2015 - Robert's adventures in the Northern Sierra Nevada - California

[Robert]

Trond,

Yes, our family has been in California for a long time. The Marshes and Cadys, part of the family, were part of the rescue party for the Donner Party. I think that one can google "the Donner Party" to find out more. John Marsh (Marsh is my middle name) was given one of the original Spanish land grants near the town called Brentwood. His wife was Santee Sioux, so in this way the family goes back in the Americas to the very beginning. (Greenleaf is a Cherokee name in the family too, but this is another story.) My grandfather farmed West Wind Farm near Brentwood and my father grew up on this farm. Marsh Creek flows through Brentwood, named after my great, great grandfather John Marsh. There is a road called 'Morgan Territory Road" that ends near Brentwood. As a little boy my father remembers the Morgans. Everybody stayed at home when the Morgans came to town as they generally got drunk at the saloon and caused much trouble before returning to Morgan Territory, a wilderness around the eastern base of Mount Diablo. Morgan Territory is still a wilderness and an excellent place to see wildflowers in California, many of them rare.

Right now we are having many wild fires nearby. It is very smoky and hot again too. 40 C plus for the next few days and then more sub tropical moisture.

The link to Haugalandet was interesting. Your forests seem very different from ours. It appears that there are many more hardwood and deciduous trees.

Ten years ago, I took my wife to see the Gerle Creek cabin. Like you, it was very difficult to see new owners in the cabin. For me it is best not to return.    However, being at Loon Lake and other sites in the area feels good. Maybe I can build a new cabin. My wife and I have talked about such an idea, or even moving back to Calpine. More likely is keeping the house in Sacramento (city  ) and a new cabin somewhere near Gerle Creek.

Where I go on Wednesday may depend on the wild fire situation.

[Robert]

A cabin in the mountains would be great! I have an abiding memory of camping in a cave on the side of the Western Arthurs in Tasmania and watching the sun rise across the landscape. Completely incredible to see the world wake up!

We don't have fires here in Kent but it is interesting that after the 1987 storm which devastated woodlands all around it was those that were left alone that recovered best. The desire to tidy up and replant is a strong one but nature is far more effective in these situations. A little different in your own garden though - ours looked quite a mess for a while, and we had similar damage more recently in Christmas 2013 which we are still clearing up.

Tim,

"See the world wake up" is very similar to a Cherokee saying when one sees the dawning of a new day, "she's coming alive".

Tasmania must be a very beautiful place!? You have sparked my interest and hope to find out more.

[Hoy]

Robert,

That was quite a story! (I googled John Marsh and also Donner party  ) It is in the middle of the history of US. As a boy I liked to read about of "Cowboys and Indians" and settlers in the "Wild West". This reminded me very much of that!

Although I think every Norwegian have relatives in US and for that reason have been interested in the history of America, few of us have contact with them. We have met some of my wife's American relatives though.


The commonest kind of forest in N. is spruce, and pine. In the mountains and north it is birch, and along the southern coast it is oak and mixed deciduous forests. The only native evergreen tree is Ilex aquifolium, up to 10m tall - usually it is more shrublike.

[Robert]

I had a good outing today. 

It was 106 F (41 C ) at the farm today. It was not much cooler in the high country. I did not bring a thermometer, however my guess is that it was in the 90's F.

I will be reporting soon! Friday or so.

[Robert]

GROUSE & HEMLOCK LAKES

PART I

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Weather: Clear

Temperature, High: 106 F (41 C),  Low: 63 F (17 C)



Wednesday's outing started at Wright's Lake, elevation 6,985 feet (2,129 meters). My goal this day was to reach the highest elevation possible with the shortest distance to travel. By gauging the development of the plants along the way I was hoping this would help me plan trips for the remainder of the summer season.

Smith Lake is at approximately 9,000 feet (2,743 meters) and is located 3.5 miles (5.6 km) from the trail head. This seemed to be an easy destination to reach.

Wright's Lake is surrounded by many small ponds, marshes, and seasonally moist meadows. There is an incredible variety of plants that grow in and around the marshes and meadows. This proved to slow my progress from the very beginning.



From the very beginning of this outing there were still many species still or just beginning to bloom.

Flowering plants of Apocynum androsaemifolium, Spreading Dogbane, lined the first portion of the trail.



With them were drifts of Aster occidentalis (pictured), as well as Ragged Aster, Aster integrifolium.



Aster occidentalis grows in seasonally moist meadows. This type of meadow can become quite dry by August and September even when there is abundant precipitation during the winter and spring. They are surprisingly tolerant of dry conditions. In the garden at lower elevations the flowers tend to fade a bit, however careful selection of seedlings can ameliorate this situation.



Castilleja miniata is a common resident of the seasonally moist meadows in this area. There were a few still in bloom.

[Robert]

Senecio triangularis, sometimes called Arrowleaf Groundsel, is a very common wildflower in our region. The species enjoys moisture throughout the growing season. I know from my cultivation experience at the farm that this species will not tolerate dry conditions and enjoys well composted soil. I like to grow it, so I make the effort to keep them happy.

This is the first photograph of this species that turned out this season!



Another one of my favorites in the moist areas is Aconitum columbianum. Not only were the plants in bloom, but they also had many flower buds still to open.



There were many species to check on in these meadows including Gentiana newberryi (too early to bloom yet). I needed to move on to higher ground if I was to have any chance to reach Smith Lake.

Even as I moved out of the meadow lands to high terrain there were still many plants to investigate. Canada Goldenrod, Solidago canadensis var. elongata is another common late blooming species in this region. It may be common but I find it a delightful plant for the garden at the farm. It blooms for me for many months, and is not a thug at all.



This time of year Aster breweri is a frequent trail companion.



There was so very much for me to see. By the time I reached this point in the journey it was clear that I would not be able to reach Smith Lake.

A view looking back to Wright's Lake.

[Robert]

As I moved up the mountain the trail traversed open rocky terrain as well as small forested areas. In the open sunny areas Sedum obtusatum was frequently seen growing in the seams of rocks. This is a beautiful species with attractive yellow flowers and colorful succulent foliage that can range from pale green, bright yellow, to bright red depending on the season.



Pellaea bridgesii is a rock fern that inhabits somewhat shady cervices in these sunny, dry, rocky areas.

Earlier in the season the open, sunny, rocky areas are a blaze of color with Penstemon newberryi, Phlox diffusa, Penstemon laetus, and Eriophyllum lanatum among the species that brighten the route.



Creambush, Holodiscus discolor, is one of the late blooming shrubby species of this sunny, dry, rocky habitat.

At the times the shrubby species can become quite thick, becoming a high elevation chaparral.  Quercus vaccinifolia, Huckleberry Oak, and Arctostaphylos nevadensis, Pinemat Manzanita were two other species I saw in this type of situation on this day.



I came across Salix scouleriana fairly frequently this day. This species grows in dry locations, unlike most of our other willow species.



In one of the shady wooded areas I came across a patch of Pyrola picta. The plants grew right next to the trail and the timing was terrible for a photograph. A group of a dozen of so came along, with their accompanying dust just as I was attempting to focus on the photographs. Being questioned about my activities did not help. Hopefully I can get a better photograph in the future.

[Robert]

This is a typical view in the Sierra Nevada - A patch work of light and dark, granite and greenery.



As I moved steadily higher the trail traversed the stream that empties from Grouse Lake. Here near the stream was the late blooming Ranger Bottons, Sphenosciadium capitellatum.



Finally I arrived at Grouse Lake, approximately 8,100 feet (2,469 meters).



Grouse Lake is an interesting place to explore. In the marshy areas around the lake grow many species. Phyllodoce breweri, Cassiope mertensiana, Kalmia polifolia ssp. microphylla, Vaccinium caespitosum, and Ledum glandulosum are among the Ericaceae species that grow in this marsh-like habitat.



Tofieldia occidentalis, various Salix species, and Aster alpigenus are a few of the other species found in this habitat.

[Tim Ingram]

Robert - these walks of yours are just marvellous! We live in such a small crowded island in the UK that these wild places are even more important. I love reading about them, hence this article I wrote for the Rock Garden Quarterly a few years ago. The views of the mountains are wonderful but also the little out of focus Pyrola - what a fascinating plant! I wonder how many of the people walking past you would have even noticed it. California is coming to life courtesy of the 'Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum' 

The second picture shows an excellent book I have just finished reading by Tristan Gooley (along with a compilation of John Muir's essays in the Wilderness) - on top of the Snowdonia National Park in N. Wales. Must look out for more writing about the wild places of America.

[Robert]

Tim,

My experience is that most hikers never notice the more subtle wildflowers. A few weeks back I was on my hands and knees examining a Juncus species with a hand lens near the edge of the trail. A forest service employee came by and questioned me about my activities. When I told him that I was looking at Juncus species he looked puzzled. "Rushes" I said. "Oh!", his reply, still puzzled, "They grow by the creek". Even after I pointed them out to him, he still did not seem to be aware of the blooming rushed all around.

This fellow turned out to be an interesting person. He knew many of the plants by their common names.

Tim, you always recommend excellent books. I hope that other forumist read John Muir's wilderness essays. He was an excellent writer and the stories are fascinating!

[Robert]

GROUSE AND HEMLOCK LAKES

PART II

I ended part I of my journey having arrived at Grouse Lake. The peak bloom season for the Ericaceae had long since pasted, however I took some time to poke around to see what I might find.

A few half faded blossoms on this Kalmia polifolia ssp. microphylla were all that were left from the riot of flowers that are produced in these marsh habitats during peak flowering season.



There is the second show to come with the autumn. Come cold weather, the deciduous Vaccinium caespitosum (grayish foliage plant, center right) will turn brilliant scarlet-red. The contrast with its bright green evergreen neighbors, Phyllodoce breweri and Kalmia polifolia ssp. microphylla is stunning.



Elsewhere in this marshy area, Aster alpigenus var. andersonii (now known as Oreostemma alpigenus) were coming into peak bloom.



This Aster has proven quite adaptable to garden culture at the farm. More selection needs to be done, as some seedlings produce multiple flowers over a long period of time - late summer to well into the fall.



Here in the high mountains Mimulus primuliodes continues with a few blossoms as long as the moisture holds out. This characteristic is consistent even with the plants at the farm, where the last flowers have finally faded in the 41 C heat.

[Robert]

The conifers are beautiful at this elevation. Tsuga mertensiana (to the right of the large trunk of Pinus monticola) is seen frequently above 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) in this part of the Sierra Nevada.



The foliage of this Hemlock is a very attractive blue-green.



Another conifer seen frequently at this elevation in our Western White Pine, Pinus monticola. It is a five-needle pine as is its lower elevation cousin Pinus lambertiana, the Sugar Pine. Both species have long narrow cones, however those of Sugar Pine are at least twice the size or more of those of Western White Pine.



The afternoon was wearing on and the higher ridges were still to explore.



So it was time to continue on and upward toward Hemlock Lake. In the spring these trails are amazing. Like this trail pictured, many trails are lined with Phyllodoce, Cassiope, and many other wildflowers. I promise to return in the future with photographs of this riot of color.

[Gabriel B]

It's wonderful to see all your pictures, Robert. I visited California once a few years ago (2008, perhaps) on a family trip, and found the many ecosystems from the high mountains to the Central Valley fascinating. There's so much diversity in a small area. We stayed briefly in the maquis zone and in Calaveras State Park among the huge trees. It was June, and I have pleasant memories of the sugar pines, incense cedars, white firs, and sequoias, and white and yellow azaleas (Rhododendron occidentale).

During the trip (I think), my parents bought me a book: Discovering Sierra Trees by Stephen Arno. He describes the trees poetically, and Jane Gyer's drawings wonderfully portray the unique habit of each species. Reading it makes me want to visit California again and hike through every zone of the Sierra Nevada, from the hot and dry oak and pine savanna to the cool alpine zone, and see all the trees. I'd especially like to get into the high alpine zone, which we didn't see except while driving over the mountain pass from Nevada.



To give you a taste, here are the drawings of Pinus sabiniana, the one with jagged cones almost as big as your head:



Have you seen this book, Robert?

[Robert]

Here is another typical high elevation trail, in this case, lined with Phyllodoce breweri. In the far background is a stand of Veratrum californica an abundant species also in moist areas.



The faded blossoms of Phyllodoce breweri with a few Mimulus primuloides in the background.



The upper ridges were calling me onward. Up in these high crags grow some alpine gems such as Saxifraga tolmiei and Draba paysonii.



After a short but very steep hike I arrived at Hemlock Lake, 8,389 feet (2,557 meters).



Here the ridgeline crest loomed 1,400 feet (427 meters) above me. I wanted very much to reach these heights. Unfortunately, I was quickly running out of time and thus made a quick push up the trail toward Smith Lake.

[Robert]

Finally, here I was in a pristine Hemlock forest with my time schedule stretched to its absolute limit. 8,515 feet (2,557 meters) and still some distance from Smith Lake and farther yet from the ridge crest.

This was a disappointment. I had given myself 1 hour to cover the 3 miles back to the trailhead and the truck. Needless to say I raced down the trail, sadly with a somewhat heavy heart.

This was a very productive day with 90 plus species observed and a clear goal to return with more time to reach the highest ridges. In addition, I will be pleased when my circumstances change and I can spend several days camping in this beautiful country.