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« Last post by arisaema on October 02, 2024, 09:15:26 PM »
Your math still doesn't make sense... A pendant with cable and plug is some £8, a Philips 17,5W LED light bulb at the local supermarket is £5.50. To reach the same light strenght of one Temu-LED I'd need at least 2, for a total of £27. Why would paying double be better?
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« Last post by Vinny 123 on October 02, 2024, 07:56:41 PM »
4-5 standard LED lamps would cost quite a bit less and do the same. As I said, they are a con which they get away with because of how eyes work. You'd need a cheap meter to realise/discover what a con they are. And the power of the SON and the fluorescents compared to the LEDs? Hardly surprising that they run hot in comparison!! As for noisy?  There was something very wrong somewhere. (Etiolation is abnormally long internodal distance - controlled by blue light - even weak winter sunlight has enough to stop that)
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« Last post by arisaema on October 02, 2024, 07:18:24 PM »
They are a con. Yet they work fine, the proof is in the pudding!  I have already used them for a season, and nothing got etiolated, both perennial seedlings kept in the cold room and chili peppers in a warmer room... I used to run a 650W HPS light years ago, hot and noisy and horribly yellow, along with tons of fluorescent tubes - and honestly, the plants I grew under those lights were worse off than what I raised using dirt cheap Temu-LEDs. At £14... If they die after a couple of years they would still be cheaper than every other option.   
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« Last post by Vinny 123 on October 02, 2024, 06:38:52 PM »
They are a con.
Take a look on Philips' website about horticultural lighting. There is far more information there than anyone could ever need, unless your income/business depended on it.
They also compare to HPS and fluorescent for plant culture. (HPS emits almost entirely in the yellow-orange with minute amounts of other colours, with a tiny blip (increase) in the blue from the mercury).
In total darkness, 45W would need to be tightly focused over something like 30 x 30 cm. If it is rated at 45W, somewhere around 10-15W will be lost in the running gear, so the LEDs will be running at around 30-35W. You can get the same from LED lamps costing a very, very few ££.
Say that you get 100 lumens per watt and there is 35W of LED (which is unlikely as blue saps power (high energy per photon) and lower lumens per watt, and worse), you will have 3500 lumens. Miraculously tightly and evenly concentrated over one square metre that is 3500 lux - very, very dim sunlight.
The multi-colours just add to the gimmick. Although the appearance of the plants may be something like "normal" by eye, the plants just need a little bit of blue and all the rest in red-orange-yellow. Photosynthesis is stimulated most around the orange, blue controls inter-nodal distance, and you don't need much.
Even worse with panels, especially large ones, you cannot replace anything that dies (LEDs, not the plants). Cheap ones even worse again, as they have short lives.
Philips sell one lighting package for a 4 foot cube growing chamber - it just shouts cannabis to me - 650W.
"Standard" single strips of round 1m for plant growth are 100W (actual LED power).
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« Last post by arisaema on October 02, 2024, 04:41:12 PM »
I'm using LED grow lights from Temu of all places, ~£14 per piece, 45W. They're certainly nothing fancy, but I used them last winter, and they do seem to work much better than the old HPS and fluorescent tubes. There's a window, but it's facing out under the balcony, so barely gets any light in winter. The rest of the basement is far too warm, with the shed and garage too cold in the coldest part of winter.  That said, what are you looking to over-winter? 2 pots? 20 pots? Too many, especially once imports arrive and seeds have been sown... I had a slim hope both species would tolerate dark if they stayed around freezing, it's my first year growing either.
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« Last post by Vinny 123 on October 02, 2024, 12:31:39 PM »
To provide sufficient light with no daylight, would cost a lot of money.
The human eye - most eyes out there - are amazing biological engineering. Most people can read, though not comfortably, with 10 lux illumination, in the UK, midday sunlight on an overcast day will provide around 5-10,000 lux or a lot less if really cloudy, a clear midday sky in summer will provide over 100,000 lux.
Does your eye allow you to appreciate the >x10,00 difference? Or the >>10x difference overcast to bright sunlight?
Horticultural LED lighting , purposely designed with highy directional beams, to produce growth, rather than just survival, runs at 5-600W per square metre. (As efficient as they are, that energy ends up as heat, very little is absorbed by the plants. That is basic physics, not really biology/botany.)
Even sgnificantly supplementing poor/dim natural light is costly, in both senses - to buy and run.
That said, what are you looking to over-winter? 2 pots? 20 pots? A single golfball low watt LED in a good reflector, can provide 1500-2000 lux 20-30cm below, but you'd need one for each pot unless the pots were very small.
Curious?
Available online for download - Southern African Bulb Group, Newsletter 50.
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« Last post by arisaema on October 02, 2024, 10:19:14 AM »
Thank you both, I feared they would demand light... Will likely have some LEDs running in the basement, so the Arthropodium candidum 'Rubrum' can go there. The Dierama... Unheated wintergarden will have to do, the main issue there is that it tends to get hot in daytime, and I was hoping to avoid splitting them until spring. They're considered too tender for Denmark, but I refuse to believe it until I've tried!
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« Last post by Vinny 123 on October 02, 2024, 09:43:54 AM »
My greenhouses are very typical aluminium-framed, with the ridges being complicated aluminium extrusions which includes C-shaped (female) sections which act as the hinges for the roof vents, which have corresponding (male) profiles which slide into the C-shaped part of the ridge bar.
Anyone who has erected an aluminium greenhouse will follow that (hopefully).
The very top of the vents have started leaking, which, with all the recent rain, means quite a wet floor inside the greenhouse.
The inner part of the ridge bar forms a flange to which the roof bars are attached, and the water is dripping from that on one side of each roof vent.
I have had things apart and cleared build-up of moss/lichen and even worked the vents a few inches eaither way along the ridge bar, back to front of the greenhouse, but it still leaks.
How, where is the water making its way in? Why? Cure? (It should not need caulk, it was water-tight for way over ten years without any.)
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« Last post by Jeffnz on October 02, 2024, 12:32:08 AM »
Thanks, cant apply the same solution in our garden, but handy to know.
May ultimately resort to pot growing as the lack of summer rain cannot be assumed.
Most of my seed is from peacock hybrids.
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Growing Morea for the first time... I am advised that the plants should be kept dry for the summer months. In the garden this may be difficult to achieve, do you have any issues with the garden plants that you have, or is your climate such that you get little or no rain over summer?
Hi Jeff, our climate is mostly dry in summer but sometimes we get rain - one solution I have for this is to plant summer dry bulbs where any summer moisture is sucked up by active roots of perennials, trees/shrubs and even annuals which don't need extra water, cheers fermi
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