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Apart from that, can someone explain why Frit eduadii must be cut in half HORIZONTALLY in order to make two bulbs? Surely it would have to be vertically, through the base of the bulb?
Ah, but doing it on a variegated Frit imperialis doesn't work as all the resulting bulbs have different variegation Susan
Its not the propagation method that makes them look sick, normal green leaved F. imperialis bulbs are fine, it is the fact that some of them have too much yellow in them and a bit of pink variegation. When I saw it I realized I was being stupid thinking that the variegation (gene?) would be evenly spread throughout the mass of the bulb. I presume tissue propagation is also difficult for variegated plants as part of the leaf is pure yellow and part pure green.It will be interesting to see next year how they perform, the size of the bulbs weren't really different between the various types of variegation but I don't suppose the pure yellow ones will be able to survive many years without chlorophyll. Each leaf that is shown is a different bulb that hadn't been separated in the photo, they are now, and will appear again in the spring.The bottom halves of the bulbs do not produce extra bulbs but do flower with normal variegation and produce a replacement bulb in the autumn.Hope this explains it a bit, no doubt someone will have a more scientific explanation, I am only a propergater Susan
Gote - I think you're referring to a graft-chimera. The possibility of a chimera was what I was thinking about when I said that g+y was a more interesting result.
Gote,I know that Convallaria. It is very unstable with me. Although I have a lot propagated, various parts of the clump are variegated on different years and I can't sell it as I can't guarantee the variegation. Some years are better than others, I have tried digging out the green parts but the next year they could be variegated and the rest green .It will be interesting to see how the young Frits develop in the next few years. I will keep everyone informed.susan