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I'll probably have the details on the autumnale sowing date but it's dark so it will need to be another day. I do know these have been absolute bruisers - I have two other pots more or less packed with 1 inch tubers and I think a few other singletons. I've been sending the seed in regularly to the Cyclamen Society marked up appropriately. I thought, but I can't be sure that the seedlings from the original plants gave me quite a variety of different colours but they may have all been pink.
Ian, part of my plan for the seedling was to be "really mean" to one set of them - I think I've got the dryness but I'm not sure we have the heat and that may be the key. When I bought the tuber directly from Peter Moore on a visit he told me I could have it as long as I didn't complain that it flowered in spring - makes me wonder if he also couldn't get it to flower in the autumn either. These are I am sure absolutely genuine plants but it seems given a chance they slip back into old habits.
When I bought the tuber directly from Peter Moore... These are I am sure absolutely genuine plants...
There's a photo of the deep pink form of C. persicum var. autumnale in the new Cyclamen book, and a very interesting and useful article by forumist Oron Peri on it's distribution, variation, characteristic differences between colonies and growth habits. Bit too long to reproduce all the info about it in it's natural environment but, in cultivation away from its country of origin, Oron recommends treating var. autumnale in a similar way to C. rohlfsianum so as to encourage it to behave normally and produce its flowers before the leaves. Oron notes that in the wild they "do not grow in the vicinity of rocks by chance, it seems that the dew that forms on rocks provides a source of humidity as a result of the changes between day/night temperatures; in autumn the nights start to get cooler and consequently drops of water form on the surface of the rock and trickle down into the crevices where the cyclamen grow. This might also provide an explanation for the fact that the flowering time of this variety is so precise, the first flowers are present by 15 October, whereas the flowering of var. persicum depends entirely on the first rains of winter." (Usually, rain does not fall in the localities in which C. persicum grows before mid-November). So, he recommends growing in small pots so that the soil dries out quicker with water withheld from May until the plants have mature flowers but check the tubers once per month and add a bit of water if they start to shrink/soften. Water regularly when the flowers are mature. It grows in shade in the wild but he recommends full sun in cultivation. Hand pollination is necessary for seed set. In Oron's experience they take longer to grow, with smaller tubers, are shy to set seed, germination is slow and unreliable, and they take 3-5 years to reach flowering size! Depending on locality, they flower between mid October and January.As I say, an interesting read which I hope he doesn't mind me part-reproducing here.
...and this is the best enticement I've seen to tempt me to buy the book !
Thanks Steve I do have the book and may still be able to lift to read for a couple more years . I have read Oron's very helpful comments. Obviously the difficulty for me is translating his very good advice into culture in the UK is where I am failing. As a matter of interest he mentions that it should be treated in a similar way to rohlfsianum ( a plant that so far I grow but rarely get flowers) so when I crack the code with either it could be bothI posted x wellensiekii a month ago and couldn't resist doing it again these can be very attractive