Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Specific Families and Genera => Pleione and Orchidaceae => Topic started by: mark smyth on August 13, 2012, 02:58:07 PM
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I cant find the thread that referred to and showed photos of orchid seed sown on wet cardboard.
How did they do?
Anyone got the link?
I really want to try seed sowing this year but not symbiotically. I'm in the mood. I collected pods off my Orchis mascula.
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I think it may have been Hristo or Sinchets who mentioned that...... the cardboard pieces were stored upended in containers..... does that sound right?
I'll see what I can find :-\
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Here's a start:
an article in the Winter 2006 issue of the Alpine Garden Club of British Columbia describing a Japanese technique for germinating orchid seed on a cardboard scratching pad soaked with compost tea.
http://www.agc-bc.ca/bulletin/AGCofBC-winter2006.pdf (http://www.agc-bc.ca/bulletin/AGCofBC-winter2006.pdf) ....piece starts on page 6
And you'll need a translator for this one : http://www.sumirenomiwaku.net/ran/tanetane02.htm (http://www.sumirenomiwaku.net/ran/tanetane02.htm)
Can't find the Forum ref. as yet!
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Aha! https://www.srgc.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6490.msg181713#msg181713 .. that post and some more on the same page.
Hristo applied this cardboard method to seed sowing in 2010.
Results so far are germinations of;
Spiranthes romanzohffiana, D.saccifera,D.romana,O.laxiflora ssp. elegans and D.sambucina.
A not very scientific approach was employed;
1) cardboard cut into strips and placed into a take away cake container
2) The addition of 'juice' from my compost heap
3) The addition of lignin consuming fungi from beech woodlands
4) The addition of root samples from target orchid species
Sow the Seed
5) Left to get frosted for a couple of days
6) Moved indoors to temps 3 tp 9c and in the dark
The joy of this system is that aseptic conditions are not required!!!!
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Thanks Maggi
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Hi Mark and others,
I did the same last year (2011) in autumn with Dact.praetermissa and later with several other species (Cyp. flavum, Cyp reginae, Ophrys apifera, Cephalanthera damansonia). Dacts germinated easily within two weeks! All other species I tried are until now unsuccessful. But the seed quality can be the cause. I do some asymbiotic sowing as well and often a seedlot does not show any germination.
But now an important remark: I lost all the small plants because of the developing animals that were in the compost-tea, they turned the cardboard into a very nice compost! Watch out the black flies as well!
Greetings, Guus
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But now an important remark: I lost all the small plants because of the developing animals that were in the compost-tea, they turned the cardboard into a very nice compost! Watch out the black flies as well!
Greetings, Guus
Guus,
I think that's the point!
You can not sterilize the compost-tea with this method, because it also contains the fungus, necessary to germinate the seeds. On the other hand, if you do not sterilize it, things go wrong as well. I worked with the B1 on non starch/sugar based media (woodfiber,cardboard) and found out (even when sterilized BEFORE inoculated with the B1) that on such media seedling-development AFTER germination was very weak - if there was further development at all.
So my conclusion is: germinating Dactylorhiza seeds is easy, but the way to a healthy plant is still much longer - too long for this method.
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there goes my enthusiasm out the door.
Can the ordinary person succeed using asymbiotic methods?
Maybe I should simply spread my orchid seed in the miniature Hostas pots
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Hi Mark and all the others....,
Please don't stop trying everything that comes up in your minds as probably a way of sowing symbiotic. Once we will find a way to do it. What I started to do is take some soil from the area the plants grows in and use it as a base for the cardboard layers. Hopefully the right fungi are in the sample.
Let's keep up trying and reporting.
Greetings, Guus
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Guus have you succeeded with cardboard?
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Please wait Mark. I am also busy sowing Dactylorhiza using cardboard, but need help to write a text.
More tomorrow
Greetings Lily-Anne
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OK
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Hello Mark ( and others),
Please, don't be put off. Sowing on cardboard is very fascinating and a real challenge, maby even more because very few people have tried to do it.
My first experiences with sowing on cardboard was with Bletilla striata. It was incredibly exciting. When the first germinated seedlings got visible, with a strong magnifying glass(!), I was so thrilled. After some time, the seedlings were plantend out in another medium, which was also a fun job to do. First they grew very slowly, but now most of the plants are planted out in the garden. It will take a long time before they'll ever bloom, but the effort was worth it. It was great fun!
Last year I sowed Dactylorhiza using cardboard but with a different soil mixture. It worked well, and at this moment I have seedlings that are already in a larger pot with a medium. The tallest of these seedlings are now about 2 to 3 cm. I guess they'll stop growing gradually now for this year, but so far everything is pretty good.
About a week ago I have sown fresh Dactylorhiza seeds again. The composition of the medium is somewhat different than the previous time, to encourage and to speed up the development of the right mold(s) as much as possible. This way (i hope) the seeds will get a better start. I think it is necessary to add shredded cardboard in any kind of medium that you'll use for sowing dactylorhiza, because the cardboard seems to help the development of the fungi.
I imagine that my reaction will raise many questions. I will write down all the details of this experiment as well as possible, so others can benefit of my experience (both positive and negative). The more people that are trying this, the more likely that a very good feasible method can be found.
To my great regret my English is not that good, so I need the help of some translation to write something on this forum. This makes it a bit difficult to respond quickly, but i'll try to do so.
Ps.: I'll apreciate also reactions by Hirsto and others so we can learn from their experiences
Greetings
Lily- Anne
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Lily-Anne,
I look forward to your detailed explanation of your methods. I was just give a lot of dactylorhiza seed which should be sown within a week. I would like to try it your way. :) :) :)
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Lily-Anne,
Bletilla striata does not require a symbiotic fungus at all. Seeds germinate on ordinary moist soil or in Sphagnum as well.
With Dactylorhiza, things are completely different. The problem that I see is, that if you are using compost-tea, you inoculate your medium with certain fungi. Fine if it works, but even this configuration has hardly repeatable results. If Mark does the same, he probably has different fungi in his medium with questionable impact.
So Marks results will probably be different than yours.
If we do not isolate the fungi of which we know that they work properly, we will not be able to get the same results more than once.
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First and foremost, I only speak from my own experience and give no guarantee for the result - many other compositions and methods might also be possible. Your experience ( positive or negative) can also help me . Other forum members are already sowing on cardbord and therefore have more experience ( I like to hear their experiences , especially in the further propagation of the seedlings )
I sow not only on cardboard, because I have found that there is still a chance that something goes wrong and the wrong fungi destrois the sowings
Cardboard remains an important ingrediënt of the seed medium , because
the necessary good fungi grows well on it .
I use quite a lot of small square plastic pots with a transparent or opal cover
So, if a problem occurs in one seed jar I still have many pots to go on
Pots with à lid, for optimal humidity, to ensure that the fungi and the seedlings never dry out .In the bottem I make a lot of holes , so they can get compost thea from below , and the seeds do not wash away.
Composition of the medium:
A good fine , permeable soil ( try yourself different compositions and record everything very carefully , so that later, you still know what you did
and what gave the best results) Possibly even fine pure leaf mold is also sufficient.
I sift all ingredients through a fine sieve.
now I have a composition of :
- 3x filtered compost tea ( to bring no bugs in the medium )
- 1 part perlite
- 1/3 part very fine akadama (bonsai soil)
- 2 p.fine brown lava ( aquarium)
- 1 p. verry fine bark
- 2 p. verry fine peat
- 1 p vermiculite
- 1 p. dry fine peat moss -
- 1 + 1/4 p. chopped cardboard scraps (1 to 2 cm)
This year I mixed everything 3 weeks in advance and put it away in a sealed bucket , so the good mold can begin to grow . In this way, the seeds come in an optimal medium with plenty off good mold . Last year I didn't do it this way, and maybe it is not really necessary, but hopefully it helps more.
Sowing:
Pots half filled with the medium, so there is still headroom left for the seedlings, as the lid is on it.
Make the ground level and give it a very light pressure . Scatter the seeds verry thin and cover it very lightly with fine brown lava (aquarium) or very fine real leaf mold. Then sprinkle some seed on top of it all, so you can follow beter, the evolution of the germination ( with a strong magnifying glass !)
In this years experiment, I do also a test with some deeper pots, with the same composition, but in the bottom layer I mixed in a little bit of bonemeal, hoping that the the seedlings will benefit later . This way de seedlings are not in direct contact with the bonemeal . It might be that this is totally wrong, I 'll see wat comes of it!
I number each pot en weigh them before I let them suck in, compost tea (5 min) so later on I willl know when to water them.
For the moment the pots are in a dark place, and I'm waiting for the best... :D :D
greetings
Lily-Anne
These are the Dactylorhiza seedlings (sown September 2011) . They are still doing very well, but grow very slowly.In the best pot, are at least 50 seedlings
They are still in the kitchen in a light spot
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21-8-12
Control of the pots ( after 14 days) whit a good magnifiing glas ( 35x)
Good signs for the pots without bonemeal :A very large part of the visible seedlings get a little swelling in the middel ( as was in previous test ) :D :D
The bone meal test looks less positive - here I am not confident and I will no longer continue to apply in future sowings
Gr.
Lily- Anne
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lily-ann,
thanks for your posting!
Even as someone who has already done some sowings (symbiotically and asymbiotically) I find your results very impressive and very encouraging. Really well done!
Maybe the reason for the relatively slow speed of growth lies in the very high density of the seedlings.
But from all my sowings, I can say that the addition of Bonemeal is -for sure- not a good idea. The problem lies in the high ratio of phosphor which sometimes tends to inhibit the growth of mycorrhizal fungi. Moreover the nitrogenium-level is also raised, which can cause inhibition of symbiotic relationships between plants and fungi.
If -at all- a fertilizer is needed, I would tend to use a liquid or soluble organic fertilizer at a very low concentration (0,5ml-1ml per Liter of substrate). Mycorrhizal fungi are very very modest growers and even grow in media with only 5-10% organic matter.
For purposes of repeatability, I do not use compost-tea but rather a mixture of yeast-extract together with some soluble mineral-salts. Inoculation with fungi is done with Perlite-based spawn of the B1 (the most excessively used mycorrhizal fungus for growing orchids) My last try-out-medium was mainly made up of coconut-fiber but I think that this is suboptimal in this case. Next medium to try would be a mixture of decomposed bark/wood-fiber/leafmould together with chipped cardboard and about 30-40% Perlite.
Just one question according the type of cardboard you are using in your medium: is this still CORRUGATED cardboard or some other type. I am asking this because corrugated cardboard also contains a lot of starch-based glue which may also play a major role as a nutrient for the fungi.
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[quote author=winwen
Next medium to try would be a mixture of decomposed bark/wood-fiber/leafmould together with chipped cardboard and about 30-40% Perlite
----- good tip to try again later
Just one question according the type of cardboard you are using in your medium: is this still CORRUGATED cardboard or some other type. I am asking this because corrugated cardboard also contains a lot of starch-based glue which may also play a major role as a nutrient for the fungi.
[/quote]
----- Yes it's just simple cardboard of clean disposable boxes that I use. I try (If possible ) to remove a part of the outer layer
Greetings
Lily- Anne
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I started my own experiment two months ago with Epipactis mairei seed. This is my experience so far.
My method is the following.
I use small plastic food containers for the medium.
The medium is a mix of:
1. coconut coir
2. seramis
3. super densa, a pond filter medium consisting of 3-5 mm kind of white/yellow lava rock type.
For the card board box strips I use a chewing box for rodents, which you can buy in a pet shop. This card board is softer than regular card board. The rodent box is cut into strips.
The strips are put in a bucket of water mixed with added mycorrhizae spores (a mix of endo and ectomycorrhizae, which you can buy).
The wet strips are put in the food containers, which are then filld up with the medium (between the strips) up until only the top of the card board strips can be seen. I sprayed mycorrhizal water, previously used for wetting the card board, on top of the medium.
I also sprinkled a tiny bit of top soil from a spot in my garden, where a native Epipactis spontaneously appeared.
Then I sprinkled a few dozen seeds of Epipactis mairei on top of it and sprayed it again with the mycorrhizal water.
After putting on the lid I kept the containers on a windowsill in my house.
After 6 weeks the following happened:
Photo 1:
I noticed a tiny green spot with my magnifying glass. The tiny spot can be seen in the middle of the photo. It is hard to see on this picture, but I added it to give you an idea of the size of it all.
Photo 2:
This is the same picture as photo 1, but now the center is magnified.
Photo 3:
The same green spot from a different angle. You can see the mycorrhiza threads. Sorry for the blurriness.
After 8 weeks (today):
Photo 4:
Again a picture where there is hardly anything to see, but in the middle of the photo the green spot is there.
Photo 5:
This is the same photo as photo 4, but now magnified in the center. You can see growth!
Whether it is truly an Epipactis mairei seedling or not is still to be seen, but I have high hopes. I couldn't find other green spots yet, but I will need to wait for that.
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;D Looks promising
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Hello John,
I hope it worked, but I wonder how strong your magnifying glass is.
with a very verry strong magnifying glass (as a watchmaker magnifying glass) I'd expect you would see lots of swollen seeds now
Greetings
Lily- Anne
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These are my Bletilla striata seedlings , sown on 17/02/2011 with cardboard. In the spring of 2012 the seedlings were transplanted for the 2nd time in a container and left outside in a shady area throughout the summer .
To take the picture I took them out of the ground and rinsed them with water, so the roots are more visible .
To protect them, they will be in a frost-free porch this winter
Greetings
Lily- Anne
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These are the first pictures of the new orchid seed attempt with cardboard.
the first picture are Cypripedium reginae seedlings sown on 16/09/2012
and the second picture are Dactylorhiza sp. sown on 7/08/2012
the other seedlings from the test are too small to capture on a picture, but the results are promising
greetings
Lily-Anne
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Great shots Liy-Anne. Did you use the same method for the Cyp. reginae, the Dactylorhiza and the Bletilla as well or do you tweak a bit?
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Lily-Anne do you have more photos o show what you did with your new attempt with cardboard
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Great shots Liy-Anne. Did you use the same method for the Cyp. reginae, the Dactylorhiza and the Bletilla as well or do you tweak a bit?
Hello John,
the medium is slightly modified compared to that of the Bletilla
for lime lovers I try different doses of lime
I try to write down exactly how I do it
Greetings
Lily anne
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Lily-Anne do you have more photos o show what you did with your new attempt with cardboard
Mark,
I have no further photos of the new sowings because they are so small,once they are visible in the pictures I will post them . I will soon post pictures of the evolution of Bletilla from the beginning
Greetings
Lily-Anne
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Here is a brief overview of my first breeding of Bletilla striata with cardboard
sown on 17/02/2011--
last picture is taken recently on the second repotting
greetings
Lily-Anne
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Looking great Lily-Anne
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These are the first pictures of the new orchid seed attempt with cardboard.
the first picture are Cypripedium reginae seedlings sown on 16/09/2012
and the second picture are Dactylorhiza sp. sown on 7/08/2012
the other seedlings from the test are too small to capture on a picture, but the results are promising
greetings
Lily-Anne
Lily-Anne,
it's really amazing to see the fungal hyphae creeping over the medium. Is this the first time that you are trying to grow Cypripedium on cardboard or did you have success with that species before? Could you eventually give us infos about the species that you have already grown successfully on cardboard?
You compost-heap seems to contain the right fungi - I wish I had such a compost-heap!
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Hello Winwen,
it's the first time I sow Cypripedium , so it is very experimental ,hopefully they continue to grow.
I have already grown successfully on cardboard :Bletilla striata and dactylorhiza sp.
This autumn I have sown pretty much different orchids with cardboard, wait and see, but it already looks very promising. For photos, they are still too small
Greetings
Lily-Anne
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Lily-Ann,
how are your Cypripedium-seedlings doing? Are they still growing or already in winter-rest?
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I will try to make a picture and post it tomorrow
Greetings
Lily- Anne
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Lily-Ann, may I ask you if you have some photos for us?
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Excuse me for my late reply. busy, busy ... This year it's not so good with all my sowings on cardboard. The start was good, with good swelling of the seeds and good mold, but now I have the impression that the fungus is deteriorating and that the seeds do not look so good. Whatever the cause is, I do not know. This is a photo of Cypripedium reginae today. I hope it's clear enough. Let us hope that it still will be fine.
greetings
Lily-Anne
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I have deflasked my orchids (sown last autumn) today and trasplanted them in plastik-boxes filled with sterilized orchid-soil.
These boxes are now standig in a sheltered place during winter-rest.
I also looked for my cardboard-sown seeds but despite of good germination, there has been no further growth. It is fairly the same as in my earlier attempts using the B1 on wood-based soil: good germination but virtually no growth afterwards.
In my oatmeal based sowings, protocorms have reached a size of about 10mm with a 5-10mm long bud.
Thus for me it is clear, how to do my next sowings.
Maybe that with other fungi, things may go better on cardboard, but since these fungi have not been isolated and are not available for the hobbyists in pure culture, I think that the cardboard-method can not be called a reliable method for sowing orchids. It is rather like a kind of roulette.... :'(
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Do you buy or mix your own oat seeding medium
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Mark,
there is no need to buy such a mix.
I simply take 3g instant-oatflakes (easily dissolve in water), 7g Agar-Agar for one liter of tapwater for germination.
My replate-medium is fairly the same: 4g instant-oatflakes, 7g Agar-Agar and 2g extra sugar - that's it (plus 1 liter tapwater of course)!
If you transplant to regular orchid-soil early (before or immediately after winter-rest, but better before-so they can even freeze in winter which is not possible if they are still in flasks), this is all you need.
If you plan to keep the seedlings flasked for the first year, you should add 1g active charcoal to the replate-medium. This darkens the medium which helps for good growth of roots. You will also have to feed the plants in the flasks with oatmeal every 6-8 weeks.
If you transplant early (the easier way!), you are almost done now. Plants will stay in the container (sealed) for the rest of their first year (outside - they have leaves and need sunlight for photosynthesis although not much heat!). After leves have died down in autumn, they make their 2nd winter-rest (I keep them in the fridge - unearthed, just a bit sphagnum around them). The following spring they are ready to be planted out in beds or open containers - just as you like.
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hello everybody !
Winwen what kind of orchid you sow ?
i've experimented with several preparations and media , with a sprinkling of Pleiones realized the 24/12/12 .
Today I just watched , and half mixture appears green seeds , maybe germination will begin !
Good cultivation un your essays
Christian
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Hello Christian,
I'm growing mainly those orchids that are germinated and supoorted in growth by the "B1" (a symbiotic fungus that has made it's way to nearly all amateurs that sow symbiotically) but mainly Dactylorhiza. I also have Calopogon tuberosus, which can easily be propagated vegetatively (as well as by seeds: it is reported that Calopogon even germinate on 30g Oatmeal-Agar WITHOUT the presence of a symbiotic fungus :o).
Beside my orchids, I am trying to cultivate Lilium gloriosoides (chinese mainland-variety), which is very very hard to cultivate successfully over more than 2 years (at least for me). Since some years now, I am also looking for something "blue" (since this color can't be found in lilies or terrestrial orchids). Therefore, I am also interested in Iris (reticulatae), Scillae and far eastern Corydalis.
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Hello Winwen ,
In what form do you buy your oatmeal ? we do not know this in France !
And how and where do you find this fungus ?
I will soon post my pictures of my seed trials on board, the first mixture to be quick germination is a mixture based banana I made myself !
See you soon
Christian
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Christian
Oatmeal is Oats that have been ground up.
Is easy to make just put some oats in a blender and and let it run then sieve out the larger pieces.
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Does everyone know what we mean by "oats" ? Avena sativa
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Hello Winwen ,
In what form do you buy your oatmeal ? we do not know this in France !
And how and where do you find this fungus ?
I will soon post my pictures of my seed trials on board, the first mixture to be quick germination is a mixture based banana I made myself !
See you soon
Christian
Hello Christian,
Maggie is right - Oats (Hafer in german, Avoine in french) means Avena sativa.
The "B1"-Fungus was isolated by the "fungus-bank"-team of the HOS many years ago from the roots of a Dactylorhiza fuchsii and can still be bought via the HOS as a pure culture.
There are other fungi as well but as far as I know, the B1 is the most productive of the symbiotic fungi available to the public, especially when it comes to hardy or semi-hardy terrestrial orchids. As far as we have found out, it germinates and supports at least around 60-80 species of 10-12 orchid-genera until the plants are ready for being planted out: mainly Dactylorhiza and the "new" Anacamptis but also Spiranthes, Gymnadenia, Platanthera, Herminium, Goodyeara, Nigritella(?), etc.
However it does NOT germinate and support Orchis, Ophrys, Cypripedium, Cephalanthera, Calypso etc.
Recent attempts to DNA-analysis gave rise to the assumption that the B1 belongs to the genus Ceratobasidium (not Tulasnella as many might have expected).
The fungus is quite dominant and also has the ability to break down Cellulose-based matter which should make it possible to raise orchids with the help of the fungus on cardboard based substrates (although I was not successful with that) in a non-sterile environment.
Nevertheless on Oatmeal-Agar development is quite rapid and you will get plants with roots and green leaves within 2 (Anacamptis morio) to 6 (Dactylorhiza maculata, Platanthera bifolia) months after sowing.
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Hello ,
Thank you very much for all details , so it's raw oats , Avena Sativa (food for horses) with Agar , so I understand.
Cordially
Christian
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Christian,
not raw, I would rather take "farine d'avoine" for production of orchid-medium (3g, together with 7g of Agar and 1 liter of water)
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Ok Winwen , thank you
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Winwen do you have photos showing what you do and seedlings growing?
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Here are photos of my last year's Platanthera bifolia seedlings after 3 months before their winter-rest (photos taken in early January 2012)
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and more......
I added 1g active charcoal to the medium (therefore the black color).
The protocorms have a length of 10-12mm (without the leaf-primordium), the bud itself is also 8-10mm long.
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Then, in early april 2012, it was time to plant the seedlings out into special wood-based substrate in sealed containers
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In early September, harvest came.
The coin has a diameter of 24.6mm (nearly one inch)
The first pic shows the Platanthera bifolias.
The second pic shows Dactylorhiza maculatas which were grown the same way.
I hope this gives you an idea what I mean by rapid development.
The differences in bulbsize is because these plants have lost their leaves early due to fungal infections (no more photosynthesis possible).
Hence: My method is still not perfect, but I'm trying to refine it ;)
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Fantastic result Winwen! I have the impression that the evolution in this way , is much faster than on cardboard (whitch at the moment are hardley growing )
Gr.
Lily-Anne
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Winwen what wood base substrate is it, that you are transplanting them to?
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The substrate consists of equal parts wood-chips (as used for small animal-beddings) and coconut-fiber and is impregnated with a solution of liquid mineral-fertilizer and yeast-extract.
I am still not sure, if this could be improved. Others use a 50/50 mixture of Perlite and N-impregnated wood-fiber (TORESA). I have not compared these yet but in order to preserve the endophyte wood-chips (or fiber) and possibly bark-/leaf-mould should be applied. Perlite or Lava should provide for good air-content of the substrate.
A higher content of coconut-fiber seems to prohibit mould on the woodchips.
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Hello Winwen ,
Thank you for your good pictures and any information , but can you concretely , let us all proceed from the beginning , products , quantities , or if you sterilize heat , at what temperature you store vials of planting ,...........
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Christian,
I think that a complete description in such detail would be far beyond a simple posting here. I would have to write a kind of brochure with many pages of text, tables and photos, but that would need a lot of time which I am nearly always lacking (father of 4 children - 2,4,10 and 11 years old).
I will always try to answer concrete questions as far as I can, but I have currently not enough time for such a project :-[ sorry!
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Erwin, it sounds like you have a lovely family - your plants must be a nice quiet hobby for you! I am grateful for the time you take to share your experiences with us here :-*
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Thanks for the info Erwin
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Lovely looking Platanthera bifolias. the ones I bought this year had rotten 'tails' and the replacements were also the same. What might have caused this?
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Erwin, it sounds like you have a lovely family - your plants must be a nice quiet hobby for you! I am grateful for the time you take to share your experiences with us here :-*
Thanks for your warm words, Maggie!
Gardening -which also includes your forum in a broad sense- is my way of recreation.
@mark: maybe this is due to bad aereation of the substrate, which is often the case if organic content is too high or the mineralic content is not coarse enough. Especially when grown in pots/containers in which the substrate always tends to be compressed at the bottom. In such a case the substrate also becomes wet at the bottom while it can be bone-dry on the surface, which is especially bad since the (mycotrophic) roots are sitting ABOVE the bulb.
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Hello !
Here is my test seedling Pleione on cardboard , with several essays on different mixture , it is this one that germinates the first base of banana juice.
I apologize for the poor quality of the pictures !
Cordialy
Christian
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Are these seedlings?
I am very excited :D and hope they are. My excitement will no doubt turn to disappointment :'( either because they aren't seedlings or I will now kill them.
Seeded into the cardboard soaked in the water that rotten beech tree pulp had been soaked in and an unknown Dactylorhiza root had been crushed into.
Sown July 27 2011
1. two seedlings
2. the cardboard in its container.
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B1 culture is one of the methods to germinate orchid seeds. I live in Holland and can't discover the adres af the laboratory where you can get the B1.
Is there somebody that knows the internet adres?
thanks, Peter