Lilium 2016

[izunamyojin]

I also found a nice L. aurt pictum they're offering

http://www.ishidaseikaen.com/webshop/products/detail9672.html?PHPSESSID=8f7be1171abfc195ca5907c1f3de1b71

Here's another site with some good stuff

http://www.sapporo-park.or.jp/category/item/lily/

[Dick Cheung]

Eddie McRae had several l.aur.rub he had collected over the years.  He crossed them and almost all were the standard white w/ yellow stripe.  Some were tinted with a little red, but very few if any were what he called the "deep ox blood" red that he was looking for .  Not sure the genetics there.  There was no consistency with regards to ratio that you expect to see in a recessive trait.  It was more in line with a mutation.  it apparently occurs often enough that it creeps up here and there.  But crossing to Reb Bands doesn't produce Red Bands at any predicable ratio.  It's a total crap shoot.  But He did say that he got more and closer by crossing red band with each other that with a standard or a pink band (ssp. pictum). 

 If I can locate good red bands like "Apollo" or that Japanese Mt. Hokone clone (I think that's where they say it's from) then maybe we can get some good deep ox blood red bands.

Any suggestions?

I have different wild variety of L. auratum include rubrovittatus, pictum, virginale and white flower with spotted(no name?).
Some are seedling only and some are adult bulbs but they rarely bloom because there has not enough sunshine in my home. 
Seems that some pink variety were found in japan, but i am not sure these are real variety or natural hybrids.
Besides that, i know that a clone of rubrovittatus could bloom as pictum in different environment.

[izunamyojin]

That is weird. What about the environment would effect flower coloration? And that drastically as well. 

[partisangardener]

Could be the level of acidity or some elements or their availability in the soil.
F.e. I use a weak Boron-solution sprayed on the leafs to improve vitality. With some plants it changes the colour of the flower usually more intense coloration.

[izunamyojin]

Good point.

Do you know where to get a start of Apollo?

[barnclos]

I’m a great believer in sowing sooner rather than later. These L. philadelphicum were in freezer from 7-24.11.17, then into a tub of moist vermiculite where first signs of germination were on 08.12.17, then potted up on 19.12.17. I will keep them ticking over indoors under lights until it’s warm enough to put them outside, and hope to get an extra long first growing season.
Thanks Gabriela for great seed.

[Gabriela]

Great Keith good to see the freezing worked for you.
I never recommended, because sowing in the fall and keeping the pots outdoors gives very good results in our climate. But for someone in a warmer region obviously it is a good option, I'll mention this in the shop - thanks!

[Rick R.]

I also grew L. philadelphicum v. andinum from the NARGS seed ex.  Seed would have been collected in 2015, as I received the seed in early 2016.  Froze the seed for 3 weeks, then (March 2) put in moist vermiculite in sealed baggie under lights for 7 days, on the eighth day actual germination began.  Then planted, and they began emerging on March 18.

[Gabriela]

I also grew L. philadelphicum v. andinum from the NARGS seed ex.  Seed would have been collected in 2015, as I received the seed in early 2016.  Froze the seed for 3 weeks, then (March 2) put in moist vermiculite in sealed baggie under lights for 7 days, on the eighth day actual germination began.  Then planted, and they began emerging on March 18.

Ok Rick, thanks. So freezing makes sense for seeds received/bought in early/late spring.

I would like a mention about the var. andinum - which is unsupported on the account that its most 'strong' character = the lenght of the capsule was proven to vary greatly depending on the environmental conditions.
And indeed, I've witness all sort of L. philadelphicum: short forms with shorter capsules, tall forms with long capsules and everything in between. In fact, in the region where I collect seeds, all individuals regardless of the height have long(er) capsules (which would qualify them as var. andinum).

Lilium philadelphicum is extremely variable, that's all. I would like one day to find the yellow form mentioned in Flora of Michigan

[Véronique Macrelle]

I’m a great believer in sowing sooner rather than later. These L. philadelphicum were in freezer from 7-24.11.17, then into a tub of moist vermiculite where first signs of germination were on 08.12.17, then potted up on 19.12.17. 
  (Attachment Link)

in the freezer at what temperature?

[Rick R.]

My freezer temp is 4F (-15C).  But only dry seed at that temp.

[barnclos]

in the freezer at what temperature?

Its the freezer compartment of the refrigerator, so it’s only around -5 °C.
I should also make clear that the seeds are frozen while still dry.

The method came from Pacific Bulb Society (http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LilyGerminationBySpecies).

[Rick R.]

I do wonder about the self defrosting freezers.  If you just put a thin envelope with seed in such a freezer, would the seed got through freeze/thaw cycles?  I do keep seed in a self defrosting freezer, but I store the seed inside an insulated box.

[Véronique Macrelle]

you put the dried seeds at -5 ° C for 3 months for the delayed hypogeal germination species? as for example for Lilium martagon? I have a lot of martagon seeds from my garden to do experiments.


 I ordered seeds of Lilium henryi because my giant plant (2.50 m tall and 10 years old) was completely devoured by field mice last year. 
you advise me what for germination: to wait to sow in April in a greenhouse?
 last year I tried this way Lilium mackliniae, but without success.

[partisangardener]

Delayed hypogeal germinators as Martagon start at once if kept moist in a bag with Sphagnum or another moss about 20 centigrade for 3-8 weeks. In this time they form the hibernating bulb and come out with the first true leaf after a cold period-
I usually pot them and keep them outside over winter. But if I am too late and frost is already heavy I keep them in the bag in the compartment of my fridge for vegetables until it gets warmer.

If sown outside while it is already late in autumn they build their bulb in the summer next year with the first leaf the following year.
The warm period they are usually in a drawer of my desk. At the moment some different seeds of the martagon section from the Ussuri region in Russia and some martagons from here. The bulbs are already out but will grow some time to their full potential