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Author Topic: Cypripedium-2015  (Read 28943 times)

Paul Cumbleton

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #45 on: April 17, 2015, 10:29:00 AM »
My first one in flower is also C. formosanum. I grow mine (and all my Cyps) in an organic based medium which is 2 parts fine composted bark, 1 part Melcourt Potting Bark, 1 part Supercoarse Perlite and 2 parts leafmould - so 80% organic ingredients. I have tried growing Cyps in inorganic mediums like those mentioned by others here, but these have never worked for me. As you can see from the picture, growing in organic mediums can be very successful. Just proves the common advice that finding what works for you is what much growing is all about.

Paul
Paul Cumbleton, Somerton, Somerset, U.K. Zone 8b (U.S. system plant hardiness zone)

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angie

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #46 on: April 17, 2015, 08:42:30 PM »
Really nice and good to see what works for you.

Angie  :)
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Anthony Darby

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #47 on: April 18, 2015, 01:23:28 AM »
In wet areas it would be certain death, but if you can control the water it should be fine.
Anthony Darby, Auckland, New Zealand.
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monocotman

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #48 on: April 18, 2015, 08:32:26 AM »
Paul,
that is a super plant!
David
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Stephen Vella

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #49 on: April 25, 2015, 10:27:25 AM »
Here's my formosanum down under, last year. Had a discussion with a fellow orchid grower today and we investigated some potting mixes I have been experimenting with. This formosanum is growing in complete organics and loving it so are the hybrids, like Pauls potting mix but with out the leaf mould, i use coco fibre instead. I have some parviflorums in inorganics (perlite and seramis) and 10% bark fines 15mm and after 5 years in the same mix its becoming hydrophobic(hard to rewet). I found the top layer moist but halfway down the pot was bone dry and some dead black roots. I leave my collection out in the weather in winter, exposed to rain although we don't get that much rain in winter not like the northern hemisphere. I use to cover them but was troublesome, I found that I would water them once a month to keep them just moist.

I've also found that potting up or just changing into fresh mix after 4 years would be beneficial. Some are in equal parts diatomite and perlite and doing very well. Organics can go sour, worms move in, salinity, compaction, fungi mycelium can dry out organic mix too.

Not too sure about Perlite compacting or going sour, maybe that may be an advantage but in our warmer summers the mix would dry out too quick. I only water once a week with organics and diatomite/perlite mixes.

I'm using diatomite, perlite, quarts sand, decomposed bark 5mm and clinker ash potted in big clay bowl lined in plastic to keep roots cool and easier to water a big pot than a small one. Cyp roots are known to travel for meters in the wild in the top layers of humus and the bowls fill up with Cypripedium shoots like this running formosanum.

cheers
Stephen Vella, Blue Mountains, Australia,zone 8.

monocotman

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #50 on: April 25, 2015, 01:24:12 PM »
Stephen,

interesting to hear your thoughts.
Great to see the formosanum and hear your thoughts about composts.

I don't find the super coarse perlite becoming hydrophobic with time.
If anything it absorbs more water judging by the weight of older pots.
I have had some plants in the same pot for over 5 years with no problems.
The only issue is the odd earthworm that can introduce too many organic components and cause some rot.

here are the largest pots of hybrids just about to burst into flower,

Regards,

David
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Maren

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #51 on: April 25, 2015, 05:36:27 PM »
The easy way to keep wildlife out of your pots is to put in a layer or two of shade net, cut to fit the base inside of the pot, just over the drainage holes. Drainage is not impaired. It's cheap, easy and works perfectly for years :)
Maren in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom - Zone 8

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Stephen Vella

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #52 on: April 26, 2015, 11:56:03 AM »
Hello David...yes good to see your amazing hybrid collection still going strong!

Yes I did wonder how long you keep yours in pots  before repotting....

I did some up sizing today of parviflorum and kentuckiensis and inspected the roots.. The parviflorum had some dead surface roots but the majority were very healthy spiraling and going down. The kentuckiensis had a root system that just went down and all healthy. I think with my climate the surface tends to dry out too quick. We do get temps of 30c plus in summer and I dont allways water every day maybe one a week with a good soak by irrigation.

I made some observations with the new perlite and diatomite mix because its dry coming out of bags a 250mm pot can easily absorb 10 litres from a watering can. When I first poured 5 litres I thought it was enough but it only went half way down. The perlite did something similar. Perlite and diatomite can take and store alot of water.

I think I just didn't give then enough water and the water must have been running down the sides of the pots as well.

You must get alot of rain in summer? and do you ever get 30c?

cheers
Stephen
Stephen Vella, Blue Mountains, Australia,zone 8.

monocotman

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #53 on: April 26, 2015, 07:39:30 PM »
Steven,

in the breadbasket of the Uk in sunny East Anglia we get around 26 inches a year on average and it is pretty well spread out.
I cannot rely on summer rain to water the pots so if it gets hot -up towards 25 degrees, I water nearly every day.
At present in spring it is more like once to twice a week.
It is very interesting to hear just how much water super coarse perlite holds in a pot.
It must provide a huge amount of buffering to the plants and ensure that they never run short especially in our climate.
We see 30 degrees once or twice a summer on average but never for very long  - 2-3 days and then the weather breaks down with thunderstorms.
An average summer day will be low twenties.
The Uk has one of the most equable climates in the world thanks to the gulf stream and very low levels of abiotic stress.
Compared to the rest of the world we see very few extreme weather events.
This is the main reason they grow so well here.
Cyps can take 30 degrees as long as they are shaded and well watered.
The foliage stays pristine and green for a long time and allows the plant quickly to build up food stores for the following year,

regards,

David
'remember that life is a shipwreck, but we must always remember to sing in the life boats'

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Stephen Vella

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #54 on: April 28, 2015, 07:04:18 AM »
Dave that's interesting about your rainfall I thought you had a whole lot more than me. So I can see why you water twice a week. We tend to get more temperature extremes and rainfall can be irratic. Oh i know they can handle the 30s well. In the shade its allways cool i even sink them in a gravel bed and over pot to buffer temps. Surprisingly they do well.

Do you have Kentuckiensis and does it clump?I think I need to feed it more if thats the case my lot are all single buds
cheers
Stephen Vella, Blue Mountains, Australia,zone 8.

Corrado & Rina

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #55 on: April 28, 2015, 03:45:43 PM »
The easy way to keep wildlife out of your pots is to put in a layer or two of shade net, cut to fit the base inside of the pot, just over the drainage holes. Drainage is not impaired. It's cheap, easy and works perfectly for years :)

Equally,  the nets used to pack garlic, onions an fruits work a treat. You save them and cut them to size when you need (so you also recycle and pollute less, and they cost zero because you buy them in any case).

Here are examples of different nets cut to size for pots:

484736-0

484738-1
Corrado & Rina

monocotman

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #56 on: April 28, 2015, 06:30:20 PM »
Stephen,

I have grown kentuckiense twice and they both grow and multiplied well but then succumbed to rot.
The last one was last year when there were at least 10 growths.
Here is a photo of the protection I give the plants when frosts are forecast.
The fleece is only left on the plants overnight and comes off in the morning,

David
'remember that life is a shipwreck, but we must always remember to sing in the life boats'

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Stephen Vella

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #57 on: April 28, 2015, 09:14:19 PM »
David that's a shame with the kentuckiensis and one that can handle wet conditions in spring where they naturally occur it can flood and plants have been seen to be under water for a period but whose to say they survived that natural occurance..
Yours succumb to rot, during the growing season? When its warm and wet and especially with congested plants, pithium can attack perennials from the ground up, can destroy leaves, rhizomes and roots. Its too late when its seen in leaves. Im not exactly sure what fungus or bacterias would cause this with Cypripediums. Do you know what attack yours?

Hygiene is the best preventative, keeping pot plants off the ground especially where water can transfer soil born diseases. Pasteurize mixes. And separating plants. I don't like growing them in black pots exposed to the sun where they can absorb heat, the soil can heat up and roots can cook or dry out.
to keep the roots cool I sink my pots in gravel but off the ground or running water and the large ones are in large clay pots but on the ground and I do worry but then these are in organic mixes.Too many variables.
Stephen Vella, Blue Mountains, Australia,zone 8.

Anthony Darby

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #58 on: April 29, 2015, 04:46:25 AM »
Cyps grown in pots don't need fungal mycelium and it can actually be a liability. I always drenched mine with fungicide.
Anthony Darby, Auckland, New Zealand.
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Steve Garvie

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Re: Cypripedium-2015
« Reply #59 on: April 29, 2015, 09:00:03 PM »
Cypripedium formosanum


« Last Edit: May 11, 2015, 11:00:10 PM by Steve Garvie »
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Steve
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