Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
General Subjects => General Forum => Topic started by: mark smyth on October 25, 2012, 11:08:29 AM
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Does anyone use the Nikon D3200? How have you found it? I want to buy a DSLR before snowdrop season comes
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No experience with the Nikon D3200 Mark, but I would recommend a good macro lens. You''ll get even more stunning photos of snowdrops with a macro lens than with the regular lens you'll get with the body.
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With 24 million pixels and a good lens you can crop and still have a good quality image.
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Mark, I'm not entirely sure but I think the D3200 is an update on the D200 which is the camera I have for the last few years. I had a look at it on the internet and it has the same general appearance though a little more rounded and, perhaps, slightly smaller. These are probably simply a consequence of the ability of the manufacturers to make the electronics smaller. I like the big size - small chunky fingers which find the feel and grip of the D200 very comfortable in the hand.
Presuming it is a development of the D200, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. I use mine with the kit lens which arrived with it for all general photography and have a macro lens for flower photography and am very happy with this arrangement. Were I to invest further I would like another body with a lens on each as I never change lens when outside or away as I fear getting dust/dirt into the body. Perhaps, I am too cautious/nervous about this but that is how I do it.
The controls on the body will give you a great range of options for your photographs and the addition of a macro lens would suit your photography perfectly. Unfortunately, the macro lens are very expensive but do give great photographs. The kit lens gives excellent results; it's just you become used to a macro lens and it is nice to use.
Can't think of the company in Belfast where I bought my camera and lens but they were very good to deal with and their prices were competitive.
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I think this is an entry level DSLR camera with lots of new features. I have a D300, which was the D200 replacement. The D300 was replaced by the D600, which is a full frame version. The D700 and the new D800 are also FX (full frame), but the latter is 36 mega-pixels and more for the professional photographer.
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Mark, An excellent camera to look at is the Panasonic Lumix TZ30. I have just sold my Canon DSLR bodies and lenses, including macro. When I saw the quality of the photos produced by the Panasonic, including macro, I wondered why I had spent all the money on bodies, lenses etc. It has a twenty times zoom and is a whole lot cheaper than going down the DSLR road plus it is a lot lighter to carry.
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Mark,
If dust and water proof is on your list of specs for a DSLR camera maybe you can also take a look at the Pentax K-30.
Formerly a Nikon DSLR fan, but now a Pentax DSLR user, I must say Pentax is as equally good as Nikon is in my opinion.
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Mark,
If dust and water proof is on your list of specs ..........
That should state water resistant instead of water proof......sorry for that :-[. The camera is weather proof.
My current Pentax DSLR is weather proof too. Took it with me in the woods, on a boat, the beach, etc. in all kinds of weather. Never had a problem with dust and rain water unless you want to switch lenses when it is raining :-\.
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Nikon D3000 became Nikon D3100 and now it's the D3200
I want to get in to bird photography which why I would like a DSLR
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Than you'll need a good (super) telephoto lens too.
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The D300 is certainly not weather proof. :-[
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I have a Lumix for my photography as well, but it's a few years old now. No good for birds I think, which I'll be looking into when I replace it soon. I'd like to be able to do some decent distance photography as well. Doubting I'll be able to afford it though. ::)
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Any views on Tamron and Sigma lenses? Amazon has some good deals.
eg http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamron-AF-70-300mm-F4-5-6-Macro/dp/B000HPBTTO/ref=sr_1_18?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1351536246&sr=1-18 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamron-AF-70-300mm-F4-5-6-Macro/dp/B000HPBTTO/ref=sr_1_18?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1351536246&sr=1-18)
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I have a Tamron 35-70 macro lens on my Minolta film camera. Love it. But I have always wondered about those long telephoto macro lenses. How does it let enough light in to get good depth of field in the macro setting? Am I just being too skeptical?
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My macro lens is a Tamron SP AF 90 mm f/2.8 Di. I am very happy with this one on my DSLR.
I also used to own a Tamron 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di for my Nikon DSLR. When you need the 300 mm telelens mode for your bird watching photos, you'll need a tripod or whatever to get clear pictures. Because of the distance between the camera and the bird you'll need to be still otherwise the wanted bird or whatever will most probably not be sharp and focused. Was happy with that lens too.
No experience with a Sigma lens though.
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Mark, both Tamron and Sigma produce good quality independent lenses. The 90 mm Tamron macro that John refers to is widely regarded as one of the best reasonably priced macro lenses - I've been using the older version for years and been very happy with the results (you will have seen what it can do from some of the pictures from when I was over at the Ulster group last year).
I haven't used the Tamron 70-300mm lens but have been using the Sigma version for some time. The 300mm length is fine for many birds and the macro setting that is mentioned involves flicking a switch when it's in the 200-300m focal length range which allows closer focussing than normal. Not a true macro, but I find it a brilliant focal length for photographing dragonflies. The latest version has optical stabilisation (and is about £300-350), but I m using the older version without that facility and whilst it's best use a tripod, you can also use a monopod or rest it on something - I often just use the camera bag if the subject is close to the ground. The big plus for this lens is that they are currently available for £90-110.
I've seen some websites that are a little disparaging about the Sigma lenses, but I've never had any problems with them - the 10-20mm wide angle is superb.
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thanks Peter
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The greatest challenge I found when I switched from a film SLR (Olympus OM1) to digital SLR (Canon Xti) was the greatly reduced size of the image when viewed through the viewfinder. This is in large part due to the crop factor that is a function of the size of the sensor. I find that the image in the viewfinder is small enough that I usually cannot focus manually.
There is a web site: http://snapsort.com/learn/viewfinder-size (http://snapsort.com/learn/viewfinder-size) that gives a good comparison of the viewfinder size for a number of digital SLR's. For this reason I am contemplating buying a new digital SLR that has a full size sensor - not for the extra pixels, but to make it easier to compose and focus while looking through the viewfinder. Even for crop-sensor DSLR's, it seems like Nikon provides a larger viewfinder than comparable Canon cameras.
I recommend any first-time DSLR buyer test out the camera before buying.
Ed
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I've been looking (not seriously, I might add) at the D800, which is FX rather than DX and over 30 Mpixels.
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I can understand wanting a full frame over a cropped frame Anthony, but the fx is still on the higher end of the price range :-\
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Does anyone use a right angle viewer? How do you rate it?
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I use the Nikon D90, and for plants closeups, one of my favourite lenses, the macro 60 mm nikon 2.8, which I have now had for 12 years. I used it with my nikon film bodies and am now using it with my D90 as well
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Does anyone use a right angle viewer? How do you rate it?
I've used one for some time Mark. I find it very useful when photographing low-level subjects as I wear variofocal spectacles and it impossible to see anything through the viewfinder when the subject is close to the ground (like a plant!)
The Nikon one is quite expensive (about £225) I think and I have no experience of it. The one I use is made by Seagull (Chinese company), and is currently on sale for £50 at Premier-Ink where I bought mine. It doesn't quite give you full coverage of the viewfinder at 1:1,and I never use the 2x magnification, but it is fine for precise focussing.
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Thanks Peter. £35 on Amazon
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There's a comment on one of the Amazon reviews about difficulty in using it with manual focussing as the focus on the angled viewfinder is easily moved. I solve this by focussing the angled viewfinder first, ensuring the the illuminated information on the viewfinder screen is sharp then focussing the lens on the subject. Works every time.
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Mark I've used the D3200 and it's a very nice camera, especially well suited to plant photography. I have been taking photographs of plants and flowers with Nikon digital SLR cameras for many years I here are my recommendations;
Nikon D3200 - 24 megapixel for capturing loads of detail, light on features not applicable to plant photography.
Nikkor 85mm f/3.5 DX VR Macro lens - the 105 is more magnification than you need for most flowers
Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D - DIRT CHEAP and oh so useful! I use this for 90% of my plant photographs.
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I bought the D3200 and a 70-300 lens. On my wants list is a 50mm or 100mm macro and a 50-150mm lens.
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I have the AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm 1:2.8G ED lens, which I find very useful.
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Mark, you'll have to change your signature line now that you've gone over to the dark side. ;D
(which is the way that Canon users would describe us Nikon owners!)
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Mark:
Very interesting topic.
Could you post some images using the new set up when you get the chance.
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Arnold I have on going focus problems
Nikon
Canada geese
Brent geese
Lapwings
1. Canon IXUS 230 macro
1. Nikon D3200 70-300 macro lens
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Mark, there are some pretty significant differences between point-and-shoot cameras and digital SLR's. One is that depth of field is significantly less for a DSLR than a point-and-shoot due to the larger sensor size. Essentially, depth-of-field is a function of absolute aperture size, not f-stop (remember that f-stop is the ratio of the focal length and the size of the aperture opening). It is a bit counter-intuitive, but even though you get more pixels with a larger sensor, you get less depth-of-field. So you definitely need to pay more attention to depth-of-field with a dSLR when you are using it - try to shoot at f11 any time you are wanting decent depth of field. Again, it is counter-intuitive, but sharpness actually decreases above f11 even as depth-of-field increases. You can still increase depth-of-field with a dSLR by using a wide-angle lens, or the wide focal length setting with a zoom. Your two Galanthus photos seem to show differing depth-of field ( look at the background in each photo) so I think this is at least part of your issue.
Also, you might want to increase the sharpness setting on your dSLR, the default is typically the middle value, not the sharpest value. It took me a while to figure that out on my dSLR...
Ed
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Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.
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Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.
I had exactly the same problems when I switched to a SLR and thought focussing was out. What Ed is saying is correct and you do have to adapt your photography and consider depth of field more. On close ups you will find much more is less sharp than your focal point but if you look at professional flower photos this is often how they appear. The closer you get to your subject the smaller depth of field will be and sometimes might only be a millimetre or two. A friend who is a professional photographer gave me a good tip re focussing. Remember that when you decide where your focus point is, 1/3 of the area in focus will be in front of that point and 2/3 behind it. I use it all the time. I cannot see much wrong with your photos and they look sharp while with the snowdrop pictures I would expect some to be less focussed as they are out of the 1/3 2/3 area.
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Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.
A tenner to take it off your hands? ;D
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A tenner to take it off your hands? ;D
Raise you to fifteen.
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The lens macro button is now stuck on macro. I tried removing the lens but it doesnt move. Any ideas.
David add a couple of 00s and it could come your way LOL
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David add a couple of 00s and it could come your way LOL
OK. £15.00
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Mark, there is probably a release button for removing the lens - probably to the left of the lens when you are holding it in the shooting position. Press the button, keep pressed, and turn the lens.
I'm no help to you on the macro button.
I would persevere with the camera. I think you will become used to it and find it far more versatile.
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Mark,
If it's the Sigma lens you bought, then the macro setting only works between 200-300mm. Turn the zoom dial back to 100-150 and the macro button should click back to the 'off' position.
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Just in from work and will have a go. Thanks
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Macro lenses
Is it better to buy a fixed focal length macro, eg 50mm, or a 17-70mm macro. The latter is available over here ex display for £239.
The 50mm on Amazon is £259. The 105mm is too expensive at £430
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Mark, I use the Sigma 17-70mm Macro and have been thrilled with the results.
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Good to know thanks
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Mark, do you use automatic focus on plants ? If so, try manual focusing. Remember, the camera does not know what you wish to take . A slight movement on your part can alter the point of focus to a blade of grass in front or behind the flower you are trying to capture.
After you have taken some pictures on automatic settings and put them on to your computer, right click a picture, on the screen left click properties and then choose details. This will give you the technical details of the camera's settings.
In your camera's menu, you should also have an option for setting the sharpness and dynamic range etc. Remember, a digital camera is a computer with a lens attached.
Have a good read at the camera manual and try the different focusing options. I am sure the camera and lens combination is perfectly good for your requirements - it just takes some time to get the hang of what they can do.
Unless you are a gymnast and can lie in very uncomfortable positions, some form of tripod and remote release would be a great help in photographing snowdrops. Winter light is not strong. so longer exposures are necessary as apertures need to be a minimum of f8/11 for close -ups
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THanks Tom. The snowdrops are in dark shade caused by low sun and a fence.
I've now taken more photos but this time in bright sunny conditions and of swans and ducks. The photos are great.
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THanks Tom. The snowdrops are in dark shade caused by low sun and a fence.
I've now taken more photos but this time in bright sunny conditions and of swans and ducks. The photos are great.
I've seen them on a facebook page you posted them to and they are fantastic. Looks like you're really getting the hang of the camera now.
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Thanks Martin
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Yep, them's the ones 8) 8) 8)
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Mark:
Details is just great, can discern individual feathers easily.
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My goodness Mark. Excellent pics. 8)
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Not a lot wrong there then!!!!
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Great pictures Mark, especially the magpie. I'm surprised it let you get that close - your sure it's only a 300mm lens you have? ;)
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Yep just a 300. Big try out tomorrow. I'm away to strangford lough. Was there last Sunday but the wrong side. Sun in front meant all birds where shaded
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I tried out my new Sigma 17-70mm macro lens today. It wasnt the best day to try it out. Although it was warm the sky was over cast. I could focus using manual but on AF the lens kept hunting for the subject. Should I have also selected the macro setting on my camera dial?
Do any of you use monopods? Can you recommend one or do they all simply do the same job but vary in price?
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It is notoriously difficult to use auto focus on macro lenses. If you have a focus limiter button on your lens, refer to your lens manual to see what range it covers and if using auto-focus set it accordingly. However, at macro ranges, even a petal moving in the wind will cause the lens to hunt. It is much more reliable to use manual focus.
To be honest, a monopod is not really much use for macro work. They are designed mainly to take the weight of large telephoto lenses. A decent tripod and ball head are almost a necessity if you wish to take macro pictures with a good success rate. The smaller the flower the closer you need to be and hand holding is impossible. If you think about it, can you hold your hands and body absolutely still for about 10 seconds without moving a couple of mm. I certainly could not, even when I was younger and fitter.
For a period of about 10 years I photographed Orchids mainly in Greece. I had to lie on the ground, set up the camera on the tripod,manually focus, check the depth of field hold on to a cable release and wait until the light was right and the breeze had stopped blowing. It took me an average of 30 minutes to get one picture!
Again you will just have to practice with your camera and lens until you know exactly how it will react under changing conditions.
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Thanks Tom.
Anyone know why Pro Camera in Carlisle are so cheap? Have you used them before?
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Thanks Tom.
Anyone know why Pro Camera in Carlisle are so cheap? Have you used them before?
Don't know, Mark- but their reviews seem favourable : http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews249632.html (http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews249632.html)
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They import their goods from outside the UK - GREY IMPORTS.
I got them to quote for a pair of Swarovski el 10 x 32 binoculars and the were quite a bit cheaper than other sites. I also did some research on the company and they seemed to be OK.
They have no sale room and the Carlisle address seems to be an office that processes the orders to be supplied from wherever they source their goods..
If you do buy something that goes wrong, the UK authorised agents will tell you to take it back to the shop where you purchased it as it is their responsibility to repair or replace the item.
You get the equipment cheaper, but may run into trouble if things go wrong.
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THanks again.
The lens I want, 150-500mm, is around £200 cheaper than other suppliers
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Do people still use extension tubes?
On window cleaning poles!!!
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People clean windows? :o
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We're in a bungalow.
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People clean windows? :o
You could hardly include me in 'people', Maggi!!!!
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You could hardly include me in 'people', Maggi!!!!
It's the Season of Goodwill, Cliff........
[attachimg=1]
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It's the Season of Goodwill, Cliff........
(Attachment Link)
Accepted in the spirit that it is intended ... x
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Thanks Cliff .... it is true that there are people .... then there are people like us........ ;D
[attachimg=1]
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Meanwhile, I would say I'd like an answer to my question, but it isn't there now.
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Meanwhile, I would say I'd like an answer to my question, but it isn't there now.
I was tidying, Anthony - and tidied the wrong message..... :-X
You were asking " do people still used extension tubes" , I believe........
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Extension tubes are still useful on tele. lenses to allow close focussing. The attached picture of demoiselle flies would have been impossible with either of my macro lenses as to move in close would have spooked them. I put an extension tube on a 500mm lens and this allowed me to come no closer than about 5 feet. The quality is not as good as the prime lens unaided and it alters the light transmission but without it - no picture.