Corydalis 2014

[Steve Garvie]

Cyril I purchased it a year ago from Paul Christian.

I previously had a few tubers that had "clumped up" from an initial purchase from Janis Ruksans some years back, but they dried out in the summer of 2008. It's such an attractive wee plant that I had to get another when I saw it for sale again.

[Lesley Cox]

  The problem is that right now you can only see the corydalis as they are so dominant.

I would be quite happy to have this problem.

[Leena]

C.ornata is beautiful!
I once planted one bulb, it came up the next spring but only with small leaves and never after that. Could it be that it needs drier place than C.solida which does well in the same bed (and also C.turtschaninovii does well there)?

[arisaema]

Leena;

I doubt it needs drier conditions than turtschaninovii, I grew it for years in my (soaking wet) S Norwegian garden...

Jacek,

Could the main shots with flower bulbs have frozen off in previous years? That happened occasionally in cold winters. It dies down naturally in summer, so the heat shouldn't be that much of an issue. I grew it in a moist spot in half shade.

[Steve Garvie]

Ornata does best in cool, moist semi-shade where it can avoid a summer baking. In our maritime climate it rises too early and can be hit with Spring frosts but I suspect that it will do well in cold continental winter climates, but be wary of late frost as the new growth seems quite sensitive.

[Leena]

Leena;
I doubt it needs drier conditions than turtschaninovii, I grew it for years in my (soaking wet) S Norwegian garden...

Thank you Arisaema and Steve. I will have to try it again.

[Jacek]

I like Corydalis nobilis at this early stage of development. Leaves are so nice with this characteristic olive or bronzy tint (not easily visible on the picture). And the flower stalk is also nice. Later when fully developed it is still nice, but the green colour becomes "average" and the flowers are too pale for me.

It grows well for me in any spot except places covered with thick leaf mulch. Last year was the first with seeds, but I don't know if I have any seedlings, yet.

At the first picture - accompanied by Corydalis lutea that feels far too well in my garden

At the last picture - can you differentiate the leaves of C. solida Beth Evans and C. nobilis? They grow in one spot.

[Brian W]

About the Corydalis ellipticarpa shown as a spring plant by Jacek.   This can make an excellent display of flowers and seems to me one of the best non-tuberous species.  I have three different forms from Chen Yi.  Easy to grow in northern England in very large pots or open ground with deep humusy soil, with added lime and moderate amounts of fertilizer.   Moist, but not wet in winter, and avoid getting too dry at any time for the rest of the year.

[Steve Garvie]

Corydalis cashmeriana

[Leena]

Two tall Corydalis, the first one is C.cava'Alba' and the second one is C.marshalliana.

[Jacek]

Certainly looks like C. ellipticarpa, a picture of it in flower would confirm it.

Bjornar,

After 6 weeks the corydalis is in full bloom now. Would you be so kind and confirm if it is C., ellipticarpa?

It is now 50 cm tall. This is the first time it blooms nice and abundant for me. I even started to like the bronzy older flowers. I don't believe winter frost prevented flowering in the previous years - previous winter was even milder than the last one. I believe it just needs time to settle. It is now 4 (may be 5) years from planting. As it is a surface grower - the settlement might be prolonged due to deep planting (I always do so to prevent frost damage)

It is a stout plant - not leggy like most flexuosas for me. It clearly needs continuous moisture to grow well. Seems to be more prone to drought damage than flexuosas. Seems not to mind the shade.

Due to early growth, dense foliage and height it may outcompete spring bulbs.

Will see if seeds is set this year.

First picture at the start of flowering about a week ago.

[Brian W]

Jacek

The four photos certainly look similar to ones which Magnus Liden identified (based on images) for me as C. ellipticarpa complex.   I got three different forms from Chen Yi Nursery in 2005 under the names nigro-apiculata, grandifloraum and temolana.  (All nonsense names!)   The first two are quite similar and correspond well to descriptions of ellipticarpa, but the last differs considerably (? different species).   Have attached a photo taken today of the one which am convinced is ellipticarpa.

Brian W

[Leena]

I have one small seedling of Corydalis panda. I'm wondering if I should plant it to my woodland bed where Corydalis elata and Corydalis solida grows well or should I plant it somewhere more dry, maybe a sand bed or something like that. I don't want to lose it because I have just that one seedling.
Does anyone else grow Corydalis panda and where would you advise me to plant it?

[Susan Band]

Hi Lena. I think it prefers a cooler place, it grows quickly so might flower this year. It is not long lived and stored seed doesn't germinate well, the best way to keep it going is to poke the seed into the ground around the plant.  I thought I had lost it but found a seedling which is now flowering well and will try to get it back to quantity again. Susan

[Brian W]

Hi Leena  Assuming you've got the real Corydalis panda, suggest planting in a large pot with plenty of humus including a small amount of lime and then placing in an open position to get the maximum sunlight.  However, it probably ought to be taken into a greenhouse overwinter to avoid the risk of rotting, though the pot should not be too dry.  As it comes from a high altitude, likely that the seed needs overwinter cold before germinating.
Brian W