has perhaps died off in its green parts but the root has kept alive and now has come to the surface and grown on. Think of the way a seedling of Californian thistle behaves. If you don't get the ENTIRE root, even from the tiniest seedling, it will sprout and come up again bigger and brighter and more determined than in the beginning. Phloxes of all persuasions will do this too. It's how I propagate P. bifida for instance, from root rather than from leaf cuttings.
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Yes I think you might be right Lesley. Yesterday I tipped out a tube with Townsendia spathulifolia which I thought had died and found a very healthy looking bulbous crown and extensive roots. I've repotted that carefully. I think the Phlox could easily have done the same "deciduous" trick.
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A good healthy root system. Now potted carefully and labelled Phlox (?)
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That looks really good Jamus. Now we can look forward to seeing the flowers, perhaps this coming spring. :)
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In the outer frame, some seeds begin to germinate.
I just saw 1) Tulipa sylvestris, sown in September 2016
[attach=1]
2) and 3) Fritillaria raddeana in September as well.
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
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Romulea sabulosa from the 2016 seedex were sown on Feb 14th 2016 and one germinated that summer. The seedling to the left emerged on Feb 14th 2017, one year later.
john
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New species I'm trying just to test the germination on small lots:
Primula zambalensis and Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense (after 1 month of cold)
Gentiana uchiyamae (GA3)
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
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Some lilies which have appeared in the last week:
Lilium primulinum var. ochraceum (seedlings up after 20 days at 20 °C)
[attach=1]
Lilium concolor var. coridion (seedlings up after 29 days at 20 °C)
[attach=2]
Lilium pyrenaicum ssp. carniolicum var. bosniacum (first, of many I hope, seedling up after 353 days which included two cycles of cold-cool)
[attach=3]
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After successful flowering last year, I thought I'd try it ... it worked
. ;D ;D
Alstomeria patagonica
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Some photos of today ...
Calceolaria biflora sown 23.12.16
Tropaeolum incissum sown 5.1.16
Paraquilegia microphylla sown 5.1.16
Dracocephalum (from ebbi) sown 27.12.16
Townsendia nuttallii sown 23.12.16
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Hi Leucogenes
Are the paraquilegia seeds fresh?
I always have problem germinating the seeds. Only once I got fresh seeds which germinated well but the seedlings died after transplanting.
Krish
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Hi Leucogenes
Are the paraquilegia seeds fresh?
I always have problem germinating the seeds. Only once I got fresh seeds which germinated well but the seedlings died after transplanting.
Krish
Hello Krish,
... the seeds are from Vojtech Holubec from the year 2015. I got them in winter and have them at 5.1.16. sown. But I have no experience with the species. It is my first attempt ... wish me luck.
Thomas
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Thanks Leucogenes.
My experience growing the plant only one time was not successful. That year I germinated fresh seeds.
Stephanie Ferguson from Calgary grows it like a weed.
Needs very good drainage,full sun.
good luck
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Some seedlings of today ...
Epilobium latifolium sown 11.2.17
Saussurea gnaphalodes sown 14.1.17
Leontopodium nivale "Gran Sasso" form sown 23.12.16
Clematis scottii sown 19.02.16
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Due to my poor results of seed germination, about 10%, I have tried the Norman Deno method of sowing on damp kitchen towel. So far, out of 38 different species, only one has germinated. Not having sterile laboratory conditions most seem to be infected with "mould." I followed the instructions regarding folding the tissues lightly and only dampening the towels. Have others been more successful? My sowings took place indoors in the kitchen and are placed away from direct sunlight. Perhaps this shows the amount of spores in my kitchen during winter. Maybe they come in out of the cold.
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Which species are you talking about?
The seeds of many plant species from temperate regions need a cold period before they will germinate. We call this stratification.
Simply sow the seeds in pots and place them outside over winter. Many start to germinate in spring but if there is no germination you'll have to wait another year. Just as in nature not all seeds will germinate in the first spring after sowing. Furthermore, the seeds of some species first need a warm period and then a cold period before they will germinate. Lastly, the seed of some species has a short term viability and should be sown as soon as it is ripe or stored adequately (moist and usually cold).
Now that winter is behind us (at least where I live 8)) you can artificially stratify the seeds in the fridge. Very fine seeds can be put between folded moist paper towel and put in a ziplock bag and placed for 2-3 months in the fridge at 5 degrees C. Bigger seeds can be put with slightly moist sowing compost directly in a ziplock bag. After 2-3 months you can sow the seeds and hopefully germination takes place. For some species this artificial stratification method does not work properly as they need alternating temperatures in order to germinate.
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Over about 50 years I have tried all methods I could think of, including stratification, delayed sowing, sowing in various composts, including my own mixes. I keep pots of seeds for 3 years and if they do not germinate by then they are thrown onto the garden. The species I try to grow are mostly native (UK). 10% germination is about normal. The Norman Deno method was the last chance.
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If a 10% germination rate is about 'normal' and you get a 10% germination rate I think you cannot complain. I wonder if the seeds were sown under sterile lab conditions the germination rate would improve significantly. Some species need soil mycorrhiza to be able to germinate and a sterile lab would be of no use.
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I was trying to post pictures and only after that I read about the updates ::)
We can live without pictures for a while ;D I can say it without them - my first ever Galanthus and Crocus banaticus are germinating!
Galanthus - mix and G. plicatus (outside and the pot is frozen!) - many thanks and kisses Leena :-*
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I was trying to post pictures and only after that I read about the updates ::)
We can live without pictures for a while ;D I can say it without them - my first ever Galanthus and Crocus banaticus are germinating!
Galanthus - mix and G. plicatus (outside and the pot is frozen!) - many thanks and kisses Leena :-*
Glad to hear that news from your plants, Gabriela!
The forum as a whole will be unavailable tomorrow - we hope for only a day.... we'll see.
Maggi
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I already started to imagine large drifts of C. banaticus in the fall :D ???
Best wishes for a smooth transition to the new server!
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... some seedlings of today.
Dudleya abramsii ssp.marina 27.01.17
Campanula zoysii 08/16
Allium weschnjakowii 14.01.17
Dodecatheon conjugens 14.02.17
Saussurea glacialis 14.01.17
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Galanthus - mix and G. plicatus (outside and the pot is frozen!) - many thanks and kisses Leena :-*
:) :) :)
I'm so happy for you!
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:) :) :)
I'm so happy for you!
Thanks Leena :)
The Galanthus bulbs I bought last fall weren't that bad as usual, so all combined together should make for a decent display in a few years.
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Last years crop of Hepatica nobilis seed are giving good germination, with seed from blue, white and violet plants, and some first true leaves showing already.
Corydalis shanginii subsp ainae - seed from Kurt Vickery
Seedlings from a yellow form of Trillium chloropetalum from a dear friend
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An update on my earlier Hepatica babies (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg352767#msg352767): to remind you they were sown 18 May 2014, germinated 12 Feb 2015, many put up two true leaves in that first year, they had super root systems when repotted last year and most have now flowered in February and March this year, 2 years after germinating. All are blue, although the parents were cross pollinated between pink and blue (both directions) so they'll contain genes for pink as well and may throw pink offspring?
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Hi Matt
I grew some Hepatica nobilis seeds outside two years ago.
They have germinated and first true leaves appeared this year.
They are in the garden growing slowly.
I want to fasten their growth since Canadian summer and fall time is short. Do you grow them in pot and what type of soil,fertilizer you give.
My other question is do they need winter dormancy. In that case I can keep my pots in the fridge.
Can you or anyone who grow hepatica in pots will help me.
Thanks
Krish
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Hi Krish,
I keep my Hepatica babies outside, but in a cold frame all year round. However, I'm not as cold as you in the winter! They will be dormant in the winter, with the changing seasons triggering this, but our coldest month is February, with an average minimum temperature of +3oC (conversely our summer ave max is only 16oC). I think they should be pretty hardy if you keep them cool and on the dry side in the winter. It's the combination of cold + wet that's a killer for most plants.
Mine are grown in pots, in a light open potting mix of a loam, organic matter, perlite and grit in roughly equal proportions. After germination I feed them with a balanced feed at half strength once a month when actively growing.
Good luck!
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Thanks Matt.
I am going to grow them in pots inside during winter.
Hepatica nobilis is hardy here and once established flowers nicely. I am determined to take some pictures and post it this year.
On the other hand it takes a awful lot of time to grow them from seeds.
It took me four years to grow them outside to flowering stage.The growth period is so short due to the cold
kris
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An update on my earlier Hepatica babies (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg352767#msg352767): to remind you they were sown 18 May 2014, germinated 12 Feb 2015, many put up two true leaves in that first year, they had super root systems when repotted last year and most have now flowered in February and March this year, 2 years after germinating. All are blue, although the parents were cross pollinated between pink and blue (both directions) so they'll contain genes for pink as well and may throw pink offspring?
Congratulations Matt :) I understand the feeling. I also expect the first flowers from the 3 years old plants and it is very exciting! (even if there are hundreds in the woods nearby ::).
I think the flower colour is transmitted after the simple Mendelian law, so if you keep growing them from seeds some pink forms should appear. In H. americana blue is the dominant colour as well and pink forms are quite rare. I didn't cross pollinate mine, only collected seeds from deep blue/violet mother plants.
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I'm always surprise to see how nobilis can be hardy.
i'd too much seedlings obtained from Anne's seeds, i let my daughter planted them where she desired.
The bigger plants are now those not protected, receiving winter rains and almost flooded in clay.
I planted others in a special mix, protected them with a glass, they're 3x smaller!! will post photos later.
Here's the 2016 batch
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Very nice and orderly batch Yann.
Just to show one seedling (for now) - Salvia canescens var. daghestanica - from SRCG seedex. From the few seeds only 1 has germinated.
This is my favourite Salvia, had it for few years and lost it, so I'm happy with just the one! It may be var. canescens, but anyway there is some variability.
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I'm always surprise to see how nobilis can be hardy.
H.nobilis is superhardy here, I have just looked at it in the edge of the woods where there has been very little snow in the winter, and then the snow melted there early, and still H.nobilis has now flower buds showing even when it had been earlier at least -15C and no snow.
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Here some Seedlings from North America from the weekend ...
Liatris punctata 27.12.16
Penstemon pruinosus 11.2.17
Penstemon fruticosus var. Scouleri 11.2.17
Astragalus lutosus 27.1.17
Astragalus purshii var. Tinctus 27.1.17
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Nice NA collection :)
Found a bunch of germinated pots outdoors on Sunday and while fresh in my folder I would like to mention Campanula saxifraga – this species is reported by some as warm germinator or after a short cold period (which I tried last year and didn’t work for me).
It comes to show well that in some cases there is no clear cut method for germination and that the genetic component and seed provenience has a greater influence on germination than thought before. The second ed. of Baskin & Baskin book Seeds - Ecology, Biogeography, and, Evolution of Dormancy and Germination, has an interesting chapter on the subject (a bit heavy book from all point of views though).
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And here three times pictures of seedlings, where I got the seeds from members of the forum ...
Silene davidii 10.03.17 from Philippe
Bellevalia sp ex Iran 27.12.16 from ebbie
Digitalis obscura 27.12.16 from GordonT
Thank you again ... :)
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Rhododendron mucronulatum var taquettii from seed ex germinated already in the end of February, but they are looking like this now. Soon ready to be pricked out. Thank you John. :)
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Romulea sabulosa from the 2016 seedex were sown on Feb 14th 2016 and one germinated that summer. The seedling to the left emerged on Feb 14th 2017, one year later.
john
. John, did you have these inside or outside? Do they require any special conditions to germinate?
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They say in a greenhouse the whole time, temps in summer got to 40c on many occasions as the ventilation was turned off and the doors opened erratically. The 7.5cm deep pot may have been water once a week at best. One more seedling has since come up.
john
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After a first this year with Crocus and Galanthus from seeds, here comes more - Erythroniums. This forum is contagious ;D
I never bothered to sow E. americanum but last year I kept some seeds for myself.
[attach=1]
Erythronium dens-canis - thank you Trond!
[attach=2]
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My second pot of Lilium matagense (Bjørnar's BO-16-065) has germinated with all 9/9 seeds coming up. They were planted in January in the cold frame, but it has been crazily warm here (around 20 °C most days for the past 3 weeks), so they got moved to the pit which allows light into our basement (in French, this is called a soupirail; is there a word for this in English?) on the shady side of the house where the temperature only gets up to 13 °C.
[attach=1]
Next are a couple of species of which I have no previous experience.
Rhodophiala montana was in the fridge in moist kitchen paper for 15 days, then into the soupirail. First germination was 21 days after being taken out of fridge. Only 3 (from 16) germinated so far.
[attach=2]
Rhodophiala splendens had the same treatment as R. montana. So far, just a solitary seedling, 24 days after coming out of the fridge. So fingers crossed for more.
[attach=3]
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Seedlings from this week ...
Camasia quamash 11.2.17
Oreomyyhis argentea 08/16
Erigeron "Big Horn Mts." 08/16
Dryas caucasica 27.12.16
Leontopodium nivale "Pirin-Form" 24.7.16
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Very elaborate labels, Keith ... my respect.
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Some nice new species starting to germinate here. I'm especially excited about Linaria michauxii.
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part 2
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These were all planted March 24, last year.
With no. 2 grit cover, I thought the "hook" on the end of the emerging Iris histriodes was interesting....
Campanula choruhensis (no.1 grit cover)
Allium paradoxum normale:
--- left - 4 weeks at 4°C, then outside in natural spring, summer, winter and (now) spring.
--- right - 4 weeks at 21°C, then outside in natural spring, summer, winter and (now) spring.
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Sanguinaria has started to germinate few weeks ago but I waited to be sure I have all lots to compare. As known Sanguinaria seeds can have a deep simple epicotyl dormancy and also a double dormancy (germination in 2 years). By the look of the different pots/seeds coll. in different populations it seems that it's not random (like it often happens with Trillium grandiflorum) but very much related with the collection site.
Sorry I don't keep neat labels so you have to trust what I'm showing:
Seeds sown in 2015 – germ. 2017.
[attach=1]
Seeds sown 2016 - germ. 2017
[attach=2]
Few others
Minuartia circassica
[attach=3]
Ornithogalum hajastanum
[attach=4]
Hydrophyllum virginianum (as well with simple epicotyl dormancy)
[attach=5]
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As known Sanguinaria seeds can have a deep simple epicotyl dormancy and also a double dormancy (germination in 2 years). By the look of the different pots/seeds coll. in different populations it seems that it's not random (like it often happens with Trillium grandiflorum) but very much related with the collection site.
This is interesting. I sowed S.canadensis from my own seeds in summer 2015 and they are germinating now.
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At the Beginning of 2014 I sowed Aquilegia saximontana, seeds coming from Alplains/USA. One seedling came up but did not survive. The box stood in a plastic case in a corner outside since then. Last week I wanted to clean it up and that's what I found:
[attach=1]
After more than three years! I hope they will survive this time.
Hannelore
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I am never surprised when expected germination does not take place and especially with some genera such as Iris. Even the common and easy ones can be recalcitrant sometimes. Herbaceous plants though, such as your Aquilegia Hannelore, are perhaps more predictable but if I've learned anything, it is never to throw out pots of seed too early. Last year a single seedling germinated for me of a rare androsace, 3 and a half years after the few seeds were sown. It is now a single rosette about 1cm across.
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This is interesting. I sowed S.canadensis from my own seeds in summer 2015 and they are germinating now.
That means you have the 2 year germinator Leena.
I will repeat this year by sowing from both populations at the same time, then we'll know if it was a one time event or it's indeed the genetic effect. The seeds 2016 - germinated 2017 are from a place I usually don't collect but last year I was late on my other site.
I am never surprised when expected germination does not take place and especially with some genera such as Iris. Even the common and easy ones can be recalcitrant sometimes. Herbaceous plants though, such as your Aquilegia Hannelore, are perhaps more predictable but if I've learned anything, it is never to throw out pots of seed too early. Last year a single seedling germinated for me of a rare androsace, 3 and a half years after the few seeds were sown. It is now a single rosette about 1cm across.
You are certainly right Lesley. My question is where to keep all these pots which 'accumulate' from one year to another? :-\ ::)
Delphinium fissum is another slow and erratic germinator, but worth the wait (seeds sown in 2014)
[attach=1]
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Ah yes Gabriela, that is the question and I wonder has anyone ever answered it satisfactorily? I am very fortunate (I think) in having nearly an acre to play with though only about half this is "used" space, the rest being left to itself to seed, weed or grow wild however it likes.But in the relatively civilized parts, there are numerous little patches of a few trays in which seeds, both germinated and not, wait the next stage in their complicated and transient lives.
I sow my seeds into 90 or 100mm square plastic pots and house them 20 to a tray, keeping a note in my erstwhile garden book of what is in each tray, the date sown and source of the seed, maybe the number of seeds if there are just a few of something special. I say erstwhile because while I start to record religiously, after a week or two I forget for a couple of days and suddenly the record loses value. Maybe I'll start again or maybe not.
When germination starts I move those pots to a new area where rain/frost/sun/wind can be controlled. (Everything stays outside all through the year) and eventually I get to the stage of "I must get those potted up" or "it's way past time those bulb seedlings were planted out." Bulb seedlings are put in a different place to grow on for a second season but then suddenly they're in their 3rd year and I'm getting further and further behind in my workload.
I look forward to the day when I no longer want to sow seeds or propagate plants. When does that happen, I wonder?
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Lesley,
My question was a bit rhetorical but I am very glad you answer it :) I am sure many will read it with great interest.
The seeds are mysterious living things, you may never know when they decide to wake up from dormancy.
Staying organized is very important of course; I do better by keeping photographical records (as long as the pictures are organized in proper folders).
"I look forward to the day when I no longer want to sow seeds or propagate plants. When does that happen, I wonder?" - probably the answer is never?
Once a seed addict... :)
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We came home last week to find that a few of the pots we'd sown in April had germinations:
1) Asperula orientalis NARGS 2016/17 Surplus Seeds - 17 out of 45 sown 28-04-17;
2) Physaria kingii (as above) -10 of 10 sown! Looking very similar to the Asperula :-\
3) Calochortus luteus - Robert B - 12 of 25 sown 27-04-17;
4) Anemone demissa - Bjorn, China, 2 of 15 sown 21-05-16!
cheers
fermi
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Can someone please have a look at my seedlings of Potentilla nitida and let me know if they look right? The seed is from Majella Larochelle, and I'm sure it's accurately named and carefully collected... immature leaves are often very different from mature, but I'd sleep better if someone confirmed it for me.
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Hmm, bit doubtful myself.... :-\
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Oh dear.. me too Maggie, me too. I'm not giving up hope yet as I can't really imagine how Majella would get it wrong...
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Good Morning Jamus ,
me too --I remember it growing here several times :it had smaller silvery grey ,hairy leaves . It often appears on the SRGC and AGS seed lists . Better luck next time as it is a beautiful plant .
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The winter growth on mine is, yes, very silver and each leaf is made of 3 quite separate leaflets on a reddish stem. I don't think these are right Jamus. That's not to say that whatever it is isn't something good.
Otto what appears regularly on the seedlists may not be true of course. ::)
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I am interested to see Potentilla porphyrantha which I've seen described as "a poor man's P. nitida" not because it is less good but because it flowers well and is also a pink with silvery leaves.
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Thanks Otto and Lesley. I have another pot of seed from another source, yet to germinate but fingers crossed... these frosty nights should help to stratify the alpines and stimulate them to move.
Cheers
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I am interested to see Potentilla porphyrantha which I've seen described as "a poor man's P. nitida" not because it is less good but because it flowers well and is also a pink with silvery leaves.
You're very right Lesley, porphyrantha is such a beauty; I had a nice little plant which collapsed in a weird way last year just before flowering, I will try to get it again.
Since I got into this thread - Swertia perennis with an interesting case of tricotyledony:
[attach=1]
Ornithogalum kochii, not a very great picture but good enough for my records
[attach=2]
And, a bit pale but I'm sure they'll look better in no time - Gentiana purpurea and a grass - I am keeping everything in case of wild collection :) Thanks Trond :-*
Germination in second year, not an easy one.
[attach=3]
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Gabriela, I stand to be corrected but I think our friend Cohan F may have had the seed of Pot. porphyrantha from Jellito's in Germany.
Jamus, looking at your seedlings of the asperula I'd be very doubtful about that one too. I've not had any asperula from seed but their size and shape and fleshiness seem at odds somehow with the asperula species we know. What do you think?
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Not my Asperula seed Lesley, Fermi's! I'm yet to try that Genus.
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So it is. Sorry Jamus and Fermi. ???
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At least I'm fairly certain my seedlings are in the right Genus... they appear to be a Potentilla of some description. New leaves are three lobed and a little more typical of the Genus than the first set of true leaves, but I'm still convinced it ain't nitida.
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Gabriela, I stand to be corrected but I think our friend Cohan F may have had the seed of Pot. porphyrantha from Jellito's in Germany.
I don't know what Cohen has Lesley, my plant came from forumist R. Pavlis who probably grew it from NARGS seedex, like many other of his plants. I am still getting upset thinking about it. Maybe I'll get another small division :-X :)
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On the Internet, P. porphyrantha looks quite beautiful.
Jamus when I really look at P. nitida, the lobes of mine, (and given that it is in winter mode,) looks like a hand held out with the fingers wide open, the little finger and thumb both tucked under so that the 3 remaining fingers are half-open-fan shaped. Lobes are wider of course.
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You're very right Lesley, porphyrantha is such a beauty; I had a nice little plant which collapsed in a weird way last year just before flowering, I will try to get it again.
I've just collected few seeds from my two years and first flowering seedlings. Seeds were from SAJA, the "french SRGC".
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Collect seed for me in the summer please Lesley. ;)
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I'd be delighted to do that Jamus but though I've had P. nitida for many years, off and on, I have to admit that I've never had even one flower! which is why P. porphyrantha is of interest. It flowers quite well apparently. My nitida has always come from my friends at Hokonui Alpines and I believe Louise does have occasional flowers but I'm not sure that there has been seed as well. I can't believe our conditions are so awful that it rebels so consistently, so something else must be the cause. But what??? ::)
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Mineral composition of the soil? Heat/cold cycles? I think calcium would be a must, considering when you see it growing wild it's always on limestone. I can give it a different set of conditions here and I have a limestone bed, constructed for lowland oncos. All I need is a plant! I will keep trying the seed exchanges and perhaps some day strike it lucky.
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... looking at your seedlings of the asperula I'd be very doubtful about that one too. I've not had any asperula from seed but their size and shape and fleshiness seem at odds somehow with the asperula species we know. What do you think?
Hi Lesley
I have my doubts about it as well!
It's not one I've grown before so for now I have to give it the benefit of the doubt.
Do you think that I should prick them out now or wait for the weather to start warming up?
cheers
fermi
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Fermi I would separate them and pot them on because they've come up quite thickly. I do my seedlings as they germinate all through the winter and don't have any troubles. It'll be interesting to see what they are.
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To note the very late germination of Dioscorea caucasica - after two heat waves here; obviously requires high temp. to trigger the germination (sown in the winter outdoors).
First seedling appeared last week, now the rest of them and growing with the speed of light.
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Bloomeria humilis NARGS Seedex 2017 sown 28-04-2017
cheers
fermi
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Crocus cancellatus (Crocus Group 2016) sown 27-04-17
Lapeirousia divaricata (NARGS Sdx 2016/17) sown 28-04-17
Calochortus luteus (Robert B) sown 27-04-17-more germinations since 5-06-17!
cheers
fermi
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Iris macrosiphon seed from Robert B sown 18-09-2016: 1st seedling 28-07-2017;
Triteleia laxa NARGS Surplus Seed 2016/2017 coll R.Ratko, Mendocino Co; sown 28-04-2017;
Narcissus fernandesii from Rafa D; sown 27-04-17; 1st seedling: 28-07-2017;
Calochortus invenustus NARGS SS 16/17 coll R.R. Tulare Co; sown 28-04-2017; 1st sdg: 28-07-2017;
cheers
fermi
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Chlorogalum pomeridianum NARGS Surplus Seed 2016/2017 Coll R. Ratko, Trinity Co; sown 28-04-2017; 1st seedling 20-07-2017;
cheers
fermi
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Iris macrosiphon seed from Robert B sown 18-09-2016: 1st seedling 28-07-2017;
Triteleia laxa NARGS Surplus Seed 2016/2017 coll R.Ratko, Mendocino Co; sown 28-04-2017;
Narcissus fernandesii from Rafa D; sown 27-04-17; 1st seedling: 28-07-2017;
Calochortus invenustus NARGS SS 16/17 coll R.R. Tulare Co; sown 28-04-2017; 1st sdg: 28-07-2017;
cheers
fermi
Hi Fermi,
Did you get any altitude information with the Triteleia laxa seed? This species grows over a wide altitude range in the Northern Coastal Mountains. Plants observed at higher elevations can show some morphological differences (lower stature and smaller flowers) from those seen at lowers elevations and elsewhere in the state.
The Iris marcosiphon seedlings will hopefully show some good color variation. I have grown seedlings that are white through various shades of lavender-blue.
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Did you get any altitude information with the Triteleia laxa seed? This species grows over a wide altitude range in the Northern Coastal Mountains.
Hi Robert,
No info other than "North Coast Ranges, Mendocino County"
The Iris marcosiphon seedlings will hopefully show some good color variation. I have grown seedlings that are white through various shades of lavender-blue.
I'm looking forward to seeing what colours get to flower on this side of the world ;D
cheers
fermi
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Iris zenaidae sown 29-05-2016 so only14 months to germinate ;D
cheers
fermi
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not bad
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A few seeds germinating this month are
tulipa Little Princess x Auchuriana
tulipa Little Beauty x Aucheriana
various tulip species and erythronium hybrids
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Here're some babies from Oron's seeds
Bellevalia zohari, 08/15
Sternbergia clusia 08/16
Iris grant-duffi 08/16
sorry for bad smartphone photo quality
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Here's an exciting (but poor quality) photo.
A couple of years ago I received 4 seeds of Iris galatica (thank you Yann!). I sowed them conventionally in May 2015 and left them out in the seed frame. After 2 years there was no sign of germination. I found that one seed had rotted away, but three were still sound, so I decided to give it a go - following advice on this Forum I cut the seeds to expose the embryo. In doing so one of the seeds pinged across the room from under my blade and is now irretrievably lost behind a bookcase! However, two seeds were successfully cut and put in the fridge in June. Very quickly both showed signs of germinating. One is slightly slower than the other, but this one has now been potted up in a gritty mix to grow on.
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Lapeirousia jacquinii NARGS Seedex 2017; 10 sown 28-04-17; first seedling 27-08-17;
Dichelostemma volubile collected by Robert B, El Dorado County; sown 27-04-17; first sdg: 12-08-17;
Calochortus monophyllus coll. by Robert B, El Dorado County; sown 27-04-17; first sdg: 5-09-17;
Isotoma axillaris, self sown!
Crocus cyprius from The Crocus Group Seedex 2016; sown 27-04-17; first sdg: 5-09-17; second by 8-09-17 - 2 outta 3 ain't bad! ;D
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
Calochortus monphyllus is a perfect rock garden gem. It is quite small and has bright yellow flowers. In our Sacramento garden, this species has been surprisingly tolerant of summer moisture. I tend to keep mine dry in the summer. I think that they are happier this way.
Did Calochortus minimus germinate for you? In some locations this "species" can be quite variable. In some cases they might represent natural hybrids with Calochrtus nudus or some form of introgression between the two species. This is something I am investigating. Anyway, they can be quite variable with some very beautiful forms. Of coarse, some can be very tiny - perfect for an alpine garden, pan or tough.
Very 8)
Cheers
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Ammocharis coranica
[attach=1]
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Oron's seeds are germinating, i've checked seedlings from previous years and all is in good state.
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Matt i've just seen your reply, great news, cutting method gives excellent results.
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I love the genus Pinus. Here are seedlings of Pinus longaeva, Pinus tecunumannii and Pinus kesiya.
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Some cercis are germinating now!
1) Cercis occidentalis from Robert B in Calforna; sown 18-09-2016; germinated 29-09-2017;
2) Cercis griffithii from John W in Canada; sown 27-04-2017; germinated 2-10-2017;
cheers
fermi
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Iris zenaidae sown 29-05-2016 so only14 months to germinate ;D
cheers
fermi
How did you sow these seeds of Iris zanaidae Fermi?
mine did not give anything ...I had to keep the pot too wet
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How did you sow these seeds of Iris zanaidae Fermi?
mine did not give anything ...I had to keep the pot too wet
Hi Véronique,
my standard way of sowing such seed is to prepare a pot of gritty potting mix; sow the seeds on top and cover with 1/4 inch of grit/coarse sand; water and leave outdoors over winter; keep watered during spring; if no germination by the end of spring I discontinue watering and store the seed trays under cover till autumn then allow rain to reach the pots. These started to germinate the second winter after sowing,
cheers
fermi
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Don't laugh but I'm rather pleased with my Lilium formosanum var.pricei seeds.............
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Exotic plants I find easy but cool germinating plants have always been a source of embarrassment to me. Having failed with Lilium species so many times I did my research and got confused by the different advice so I went my own way again. This time I put some fine vermiculite in a plastic container and moistened it, dropped the seeds in, put the lid on and gave it a shake before shoving it in the fridge............
[attachimg=4]
That was three weeks ago and they're germinating. Now I have two questions;
1] What do I do now!
and
2] How should I store the remainder of the seed until january/February? As it's dry I was thinking of putting it in the fridge as well.
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Hi Meanie,
I am not laughing - it happened to me as well. I knew it was a warm germinator but didn't expect it to go that fast. The seedlings are also very fast growers, so about the germinated seeds - you can transplant some in pots if you can provide light for them in the winter.
If not, better discard them since you have more seeds.
The seeds - it doesn't really matter where you keep them until February (for longer term I would say in the fridge). Easier to sow them directly in pots. You can expect few flowers in the first year! (if not in the second for sure).
An absolutely beautiful and rewarding Lilium.
[attach=1]
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Hi Meanie,
I am not laughing - it happened to me as well. I knew it was a warm germinator but didn't expect it to go that fast. The seedlings are also very fast growers, so about the germinated seeds - you can transplant some in pots if you can provide light for them in the winter.
If not, better discard them since you have more seeds.
The seeds - it doesn't really matter where you keep them until February (for longer term I would say in the fridge). Easier to sow them directly in pots. You can expect few flowers in the first year! (if not in the second for sure).
An absolutely beautiful and rewarding Lilium.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for not laughing!
What threw me is that they started germinating in the fridge.
For the time being I'll pot about ten up and keep them in the enclosed porch to see what happens.
Thanks for the advice.
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Thanks for not laughing!
What threw me is that they started germinating in the fridge.
For the time being I'll pot about ten up and keep them in the enclosed porch to see what happens.
Thanks for the advice.
That's even better meanie, it means they germinate no matter what you do to them :D
You'll have many cute liliums in no time. I only had one pot of seedlings and was enough to share it with 2 friends :)
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thanks Fermi, give you a dry period in summer to all your seedings not sprouted?
Lilium formosanum is really interesting to sow!
some of my germinated seeds in winter have grown up behind a sunny window in the house in late 2015 and this is what I got this year.
it is good to sow also easy species and to have something to watch rather than empty pots ...(I use a translator, and I hope that what I write is understandable ...)
on the other hand, after a year of growth (outside), they did not want to put themselves in vegetative pose, and as they were too tight, I still wanted to divide them in the spring, and I lost some a lot, in fact all those that I transplanted. So do not sow them too tightly.
but I can do it again because I once again have beautiful pods that ripen ...
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thanks Fermi, give you a dry period in summer to all your seedings not sprouted?
Hi Véronique,
No, just the winter-spring growing bulbs which would usually only germinate in autumn/winter,
cheers
fermi
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This tiny seedling has come up in pot labelled "Gentiana georgei" from AGS seedex 2016.
Does it look true?
And what do I do with it now as we head into summer?
cheers
fermi
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This tiny seedling has come up in pot labelled "Gentiana georgei" from AGS seedex 2016.
Does it look true?
And what do I do with it now as we head into summer?
cheers
fermi
Looks like a hairy little thing - so doubt it is true.
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Thanks, Maggi,
Given the time since the seed was sown anything could've seeded itself there :-[
I'll keep it watered through summer and see what it does.
cheers
fermi
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Gametophytes and sporophytes of Equisetum hyemale. These were sown on 1 July 2017. The pictures were taken on 3 August, 2 September and 8 September, respectively.
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Interestingly, I had never seen any gametophytes of equisetum!
Clematis terniflora (if it's good here, next to it are viola) sown in May
Clematis hexapetala
Arum pictum, (1 of 5 seeds sown late January)
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Panax ginseng.
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Sown 18-11-2017 from SRGC Seedex 2015:
1) Trifolium macrocephalum
2) Asperula gussonei
3) Townsendia incana
4) Petunia axillaris
5) Viola arborescens
cheers
fermi
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Another mystery!
From the same batch of seed (SRGC Seedex 2015) I sowed Anagallis monellii but got 2 types of seedlings!
I think the smaller leafed taller ones are the pimpernell, but what are the lower growing ones?
Any suggestions?
cheers
fermi
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I agree that the smaller seedlings are probably the anagallis. The leaf shape is right comparing with mine, currently in flower. The larger ones look a bit like an ajuga maybe?
Sorry no photo but for many years I've looked at our SRGC logo and decided the seed was rubbishy and continued to have a few plants available from cuttings but at the beginning of December decided to sow a few of the fluffy bits anyway as I had a space left in a tray that takes 20 seed pots. Placed the "rubbish" on the mix and covered it with some grit, not too deep and just 10 days later, a couple of green sdlgs appeared. Not obviously a weed I knew - and I know an awful lot of weeds - I left them and within another few days I had over 20 sdlgs, all Dryas octopetala! The cotyledons are deep green and thin and longish, so will collect seed in future as I find the cuttings none too easy to root. High summer here, we've had days and days of temps in the high 20s and low 30s yet seed germination still continues.
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I didn't think that the first germination for the new year would be a gladdie sown in May 2016!
Gladiolus dalenii (green form) NARGS Sdx sown 29-05-2016
cheers
fermi
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[attachimg=1]
1 January - Seeds germinating in seed pans. Pictured is Calochorus splendens.
Also germinating: Lewisia rediviva, Delphinium patens ssp. patens, Penstemon heterodoxus ssp cephalophus, Calochorus luteus, and Calochortus superbus.
[attachimg=2]
California native annuals germinating. Pictured Clarkia concinna ssp. cincinna.
[attachimg=3]
Pictured germinating Layia gaillardioides.
Also germinating: Trifolium willdenovii, Madia glomerata, and Eschscholzia lobbii 'Sun Dew'. :)
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Robert
Did you sow all of them in fall? They are placed outside?. Both question interest me specially for my Calochortus seeds, as well as Lewisia, Clarkia concinna of which have a spare second lot. Thank you.
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Arturo,
Yes, all the seed was sown in the autumn. I place them outside in the coolest place in the garden on a table - bench to keep the slugs away. Sacramento may not be the best location to do this as the winters are too mild. Placing seed pans outside worked well at the farm where winter temperatures are much cooler. I guess I could use the refrigerator, as I have in the past, however I guess I am checking to see what I can get away with. In the past, some seeds would germinate in the refrigerator before I expected them too. I even had a piece of paper on the refrigerator door stating when they went in and when they should come out. The seeds had there own time frame and clearly did not care what was written in a book about them as to when they should germinate. Outside has always worked best for me.
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Cardamine douglassii (purple cress/limestone bittercress) seedlings looking like tiny lily pads. 3.5 inch pot.
James
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Some of the mixed Galanthus ikariae seed received from the Republic of Ireland and sown immediately early July 2017 are on the move :o.... Pic taken a week ago .
Thanks Ashley . ;D
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Looking good Dave 8) The parent plants are emerging now but flower buds have yet to show.
Here at the opposite pole of the growing year galanthus seedlings are also appearing ... & delighting the slugs :P
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A little outside the forums usual field of interest but Litchi chinensis (Lychee) are germinating after just a week...............
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dv8lCFICgC3GTRjG_iKXGj4fm-Y0DyPHA2JK119OOu0VqDuSRSf5NzFXYqxKO_T0-3QF_B4AosRmgdrGEhJCG7JnFNStGSJZC9XkSpdSjxhjcvkCJ6G9x637MnSdc0mo1nDk4PCApVpedqawpX-DvK3HO1lRA-r6bD_yEp58er88pw9DJfzfNoCHQcWcSvoW8EK8zdqrLOtN2hlJWULNyw6T9xxE6YI38Tqv3oWXdtB6v50GaOGMrhvON5zuHWnPJejfkA6CQ1NaufYGnm7eSLulfcNiRbtEyw8CqgNi7C91Kyya3X5PzX4G_jRd0R16stVQH7ru_mSQ947EC3ZQUahtSN4ZO6s0Eg4zLQQmd0Zz4fIrZNdk1IMrEHkRN9HQRecJ0ngBibhdM6bqZAvr-tbyjFdU6pStkDT7WCbdmofUqL0KBOwUt7fb9ziNSWVMRA9Gmv4AMRsrTWN_DXEM86jKNsnposoIttQKL1PanKf-TvONT1_gcl8yFcYdGBjnDBuQCKC9UzeLset2OvglcBOl8fkw2GAbcgqgOxKNhGowXdStERZBOKRXZEBEAlvYFu1rSKEjU8-6vaJdUkBTAGB37lku-ErVLfqHtnI=w800-h532-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/85KTj29-Y4jeNiCWygKWrikPiShaWQn3MVxgKuUlyibsjPhRaJJsidUQLZRRHtoYwjr22e0vZzziTI6nEDDGd19koyE0z0u8GgkQh5wq1cITW1Y0SJr9htsqpJWrEjOjmDnCVpmoEFU98S9NpLTqPJUg9ccDqV_h_QIAQq0r5gl0mVLfSVL_B51RKVddejZClXOTqIYgMIVy0Sj7r9hcRbd5DeRMlYu8L2-khgycBMl9zoonvFbkGmssw7SIzhIxYFUgg3nEbodqyRlSP2PEiD3NoM4hYWNZZTs9tkZIDdfb7SGewmFppA13RJzA-HhH-OQ9X5hh6W_3NhXd-Di3Cdg-dqi859GcIfVZb83xv34OO07rb_C4GeTnwkXpCogVqTVoI82t-D_QgkDRlXWkmJfV-1Qudo-XuSld7KqUfkoKdd0FMZeiPtqzRNAJv0jnI8XoyURNtW4as3xvm4oxA-UeksGh6T5uHrnEcXCs_qYmHEUKhNxEHxRiOv8KXkJ_Z4FLYs7yPjvebSeDs81EpKLdOYeYM19PVAgvN3QT6pvIzBWUqz29LfUTxPU-Ojq34BA7WkZC6NZkNPO0YHirwq8AK_YT1ZlUJE07de4=w505-h608-no)
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[attachimg=1]
Lathyrus vestitus, one of our many California native Lathyrus species.
[attachimg=2]
Delpinium patens ssp. patens. The seed pan was transplanted to a large, deep container filled with a mixture of sand and pumice. Many of our California native Delphinium species thrive in such a soil mix.
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Robert... here are two Californians of today... Langloisia setosissima & Astragalus coccineus
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Two east side, desert species. They must be challenging to grow in your climate? An alpine house is a must? What about light intensity? Anyway, good job! 8) Do you have any other species from this region at maturity? I could learn a few things understanding your results.
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Hello, Robert,
Many more species from this region are not in this year's sowing season. Another native Californian also shows movement... Allium fimbriatum var. fimbriatum. More photos will follow. Now the frost is finally coming and the germination will stagnate.
As far as the cultivation of drought-loving alpines is concerned, I have learned that cold is not a problem. What is more important is permanent protection against moisture. I have all the plants outdoors. But I would like to build a covered plant table. There I would like to cultivate the drought-loving Alpine from all regions in the future.
Also discovered today... Saussurea wellbyi, Daxue - Shan Mountains, SW - China, 4500 m :)
Thomas
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Pelargonium triste
Veltheimia capensis
both sown in mid-January
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No photos but I noticed within 2 days of the cold spell ending here in the Thames valley 4 or 5 seed pots of Trilliums started showing leaves pushing aside the gravel. In their second season since sowing and all west coast species. Hopefully some more pots will show soon. Some Trillium rivale showed a few weeks before the cold spell. Seed from the Trillium-L discussion group.
They are in a sheltered position (a simple frame with just corrugated sheet cover) and were protected from snow; but we only had a few inches over several days anyway, and it all disappeared as soon as the sun came out.
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Here again some seedlings of today...
I'll start with various Asians.
Dracocephalum stamineum + Eremus cristatus.jpg
Goniolimon cuspidatum + Waldheimia tridactylites.jpg
Saussurea.jpg
Smelowskia calycina+Erysimum humillium+Serratula procumbens.jpg
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...continue with North Americans
Astragalus purshii + Mohavea confertiflora.jpg
Olsynium douglasii + Cryptantha abata.jpg
Phacelia sericea + Penstemon nitidus.jpg
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...and finish with Nassauvia glomerulosa and Prometheum sempevivoides (own harvest)
Thomas
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my collection of Gladiolus is growing...
Gladiolus meliusculus jan2018
Gladiolus cunionus jan 2018
Gladiolus splendens
Gladiolus carneus
Gladiolus atroviolaceus, janv 2017
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Gladiolus saundersonii, janv2018
Gladiolus watermeryii, janv 2018 : a single seedling fine as a hair: I do not dare to imagine the size of the bulb at the end of this first season of growth ..
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Sidalcea glaucescens
Dreaming of late summer flowers in our garden. :)
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Ribes lasianthum
Our Sierra Nevada Ribes species have interesting flowers very early in the late winter. The fruit is attractive and attracts wildlife to the garden. It will be awhile before any are ready to plant out.
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Here again some seedlings of today...Part 1 (North and South America)
Senecio gilliesii + Gutierrezia baccharoides + Calceolaria germanii.jpg
Fritillaria recurva + Gaillardia aristata + Frtillaria pudica.jpg
Townsendia 2018.jpg
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Part 2 (Asia)
Dracocephalum oblongifolium + Pyrethrum leontopodium + Dracocephalum paulsenii.jpg
Chesneya nikitinae + Acantholimon hedinii + Convolvulus calvertii.jpg
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Rhodiola stephanii: 2007 Berkutenko seed, but still almost 100% germination!
James
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Rhodiola stephanii: 2007 Berkutenko seed, but still almost 100% germination!
Good result!
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James, that's wonderful!
But would you kindly tell us the most important part of your finding:
- How was the seed stored for all those years?
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James, that's wonderful!
But would you kindly tell us the most important part of your finding:
- How was the seed stored for all those years?
Yay! Million dollar question!
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James, that's wonderful!
But would you kindly tell us the most important part of your finding:
- How was the seed stored for all those years?
In a tiny polyethylene zippy bag, inside a larger polyethylene zippy bag with a few packets of silica gel (=bone dry) in a refrigerator drawer at approximately 1° C. :)
James
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Aquilegia buergeriana var. oxysepala
Leucogenes grandiceps
Poa buchananii
Rhododendron camchaticum
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My small Mexican collection. Eryngium and Draba were collected at high alt. in Nevado de Toluca, it will be interesting to see how they'll do here. All warm germinators.
Draba jorullensis
Bomarea hirtella (syn. B. edulis)
Eryngium proteiflorum
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I couldn't find any pictures of Hydrangea seedlings online, so here's H. arborescens. About two weeks from sowing to germination, and maybe a hair over 1 mm wide at the moment.
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I couldn't find any pictures of Hydrangea seedlings online, so here's H. arborescens. About two weeks from sowing to germination, and maybe a hair over 1 mm wide at the moment.
Faster to germinate than I would have thought - just one of today's lessons for me!
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Alonsoa warscewiczii
there are mucus glands and an insect remainder
is it known to be a protocarnivorous plant?
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sometimes a seed changes its pot to germinate in a neighboring pot; it's almost systematic at home with Roscoea, for example!
I suspect some ants that steal or move the seeds ..
is it possible with Aconit? that sometimes explains that there is no germination if we have to keep the pots for a long time.
I have a young plant sprouted in a pot that is not his ... could it be an aconitum, what do you think? it seems to be a ranunculaceae
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Veronique, do you have any Delphiniums near by? that is what most resembles in my image memory. Delphs are ranunculaceae.
Arturo
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sometimes a seed changes its pot to germinate in a neighboring pot; it's almost systematic at home with Roscoea, for example!
I suspect some ants that steal or move the seeds ..
is it possible with Aconit? that sometimes explains that there is no germination if we have to keep the pots for a long time.
I have a young plant sprouted in a pot that is not his ... could it be an aconitum, what do you think? it seems to be a ranunculaceae
Roscoea species have seeds with arils Véronique and thus are attractive to ants, like many other such species.
I think Arturo is right, you may have a Delphinium growing in that pot.
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Thank you Stefan :) Here is A. anthora growing in Bucegi Massif (SE Carpathian Mts). I never travel that late in the fall to be able to collect seeds.
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My pictures were taken in Croatia and the plants were found by chance when we were looking for Fritillaria montana and Lilium carniolicum seeds.
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Galanthus seed received from Ireland sown July last year are on the 'go'. I tipped out a little of the potting mix as you do ;D to gain a better appreciation of the numbers germinating .
Thanks Ashley.
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Same for G. seed received and sown in 2016 from Finland.... as well as showing a few second year growths .
Thanks Leena .
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Cheers Dave.
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One of the things I have learned from joining the SRGC is that most plants can be propagated from seed, even if you never see any seedlings in your garden, it's just that conditions for germination are not OK in your garden. So now I experiment from time to time - and not only with garden ornamentals - and am often delighted with the results.
So, when I saw that my Populus Trichocarpa are releasing their seeds I collected a handfull of the cotton under the trees and have sown these immediately. That was last Sunday late afternoon. The seeds need light for germination, so I just placed the cotton on top of a pot filled with sowing compost. To mimic the natural growing environment of wet river banks the pot was placed in a saucer that I keep filled with water, the seeds received every morning a splash of water from the top also.
We are now Wednesday morning (about 3 days after sowing) and many seeds have already germinated. An ideal plant for hurried gardeners I would say beating in germination speed any other plant that I know, but not suited to the smaller gardens (even if your garden is indeed very high) and even less for rock gardens.
Probably these seedlings all are hybrids with other poplars because as far as I can see I only have female Populus Trichocarpa growing here.
Anyway, always fun to do :)
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That was QUICK!! :D
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It's the kind of tree that doesn't waste any time to grow. They are the earliest poplars to be in leaf in spring, and the last ones to shed off their leaves in fall. When young they easily grow 2 meter per year. I read somewhere that seedlings can grow to more than 50 cm in their first year.
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I would imagine Salix seed would be similar, as their shelf life is extremely short. I tried once with Salix repens, but no luck.....
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A couple more from SRGC Seedex 2017 sown in April 2018:
Agave harvardiana
Delphinium uliginosum
cheers
fermi
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I would imagine Salix seed would be similar, as their shelf life is extremely short. I tried once with Salix repens, but no luck.....
There are lots of salix caprea over here and every year their seeds are whirling down in my pots. They take on average a about 2 weeks to germinate - very slow compared to this poplar - but given the situation they are also sown extremely fresh. Since the salix seeds are shed off earlier in the year they can afford to be just a bit slower maybe ? As for germination conditions, they are sitting on top of the soil receiving plenty of light, and as I water the pots regularly they are sitting on a constantly moist soil.
If you sow salix, keep in mind some salix do not resist to be root bound in their pots, neither do they survive a transplantation. In particular in my experience salix alba, salix fragilis and crossings between these two need in fact to be sown immediately on their final growing place. Funny enough, those willows can be propagated extremely easily by cuttings. Salix caprea can be transplanted with a lot of root damage without being harmed.
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Gentiana caelestris, Gentiana depressa and Phemeranthus sediformis
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Some more germinations this season:
1) Fritillaria davisii (thanks, Paul & Colin :) )
2) Calochortus venustus SRGC Sdx 2017
3) Muscari inconstrictum (thanks, Ashley :) )
4) Iris unguicularis cretensis - Marcus Harvey ?wild collected 2013??
cheers
fermi
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Hi Fermi, I'm very interested in your germination schedules because they reflect the southern hemisphere. I suspect I would have to add at least a full month here to achieve the same results. Could you please let me know when were your seeds sown?. I assume you gave them outside stratification; am I right?. I'm trying out actually the four genera mentioned and trying to figure out the stratification needs, either outside or in the fridge. I still have 12 or more weeks before outside temp highs rise beyond 12ºC. Lows will oscillate in -3ºC/-4ºC with occasional lows down to -6ºC/-7º at least until September. So I have the option of leaving my pots in a sheltered position outside all this time taking advantage of winter temp oscillations,or place them inside a cool greenhouse where frosts will hardly go below -2ºC. Perhaps in some cases I might be a bit late with my Seedex '71 seeds. I thank you in advance for any advice in any direction. Arturo
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Hi Arturo,
I try to sow these sorts of seeds by the end of autumn and leave the pots outside so that they benefit from a cold spell to help germination.
Our winter temperatures usually drop to -2oC to -4oC, though last year it did get down to -7oC, so not too dissimilar to yours. I would think that the cool greenhouse might be a safe option as some seedlings are susceptible to really low temperatures. I had to move the pot of agave seedlings to the shadehouse as I think the first seedlings got caught by the frost, so even if they benefit from low temps to germinate the seedlings may be killed by frost. I don't have a glass house so just move the seedlings under shade-cloth. I haven't tried any other forms of stratification or sowing indoors.
I hope this helps,
cheers
fermi
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Back in April a tray of recently sown seedpots fell off the bench :o so I scraped up what I could into a foam box and hoped for the best!
By late May a few seedlings started to appear and there appear to be tulips, ixias and other irids. But I won't know what they are until them flower!
cheers
fermi
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Just germinated opuntia seed for the first time.
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Really don’t understand why it turns my photos sideways all the time. They are portrait in my album and even in the tiny preview thing before it goes live. Puts me off doing them here. I know you help by turning them somehow Maggi, but you shouldn’t have to, and if you can, why can’t I?
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I only know what I've said before - it does seem that when I take them into my machine I can rotate them - I dunno why!
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Just germinated optunia seed for the first time.
I’ve never seen cactus seedlings before! How neat!
(I’m glad you posted it, despite the rotating issue!)
Kelly
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It’s really weird Maggi. I’m using an iPhone to take the photos and my iPad Air when I upload them. I tried the large option too to see if that made any difference but sadly no.
Hi Kelly,
Yes, I’ve never germinated cactus seed before either, so I have been fascinated to see how they develop. Optunia is supposed to be hardier, so I am going to try it outside. Luckily there are 5 so I will still have more if the first attempt fails. I think the trick is drainage, so here’s hoping ...
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Cactus seedlings are very cute.
I think we are talking about Opuntia here?
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We are Gabriela. I understand it is Hardy in North America ...
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I don’t know about the rest of North America, but apparently Opuntia fragilis is native to western Washington (much to my surprise!), among other areas, and some species of opuntia are grown in Seattle and Portland, Oregon. Seattle is zone 8b, Portland can get slightly colder, I believe. I hear the issue here is drainage, especially during our very wet winters.
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There are a few Opuntia species natives to Western USA and Canada, all quite cold resistant and Opuntia humifusa from the southern part, with its northern limit here in Ontario (zone 5).
Of course good drainage is a must.
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Opuntia polycantha, presumably, was quite common when we were exploring Wyoming before the NARGS conference on 2016. Not the friend of ranchers, well the cattle anyway.
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I’ve never seen cactus seedlings before! How neat!
Echinocereus reichenbachii
The cotyledons disappear quickly under the growing cacti.
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[attachimg=4]
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A couple more SRGC Sdx 2017 sown 15-04-2018
Calochortus vestae
Delphinium nuttallianum
cheers
fermi
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Taraxacum albidum, from fresh seed of my own. Dried 3 days, then planted. The two pots that I covered the seed with soil have yet to emerge. These were uncovered, except a light top dress of #1 granite grit. One came up early, in about 5-6 weeks? (I stopped diligently checking after one month.) All the rest emerged in 8 weeks. This did coincide with a week of cooler weather (24-30C highs), after a month of warm (30-35C).
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Taraxacum albidum, from fresh seed of my own....
And hopefully no "helpful" person comes along and weeds them out!
::)
Back in reply #948 I posted pics of the "community seed-box" after a mishap.
I'm hoping that these deep green leaves are seedlings of a Sternbergia hybrid which I got from Kurt Vickery
cheers
fermi
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Am I being delusional to think that one of these two seedlings could be a gentian?
Seed-label says: Gentiana verna alba sown in 2004
cheers
fermi
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Sorry I can't give a reliable ID but you certainly deserve one Fermi, after 14 years waiting :o ;D
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And hopefully no "helpful" person comes along and weeds them [Taraxacum albidum] out!
::)
Whenever my garden is on tour, the description in the write up always begins with: "Please don't pull the weeds! I grow alpine dandelions and other weedy subjects." In fact, Fibigia clypeata is one of the most favorably commented on plants in the garden!
[attachimg=1]
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Tulipa regelii. Own seed of this year. 05/26/2018 sown. Then 6 weeks in the refrigerator.
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Great, ebbie. I suppose you have had more than one flowering plant and cross pollinated it?
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No, I had only one plant. Tulipa regelii is obviously self-fertile.
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Sorry I can't give a reliable ID but you certainly deserve one Fermi, after 14 years waiting :o ;D
Hi Ashley,
I had actually oversown it with a monocot a few years ago but that didn't germinate either!
Here are some (hopefully) more reliably labelled seedlings!
1) Penstemon azureus - Alplains seed 2017 sown 24-03-2018 first seedling late July
2) Crocus rhodensis - Marcus Harvey via Jacqui 2017 sown 14-04-2018 first seedling 22-07-18
3) Fritillaria stribrnyi - Paul & Colin via Roy P 2017 sown 9-04-2018 first seedling 22-07-2018
4) Fritillaria rixii - P & C sown 5-04-2018 first seedling 6-08-2018
5) Fritillaria ehrhartii - P & C sown 9-04-2018 first seedling 2-08-2018
cheers
fermi
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An aside : interestingly enough, fermi's "sideways" thumbnails are righting themselves on my screen when I enlarge them!
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Hi Maggi,
I was going to ask for your help but when I clicked on the thumbnail it righted itself!
And yes, the originals were on their sides
cheers
fermi
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Sorry I can't give a reliable ID but you certainly deserve one Fermi, after 14 years waiting :o ;D
Hi Ashley,
one reason I try to be patient with some seeds is that years after sowing conditions may suddenly be right for germination:
1) Iris pumila AGS Sdx 2011
2) Iris barnumae from M. Kammerlander via Otto, sown 15-06-2008
cheers
fermi
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Iris xiphium seed from Rafa in 2017, 33 sown 27-04-17, only one germination last year but more than 20 this year!
cheers
fermi
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Muscari pallens from Ashley, sown 27-04-18; first seedling 7-09-18
Scilla libanotica, from Ashley, sown 27-04-18; first seedling 25-08-18
Tulipa ulophylla, from Kurt Vickery, sown 27-03-18; first seedling 12-08-18
Camassia quamash from Goteborg, sown 27-03-18; first seedling 27-08-18
Mertensia lanceolata from Alplains, sown 14-04-18; first seedling 17-05-18
cheers
fermi
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So sorry Fermi but I think you are having a delusional moment with the seedling. Even allowing for the enlargement of the photo it looks much too big to be Gentiana verna. To be truthful if I saw it in my own seed pot I'd be saying "blast, another gorse (or broom) bush. Hopefully it won't be either of those.
I have quite a lot of experience with both blue and white G. verna, and very recently, with the lovely violet form we saw in the Czech Republic, the seed of which was sent to me by a kindly Dutch gentleman. In all 3 cases and without exception, G. verna germinates for me in August. If it isn't sown by February (when summer is hottest) it doesn't germinate until August in the following year and much less of it! Unfortunately my final plant of the white died this last summer so there will be no seed for a couple of years until last year's seedlings grow enough to flower, hopefully next year. I'll send you seed as soon as possible. Blue too if you like. That's in full bud now but, needless to say, won't be out for the OAGG show on the 29th Sept.
My camera has reached the end of its life and I hope to get another pre-Christmas but in the meantime I'm using my phone camera an haven't worked out how to put its photos here but if I post a couple to Facebook, Maggi may work her magic and put them here.
I don't remember where my Muscari pallens came from but it is my favourite of the genus, with lavender-blue flowers on deep red stems, a lovely thing. You will like it very much.
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Lesley's Gentiana verna seedling pots ......
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Gentiana verna
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Gentiana verna - white Burren form
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A few SA bulb seedlings. Last year's but a relief to see them up again (mostly) this year :)
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I just spotted it in the seedings... Oxytropis sericea. 🙄
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it's always nice to rediscover a forgotten seed pot, and that growing, is not it?
here to encourage sowers:
here is a pot of Tricyrtis hirta sown this spring. the plant, although still miniature (10 cm high), already blooming this autumn.[attachimg=2][attachimg=1]
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I'd just seen a post by Janis of Crocus gilanicus on Sept 29 and when I checked the seed-pots the next day I found 2 tiny green spears! (pic1)
Today I found another half a dozen! They obviously picked up on the "vibe" from that great crocus grower in Latvia ;D
cheers
fermi
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Narcissus nivalis just germinating having been sown 27-04-2018.
When I visited Cork a few years ago I had taken some seeds to swap with Ashley. However I found that I'd inadvertently brought along some bulblets of Narcissus nivalis :o which I'd grown from seed from Rafa. As I couldn't risk taking them back into Australia I gave them to Ashley and later he sent me seed (I presume from those bulbs) which have now germinated! A bit circuitous but once again I have Narcissus nivalis growing ;D
cheers
fermi
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Yes that seed was from your bulbs Fermi, so maybe leave them at home next time you travel ;) ;D
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I just spotted it in the seedings... Oxytropis sericea. 🙄
That is wondrous-looking rock in the background. Like when you make hokey pokey. You've made the toffee and then you stir in the baking soda and it looks just like that when you spread it out on a baking sheet. Then when it's cold you break it up and eat it!
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That is wondrous-looking rock in the background. Like when you make hokey pokey. You've made the toffee and then you stir in the baking soda and it looks just like that when you spread it out on a baking sheet. Then when it's cold you break it up and eat it!
That's right... Lesley.
I know this sweet delicacy from my childhood. The resemblance is amazing.
I bought these stones in an aquarium shop. They are actually used to create terrariums. I like the rough structure and the colour. They are slightly alkaline and come from Iran.
My plan is to construct a roofed area for plants that love dryness. Until then they will serve as a background for photos outside the rock garden.
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Clematis integrifolia 'Mongolian Bells' - very pleased to see these!
When we were at the 3rd International Czech Rock Garden Conference Panayoti Kelaidis showed a pic of these growing in Denver and said that they were part of the range of plants released by the DBG in conjunction with a commercial nursery. I was rapt to see seed available on last year's NARGS Seedex :D
I hope I get get them to flowering size safely!
cheers
fermi
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Alstroemeria patagonica from SRGC Seedex 2013, sown 7-07-2013.
I noticed a shoot on 4-10-2018! Is it true to name?
Any hints about the best way to get it to survive and flower? (does Martin Sheader read this section ??? ;D )
cheers
fermi
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Alstroemeria patagonica from SRGC Seedex 2013, sown 7-07-2013.
I noticed a shoot on 4-10-2018! Is it true to name?
Any hints about the best way to get it to survive and flower? (does Martin Sheader read this section ??? ;D )
cheers
fermi
Wow... I congratulate you on this botanical treasure... Fermi. The fact that you managed to germinate after such a long time gives me courage and hope. I also have some extravagant seeds in pots where nothing is to be seen yet. So you should never give up. Your patience has been rewarded.
My research so far says...sunny, dry, permeable sandy substrate. Opportunity some water. Retreats after flowering. The rhizomes can grow very deep into the soil.
But Mr. Martin Sheader can certainly provide better information.
In the appendix a picture from the past. However, I buy this specimen as an adult plant.
Further much success...
Thomas
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Fermi, I would suggest pricking it into a deep pot. The rhyzomes are very brittle and difficult to move about later. Most Alstroemerias live in open screes in full sun. Exceptionally my A.aurantium needs some dappled shade. ( Its an open woodland edge species).
Arturo
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Thanks, Thomas and Arturo,
I wonder if I should plant it out straight away if I can devise a suitable bed for it?
cheers
fermi
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Yes Fermi, if you have that possibility it will possibly fare best. Once settled in a good place they may soon show up further side shoots as the rhyzome spreads out. The quicker you allow the plant to settle in a final position the better. Arturo
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Hi Fermi
I'm afraid I'm not a specialist. More like a beginner. But if you have the possibility for a separate bed, which fulfills the necessary requirements, you can try to realize this treasure carefully. However, I would wait a little longer. Until the above-ground parts of the plant have slightly enlarged.
I read here again and again of successful germination after many years. Therefore a question to all... how do you keep these pots and how is the supply over such a long period of time? Do you just leave such seeds to yourself? As already mentioned, I have some such candidates from all the awards. For me these pots are covered with a cover against heavy rain and are occasionally poured a little. I know about the sometimes very long chance of survival of some seeds. Especially the high alpine species, New Zealanders and from dry regions.
So...if someone has some advice...I am thankful for every hint.
Thomas
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First Sternbergia seedlings for me (lutea plus greuteriana in the same pot) from SRGC Seedex of last year; I kept and sowed them only in August.
Very exciting!! I know they can be grown here, the summers are super hot, just a matter of finding the perfect drained spot.
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Germinating now, Cirsium occidentale var. venustum. I gathered this seed from Colusa County, California two years ago. This area was severely burned over during the Mendocino Complex Fire this year. Despite the fire, I hope to return to this area, including Snow Mountain (also burned in the Mendocino Complex Fire) sometime in the future.
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The results of seed sowing. :)
A seedling of Cirsium occidentale (variety not known at this time) growing in our garden. I gathered this seed in Alpine County, California several years ago. The silvery foliage is beginning to develop in the center of the rosette. 8)
The seed was gathered from plants growing on bone dry, exposed, south facing rocky slopes near Monitor Pass. This species thrives in our garden without summer irrigation.
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After only a few weeks underground, life is already showing...Nassauvia glomerulosa.
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...also these two Mulinum - species show premature hesitant movement in the pot. Sowed 25.02.18
Top pix M. microphyllum M. albovaginatum
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Andryala agardhii sown on 17-01-2019! I don't usually sow seeds like these at this time of year but these were from a fresh seed-head
cheers
fermi
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Wow... I congratulate you on this beautiful high alpine. Exactly to my taste. Good luck with it.
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Helleborus thibetanus. Seeds from Bjørnar/Chinese Alpines (W/O-8006 and 8007) sown 23 May 2018.
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Perezia recurvata and Townsendia spathulata.
My first germinated pots of many I hope! Only sown 5 weeks ago, am surprised to see Perezia recurvata come up so quickly and early but I have never tried it before! The other smaller seedlings are of Townsendia spathulata which I received from the AGS seed exchange.
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Cardiocrinum cordatum var. glenhii, planted 21 September 2018.
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It has been ‘warm’ (6-8 °C) with brilliant sunshine for the last week, so I have switched from heating my greenhouse, to keep it frost free, to opening it up to try and keep it cool. In my haste to move a tray full of pots to a shadier spot, I tipped over my 2 pots of Eranthis seeds. The top coat of gravel fell out, but the compost held firm, as did the tiny seedlings which were struggling to get to the light. I’m not sure if they were under too much gravel, and would never have made it without my accident (but I’ve convinced myself that I have saved them ;)).
Sown on 23 May 2018.
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Eranthis stellata (W/O-8004)
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Eranthis albiflora (W/O-8009)
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Townsendia spathulata is supposedly one of the difficult townsendias. I never had a problem with it as a young plant, but these are the only ones that have died from too much moisture here in Minnesota, USA, out of the five species I've grown.
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Some warm days show effect...😎
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Like 'barnclos' I sowed Helleborus thibetanus seed W/O 8006 from Chinese Alpines in May. Shoots appeared in January and the attached photo was taken on February 22nd. Some of the old posts in the 'grow from seed' forum pages suggest a long germination period is required. My seeds were sown in a fairly well-draining compost and kept rather wet. They were left outside in North Yorks through prolonged rain and through some sharp frosts and snow. I have 18 of these seedlings from one packet of seed and so assume the conditions were quite suitable.
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Hepatica 'Selma'. Seed from Anne Wright. Hope the colour is as good as the original.
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Two more new comers...
Eriogonum niveum
Trifolium macrocephalum
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Some seedlings of today...
Tonestus lyallii
Senecio incanus ssp. incanus
Pyrethrum karelinii
Lupinus lepidus
Erigeron poliospermus
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Part Two...
Eriameria resinosa
Antennaria dimorpha
Delphinium nuttalianum
Balsamorhiza sagittata
Astragalus purshii
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Also with the Townsendias some movement comes into play...further follow ;D
Townsendia spathulata
Townsendia spec. "Pink"
Townsendia leptodes
Townsendia hookeri
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Today I found more seedlings...
Erysium roseum
Delphinium spec.
Eremurus tianschanicus
The last two were sown last season...patience sometimes pays off. 😊
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Hello Thomas, congratulations for your very many germinations! Can I ask when did you sow your Eremurus t.? Did you only give it cold stratification or did you also add a warm period prior to the cold? Thank You very much!
arturo
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perhaps the date on the labels is the sowing date ?
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Hello Thomas, congratulations for your very many germinations! Can I ask when did you sow your Eremurus t.? Did you only give it cold stratification or did you also add a warm period prior to the cold? Thank You very much!
arturo
Hello Arturo
Nice to hear from you again. I sowed this Eremurus tianschanicus on 20.12.17. At the top of the label you will always find the date of sowing.
All further details (name, place of discovery, sea level, etc.) below. On the back I still write the origin of the seeds...
This Eremurus did not germinate last spring... so I kept the pots together with countless others. So after the winter these seeds also got the extreme temperatures of last summer. Some water was administered. Maybe this warm phase was the decisive aspect for the germination... I don't know.
So I don't just have to control the current sowing, but also the 2018's...
Even the seeds I got from you last year show some movement in the pots. I hope to discover new seedlings this weekend.
Thomas
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Please, everyone: remember to label your pics in the message text box (not just the file name)
Otherwise, they are not searchable!!!
Astragalus missouriensis from wild seed collected in Minnesota, USA. Scarified seed began emerging in 11 days at 18°C.
[attachimg=1]
Iberis aurosica f. nana. Seed began emerging in 9 days at 18°C.
[attachimg=2]
Sedum hybridum ex Kazakhstan. Seed began emerging in 13 days at 18°C.
[attachimg=3]
An interesting experiment with Taraxacum albidum last year. I used fresh seed, dried for 3 days. All lots planted 29 May 18, and given same care. Two pots in each scenario:
-- With light (surface planted with thin cover of grit), seedlings emerged in 45 days.
-- Without light (planted 2-3mm deep with 5-10mm grit layer), seedlings emerged in 77 days, but twice as many.
Germination was very uniform in all pots.
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
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Hello Rick
Thank you very much for the hint...I will add the botanical names as soon as possible... sorry.
Your experiment with sowing Taraxacum albidum is very interesting.
Thomas
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Calochortus tolmei, germinated in the fridge over winter and now put onto soil
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New week...new seedlings.
Lomatocarpa albomarginata
Geum triflorum
Eriogonum umbellatum "orange "
Eriogonum strictum
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Part Two
Polemonium confertum
Polemonium viscosum
Phacelia campanularia
Papaver alboroseum
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I don't often post photos of seedlings, but this one is very special for me.
Fritillaria carica, from the late Marcus Harvey. It was sown on november 2015.
also Muscari atlanticum, Tulipa raddii and Paeonia clusii
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Findings of today...
Aster flaccidus
Tragopogon spec.
Gutierrezia baccheroides
Townsendia condensata
Phacelia sericea
Besseya wyomingensis
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Tulipa raddii
Just curious of where you found the seeds. T. raddii is a triploid and is said to be sterile (mine didn't set seeds even hand pollinated).
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from a swap with the Geneva botanical garden.
Triploids species can set seeds, off course vegetative division is the main way.
CBN of Porquerolles also had seeds in its index seminum in 2015-2016
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Ok, thanks for the details. It's not only my T. raddii that are sterile, my observation are anecdotic but I read it in several reports and scientific publications. It would be interesting to see the plant in flower.
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It set seeds but only 10-20% to get viable bulbils. The rest will perish due to dna disorder. I've 4 pots full of seeds? If i can keep 10 bulbs i'll be very happy. Geneva BG got last year a 23% rate of good bulbils.
Same happens with clusiana, for 3 years i wasn't able to get reliable seeds. In 2016 a pod produce good seeds. And i think the same happens with triploids species.
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In a weak moment, apparently in July 2017, I sowed some of my own Dodecatheon seed in an old half seed tray, with no doubt just some odd soil I had around. Recently they seem all to have germinated but in only ~15mm of soil depth now.
[attachimg=1]
I have only seen Dodecatheon/ Shooting Stars in the wild on NARGS trips in lush wet spring meadows in Alta in Utah, along with the striking Pedicularis groenlandica
[attachimg=2]
or in spring snow flushes in Wyoming,
[attachimg=3]
where presumably the rosettes disappear as soon as the water dries up. In my, relatively dry garden, only the seed stems hang around for long after flowering. I recall they have star fish like root systems. Any advice as to how I might treat these seedlings, now, or in the near future? I can feed a little but they have very little soil to grow in at present. Will they go into dormancy if I let them dry off too much in the process of separation? I could wash them out and prick out in very wet soil, but at what stage, and when, might they be ready for individual pots, singly or in “bunches”?
Anyone grow them in a grass lawn in Europe? They would disappear quite quickly in late spring.
Thanks.
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Hi Brian,
Do you know the species?
Even without a species name, where the seed originated would be helpful.
This information may be very helpful to those offering advice.
Good luck with your seedlings. They look like they are doing well.
Our Dodecatheon (Primula) hendersonii are still blooming here in California. The late forms have not even started yet. They look great. :) As a side note, I doubt that your Dodecatheon are D. hendersonii, which is a xeric species native to California and Western North America.
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Not too clear but you can just make out the label as 'Red Wings'. A Dodecatheon pulchellum variety fairly common in the UK, presumably usually grown from seed, not division. Not obvious in the photo but in the one surrounded by soil there is clear running water flowing passed the plants on a ~1 in 3 slope. I saw them in other places on that trip in just the same sloping habitat, very wet. I just happened to be in the same place 10 years before when the season was different and there were Fritillaries in flower on the same slope; but then dry, on the surface at least.
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A few exciting germinations for me so far!
Androsace ciliata
[attachimg=1]
Androsace robusta ssp. purpurea
[attachimg=2]
Dionysia involucrata (AGS seed)
[attachimg=3]
Eritrichium cf. rupestre
[attachimg=4]
Perezia recurvata
[attachimg=5]
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more...
Viola jooi (AGS) [attachimg=1]
Viola tianschanica[attachimg=2]
and lastly, if these tincy wincy cotelydons are what I think they are, Ive got a hard job on my hands...
Saxifraga wardii[attachimg=3]
exciting times ahead, if they survive hahaha.
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I know what you mean, Alex, getting the seeds to germinate is immensely satisfying and fun - but the champagne is best kept for when the plants start flowering and making their own seed! Mind you, since that road is such an uncertain one, most of us are happy to have a celebration at this stage - such a lift to the spirit when the first growth is spotted!
I can never understand why some folk never grow plants from seed - they don't know what they're missing!
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I know what you mean, Alex, getting the seeds to germinate is immensely satisfying and fun - but the champagne is best kept for when the plants start flowering and making their own seed! Mind you, since that road is such an uncertain one, most of us are happy to have a celebration at this stage - such a lift to the spirit when the first growth is spotted!
I can never understand why some folk never grow plants from seed - they don't know what they're missing!
Maggi... I agree with you on all points. It is a small feast when the seeds germinate...therefore here the finds of this weekend.
Cremanthodium rhodocephalum
Douglasia laevigata var ciliolata
Silene hookeri
Thlaspi minimum
Physaria reediana
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Douglasia nivalis (Chumstick Form)
Nassauvia revoluta
Arnebia euchroma
Puschkinia scilloides
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I am particularly happy about seven healthy seedlings of Lupinus lepidus... the seeds come from a plant from quite high altitude... so I hope that the offspring will also remain very small.
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Thomas,
There are many documented varieties of Lupinus lepidus. Variety lobbii is a real gem and one of the smaller varieties. There can be issues with predation from insects, slugs and snails outside their native environment.
The seedlings look good. Good luck and may you successfully bring them to blooming age. :)
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Thomas,
There are many documented varieties of Lupinus lepidus. Variety lobbii is a real gem and one of the smaller varieties. There can be issues with predation from insects, slugs and snails outside their native environment.
The seedlings look good. Good luck and may you successfully bring them to blooming age. :)
Hi Robert
Lupinus lepidus var. lobbii is a real treasure. From 8 seeds I could win 7 young plants. I have countless fantastic photos of this gem from different locations. My source told me that almost no seeds have been found in the last two years. Therefore I am very happy about the successful germination. This form is very variable not only in the growth height... also the colour is a little bit different.
I could show many more photos of great young plants... but I don't want to bore the people here.
By the way... I have many wonderful young plants of Penstemon newberryi var newberryi... the seeds I got from a friend from northern California... his name is Robert... maybe you know him... ;D ;D ;D
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Hi Robert
I could show many more photos of great young plants... but I don't want to bore the people here.
By the way... I have many wonderful young plants of Penstemon newberryi var newberryi... the seeds I got from a friend from northern California... his name is Robert... maybe you know him... ;D ;D ;D
So do I, also from the same source... ;D
Arturo
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The first young plants of this year's sowing were pricked. More will follow... hopefully not all at once.
;-)
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Your Lupinus seedlings look very happy and healthy Thomas. And I particularly like the background against which you've photographed them. They'll be wanting some of that rock when you plant them out. :)
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Your Lupinus seedlings look very happy and healthy Thomas. And I particularly like the background against which you've photographed them. They'll be wanting some of that rock when you plant them out. :)
Thank you dear Lesley...
actually I am very grateful for the good quota of this small growing Lupinus. 8 seeds...7 young plants. Also the other seeds germinated very well...luckily not all of them...otherwise it would be too much. With the native NZ I would wish myself of course a larger quota. :-)
...but I will wait patiently.
Until the stones find their actual destination, it will still take some time. I also like this structure very much.
Greetings
Thomas
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Do you belong to NZAGS Thomas? Their seedlist will be out soon and I think there will be some good natives. I was given some seed last month of Aciphylla dobsonii (and a seedling :)) and I think the collector (Hamish Brown who is President) will have given more to NZAGS for the list.
I had a horrible dream last night about the seed and couldn't think what I had done with it. I dreamed I had lost it somewhere and though I looked everywhere I could think of, I couldn't find it. This morning I went to search my potting shed and found, to my great relief that I had sown it, the day after Hamish gave it to me. We are having a beautiful Indian summer with warm days and cool nights. It should be ideal weather for germination.
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Do you belong to NZAGS Thomas? Their seedlist will be out soon and I think there will be some good natives. I was given some seed last month of Aciphylla dobsonii (and a seedling :)) and I think the collector (Hamish Brown who is President) will have given more to NZAGS for the list.
I had a horrible dream last night about the seed and couldn't think what I had done with it. I dreamed I had lost it somewhere and though I looked everywhere I could think of, I couldn't find it. This morning I went to search my potting shed and found, to my great relief that I had sown it, the day after Hamish gave it to me. We are having a beautiful Indian summer with warm days and cool nights. It should be ideal weather for germination.
Yes, Lesley... I've been a member of NZAGS for three years. Getting precious seeds from native alpine NZ once a year is a welcome bonus... but the membership was more for emotional reasons... After all, NZ's alpine flora was my entry drug into the world of plants.
I hope no medicine will ever be found against this beautiful addiction. 😀
Good luck with the Aciphylla seeds.
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what a beautiful seedling!
the installation with the fence is against the slugs?
a very amazing sowing by its vigor here with Arisaema tortuosum var helleborifolium: 8 seeds out of 9 sprouts and seedlings more than 10 cm high!
they already produce a second sheet ...
[attachimg=1]
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what a beautiful seedling!
the installation with the fence is against the slugs?
a very amazing sowing by its vigor here with Arisaema tortuosum var helleborifolium: 8 seeds out of 9 sprouts and seedlings more than 10 cm high!
they already produce a second sheet ...
(Attachment Link)
Vèronique...This net is used for shading...at night it hangs down and keeps the snails away. This provisional construction does not correspond to the beauty sensation of my better half...but it is effective...you have to set priorities. ;-)
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Cyclamen mirabile sown fresh 3 months ago are now germinating
cheers
fermi
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Dryas octopetala and Pulsatilla patens
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Both from fresh seed, I presume?
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Yes. fresh seeds, Dryas cool, outside,
Pulsatilla warm/hot in day, cool at night in greenhouse, soil without humus.
Bernd
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Here is another attempt to cultivate South Americans...
Leucheria candidissima
Lecanophora ameghinoi
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Lewisia rediviva
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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Iris histrioides germinating from AGS Seedex seed sown in 2006!
cheers
fermi
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16 years....
Shouldn't there be some kind of award for that kind of patience?
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There should indeed! I was given some fresh seed of I. histrioides 'Major' early last year. I sowed immediately in the garden itself and had excellent germination an a couple of months. When I lifted the little bulbs to pot them on, they were a good centimetre in diameter and 1.5 tall. I think it was because with soil under them there were no restrictions on their growing room.
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My most recent planting (and the only successful one) of Iris histriodes came up in the second season. But they didn't grow nearly that much! :(
Isn't it interesting, the little hook at the top of the first leaf....
[attachimg=1]
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My most recent planting (and the only successful one) of Iris histriodes came up in the second season....
Isn't it interesting, the little hook at the top of the first leaf....
Rick,
I had to go back to the full sized image of mine to check if it had that little hook and it appears to be there!
Here's the first signs of germination on the pot of Bellevalia tabriziana sown in April last year, a kind gift from Ashley
cheers
fermi
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This iris didn't take as long as the Iris histrioides ;)
Seed from Marcus Harvey in 2017 (per kind favour of Jacqui) of Iris wilmottiana sown in April 2017, 3 germinating this week! :)
cheers
fermi
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Magnar,
I have a white glacidium, I will send you seed if you like. They are just about ready now.
Marianne Kuchel
Fairlee VT
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No photos but but cutting off hellebore leaves today I found newly germinated seedlings of hellebores (x hybrida) and Tulipa sprengeri. I was a bit slow with the dead heading last year. Crawling under Rosa 'Nevada' and Berberis 'Rose Glow' isn't much fun. Then there's Chaenomeles 'Nicoline' which is really vicious. She's covered in buds so I can't cut her back just now and I never seem to find the time later.
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Quite early - Eranthis pinnatifida, sown in April 2019
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Rudi, yours are quite advanced. My latest batch just starts peeking out of the ground.
But I was amazed to see that most of my first sowing in 2017 produced a flower this year. The biggest one in the rear is the one plant I started with, unfortunately a little harassed by the Cyclamen coum which has monstrous leaves this year (it stayed in deep shade for a little too long in autumn).
[attachimg=1]
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Lewisia rediviva newly germinated. There are some pictures posted by Rick, but there is no mention of the date of sowing/treatment.
I found the seeds germinating after 1 month of cold (above 0C) in the garage (had the intention to put the pot outside but not necessary anymore). After sowing them in January, I kept them in the house for + one week, like I usually do with all winter sowings.
[attachimg=1]
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The pics I posted are here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg406462#msg406462 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg406462#msg406462)
They were all given 3 weeks of warm before being in the garage for a week, then placed outside in Minnesota mid February (0 to -20°C). They sprouted in Apr-May in the 4°C range.
As with just about any seed that is cold germinating, with my outside conditions I get the best germination in my outside pots when all the snow is gone (but frost has not left the ground), and then a new snow covers the pots for a few days to a week. The colder your climate is, the more compressed is the spring. I would imagine for the bulk of the readers here, this kind of condition practically happens all winter long.
As one might expect, rediviva seems to be quicker to respond to 4C than other Lewisia species. If they get their cold treatment in my fridge set barely above freezing, I need to start checking them in one week, as most will have begun sprouting within two weeks.
I think the longer warm pretreatment of 3 weeks gives them a faster jump start.
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Thanks Rick.
I also prefer to keep the sowings outdoors and have them germinating in April/May in a 'normal' fashion. Unfortunately this years there was a lack of snow in Dec and Jan. too, only lately we got reliable snow cover. So I didn't get to put everything out.
Luckily that I sow warm germinating species indoors about this time, so they can get a jump in growth by May; I'll have the Lewisia under lights indoors. We'll see how that goes.
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When our refrigerator broke down, we spent three weeks with ice chests deciding which one (go figure, my husband, John). I saw one that had a full drawer that you could set to any type of cold temperature, C or F. We got it that day! I am trying Lewisia C. alba and white, in a moist paper towel, and kept in plastic zip lock this year at 4C. My husband does check the temp reading, because of warantee. I just checked, no germination, but, I will move outside and acclimate slowly. Cecile Sorry, no photos, I can't understand how to upload pictures. I have an I phone 8s, anyone, can you help?
Oh yes, all of my crocus, and got great pots of Narcissius Moon three different types, thank you Anne.
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Sorry I can't advise you with the uploading of photos directly from your iPhone Anne; maybe upload them first on your computer?
I don't know your location, but if in a zone 6 and below, sowing and placing the pots outdoors is a far better option than the moist towel method.
I've tried both for many years now. Some species will never germinate in moist towel/fridge, regardless of the temp. just because you cannot provide the variations that happen outdoors (especially all Ranunculaceae).
Good luck with your Lewisia - I assume L. cotyledon.
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Slowly the first seedlings begin to appear here. For example, these various campanula...
C. sarmatica
C. betulifolia
C. komarovii
C. thessala
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Congratulations Thomas! Did you cold stratify them indoors or its just the outside cold that did it? I do have some C.betulifolia seeds that I want to try out here. Arturo
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Congratulations Thomas! Did you cold stratify them indoors or its just the outside cold that did it? I do have some C.betulifolia seeds that I want to try out here. Arturo
Hello Arturo...what a great pleasure to hear from you after so long... I keep all the seeds outside... under a glass cover Actually this winter it was much too warm and dry But it turns out it didn't harm the seeds.
Here is another example for the partly long germination capacity of some species. I received some very old seeds from a German alpine friend...because he knows my preference for small botanical experiments. The seeds of this Primula capitata were harvested in 2013 and stored in the refrigerator until sowing.
So we should never give up hope... ...should we?
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Here are some Asian seedlings from last weekend...
Dracocephalum paulsenii
Achillea aleppica ssp. zederbaueri
Parrya pinnatifida
Hedysarum huettii
Veronica armena
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... and five times North America...
Townsendia "Cotton Ball"
Lomatium canbyi
Boechera koehleri
Douglasia nivalis
Lupinus lepidus var. lobbii
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what beautiful seedlings
here in the greenhouse some problems related to the temperatures a little high which make germinate too early, followed by a small frost: seedlings turn white
but :
Paeonia tenuifolia
[attachimg=1]
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Thomas, am I reading your labels correctly? Your seeds were sown in 2015.
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Thomas, am I reading your labels correctly? Your seeds were sown in 2015.
Hello, Diane...
The sowings are from 2019. If I've written something illegible, I apologize. It had to be done quickly when writing the labels... because there are really many pots... 😉
But there are still some seedlings from 2018... for example Douglasia nivalis...
Thomas
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Veronique: Are they peonies?
My very successful agapanthus
[attach=1]
Asclepias Incarnata and tuberosa and perhaps curassavica?
[attach=2]
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yes, the only kind of peony, apparently, that comes out of its cotyledons
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LOL! Missed out the italicised name above the pic. Sorry! Lovely job! I love the single one. I'm getting lazy. Just bought those reduced to £3 mature plants. I have Coral Charm Coral Fay and Coral Sunset.
I think I might have some germinating in one of my nursery beds and let's hope it is not Ludlowdii Lutea again. Once, I had to kill one as it looked horrible in winter and it took up half of my patch. But after that, I missed it very badly!
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Ptilotrichum spinosum (30% germination at 20°C) and Bukiniczia cabulica. Emergence in 1-2 weeks. The Bukiniczia seed was green, and I wondered if it was mature enough to be viable. In addition, this one is supposedly a 4°C germinator, but it seems like I have good germination at 20°C. However it was difficult to tell which were seeds and which chaff, so I don't have a good percentage estimation. I also have some in the garage presently at -4 to 2°C, and we'll see how they do as temps warm. Same with the Ptilotrichum.
[attach=1] [attach=2]
Leibnitzia anandria (75%germination) and Allium daghestanicum (25% germination), emergence in 1-2 weeks at 20°C.
The Leibnitzia were hand pollenated, sexually produced seed. Has anyone notice any variation in such seedlings?
[attach=3]
Astragalus utahensis (100% germination, scarified, 20°C, emergence within 1 week) and Leibnitzia anandria.
[attach=4]
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Hieraceum villosum (85% germination) and Myosotis decumbens (60% germination with light). 20°C, emergence 1-2 weeks.
[attach=1]
Minuartia juniperina (20°C in 1-2 weeks), and Allium daghestanicum.
[attach=2]
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Nice seedlings from all.
Ptilotrichum spinosum (30% germination at 20°C) and Bukinitzia cabulica. Emergence in 1-2 weeks. The Bukinitzia seed was green, and I wondered if it was mature enough to be viable. In addition, this one is supposedly a 4°C germinator, but it seems like I have good germination at 20°C. However it was difficult to tell which were seeds and which chaff, so I don't have a good percentage estimation. I also have some in the garage presently at -4 to 2°C, and we'll see how they do as temps warm. Same with the Ptilotrichum.
Bukiniczia cabulica is a warm germinator Rick. It is just that the calyces sometimes don't contain any seeds. It is a problem encountered with other species from Plumbaginaceae. If you obtained few seedlings/pot it is not bad actually.
I'm not advertising for seeds because I don't have any currently, but some may be interested to read and see how the actual seeds look like.
http://botanicallyinclined.org/the-return-to-bukiniczia-cabulica-seeds/2018/ (http://botanicallyinclined.org/the-return-to-bukiniczia-cabulica-seeds/2018/)
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I also have some warm germinators going on, all the others are still under snow outdoors. I should take more pictures soon.
For now, from the beginning of my Fritillaria collection (future) :)
Fritillaria atropurpurea, stratified 2 months in the fridge first.
[attachimg=1]
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Gabriela, what do you mean temperature wise warm? 15 ºC, 20ºC or warmer? Do you use bottom heat plus artificial light, during your winter now? If I understood correctly, the same procedure could be by moving ahead in the season and achieved by simply cold stratifying two months later in the fridge and use the natural warmth/lighting outside in late spring or even during the summer. Thanks in advance in clarifying this for me. I have quite a few Frits awaiting in my SRGC seedex packets and I'm a step behind you with the "future" collection.
Arturo
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Thanks, Gabriela. I had recorded 3 instances from this forum of Bukiniczia germination. Two were warm, one was cold. The cold was the only one with enough info to determine if it was an anomaly or not, and according to the poster, supposedly well over half had come up. This is why I tried both ways (and I had enough seed). I love to experiment.
Your pic of the seed could easily be mistaken for acantholimon seed. both in Plumbaginaceae.
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Rick... really very informative for me to know your exact specifications of the different temperature phases. I'm afraid I don't have any way of getting the many pots to warm this time of year. I would look in late autumn and winter and have to wait for warmer temperatures ... because all the pots are outdoors ... ...but covered.
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Thanks, Gabriela. I had recorded 3 instances from this forum of Bukiniczia germination. Two were warm, one was cold. The cold was the only one with enough info to determine if it was an anomaly or not, and according to the poster, supposedly well over half had come up. This is why I tried both ways (and I had enough seed). I love to experiment.
Your pic of the seed could easily be mistaken for acantholimon seed. both in Plumbaginaceae.
Yes, Acantholimon is very similar with Bukiniczia seeds wise, and also germination failures wise.
Experimenting is more than good, just that in case I know for sure a certain species germinates at warm, if the seeds are good, then I like to emphasize it. Many people keep getting frustrated by trying this and that from what they are reading, without realizing the problem are the seeds not the germination practices.
Same goes for many species in Fam. Asteraceae, sowing chaff will never lead to germination no matter if you try it warm or cold. This is a joke...but a sad one.
Likewise, germination rates are irrelevant for species where there is known low seed set.
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Gabriela, what do you mean temperature wise warm? 15 ºC, 20ºC or warmer? Do you use bottom heat plus artificial light, during your winter now? If I understood correctly, the same procedure could be by moving ahead in the season and achieved by simply cold stratifying two months later in the fridge and use the natural warmth/lighting outside in late spring or even during the summer. Thanks in advance in clarifying this for me. I have quite a few Frits awaiting in my SRGC seedex packets and I'm a step behind you with the "future" collection.
Arturo
Yes Arturo, you can start stratifying in the fridge in advance by counting backwards and then sow outdoors.
In my case, I obtain an extended growing season by using the indoor lights, which is important for some species. And I noticed I can take better care especially of the monocots. Sowing outdoors safely would be possible only in May when there is too much to do at once.
I never used bottom heat. All pots are under fluorescent lights, around 20C daytime and 17C nighttime. I mostly start the warm germinators like this, with Fritillaria I wanted to see how much stratification few species would require. F. affinis is also sown now, also F. pudica.
As per The Bulb Despot instructions :) sow superficial, the seedlings will push the bulb to their desired depth.
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From the Bulb Despot (Ian Young): regarding Frit sowing
http://www.srgc.org.uk/bulblog/271103/log.html (http://www.srgc.org.uk/bulblog/271103/log.html)
http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2012Dec041354625061BULB_LOG_4912.pdf (http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2012Dec041354625061BULB_LOG_4912.pdf)
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Thanks Gabriela and Rick! IY's log is very informative and it is always a wonderful exercise to go over and over the detailed ( but very simple) steps. The rest of us we are very blessed to have here at the SRGC a "bulb despot" so prolific and generous with in imo is invaluable. Gabriela in her ways is following his example, in her again, very informative blog of which I'm a regular viewer.
Arturo
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Oh, thanks Arturo (blushing here...). Ian Young is a true inspiration and for generations to come I hope.
In any case, I am blaming him for starting to grow various 'bulbs' from seeds :)
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Although I'm a senior in age of both you (and Ian Y), by simply starting and following your steps I've regained a sort of teenager intrepidity! That's what seeds do to us! ;D
Arturo
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Young at heart Arturo, that's all that matters.
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I am especially happy about the successful germination of Chaenactis douglasii. The wild seeds are from a particularly small specimen...
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Seedlings are starting to move this spring. Here are some Mecs, from the Meconopsis group seed exchange
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M. sp. ex Min Shan - don't know much about this one!
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M. balangensis
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M. balangensis var. atrata. Pleased about these as I haven't had good germination in the past. Hopefully I can get some to flowering!
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and also Codonopsis grey-wilsonii from the same source.
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These are seeds from Michal Rejsek, who I bought from for the first time last autumn. So far results are encouraging.
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Gagea lutea
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Lilium carniolicum, and a potful of L. albanicum in the background.
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Gentiana clusii, a bit slow so far but I expect more will come as it warms up.
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Hieracum intybaceum and Leucanthemopsis alpina, both sown just a couple of weeks ago. Trifolium badium and Anthyllis aurea are also coming.
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Hey Tristan
Great seedlings. I see very nice species on your labels.
Again, things are progressing nicely...
Bloomeria crocea var. aurea
Dianthus webbianus
Townsendia condensata
Balsamorhiza hookeri
Lewisia nevadensis "Pink"
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Phoenicaulis cheiranthoides
Sedum valens
Eritrichium howardii 😍
Phlox hoodii
Armeria spec. Travenque
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Hey Tristan
Great seedlings. I see very nice species on your labels.
Yours aren't so bad either! ;) Look forward to seeing photos of the adult plants...
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Primula reidii, own collected seed. Some went to the SRGC seedex, hope it is germinating for others!
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Viola calcarata, sown in the autumn and already quite well on...
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Campanula persicifolia, also sown in autumn.
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and finally a nice potful of 2nd year Erythronium revolutum plants (maybe stretching the definition of 'germinating now' a bit though!).
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tristan
(Attachment Link)
and finally a nice potful of 2nd year Erythronium revolutum plants (maybe stretching the definition of 'germinating now' a bit though!).
Actually, perhaps it might ease on our expectations that germination of some bulbs ( i.e Erythroniums) is a multiseason process!. My first year E. yes germinated, were hair thin fine seedlings and then withered ( as expected) and now belong to the ??? status. So if the second year something of your aspect/character shows up it is a very successful event to be shared! I cross fingers that mine do the same by September. In spite of Ian Young's excellent explanation my E. adventure is still on the start. So your picture is an excellent indication of what ought be forthcoming. It boosts my hopes!
Arturo
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Hi Arturo,
I generally find Erythroniums are pretty trouble free unless a slug takes a liking to them (not all that common, fortunately).
If your seedlings are dormant it is fine to gently knock them out of their pot to check if they are ok. All being well you should see a bunch of miniature bulbs.
As you can probably see from the picture I have just repotted mine - perhaps a little late. I don't try to seperate them, just pot the whole lot into a big deep pot, and top dress with some compost so the bulbs are a little deeper down.
E. revolutum seems to do very well in our temperate Atlantic (i.e. wet) climate. Some of the other species are not so easy for me though, I think they may need a bit more cold in winter and drier summers?
Tristan
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Tristan, here the mediterranean climate guarantees no water during the summer months. We are just now in the midst of the driest part. A large number of the N.American E's come from a very dry summer so I had expected that they ought to be fine here...and a wonderful addition to my dry woodland condition. Quercus kelloggii is a well growing planted oak; so is Libocedrus decurrens: both Californians that do very well. So I started out with basically the various N.American west species. Now I don't even know which pot had what so I wouldn't want to upset those of the successful batch from those that belong to the nothing batch. They will wait in a sand plunge all winter along and get. rain and snow there. I'm also trying out E.caucasicum which although of the arilate type still is from the eastern Mediterranean. No news for that one either...all in all 11 different E's. I do expect some news from at least some of them by next September! The same goes with another experiment: Calochortus also from the same region. Thanks for your tips!
Arturo
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Hah - yes I know that feeling Arturo. I reuse my compost if nothing comes up or I can't find anything in the pot - this year I have had several 'rogue' Fritillaria coming up among my seed pots (at least I think that's what they are). Still better than throwing them out!
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Good luck with the Erythroniums - they are very beautiful. I also envy your climate for Fritillaria, much more suitable than here!
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Yes Tristan, I've got a series of Northern hemisphere beauties awaiting on my wish list...that keeps expanding ;D. Fritillarias already sown ( some and many more to search and find). Strangely enough, my rather unusual climate is very suitable for a lot of the new genera that are coming into cultivation these days, as more gardeners venture with wild ( or near wild) forms. The vastly expanding source of information ( like provided by this site and club) greatly speeds up the widening of the activity. Coming from a nature conservation profession, it will greatly enhance the understanding of ex situ conservation of biodiversity.
Arturo
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Hah - ...I reuse my compost if nothing comes up or I can't find anything in the pot - this year I have had several 'rogue' Fritillaria coming up among my seed pots (at least I think that's what they are). Still better than throwing them out!
With bulbs that die back, as weeks and months go by, one inevitably wonders if there was anything growing in those pots. I've taken to putting an extra label in such pots, so I know for sure. That way, I know which pots can be thrown or reused when it's time to tidy my pot menagerie for the year. In theory at least, you wouldn't have any unlabeled mystery plants, because you would know to keep the old labels.
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Rick, thank you for your method! I'm copying it right away. Those small tips make up for a huge difference in keeping up with the pot menageries organization. At first one relies on one's own memory, but after 100 or so pots piling up...wondering what happened is the permanent state! :). Most seeds take up a second year, so one has to keep a double set of pots before reaching the point of discarding and re-using compost. So easily the numbers of pots grow to hundreds!
With bulbs species, normally going below ground, part of the season, the problem persists, when they go dormant: which pot had what? ???, so the labelling ought to continue further. I honestly wish I can keep up with this good advice and get my pots adequately labelled.... :)
Arturo
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Trillium and Erythronium seedlings grown by Michael Campbell and posted by him on Facebook - what an inspirational sight!
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Trillium and Erythronium seedlings grown by Michael Campbell and posted by him on Facebook - what an inspirational sight!
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Inspirational to say the least Maggi!
For those who are not that experienced in growing from seeds, I need to add that most of these are 2-4+ years plants! So, don't think you've been doing something wrong if your one year old Erythronium and Trillium seedlings don't look like this :)
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:P that's wonderful !
and I who despair in front of my twenty empty jars sown with Trillium, 1 to 4 years old! it's the desert ... :-\
I imagine that it is absolutely necessary fresh seeds and in quantity to obtain a result.
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:P that's wonderful !
and I who despair in front of my twenty empty jars sown with Trillium, 1 to 4 years old! it's the desert ... :-\
I imagine that it is absolutely necessary fresh seeds and in quantity to obtain a result.
Trillium are not difficult if you sow the seed fresh - the trouble is getting hold of really fresh seed of the species you want. It might be worth seeing if you can exchange some seeds with other forumists when the seed is ripe in summer?
My problem is getting them to grow at all here, it's an exposed location with thin soil which doesn't seem to suit most of them. :'(
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Dahlia Variablilis Collarettes
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Sweet corn
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Read that a lot of people are buying up Toms seeds and compost because of the coronavirus. By the look of it, it's worse than war time.
Some tall grass
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Verbena not doing very well. This year, even in East London, the temperature has been struggling. For the next few days, it's hovering around 1c and all my seedlings are struggling. Some even died. Thalictrum seedlings snapped in the middle. Heartbreaking. Need to turn on the radiator, which is breaking the bank and unheard of here. It's very windy and there is a chill to the bone here today.
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Two surprises in the cold frame.
1 seed of Erythronium japonicum sown November 2018. I hope I can keep it alive. I have germinated E. japonicum before but have failed to grow it on to maturity.
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Jeffersonia dubia alba. I collected the seed in a hurry before I set off for the David Boyd event in the Western Isles in June 2018. I put them in a zip lock bag and forgot about them. When I looked at the seeds with a view to sending them off to the SRGC seedex I found they had all gone mouldI gave them a good wash and a soak the sowed them not expecting much if any germination. They are quite difficult to see but there are a lot of seedlings.
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Jeffersonia dubia alba. I collected the seed in a hurry before I set off for the David Boyd event in the Western Isles in June 2018. I put them in a zip lock bag and forgot about them. When I looked at the seeds with a view to sending them off to the SRGC seedex I found they had all gone mouldI gave them a good wash and a soak the sowed them not expecting much if any germination. They are quite difficult to see but there are a lot of seedlings.
This is good to know about J. dubia Roma. It definitely made a difference that you store the seeds in a plastic bag (even without moist media). So they maintained viability for 6-7 months (June to Nov) with germination in the second year - after warm/cold moist cycles.
It could vary with the source of seeds though.
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About Pachyphragma macrophyllum germination.
Few years ago I obtained only 1 plant from a pck. of seeds. But, when sowing lots of things, accidents happen so I didn't think much about it.
The plant flowered and produced seeds last year and upon hearing from other people they also had poor results with dry seeds I sowed them right away (warm/cold moist cycles).
I just found the seeds germinating, 100%. Unfortunately I didn't have enough seeds to experiment by keeping some dry and sow later (I did share some though :)
This species is known to self seed by itself in gardens (which again means: warm/cold moist cycles).
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I would like to hear others experience with sowing dry kept seeds of this species.
*The seedlings are elongated because I found them germinating under a tarp, don't understand how come they were green.
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A few more from the cold greenhouse - I really do have far too many seedlings this year. Lots of SRGC seed exchange material coming up now. Thanks so much to all you kind donors.
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Muscari azureum
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Lilium rhodopeum. I had this years ago, but lost it when I went to university. I'm looking forward to trying it again in soil that is better suited to lilies.
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Scilla verna.
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Pelargonium endlicherianum
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Narcissus romieuxii x cantabricus. I sowed this and other bulb seed directly after receiving it from the seed exchange six weeks or so ago, then read Ian's article that it would have been better to wait until the autumn. I won't say the germination is stunning, but I seem to have got away with it this year, quite a few of the bulbs are coming up.
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Celmisia ramulosa. This is the first time I have managed to germinate one of these.
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Anthyllis aurea.
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Meconopsis rudis.
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Lilium canadense var. coccineum
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Muscari sosnowskyi
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Campanula thyrsoides
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Narcissus 'Craigton Clumper'
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Fritillaria graeca
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Bellevalia pycnantha
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Campanula alpina.
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Re Pachyphragma macrophylla. I had a single plant from a few seeds I brought home from Australia a few year ago. It never did get planted because we moved house and was put in a storage area with hundreds of other plants-in-waiting. Then when it flowered several people asked for it so I planted it in a damp place where it flourished and set masses of seed after a brilliant bloom. I really like the snowy whiteness of it. Anyway I collected a lot of seed - like rather large mustard seed - and sowed it but only after I'd forgotten it for about 6 months so it was pretty dry. Really good germination after about 6 weeks and I planted 2 sdlgs in each of a number of pots and was really surprised when I sold most and not even in flower. Most people said they didn't even know it but still liked the foliage which is certainly OK but not outstanding to my mind. More seedlings are now waiting to be potted.
If most don't die I shall have hundreds of tiny sdlgs of Rhodo. camtschaticum to pot up. I'll leave them until after the winter I think. In the meantime although only one or sometimes 2mm high, they have all turned red and sit in their pot like a little sample of a roughish fabric. I suppose they'll lose their leaves soon. The seed was from SRGC in 2018.
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About Pachyphragma macrophyllum germination.
Gabriela, I sowed fresh seeds last summer, kept the pot outside the summer and moved it in the root cellar in November. The seeds started to germinate in late January, and I had to take them to light to a cool place (inside it is too warm I thought). Not enough light so that they have also elongated, but all are alive and soon I have enough space to prick them out. :) So they seem to have a inner clock which says that two-three months of cold is enough and it is time to come up (just like Epimediums which tend to come up too early here). :)
Anyway, I'm so happy to have them now, and the fresh seeds did the trick. :)
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Gabriela, I sowed fresh seeds last summer, kept the pot outside the summer and moved it in the root cellar in November. The seeds started to germinate in late January, and I had to take them to light to a cool place (inside it is too warm I thought). Not enough light so that they have also elongated, but all are alive and soon I have enough space to prick them out. :) So they seem to have a inner clock which says that two-three months of cold is enough and it is time to come up (just like Epimediums which tend to come up too early here). :)
Anyway, I'm so happy to have them now, and the fresh seeds did the trick. :)
Happy that yours also germinate Leena. Yes, it's clear 2 months of cold are enough, plus the warm period before them.
But if I get seeds again this year I will keep some dry to test them. Maybe they have short viability or we got old seeds the other times. It would be good to know.
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Re Pachyphragma macrophylla. I had a single plant from a few seeds I brought home from Australia a few year ago. It never did get planted because we moved house and was put in a storage area with hundreds of other plants-in-waiting. Then when it flowered several people asked for it so I planted it in a damp place where it flourished and set masses of seed after a brilliant bloom. I really like the snowy whiteness of it. Anyway I collected a lot of seed - like rather large mustard seed - and sowed it but only after I'd forgotten it for about 6 months so it was pretty dry. Really good germination after about 6 weeks and I planted 2 sdlgs in each of a number of pots and was really surprised when I sold most and not even in flower. Most people said they didn't even know it but still liked the foliage which is certainly OK but not outstanding to my mind. More seedlings are now waiting to be potted.
Thank you very much Lesley. So, the seeds were dry for 6 months before sowing.
Here it flowers in late April, so you sow it +/- Oct/November. Could you detail a bit more please about your temperatures during sowing?
It has a particular charm in flower and yes the foliage is not near outstanding. For us in a colder climate the attraction comes I think more from the fact that the foliage withstands very low temp. I couldn't believe first winter when I saw it rebound after a deep freeze, just like Arum does. Also, it takes very well dryish areas under trees (at least that's where mine is).
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Gabriela I'm sorry my times and temps are very much guesses at this stage. In general I sow seed at any time at all except mid winter and of course our winter is very mild compared with yours. We have had no snow on the ground for the last two winters and only a fall which never settled in the winter before that (2017). We've had light frosts but very few of them and none for sustained periods longer than a few days at a time.
I sowed the seed in our autumn, about your flowering time I think and the day temps would have been around 15 - 18degs C I should think but our climate and temperatures are so crazy now that short of daily recordings it's really hard to be certain. Once the seeds germinated they grew quickly in the seed pot.
I'll take better notice this year of when it flowers, seeds and when I sow (assuming I sow more.)
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Gabriela I'm sorry my times and temps are very much guesses at this stage. In general I sow seed at any time at all except mid winter and of course our winter is very mild compared with yours. We have had no snow on the ground for the last two winters and only a fall which never settled in the winter before that (2017). We've had light frosts but very few of them and none for sustained periods longer than a few days at a time.
I sowed the seed in our autumn, about your flowering time I think and the day temps would have been around 15 - 18degs C I should think but our climate and temperatures are so crazy now that short of daily recordings it's really hard to be certain. Once the seeds germinated they grew quickly in the seed pot.
I'll take better notice this year of when it flowers, seeds and when I sow (assuming I sow more.)
Thanks Lesley, more or less it is enough - so it is fair to say that your seeds germinated 'warm'.
Mine (and Leena's) although were sowed in early summer have only germinate after a cold period. It is very interesting and another confirmation about the genetic inheritance of seeds germination, a factor not taken into consideration much.
My initial seeds came from a region with winter cold.
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Tristan you cover your campanula seeds, i've tried with small grit but all failed.
I only had success with those not covered and pot moistened by the bottom.
May be perlite let the light reach the compost.
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Tristan you cover your campanula seeds, i've tried with small grit but all failed.
I only had success with those not covered and pot moistened by the bottom.
May be perlite let the light reach the compost.
Hi Yann, I use perlite for all my seeds. I like it because it keeps a good open structure and retains a little moisture. I also believe that keeping the seeds away from direct contact with the compost helps against damping off.
With small seeds like Campanula and Gentiana I barely cover the seed and often grind up the perlite a bit so it is a bit finer, so maybe not so different to your method. As you say I expect the white colour helps with light sensitive seeds.
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Gabriela, I sowed fresh seeds last summer, kept the pot outside the summer and moved it in the root cellar in November. The seeds started to germinate in late January, and I had to take them to light to a cool place (inside it is too warm I thought). Not enough light so that they have also elongated, but all are alive and soon I have enough space to prick them out. :)
Here are my Pachyphragma macrophyllum seedlings, now over two months old. :)
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Yann and Tristan - the vermiculite it is partially transparent reason why it leads to good results for seeds that require light for germination.
This being said, cold/moist stratification treatment can often replace the need of light for sensitive seeds, a subject not often discussed.
In case of small size, light sensitive seeds sown in late fall/winter - to germinate in the spring, will not always matter what they are covered with.
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Here are my Pachyphragma macrophyllum seedlings, now over two months old. :)
Nice Leena! I just pricked out mine a couple of day ago, had to let them harden a bit.
More and more species are starting to germinate outdoors now.
Pulsatilla aurea germinating well this year.
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Crocus veluchensis
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My C.veluchensis is only now starting to come up. I was already worried I had done something wrong, but luckily they are just a bit later. :)
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First time I've grown Cardiocrinum giganteum from seed. The clone I grow was at the Cruickshank Botanic Garden before I started work there in 1977. I thought it was time I tried a new generation. Own seed sown in February 2019.
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4 pots of Fritillaries. The pudica is from wild collected seed.
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Primula renifolia
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Meconopsis staintonii red form
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Salvia sclarea 'Vatican Pink' looks like the real thing this time. I got Verbascum chaixii for Vatican White
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My C.veluchensis is only now starting to come up. I was already worried I had done something wrong, but luckily they are just a bit later. :)
They were slower to start than other spring species, I was also impatient. Some species needs a slightly higher temp. to get starting.
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I admire your very tidy seedling pots Roma :) I cannot show many of my seedlings because they came in broken pots, half written labels :-[
Interesting to note that few of my Fritillaria species are also starting outdoors (including F. pudica).
And just because it was looking cute: this year and last year Trillium luteum seedlings. Every year I only got few seeds so I put them in the same little pot.
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Pasithea Caerulea germinating - seeds from the last seed exchange - and I have about 100% germination :)
I read they are difficult to germinate, should be nicked but that this was more a kind of seed shooting with little result anyway.
So, I decided to soak the seeds. I noticed they were very hydrophobic and they all floated. So I added a small drop of hand-dishwash detergent to the water and let the soak until all the seeds had sunk to the bottom of the jar. I think this took 4 to 5 days. Then I sowed them about 5 mm deep (I cover seeds with sand) and put the pot in a shady place under shrubs where it is easier to keep the soil moist and the pots don't get cooked by the direct sunlight. Two months later I have these splendid seedlings.
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Francois, excellent! The seeds came from my garden, so it's nice to hear of your success. I have found that the seeds germinate easily, but you need to take care not to over-water the young seedlings or they can rot. I think it's helpful that you have covered them with sand.
When I first grew this, I didn't know if it would survive the cold wet of a Scottish winter, so I kept a pot in the unheated greenhouse and planted the rest outside. They have survived for about 5 or maybe 6 years so far! It's one of my favourite flowers - i can't resist a good gentian-blue.
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Amaryllis seeds have taken a month to start germinating, likewise Nerine masoniorum
cheers
fermi
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Rhodophiala bifida, sown fresh, germinating after a couple of weeks
cheers
fermi
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These germinated already in late April, and are now waiting to be pricked out.
Hacquetia epipactis, sown from my own fresh seeds in July last year. I have tried H.epipactis 'Thor' from seed ex seeds couple of time with no germination :(, so I suppose this is one of the species which needs to be sown fresh.
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Leena, that is a very healthy pot of seedlings! Like you, I have sometimes had trouble, getting dry seed to germinate- in my case, it is Trillium seed. Two years ago, I collected Trillium undulatum seed, for the first time. Given my past failures, what didn't go to the seed exchange, went into a single pot. I now have some work to do![attachimg=1]
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Thank you so much for uploading these images. I'm every day more convinced that I should focus my seed pursuit on those that can be germinated knowingly from dry seeds. Those from certain genera really ask for fresh seed. My listing starts with the following genera: Trillium, Hepatica, Epimedium, Corydalis. These first four just of the top of my head. I'm sure there are many more that others can add and expand it. a listing of that kind can of great value! It reduces the level of frustration and also redirects one's efforts.
Arturo
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For a number of years there was an Ephemeral Seed Exchange. I can't remember who organized it.
If you had seeds that required immediate sowing, you would inform the group, and then mail seeds directly to anyone that requested them.
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Like you, I have sometimes had trouble, getting dry seed to germinate- in my case, it is Trillium seed. Two years ago, I collected Trillium undulatum seed, for the first time. Given my past failures, what didn't go to the seed exchange, went into a single pot. I now have some work to do!
Gordon, how nice to have such good germination and lots of seedlings of a rare species. :)
It is frustrating when interesting seeds don't germinate. I think Trilliums are not worst, I have gotten seedlings from seed ex dry Trillium seeds, maybe 50% of them germinate in two years, and some later, but some pots stay empty.
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I bought a tuber of Arisaema flavum 2 years ago from Pitcairn Alpines and it flowered and produced seed last year. I sowed the seed and was delighted to have an excellent germination.
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Any idea what this could be? I found a black berry containing a lot of small seeds in the greenhouse. I too frequently collect seed and don't get round to labelling it before I forget what it was. 2 possibilities are Ophiopogon or Sarcococca which I think is more likely.
The seedlings look rather like trillium but the berry and seeds did not. Sown in June 2018 and germinated this year.
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Always fun to have a little mystery or two, to look forward to solving in due course. You will no doubt keep us posted in the future Roma, about what it turns out to be. It may be obvious by next year or maybe it will keep us guessing for another 2 or 3 or 4 years!
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Mystery pots seem to multiply profusely here....some have lost their labels while awaiting the the "Lord Seed" to emerge for...2,3, 4 years plus those that keep just in case... Thanks to this site and club so many growers have shown that the only answer is patience. Now patience can be exercized with a light-hearted fun approach or a worrisome approach. Leslie, you've clearly pointed out the one that is imho best suits me. Thank you!
Arturo
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Roma, Paris have berries don't they? Could it be one of these?
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Thanks, Tristan. That's another possibility though I can't remember catching the Paris berries before something eats them. It will be interesting to see what it turns out to be.
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Not sure how long Gladiolus seed stay viable but these Gladiolus stellatus seeds were sown in 2014!
Of course, they could be something else which has sown itself into the pot! ;D
cheers
fermi
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Fermi they look like gladiolus sdlgs or perhaps it would be truer to say they don't look UNLIKE gladiolus sdlgs. I've been caught a couple of times, in reverse as it were. I've carefully extracted each one of G. alatus seedlings under the impression they were fine grass, Poa annua or similar. Still waiting for the latest seedlist batch to mature enough to flower.
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Here are a few photos of some interesting seedlings - not exactly germinating now but this year at least.
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Sarracenia x moorei hybrids. I haven't seen many photos of young pitcher plant seedlings on the web and thought it might be useful for others. These seeds were purchased from a reputable seller on eBay, stratified for 4 weeks in the fridge and then sown into a zero nutrients lime free compost (perlite, silica sand, chopped Sphagnum and chopped twigs). They are just developing their first true pitchers.
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Drosera capensis - a bit past the seedling stage now (the actual seedlings are barely visible to the naked eye). These are growing rapidly now.
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Drosera aliciae. These are slower growing than capensis and equally minute to start with!
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Ramonda myconi. I posted an image of these 'germinating' earlier this year which actually turned out to be Sagina procumbens! The Ramondas came up a couple of weeks later and are growing well in my shady conservatory. They have not been grown in a bag (I tried this before but found it too fiddly) but get regular watering to keep them growing. I am keeping a close eye on the moss but so far it is not too problematic.
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...and this is R. serbica sown at the same time.
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I sowed these veronica seed into a trough a few months ago but didn't expect much in the way of germination. I didn't even write down the species - but that might be because I wasn't sure which of the plants the seeds came from! Possibly a native species which trails. These pics taken on August 15th
cheers
fermi
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Iris histrioides from Marcus Harvey in 2017 just two germinating now. It's the third pot of this species that I've had germinate this year - must be just the right conditions as they were all sown more than 2 years ago
cheers
fermi
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Thanks to Yann I got some seed of Tulipa systola which I was only able to sow this year :-[
Happily they were still viable and have germinated :)
cheers
fermi
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This year I bought some seed from Oron Peri for the first time. Germination so far has been impressive.
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Iris planifolia
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Iris pumila subsp. attica
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Iris filifolia
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Crocus goulimyi
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Fritillaria argolica. This one is interesting, I sowed in September, then put it in the fridge late October with a bunch of other stuff I thought would want a cold dry spell to stimulate germination. It's a good job I have been checking from time to time!
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Fritiallaria conica is another 'fridge fritillary' to start germinating.
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Saxifraga granulata (I think - there are some weeds too).
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Phyteuma orbiculare. Unlike other Campanulaceae I have never found Phyteuma easy to germinate, but maybe autumn sowing is better.
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Potentilla heptaphylla.
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Potentilla nitida. I have grown a nursery bought plant of this in the rockery for a number of years but it hardly ever flowers, so I'm trying it from seed to see if any of the seedlings perform better.
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In August I posted some pictures of Ramondas that I sowed in the spring from last years seed exchange. I carefully teased them apart into small clumps in September and repotted them, and they are making better progress than I was expecting. The serbicas are growing more slowly than myconi.
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[attachimg=2]
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Early september i tried to cut my paeonies seeds on both sides, 0.5mm with a cutter.
Today i checked the pots, almost all are already rooting.
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Yann, nice root forming:). I think P.veitchii is one which is easy to start making root in warm two to three months in warm. I put fresh P.veitchii seeds in vermiculite in zip log bag in early September and they have also made root now (without cutting or anything like that). I let the root grow a little more (maybe 3-4 cm), before I pot the seeds and put them in cold, and then they make first leaves in spring.
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I tried on common species before extending the technic to rare ones. P. corsica also germinate in 3 weeks versus 2-3 years with mixed percentage of germination.
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What is the procedure? Do you soak the seed first and which bit of the seed do you cut?
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you use the same principle as on the onco?https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6450.0 (ftp://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6450.0)
do we have to start the embryo or not? in a more or less sterile environment?
onco: 1 seed out of 4 germs, the others may not have been cut enough or too much
I wondered if we could do that with the big clematis seeds too.
when I was young, I did this on Opuntia seeds, but without breaking into the embryo.
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It almost the same technic, i just cut 1-1.5mm on the top of the seed, both sides. Cutting paeonies seeds is often used in China to improve germination of herbaceous paeonies. I wanted to give a try. I'm very please 3/4 of my corsica germinate in less than 5 weeks.
Each seeds batches were soaked 48h in water + bicarbonate 40%.
Next year i'll try on more eratic species.
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Nice to play with the seeds and see the roots emerging Yann.
For those who are not that experienced in germinating peonies I want to add that the majority of species with two stage dormancy (like P. veitchii, anomala, obovata, japonica and many others) will easily form roots after about 2 months of warm temperature. This can be provided like Leena mentions in Ziploc bags with vermiculite or just by sowing the seeds in the regular way at a proper time (July/August).
Then, they shoot dormancy will be broken after a cold period. Even older seeds will germinate OK (try to soak the seeds for two weeks before sowing).
In most cases the two year germination is mentioned just because the seeds are sown at a wrong time.
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even if they are sown as soon as they are ripe, part of the seeds do not germinate ... remain in reserve in the soil
I also have other problems:
P. cambessedesii finishes its seeds late here (end of September) and does not germinate even if it is sown immediately.
- I have a P obovata alba which germinates (5 seed of the srgc of January), but its 1st leaf starts immediately, at the beginning of winter; so I don't believe this natural germination will work this time around again.
germination is easy to get when you have a lot of seeds per species, but as soon as there are only a few (4 or 5), this sowing becomes erratic, I find.
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even if they are sown as soon as they are ripe, part of the seeds do not germinate ... remain in reserve in the soil
I also have other problems:
P. cambessedesii finishes its seeds late here (end of September) and does not germinate even if it is sown immediately.
- I have a P obovata alba which germinates (5 seed of the srgc of January), but its 1st leaf starts immediately, at the beginning of winter; so I don't believe this natural germination will work this time around again.
germination is easy to get when you have a lot of seeds per species, but as soon as there are only a few (4 or 5), this sowing becomes erratic, I find.
If you grab you own seeds and sow them end of july they got enough warmth until end of october and germinate usually un december.
But for the seeds sourced from seedex or purchase, they're shipped too late. The seeds rot easily, it's looking good on surface but inside fungies destroy embryo.
As Gabriela explained vermiculite is also working nicely but if seeds are freshly put in bags.
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even if they are sown as soon as they are ripe, part of the seeds do not germinate ... remain in reserve in the soil
I also have other problems:
P. cambessedesii finishes its seeds late here (end of September) and does not germinate even if it is sown immediately.
It may be worth trying before they are fully ripe Véronique. I accidentally knocked off a pod when the seeds were still creamy-white so sowed them anyway and they germinated same year.
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it is interesting Gaël!
I will try ...
I also don't let as many pods develop anymore because the year I pollinated everything and left everything, my peony got tired and only made 2 stems the following year.
Without hand pollination, this year I only had one seed on P. cambessedesii. I sowed it immediately, but it did not germinate.
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you're right Yann,
I dug my pots of peony seedlings where I was still waiting for germinations, and I only found empty seed shells. :(
this makes room for future seedlings!
all the same a small result (even if it is on dozens of pots)
in 7 years of sowing
I have
-a successful young plant of- Paeonia daurica tomentosa
-2 seedlings P. perigrinafrom 2 different origin
-1 P.mloko
-1 Paeonia tenuifolia
-2 P. officinalis
-2 P. mascula which should perhaps flower for the first time in 2021
I systematically miss P. anomala and P. obovata,
finally this fall I have a started root of Obovata alba, but as it develops its 1st leaf, excluding season, I have no real hope. P. anomala did the same (because of the warmth?) And it died.
the good news is that I still have some way to go! ;)
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I tried cutting the tails from large clematis seeds and a very little of the actual coat, to provide access of moisture to the embryo inside. I did this because I happened to be cutting some onco iris seeds at the time. There was no result whatsoever. Being a bit more patient, I sowed the remaining seeds (Clematis hirsutissima) in usual seed mixture and had good seedlings in about 3-4 months from sowing. Though cutting these seeds didn't work, I'm in favour of experimenting with any seed which is large or different in some way. How else do we learn?
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I find that also dry seed ex seeds germinate fairly well in moist vermiculite when I first soak them for two days, but root forming takes longer than when sown fresh. Usually seeds put to vermiculite in late January form roots several months later, maybe in June-August. I just potted up in October some peony seeds from last winter (P.mascula, P.sinjangensis, P.ruprechtiana).
Then there is the thing that different species require different temperatures for root to form. In 18-20°C P.lactiflora, P.veitchii and P.daurica-types are easy, but P.officinalis or P.obovata very rarely form roots in that temperature - they need cooler temperatures more near to 10°C, and at least here they do better when sown outside.
Veronique,
if you want P.anomala, I can send you seedlings next spring :). It is almost like a weed here, when there are so many self sown seedlings coming up around the mother plant each spring, and I need to put them to compost. Also P.veitchii and P.obovata have self sown seedlings, but unfortunately never around P.mlokosewithcii (of course that may be partly because it never forms so many seeds at the first place and I try to collect them anyway).
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you're right Yann,
I dug my pots of peony seedlings where I was still waiting for germinations, and I only found empty seed shells. :(
That has also happened to me, but mostly in earlier years when I sowed the seeds directly to pots. If sown in vermiculite, it is easy to see if a seed is becoming moldy (I think this happens when seeds are not viable), and then remove it, but rarely there are seeds which are empty inside. I don't know why that happened to me only in pots, but that is why I changed my practice to sow peony seeds in vermiculite in zip log bags.
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thank you for your suggestion Leena
it's interesting what you said about germination temperatures. and Paeonia cambessedesii, it germinates at what temperature?
I tend to keep my seedling pots in my small greenhouse, where it's comfortable to watch them in winter.
for species like p.rockii [/ i], if the technique of cutting the seeds hastens their germination, it is still very useful. it seems that they take years to germinate.
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it's interesting what you said about germination temperatures. and Paeonia cambessedesii, it germinates at what temperature?
I don't have that species, so I don't know:(. I think you have to look what the climate and temperatures are at the time after the seeds ripen, in places where it grows naturally.
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I tried cutting the tails from large clematis seeds and a very little of the actual coat, to provide access of moisture to the embryo inside. I did this because I happened to be cutting some onco iris seeds at the time. There was no result whatsoever. Being a bit more patient, I sowed the remaining seeds (Clematis hirsutissima) in usual seed mixture and had good seedlings in about 3-4 months from sowing. Though cutting these seeds didn't work, I'm in favour of experimenting with any seed which is large or different in some way. How else do we learn?
I am also very much in favor of experimenting Leslie, I think I showed enough about it on this Forum.
If you read my reply with attention will see that I said "for those not experienced..." . I get many emails from people who read this and that in all places, then they think that if they try a more complicated method they'll get better result, which most often it doesn't happen.
So, there is no need to look for hidden meanings in my reply.
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That has also happened to me, but mostly in earlier years when I sowed the seeds directly to pots. If sown in vermiculite, it is easy to see if a seed is becoming moldy (I think this happens when seeds are not viable), and then remove it, but rarely there are seeds which are empty inside. I don't know why that happened to me only in pots, but that is why I changed my practice to sow peony seeds in vermiculite in zip log bags.
True, seeds that are not viable will rot in vermiculite Leena; it is happening to many other species I keep in moist storage, and it is easy to remove them.
I also found empty seeds shells in some peony pots, even in the cases after I 'planted' the seeds already having roots (grown in vermiculite).
In a way it is normal to easily lose such 'seedlings' because the pots may remain too wet at times and there are no shoots and leaves to use the water. It is often happened to me for other species with 2 stage germination, one example being the Lilium species which form bulbils after a warm period then as well need to go through a cold period
before growing leaves.
So, it is very important that during the time when only roots/bulbils/little rhizome are in pots to keep a very good eye on the watering, and especially to keep the pots protected during rainy/cold periods (like in late fall); fleshy organs rot easily in such conditions.
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Gabriela,
I’m glad I am not the only one to have found empty shells after having pre-germinated the peony seeds. It’s a good point to note - no shoots and leaves mean not much water is required. I will try to take more care in future.
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Gabriela,
I’m glad I am not the only one to have found empty shells after having pre-germinated the peony seeds. It’s a good point to note - no shoots and leaves mean not much water is required. I will try to take more care in future.
Carolyn, I'm sure there are many others who could join us! only that not too many are looking into empty pots in search of 'evidence'. I usually group all the pots with 'something inside' in a corner of the cold frame (which gets a shade netting for the summer) and water sparingly, but then when it rains too much accidents always happen.
Talking peonies the only species I feel sorry not taking more care of is P. brownii. If I decide to try it again, I'll definitely be more careful.
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It may be worth trying before they are fully ripe Véronique. I accidentally knocked off a pod when the seeds were still creamy-white so sowed them anyway and they germinated same year.
I also sow green seeds i don't wait the coat turns into black.
Chinese also scarifiy seeds soaking seeds 1/2h-1h in Ethanol 95% vs 5-7 days water soaking.
100% Viability of paeonies seeds is less than 1 year.
[attachimg=1]
https://patents.google.com/patent/CN103843548A/en
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Carolyn, I'm sure there are many others who could join us! only that not too many are looking into empty pots in search of 'evidence'. I usually group all the pots with 'something inside' in a corner of the cold frame (which gets a shade netting for the summer) and water sparingly, but then when it rains too much accidents always happen.
Talking peonies the only species I feel sorry not taking more care of is P. brownii. If I decide to try it again, I'll definitely be more careful.
Paeonies seeds don't need much water to germinate, in the wild i saw seeds of P. mascula germinating early september above the soil and this in south side hills.
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above the ground, it finally seems logical: 'mama peony' does not bury its seeds. Unless a small animal takes care of it.
water the seedlings too much: this is one of my faults
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Thanks Yann. This table surprises me a little and I wonder about the quality or age of seed used. For example, P. ludlowii seeds itself around in my garden very enthusiastically without help from me or gibberellic acid.
Regarding the stratification regimes (fixed temp x duration) referred to, I also wonder whether fluctuation in temperature might not be more important (if harder to describe & reproduce).
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Thanks Yann. This table surprises me a little and I wonder about the quality or age of seed used. For example, P. ludlowii seeds itself around in my garden very enthusiastically without help from me or gibberellic acid.
Regarding the stratification regimes (fixed temp x duration) referred to, I also wonder whether fluctuation in temperature might not be more important (if harder to describe & reproduce).
It surprises me as well Ashley, I can only comment on P. rockii and P. suffruticosa, which both will germinate well without GA3. P. rockii was the first species I start 'playing' with long time ago because it was donated on a regular base to our local seedex. Even seeds older than 1 year (2 or 3) will germinate. I only first soaked older seeds very well for more than a week (changing the water regularly).
If Ga3 would be so effective then it would shorten at least the time required for root emergence, which looking at the table it doesn't (still about 3 months).
P. suffruticosa I only tried once and don't remember how long it took for the roots to emerge.
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I have seed from AGCBC which I received in January and stored moist in the refrigerator, and just doscovered them yesterday. It's is purportedly 'Abkhazi Princess' of which Joe Harvey who developed AP says ""it cannot be registered since it is not a clone but merely the same F1 hybrid repeated each year.", so the seed could be op unless someone was in the know.
How should I handle this seed? I have powerful LEDs at 5-7c and flourecents at both 7c and 17-18c.
john
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'Abkhazi Princess' is a wonderful peony John, even if you will obtain a slightly different specimen; a nice story behind it as well.
I don't quite understand: you kept the seeds in the fridge from January till now?
I don't know why you would do that, but if so, place the Ziploc bag in a warmest room of the house (in a dark corner). They should start emerging roots in +/- 3 months.
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'Abkhazi Princess' - I don't quite understand: you kept the seeds in the fridge from January till now?
I don't know why you would do that,
Gabriela - too many seeds about, I simply forgot about them, if you saw our refrigerator crammed with Asian sauces, chutneys and you name it mkes finding anything close to impossible. Lots of bad language when we go to it to find something. Joe, who developed this hybrid, tells me one must repeat the cross every year to get Abkhazi Princess.
john
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Astragalus seeds are not easy get germinated, i'll soak overnight in sulfuric acid 20% + water. Same treatment gave me previous winter good results after many failures with scarification methods.
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Gabriela - too many seeds about, I simply forgot about them, if you saw our refrigerator crammed with Asian sauces, chutneys and you name it mkes finding anything close to impossible. Lots of bad language when we go to it to find something. Joe, who developed this hybrid, tells me one must repeat the cross every year to get Abkhazi Princess.
john
Your fridge sounds like a dangerous place John! :D
Yes, I read the same about Abkhazi, that the cross needs to be repeated. I wonder how long it will be possible to do it.
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Astragalus seeds are not easy get germinated, i'll soak overnight in sulfuric acid 20% + water. Same treatment gave me previous winter good results after many failures with scarification methods.
Take care with the sulfuric acid Yann!
Speaking of Astragalus and other Fabaceae species which all have a very hard seedcoat that restricts water absorbtion essential for the germination start, here is a very simple method for those who don't have access to sulfuric acid (not really recommended for home usage).
Last year I started to experiment with the hot water treatment on few genera and species. I don't remember but I've probably already post about it, in case I didn't, it works miracles for: Astragalus, Hedysarum, Lupinus, Baptisia, Oxytropis. It didn't work for Senna.
The majority of species in Fabaceae are actually warm germinators, the winter cold is needed just to break down the very hard seedcoats. Hedysarum and Lupinus may even start germinating in water.
Some seeds will swell after 1 treatment as seen in the pictures, for the other seeds you need to repeat (Hedysarum grandiflorum and Astragalus vesicarius). A very easy and safe method to use.
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[attachimg=2]
Germination at room temp. after the hot water treatment. I don't have new species to test this year but I would also try it on other Fabaceae.
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Gabriela - I suppose anyone with the 2 valid species could repeat the cross. Joe does the cross every year to sell offspring to raise money for the Abkhazi garden. It would be disastrous if someone well-intentioned were to repeat the cross with a hybrid and the progeny got out as Abkhazi Princess. Maggi's onto this peony as you might guess!
johnw
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Take care with the sulfuric acid Yann!
Speaking of Astragalus and other Fabaceae species which all have a very hard seedcoat that restricts water absorbtion essential for the germination start, here is a very simple method for those who don't have access to sulfuric acid (not really recommended for home usage).
A friend working into a medical manufacture gave me already mixed acid, in a safety bottle with a double spillways. Off course i use sur-glasses and glovers. Which temperature is your water and how much time do you soak seeds?
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I used boiling water Yann, you can have tea on the same time :)
Best if you find some small containers with lids, if not, use aluminum foil to cover them and let the seeds stand in water for a day. Tiny fissures that appear on the seedcoats will make some to swell. For the ones who don't, repeat the procedure. The swollen seeds can be kept in regular water for a few more days or sown.
Astragalus seeds are quite stubborn so you'll have to do it a few times. The important thing is not to let the seeds dry out again after the treatment. If you are busy with something else, keep them in water, it's OK for a few days. That's how it happened that I had Hedysarum starting to germinate.
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These are my seedlings.
Just germinating.
I extend the daylight with an LED aquarium lamp and timer by currently 2.5 hours.
... at around 15 ° / 10 ° C in the winter garden. Mainly Gentiana and Pulsatilla ...
As the day length increases, it will be shorter every week :-)
greetings
Bernd
[attachimg=1]
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I wonder if anyone besides me is using additional lighting for the seedlings?
As you can see in the picture above, I tried a 12V LED aquarium lamp (cheap from the China discout from the "Bay") for the first time last year. At the moment I am lighting here from around 4 p.m. until 6:30 p.m. As the day length increases, I can then set the timer shorter. I have the impression that the seedlings are getting stronger. The whole thing is in the winter garden at 15 ° C
So far I have tried it with Gentiana, Pulsatilla and Clematis. I'm also wondering whether it might be of any use with Crocus?
Grüße
Bernd
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Bernd
I have all my winter growing plants under a four tube LED fixture on during daylight to supplement light levels here in NE USA. We get many over cast days at this time of year. Here's a Massonia bredasdorpensis after two weeks. Covering is chicken grit which is granite material.
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Bernd
... Covering is chicken grit which is granite material.
:o :o :o :o never heard
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Let me state from the beginning that I have no experience raising chickens.
I was born and live in a community that frowns on raising chickens in urban areas.
Apparently chickens need an abrasive material in their gut to churn the food and help in digestion.
Chicken grit is that substance.
There's even different size particles used for turkeys.
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:o :o :o
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I would never have come up with the idea for such material in my life
But I have become curious and will take a closer look at the material. Thanks for the tip :-)
;D
Bernd
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Bernd:
https://www.cacklehatchery.com/what-is-grit-and-why-do-chickens-need-it/
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It was nice to start the new year with new seedlings - Pulsatilla tatewakii, picture taken on Jan. 2.
The seeds were germinating in the garage in December, caught them just in time when preparing to take some pots outdoors for cold stratification.
Strange things happen many times with Pulsatilla (I know that seeds from the same lot, and almost in the same conditions, are not germinating).
[attachimg=1]
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Astragalus alopecuroides, seeds collected in Taounza mountains Morocco 06/20, stored at -10°c, cleaned and then soaked 30mn in hydrochloric acid 20% (done in a laboratory not at home), sown 10 days ago and already germinating. In december i sow 42 species of Astragalus using the same method. Crossing fingers
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and they continue to grow beautifully :-)
Bernd
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Sorry, not a good photo. Can anyone tell me what this might be. I did not see a cotyledon it just came straight up. Sown 2 Oct germinated 4 Jan
I found a small ziplock numbered 9026 in my seed box. It might have come from Chinese Alpines in 2019 or even '18. That number doesn't occur in their last list however. I sent an email but have not had a reply as yet.
Thank you
Erle in Anglesey
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even if I do not know what it is, resp. it can be anything from China: it looks very interesting and healthy. I personally love such "surprise packages" :-) Maybe an assignment is possible when one or two pages are fully unfolded. At the moment I could only say what it is not, but with the plant diversity in China you probably do not use it. Pay attention to whether it is being wooded.
greetings
Bernd
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Hi Erle, does it have a square stem? It looks a bit like Verbena bonariensis.
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No, quite round.
I will post again when the leaves are more developed. I am just worried that I will ignorantly manage to kill it, something I am sadly quite good at.
Thank you for your responses.
Erle in Anglesey.
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It looks trifoliate to me and possibly hypogeal ( the cotyledons hidden underground)....you are not the only one is this large world of seed sowers who can excel in ignorantly killing seedlings... I can easily relate to that...I might even receive a prize for it....
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at the base of the seedling, these are bracts.?
it had germinated underground and made a dormant bud at ground level, perhaps?
I also love these surprise plants, it is exciting!
on the other hand, if the mystery lasts, it is necessary to baptize them, would be only with a ridiculous name or a nickname, because otherwise one finds oneself the following winter with a pot without label.
I thus lost an interesting seedling pot from last year. I no longer know where he is when I know that his vegetative cycle had started in January. I hope I didn't throw this jar away ...
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In vitro is sometimes very easy with terrestrial orchids, i've several boxes of Anacamptis pyramidalis and Ophrys doing well. Most are 2 and 3 years old.
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Trollius lilacinus (syn. Hegemone lilacina), sown 22 December 2019, first germinated 17 Januari 2021. Seeds from Holubec ex Kazachstan.
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Hegemone lilacina is a magnificent plant! It is not easy to germinate is it?
Yann: good result for in vitro culture, but isn't it difficult to take them out of their sterile environment? should we give them mycorrhizal fungi?
do you also succeed seedlings which do not dare in vitro? (I have Orchis purpurea in the garden) then I could try, I don't have any volunteer seedlings, but I think it's because of the slugs.
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Bonjour Véronique :)
As far as I know, most orchids only need the symbiotic mushrooms to germinate.
However, there are always discussions about "protective mushrooms" With Cypripedium acaule
and Orchis mascula I could well imagine that. Orchis purpurea doesn't seem easy to grow.
Others are much easier. Maybe Yann can post more of his experiences here?
greetings
Bernd
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[attachimg=1]
100% germination of F2 Lessingia leptoclada! :)
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Massonia bredasdorpensis seedlings
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Frozen, not the cartoon, no seedlings
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it is -5 ° C in the greenhouse, the soil in the pots is completely frozen, and has not thawed for 4 days ...: will that harm the seeds that were germinating?
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Veronique,
That depends on what seeds you are germinating! If it’s eranthis, hellebores, etc then no, they will be fine. The temperature in my greenhouse was -6C this morning. A bigger problem here just now is that it is very sunny and the greenhouse temperature can rise quickly. Sometimes the door is frozen shut and I have to wait till I can open it.
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My greenhouse is kept at 4°c, yes you can bring pots to the garage. Most bulbils can resist such frost.
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germinating, in what was already visible, I had
Papaver (s)
cistus
mutisia
Gagea
Narcissus
Tulipa
Clematis
I got gagea and mutisia in the garage
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[attachimg=1]
F1 Epilobium hybrids
[attachimg=2]
F1 Erythranthe hydrids.
Crosses of E. cardinalis x lewisii going both directions, and using both the red and golden-yellow forms of Erythranthe cardinalis.
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Lewisia cotyledon & tweedyi have germinated this week.
Last year only one Lewisia tweedyi germinated in the tray, the plant can be seen on the left of the photo, twelve months later the tray is covered in seedlings.
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I will then go see my pot of Lewisia from last year!
Mutisia spinosa
Nelumbo nucifera
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Here again the proof that a little patience is sometimes rewarded...Allium douglasii (sown on 28.12.2018)
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how do you keep your pot looking so pristine for over two years?
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how do you keep your pot looking so pristine for over two years?
Unfortunately, I cannot solve this riddle. Some pots seem to be immune to moss...others, however, are susceptible to it. Although I used the same substrate and cover (grit).
It is also a mystery to me why pots with identical contents of one species show such different germination behaviour. Seeds of one batch, sown and watered at the same time. Not a single seedling in one pot, many young plants in the other.
I suspect that this phenomenon does not only occur with me... is it?
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This is such a tricky balance. I generally use perlite as my top dressing because it gives good drainage, holds a little water and has good light penetration. The white colour may also help buffer extremes of temperature. On the whole it gives excellent germination results.
But it also seems to be very prone to growth by mosses and liverworts (a problem anyway in our high rainfall climate). The mosses aren't so bad because seedlings can generally grow through, but the thalloid (flat) liverworts form an impenetrable covering. I'm always worried about removing seed when I weed them out.
I now have quite a lot of granite chips left over from a project, so I may experiment with this to see if it is less vulnerable to liverwort growth.
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I usually use granite grit to prevent liverwort growth and to help keep chipmunks and squirrels from digging in my pots.
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Robert, great minds think alike. I too am fooling around with hybridizing erythranthe. I've been using the Annie's Annuals lewisii x cardinalis putative cross (if you look it up use mimulus) and then crossing that with yellow cardinalis and straight lewisii. I've gotten several pinks like the attached. I've also got seed of F2 generations waiting to be sown. Of course with erythranthe you get masses of seed when it works. What I'd really like is a smaller, more compact mimulus to work with. Anyway here's a picture of one of my crosses. Excuse the lousy background.
Jan
[attachimg=1]
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Some mouth-watering germinations above :)
Gagea fibrosa
Primula auricula
Ranunculus creticus
Scopiolus hallii
Stylophorum lasiocarpum
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Herman the seed you sent in July last year of Trillium chloropetalum giganteum has started to germinate.
Mike
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oh, the beautiful trilliums! :P I would like to get such a lift on my fresh Chloropetalum seeds! I thought it would take them several years.
what beautiful germinations Aschley!
Stylophorum lasiocarpa: were they fresh or stored seeds?
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These were dry seeds Véronique, from Growild & sown outdoors last December but protected from excess rain & slugs.
And look what I found yesterday, also sown outdoors: Tricyrtis hirta beginning to emerge :). Excellent seed from a very kind forumist ;)
Probably they were sown too thickly but I might just pot on the clump in a few months then wait until next year before trying to separate them out.
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it's nice.
I have already obtained a small flowering the year of sowing.
this is the only Tricyrtis I have ever managed to germinate. And yet I have sown some species!
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i don't understand something strange has happened with this thread. I received 4 notifications frtom forumnists about a reply and everytime it opens up with Veronique's comment about Tricyrtis ????
Arturo
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i don't understand something strange has happened with this thread. I received 4 notifications frtom forumnists about a reply and everytime it opens up with Veronique's comment about Tricyrtis ????
Arturo
Arturo - this is because I moved all the posts about emojis - here: https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=18399.0
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Galanthus 'Primrose Warburg'. Evidently this set seed last year and the seedlings are now coming up. Will be interesting to see what they look like, but at least some promise to be yellow.
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Lilium 'Mrs R.O. Backhouse' - a martagon hybrid, from the 2019-20 seedex. Very good germination here! Other pots of lilies from the exchange are also showing.
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Meconopsis paniculata white form.
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Meconopsis yaoshanensis. These are quite distinctive seedlings.
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Lilium albanicum
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Silene acaulis. This self-seeds in the rockery every year but the seedlings never make it. Last year I finally collected seed.
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Crepis pygmaea. These are interesting and promise to have very dark leaves when adult. The cotyledons appeared under the perlite and the first leaves are poking through.
Here are the Ramondas I sowed last year, they are coming on well. I repotted them a couple of weeks ago.
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Ramonda myconi. These are growing relatively fast.
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R. serbica is a bit slower.
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Not a great germination from R. nathaliae and they were sown a bit later but doing ok.
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Tristan, do you sow your seed in straight perlite? That's what it looks like in the pictures but I know this may not be true.
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Hi Jan, the main compost is a very free-draining mix of about 1 part John Innes No 2* to 2 parts drainage material (usually Perlite as it is cheap and works well, but I also use alpine grit or sharp sand if any is to hand). I top dress with a thin layer of Perlite, then sow the seeds, then cover with another layer of Perlite and watered. I use this procedure for pretty much all seeds except those that need deeper sowing like Crocus or Erythronium, or those that don't like to be covered like Campanula or Gentiana (in which case I crush the Perlite a bit and surface sow).
I find Perlite an excellent growing medium: it's pretty cheap, doesn't compact and holds a bit of water and nutrients. The light colour also seems to help germination. I know it's not the prettiest but that's not an issue for me for seedlings. The only drawback is that it is the same colour and size as small bulbs, which can be an issue when repotting. I've had a few rogue fritillaries popping up unexpectedly in this way.
* These days I tend to recycle and refresh a lot of potting compost, so it's not strictly JI.
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The Sarracenias I sowed last June have had a very high survival rate! Heaven knows what I am going to do with all these little pitcher plants.
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woh, it's beautiful and colorful
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(Attachment Link)
The Sarracenias I sowed last June have had a very high survival rate! Heaven knows what I am going to do with all these little pitcher plants.
I also sown many hybrids from Mike King, the lost with Sarracenia is very low so i'm also asking myself where i gonna stock all these pots.
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This weekend I made a beautiful discovery in the sowings.... Aciphylla crosby-smithii is germinating in all the pots. It can go on like this.
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A few years ago now (dates faded from the labels), Anne W in Yorkshire sent me some seed from Galanthus 'Primrose Warberg' and another, and nothing happened for two years but when it did, I had about a dozen seedlings some of which were green and the others very pale and seemingly sickly green. I had hopes of these and last year 3 flowered for the first time and were indeed, yellow, two with yellow inner marks and the third with the whole inside section a good clear yellow. My camera was out of action at the time and my phone camera full but I hope this year to be able to photograph them.
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Polygala major. This is a very common meadow plant in the Balkans. I sowed this in spring 2019 but had no germination, so was surprised to see it come up now (I do keep old pots, but more in hope than in expectation). Hopefully I can establish it here.
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Cyananthus microphyllus (the one with the broader leaves - the narrow-leaved thing is Sagina procumbens)
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Phyteuma scheuchzeri. Unlike Campanula, Phyteuma need to be sown in autumn so they get a cold spell. As the seed is small and pots can be overgrown by moss, keeping them in the fridge over winter is a good idea.
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Aster alpinus.
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Anthyllis montana.
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Meconopsis are growing fast at this time of year, and I have repotted many of my seedlings sown last December.
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M. paniculata white form, grown quite markedly in 3 weeks (see photo March 24th).
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M. cf. grandis. This came to me via the Mec group seedex misidentified. The parent had huge beautiful blue flowers but unfortunately was monocarpic. It set seed though, hopefully I will be able to keep it going.
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M. 'Kingsbarns'
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M. punicea. I have lost count of how many pots of this I have sown with zero germination. Four have germinated in this pot, fingers crossed!
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Tristan, I see some polygala with green cotyledons and some dark colored. What's up with that? Age?
I have had some Phyteuma seed lots wait for the second year, but mostly they germinated with planting in warm for me.
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Are you growing in popcorn?
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Tristan, I see some polygala with green cotyledons and some dark colored. What's up with that? Age?
I have had some Phyteuma seed lots wait for the second year, but mostly they germinated with planting in warm for me.
Hi Rick, re: colour, I think it's light. They came up green and have coloured up over the last week or two. There may also be some genetic variation in the seed batch causing this.
Phyteuma: that's interesting. What species was it and how do you sow your seed?
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Are you growing in popcorn?
:) Looks a bit like it! No, it's perlite Diane. See https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6490.1222
(https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6490.1222) for a description.
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Just made a nice surprise in the sowings of last year....
Astragalus vesiculosus from the Chilean highlands.... hidden under masses of moss...🤞
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Phyteuma: that's interesting[that they germinate without a cold treatment]. What species was it and how do you sow your seed?
Well I will preface with: I don't know if the species are identified correctly as all my seed is from seed ex sources.... Yes, P. spicatum and P. hemishericum are fairly easy, but really, what differentiates scheuzeri, orbiculare, sieberi, vagneri?
Anyway, P. spicatum is the only one I have grown that always seems to need a cold treatment. Orbiculare experience reveals one time yes, one time no. Serratum, scheuzeri, and sieberi all came with with just warm treatment, although they germinated at least as well when winter sowed.
Seed is sown directly onto soil surface and covered with not more than a cm of #2 granite grit.
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Thanks Rick. I've tried various species: orbiculare; scheuchzeri; vagneri; pedemontanum and hemisphaericum at least over the years, generally with little success. Mostly these will have been sown between Dec and Feb as seed lists from suppliers and exchanges aren't generally available before about November at the earliest. This year I managed to get some seed in September for an autumn sowing, with better results. Perhaps I'll try covering the seed a bit deeper next time.
P. nigrum self-sows around the garden, funnily enough, though of course this gets a cold treatment by default.
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Pinguicula longifolia seedlings sown last autumn are getting a bit bigger, and are recognisably butterworts. They should be big enough now to compete with any mosses and liverworts that colonise the pot.
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Biarum from Seeds of Peace 2017 sown 24-03-2018.
First appearance of foliage above ground so I suppose that they are hypogeal germinators
cheers
fermi
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I've never sown Cardiocrinum seed before. I have a few bulbs which are clonal descendants from one I got from the Cruickshank Botanic Garden when working there so have never felt the need to do so. I haven't split the daughter bulbs the last couple of times I had a flower stem but I still have a few growing. The cardiocrinums were there in 1977 so have been propagated clonally for a long time.
A few germinated last year but look what came up this year! What am I going to do with them all?
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Roma Congratulations! I wish I were in your place. I surely would have room for so many. It's a wonderful opportunity to spread them out! Unfortunately I'm way too far away if not I would place my begging hand! :)
Arturo
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These crocus were sown last year and have decided to germinate this winter
Crocus oreocreticus
Crocus fleischeri
Crocus cartwrightianus
Crocus mathewii
Crocus danfordiae
cheers
fermi
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Some Paeonia mascula russoi sown in the ground last November have decided to germinate
cheers
fermi
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Cyclamen graecum germinating after being sown in April 2020!
cheers
fermi
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Pleased to see some Crocus autranii germinating after seeing the pic of the flower posted by Janis recently
cheers
fermi
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Pleased to see some Crocus autranii germinating after seeing the pic of the flower posted by Janis recently
cheers
fermi
Fermi what's the size of your pots?
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Fermi what's the size of your pots?
Hi Yann,
the pots are 3inch (7.5cm) wide,
cheers
fermi
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Eager to grow:
Nerine gracilis seeds sent in late September from Eire to the Pacific coast of Canada where they arrived October 14.
All germinated en route, though they vary a bit - some have long stems and the beginning of a bulb already.
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Eager to grow:
Nerine gracilis seeds sent in late September from Eire to the Pacific coast of Canada where they arrived October 14.
All germinated en route, though they vary a bit - some have long stems and the beginning of a bulb already.
I had much the same with a packet of lots of Crossyne flava that took an age from S Africa earlier this year. I am unsure how many may actually make viable plants, hopefully a few, although I may be waiting a while for flowers!!
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Iris iberica ssp elegantissima germinating? Sown in 2008!
cheers
fermi
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A couple of Cyclamen now germinating (photo's taken a couple of days ago.
Cyclamen coum - now 7 seedlings so far, over 100 seeds sown on 9th September 2021
[attach=1]
Cyclamen pseudibericum - 3 seedlings so far, about 30 sown on 9th September 2021
Particularly pleased with these seedlings, as I've managed to kill the parent plant.
[attach=2]
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Just a quick update.
[attach=1]
Over 40 of Cyclamen Coum now germinated.
About 15 of Cyclamen pseudibericum and I've now had germination of Cyclamen intaminatum started, which were sown a few weeks after the other 2.
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I have recently been experimenting with growing hardy orchids from seed. Unfortunately growing in vitro proved a total failure due to contamination - I think you really do need access to a lab. However, the cardboard method (https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9466.0) so far looks very promising:
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Dactylorhiza purpurella protocorms
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...and a germinating seed.
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Anacamptis morio protocorms.
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So orchid seeds don't have the normal one radicle that emerges from the seed? Or is that fungal mycelia radiating "all over"?
Incredibly interesting!
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Hi Rick, apparently the orchid protocorms produce many tiny rhizoids that connect up with the fungal mycelium and take nutrients from it. The trick with the cardboard method is to grow plenty of the right sort of fungus (which seems to 'eat' cardboard as well as dry twigs etc - basically anything with a high cellulose / lignin content). In turn the orchid seeds use this to germinate and grow in the early stages.
I agree, it's a fascinating method and well worth giving a try. In the photos you can see both the rhizoids emerging from the protocorms and the weblike fungal mycelium.
Happy New Year!
Tristan
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I love that these poppy seeds are not waiting for anything as mundane as a tray of seed compost...
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[attachimg=2]
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the protocorms are very interesting... on "pre-decomposed" cardboard how? on the compost, for example? on the ground? I have only one Orchid in the garden, it is an old and enormous Orchis purpurea, would it work for her?
oh! Gaël's poppies, it's so cute! they look like hairy heads! in which region are the poppies already germinating now? it's not too early?
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Hi Véronique, it's actually surprisingly simple. The method was invented in Japan but it seems to work very well for European terrestrial orchids such as Anacamptis and Dactylorhiza. It should also work for more difficult species including Cephalanthera, Epipactis and Cypripedium, as well as your Orchis purpurea. I should say I only started this recently, so am inexperienced, but have had excellent germination so far. To be honest this isn't the ideal time to do this (probably best done in late summer / autumn), though seed I sowed only a few days ago is already germinating.
You will need:
- Orchid seed (obviously);
- shallow plastic trays to sow into - I find the type you buy tomotoes, meat or mushrooms from the supermarket are ideal. Make holes in the bottom for drainage.
- plain brown cardboard (not the glossy stuff);
- suitable nutrient-free substrate - I like to use Seramis as it is dark (so easy to see small protocorms), retains water well but keeps an open structure that seems good for orchids;
- a few twigs and leaves from the garden, broken / shredded finely;
- a small amount of soil from around where orchids are growing (this and the twigs should provide fungal spores - be careful not to introduce any bugs);
- clear plastic bags large enough to put your trays into.
Method:
1. Cut up some of the cardboard into small pieces about the size of your little fingernail. You need about 500ml of cardboard pieces
2. Soak cardboard and Seramis in rainwater overnight and drain, reserving the liquid ('cardboard tea').
3. Mix the cardboard with about 2-3 parts of Seramis, a dessertspoon of the soil and a dessertspoon of the shredded bark or leaves.
4. Place in a container with a lid on and leave in a dark place at room temperature for a week or so (you don't have to do this, but it gets some good fungal activity going). The mix should smell like freshly dug earth. The lid is to keep out fungus gnats, which like to eat both the fungus and protocorms.
5. Cut strips of dry cardboard to fit your container lengthwise and place them vertically in your container at even intervals. Pack the gaps with the Seramis mix (I'm not sure this is really necessary but it's quite fun).
6. Using a teaspoon, sow the seed thinly on the surface of the mix. It seems to grow most rapidly on the cardboard itself, where there is most fungal activity. Label and place on a saucer of the 'cardboard tea' to soak overnight.
7. The following day, place in a sealed plastic bag to exclude fungus gnats. Keep for 6 weeks or so in the dark at room temperature, by which time small protocorms should be visible.
8. Transfer to a cool but frost free light place, still in the bag. Cooler conditions should stimulate leaf growth, when it should be possible to repot the small plants (I haven't yet reached this stage!).
9. Keep any spare compost in a covered container in a cool dark place as a 'starter' for future use.
It seems a crazy method but actually it is quite easy (beginners' luck?) and I have found it very reliable for germination. So far I have had germination of every species I tried: Anacamptis morio (which germinates very quickly and readily), Dactylorhiza purpurella, D. incarnata, D. incarnata var. dunensis, Platanthera bifolia (this is a bit slow, the seeds seem to have a thicker outer coating resulting in slower germination) and perhaps Orchis purpurea - not quite sure about this one and the seed was old but I think I can see small protocorms. I'm hoping to try more species if i can get hold of seed.
There is a Facebook Group (Cardboard Orchids Sowing Group) where different growers share experiences, recipes and photos.
Good luck!
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Gail I love your poppy seed heads... I only wish I had such a good head of hair ;D
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Helleborus versicarius
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thank you Tristan, this is very precise. This opens up the prospects for a new type of seedling.
I will test as soon as I have orchid seeds.
I suddenly remember that last year I also planted Dactylorhiza elata [/ i]. maybe it will bloom this year.
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oh! Gaël's poppies, it's so cute! they look like hairy heads! in which region are the poppies already germinating now? it's not too early?
I'm in the east of England. I've never noticed them doing that before. Those are just some seedheads on the opium poppies that I didn't get round to tidying up - I am glad that I left them as they do look fun and I am interested to see how long they last before freezing/drying out kills them. It has been very damp here and they are in a sheltered spot so have avoided the frosts so far.
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Second year growth of Massonia bredasdorpensis
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Paeonie seeds are sprouting
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I should be starting a new topic called "Not Germinating Now and Never Likely to do so!" Because I am soon to be moving house and garden, I have been tidying assorted drawers, shelves and piles of paper on the floor. I am shocked to have found many packets of seed, batches in margarine pots and various other containers and even some seeds still encased in their original capsules. There are more than 100 different kinds. Was I just lazy and didn't get around to sowing them? Did I get distracted and did something else instead ? or perhaps at least some are the result of having been taken off the job such as a couple of occasions when I went into hospital. Some packets are labelled with the year 2014 so perhaps it was a bit of all these causes of what has been shameful neglect and waste. So more in hope than with the expectation of real results I have put the lot into a box and as soon as the move is complete I'll sow the lot, a few likely candidates in individual seed pots and the less likely ones in trays in a hotch potch mixture and hope that something comes of it all. I'll need about 4 trays each big enough to take the equivalent of 20 or more packets. Something may germinate or nothing may germinate, time will tell.
I mention this now because in today's post, there came a little packet of seed of one of the Australian Celmisia species, C. saxifraga. In case he reads it here, I would like to assure the sender that his precious seed is already sown and placed in a cool place, ready to join other seed pots for the journey north in a few weeks.
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Bergeranthus Vespertinus from the seed exchange 2021-2022 germinating, sown about a week ago.
And I wanted to have a few seedlings of buddleja Davidii, so just before pruning the schrubs a couple of weeks ago I have sown some seeds. The result ... I can plant an entire forest of Buddleja if I want.
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Dianthus microlepis from wild seed
Hepatica nobilis
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In my search for other colour forms of Clivia miniata, I bought three packets of seed from red, yellow, and peach/pink flowered plants. They were sown as soon as they arrived on November 24th. This is how the red and yellow seedlings look today.
[attachimg=1]
I am looking forward to what these red flowered plants will produce. The pigmentation at the base and underside of the leaves,is very strong.
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The yellow seedlings have been much slower to develop, and the leaves are decidedly narrower than the red seedlings. I only had a single seedling from the peach/pink seed lot, but it is growing well. Given some time,I hope each plant will add to our current display
[attachimg=3]
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Nice, healthy clivias!
- Aetheonema membranacea
- Anthemis cretica ssp. carpatica
- Codonopsis clematidea:Left-seed scratched into surface+grit. Right-seed covered+grit
- Lupinus argentea - wild seed from Colorado
- Rindera sp.
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- Salvia canescens var. daghestanica
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Nice, healthy clivias!
- Codonopsis clematidea:Left-seed scratched into surface+grit. Right-seed covered+grit
So it prefers to be surface sown then. Observations like this are very useful - thanks!
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Lewisia cotyledon sown December 2021.
Physoplexis comosa second year seedlings.
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Lewisia cotyledon sown December 2021.
Sorry you only had so few seeds, Mike!!! 8) ;D :D ;)
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Sorry you only had so few seeds, Mike!!! 8) ;D :D ;)
Maggi, I collected the lewisia seed & misplaced them, found them back end of the year dried out & thought sow them anyway.
Within a couple of weeks the whole lot had germinated. Seems seed does not always have to be fresh.
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Reinforces my opinion, Mike- "if in doubt, sow it" !! :D
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So it [Codonopsis clematidia] prefers to be surface sown then. Observations like this are very useful - thanks!
Yes, I had a lot of seed from the same (2020) seed lot, equal amounts in each pot. Not surprisingly, the surface sowed seed emerged five days earlier.
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about Codonopsis, I have 5 species that have germinated well (forrestii, clematidea, tangshen , subscaposa and lanceolata) on the surface effectively, and not even covered with gravel, but the last one C. ussuriensis refuses to germinate. does anyone have any idea why?
on the other hand, for C. forrestii (and related), it's the 4th time I've sown it, I can't get this plant to grow after germination, although I've already seen a post where it was flowering the year of sowing. I've already seen a post where it bloomed the year of sowing. At home it always remains tiny and I don't know why, but I'm stubborn...
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Véronique,
Codonopsis ussuriensis usually germinates easily, within 6 weeks, at 20C when surface sown.
If you are having difficulty you might have a bad batch of seed.
Is there any chance the seed was subjected to X ray in transit?
C. forrestii is quite hardy once it is established; but young seedlings need to be kept above 15C to develop properly.
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Within a couple of weeks the whole lot had germinated. Seems seed does not always have to be fresh.
Very true! In fact, many species, especially in Iridaceae, will only germinate after 6 months or more of dry storage.
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My siningia sellowiana seed germinated all at once. I have about 60 seedlings under 2mm tall.
I planted 5 of them out to test their hardiness. Our night temperatures are running about 0.5C. They have been out for 3 nights and all 5 are still with us.
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Véronique,
Codonopsis ussuriensis usually germinates easily, within 6 weeks, at 20C when surface sown.
If you are having difficulty you might have a bad batch of seed.
Is there any chance the seed was subjected to X ray in transit?
C. forrestii is quite hardy once it is established; but young seedlings need to be kept above 15C to develop properly.
Marc,
An interesting question, have the seeds been subject to X rays. I have often wondered this about seeds from overseas, when I get poorer germinations than expected. I remember one batch of seeds, from the NZ Alpine Garden Society, which was particularly disappointing. X rays, or extremes of temperature in the aircraft? Other times, the seeds have been fine, in fact I have just recently had some nice wild-collected NZ celmisias germinate (SRGC seed exchange).
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Véronique,
That seems like the only reasonable reason for your troubles.
Codonopsis ussuriensis is not a difficult specie to germinate.
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Carolyn,
"Marc,
An interesting question, have the seeds been subject to X rays. I have often wondered this about seeds from overseas, when I get poorer germinations than expected. I remember one batch of seeds, from the NZ Alpine Garden Society, which was particularly disappointing. X rays, or extremes of temperature in the aircraft? Other times, the seeds have been fine, in fact I have just recently had some nice wild-collected NZ celmisias germinate (SRGC seed exchange)."
This is one of the reasons USA developed the small lots permit.
Gardening and the businesses that support it are a significant segment of our economy. With a Small Lots permit seeds are not subject to X ray and other techniques used by customs to detect contraband.
It seems that Gardening and related businesses are also a significant sector of the British economy. Perhaps British gardeners could band together to pressure your government to develop something similar.
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Marc,
Having been involved with the seed exchange for several years, I can tell you that the US system of small lots permits causes us a lot of extra work and trouble! And sending seeds from another country to the USA, there is no guarantee that that country will not use X-ray at airport security.
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Carolyn,
I didn't realize that the permits were troublesome to shippers. For us they are much less problematic than Phyto certificates. and our seeds arrive usually considerably quicker.
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Unfortunately, this is what I suspected, and it's sad because I was excited to get this species. I have been doing well here with Codonopis lanceolata for several years.
do letters between individuals containing a few packets of undeclared and unlicensed seeds have a chance of reaching their destination without complications, for example between America and Europe or between England and Europe, or are we all confined to our own territories as far as seed exchanges are concerned?
X-rays seem to be a problem. and it's true that this species was present for the first time in the list for several years.
It might also explain why my 3 kinds of Mutisia don't germinate either :-[
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The biggest problem with Mutisia is empty seedcoats. Viable seed should look plump.
They need 2 weeks at 4C then move to 20C. They are inconsistent about whether they want light or dark at 20C so divide the seed and try both ways.
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I had not considered the impact of X-rays on seed viability.
I have had a bad experience when seed was subjected to fumigation, zero germination, which was unfortunate as it was a large number of hellebore seed packets. There are other factors that would impact upon germination but usually a few seeds do germinate albeit at a lower rate than local seed. Our government agricultural inspection agency still use methyl bromide as the fumigant.
I assume that all postage to us is now subject to X-ray scanning. There must be a declaration on the outer envelope of seeds sent to a recipient here here stating
that the contents are seeds. This is supposed to trigger an inspection of the contents a upon arrival at the border. However quite often small deliveries even with the outer envelope statement often come through without being overbed for inspection. May just be luck of the draw.
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I don't have any pictures to show but I did manage to get 2 germinations of Caiophora lateritia (I already tried it without success years ago, and this is the first time I got a germination) and also about 20 Lobelia tupa. :D
They are such tiny seeds...
I would be very satisfied if they grow, it takes so long at the beginning...
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I would be very satisfied if they grow, it takes so long at the beginning...
It has been said that 'patience is a virtue'. It seems that gardening is likely the most pleasant way to set about learning patience.
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Here is a photo of Amana erythronioides seedlings that just germinated a week ago. I sowed the seeds July 13th, 2022. I found a note on the tag saying that I sowed about 40 seeds but only 15 of them looked good enough to germinate... Seems they did better than I expected!
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Before we went on holidays in mid-June I managed to sow a few trays of seeds and a few have germinated over the last week:
1) Penstemon speciosus
2) Campanula saxifraga ex Panayoti Kelaidis
3) Campanula saxifraga ssp aucheri
4) Calochortus venustus
5) Penstemon virens
cheers
fermi
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Such wee things among those big rocks.
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More germinations:
1) Bellevalia dubia ssp boisseri
2) Mentzelia laevicaulis
3) Gagea mauritanica
4) Babiana angustifolia
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
This is a really helpful thread. I want to thank you and all others who post to it.
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Pulsatilla nuttalliana K= basic-neutral soil, some clay; S= more acidic soil, more sand. Let's see how the seedlings develop. nuttalliana is said to be very difficult to cultivate, but no one has been able to tell me what these difficulties are. Maybe I'll get lucky here?
Greetings
Bernd
[attachimg=1]
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germination of Tropaoelum tricolor, sown in December.
I thought I was getting cotyledons that looked like Tropaeolum majus! This is so fine (like a hair when it emerges) that I thought it was a weed.
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like many climbers, Tropaeolum tricolor grows best if it finds a support
;D Trillium kurabayashii, sown in September 2023. the photo is already a week old and I now have about twenty seedlings
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from the 2024 seed exchange