Log 2-14 January 2009

[David Nicholson]

Ian, the new format shows your pics off a treat.

Just a couple of points. Do you sow all your Lilium seed now regardless of wether they are epigeal or hypogeal species please? Thanks for the winter watering tips, I've cut and pasted a copy, underlined most of it in red ink, put in a plastic envelope and taped to my greenhouse potting bench!

[David Pilling]

I hope you'll show the pot of nomocharis again later. I think there are over 200 seeds in it.

[Roma]

Ian, your bulb log pictures look great on my 22" screen!  I agree with you about just enjoying growing bulbucodium type narcissus.  I find it difficult to decide sometimes if they are what they say on the label.  I have three pots of Narcissus romieuxii subsp. albidus var. zaianicus, two from seed and one obtained as bulbs.  they are all fairly similar, but in allthe pots most of the flowers have a rather crumpled appearance.  Do you think this would be genetic or cultural?

[Ian Y]

Do you sow all your Lilium seed now regardless of wether they are epigeal or hypogeal species please?

That is a good point. It is just those that germinate without the need of a cold period and these include Nomocharis - those that require a cold period you could sow in the autumn. Some have a delayed germination and require a number of cold periods so it is not simply a decision between the epigeal or hypogeal germination types. As a basic guide if you want to avoid the problem of premature germination and you do not know the germination type then sow them all in late December or early January.

I hope you'll show the pot of nomocharis again later. I think there are over 200 seeds in it.

Yes I will show its progress in future bulb logs.

I have three pots of Narcissus romieuxii subsp. albidus var. zaianicus, two from seed and one obtained as bulbs.  they are all fairly similar, but in allthe pots most of the flowers have a rather crumpled appearance.  Do you think this would be genetic or cultural?

Roma I would suspect it is cultural but knowing your skills with bulbs it is not you that is to blame. Most of this group come out with the corona all crumpled and it continues to expand and grow for some time before it reaches its full size. With our poor light and cold damp conditions this does not always happen so the flower starts to fade without ever having reached its prime. Having said that most of the forms that I have do fully expand so it may just be that you garden is that bit colder than we are.
Occasionally some coronas have a distinct fold in them which never expands out - that could be genetic or a seasonal mutation in the cells.

[ian mcenery]

Very interesting discussion about epigeal etc germination so I did a search to find out more. Apparently the RHS have listed species by type and the link is here. Marvellous what you learn on this forum

https://www.rhs.org.uk/learning/publications/pubs/garden0902/lilies.asp

[Cgull49]

Ian, one of your pictures shows the emerging leaves of crocus laevigatus.  How long will these leaves remain in growth their first year.  Generally, I find that my first year seedlings do not remain in active growth as long as the older plants in the same pot.  Is this normal, abnormal?  What have been your experiences with different types of bulb seedlings?

[Ian Y]

Rob

I always try and keep the seedling leaves going for as long as possible - the bigger you can get the corms or bulbs in the first year the better.

Planting the seeds at depth does help the leaves grow on longer because the compost there is cooler and is not so inclined to dry out so quickly as the compost near the surface.
It is this drying out allied with the increase in temperature at the surface that sends the young corms into an early dormancy.