2017 - Robert's botanical adventures in Northern California

[Robert]

RED PEAK
&
LAKE No 3

Part I

Thursday, 20 July 2017

Sacramento Weather

Weather: Clear
Temperature, High: 92 F, 33.5 C
                        Low: 62 F, 16.5 C

It is a long hike into Lake No. 3 and Red Peak. I was up at 4:00 a.m. Thursday, hoping to arrive at the trailhead at first light. The trail from the old Van Vleck Ranch to Lake No. 3 is lightly used and is sometimes poorly maintained. It had been twelve years since I hiked all the way into Lake No. 3 and I was very uncertain about the condition of the trail. Lingering snow, washed out portions of the trail, and many downed trees were all possibilities.

I arrived at the Van Vleck trailhead, 6,505 feet (1,983 meters), at 6:15 a.m. It was a chilly 41 F (5 C) with a cold south wind blowing. My goal was to arrive at Lake No. 3 at the base of Red Peak early in the day with plenty of time to explore the metamorphic roof pendant on the higher portions of Red Peak. I last explored this part of the mountain in the autumn of 2003. The flora is quite interesting and I hoped to have time to conduct to thorough search of this area.



The lower meadows of the old Van Vleck ranch were full of an incredible variety of wildflowers in full bloom. The riot of color was quite distracting, however I need to move quickly if I was going to have any time to explore Red Peak.

There were a few Lupines that caught my attention. This tidy mound keyed out as Lupinus albicaulis, a species similar to Lupinus andersonii and L. fulcratus. It was a beautiful plant, however I still have some lingering questions as to its identity.



Juncus chlorocephelus is very showing when in bloom. I grow this species in our Sacramento garden, however the results have not been as promising as this to date.



There are many seeps and streams along the lower sections of the trail. Where moisture is abundant Lilium parvum was blooming in thick stands with Castilleja miniata ssp.miniata, Senecio triangularis, and many other moisture loving species.



The Red Peak Trail cuts between the north bank of Bassi Fork and the old pastureland of the Van Vleck Ranch. The grove of trees in the center of this photograph is one my favorite camping sites along the lower portion of the trail.



Much of the Van Vleck pastureland was originally forested. Many of the old stumps still remain. I am piecing together historical land use data from this region dating back to the 1860’s. It is quite interesting and may shed light on the current distribution and make up of the flora in this area.

[Robert]

The former pastureland is a combination of seasonally mesic or xeric meadowland. Each meadow environment has it own unique plant community.



Penstemon rydbergii var. oreocharis grows abundantly in the mesic meadows. Despite its preference for moist conditions this species endured and survived extremely dry conditions during the drought years. During the drought years very few plants produced flowers. One this outing they were blooming in large sheets of color throughout the moist meadows.



There was still plenty of frost where the meadows were shaded. This Potentilla was still covered in ice. It is not unusual for there to be frost in the high elevations during the summer months.



Mertensia ciliata var. stomatechoides is generally found growing where moisture is abundant. This site seems dry. However there must be a reliable source of moisture a short distance below the surface.



Mertensia ciliata var. stomatechoides is a very beautiful species when in bloom.

[Robert]

After a short distance the trail crosses the Bassi Fork. The creek had receded from the peak runoff levels and was easy to cross. Earlier in the season the water level can be quite low in the morning and then rise to a raging torrent in the afternoon during the peak snow runoff. The unwary can easily get trapped on the “wrong” side of a creek, resulting in a very wet crossing in the afternoon or a long detour hoping to find a log crossing.



Well above the lower pastureland there are some hidden meadows perched on the side of the ridge. I first found these meadows back in the early 1970’s when the Red Peak Trail was almost abandon. The early stock herders (1860-1900) drove their herds everywhere, so I doubt that the meadows are pristine. The meadows do contain a fascinating variety of plant species.



The meadows are full of Camassia leichtlinii ssp. suksdorfii and are a gorgeous sight when the Camassia is in full bloom. There were still many plants in bloom, however I had missed the peak in the blooming cycle.



Trifolium longipes ssp. atrorubens is one of many species that finds a home in the meadows. Unfortunately, I was already running behind schedule and did not take time to look around the upper meadows.



As I progressed onward, I started to encounter downed trees that were blocking the trail. Many were easy to step over, however in other locations the downed trees created considerable obstacles.

[Robert]

Along a seasonal creek, a shady glade was full of Primula (Dodecatheon) jeffreyi in peak bloom. There were thousands blooming throughout this site.



Over the years I have always found a few Primula (Dodecatheon) jeffreyi growing at this site, but never in such quantities. It was truly a magical moment to encounter them in their full glory this day.



Some of the downed trees were Red Fir, Abies magnifica var. magnifica and their bark in the perfect substrate for Wolf Lichen, Letharia vulpina.



Erigeron glacialis var. glacialis is a commonly “daisy” in this region. This time of year, they can be found blooming with lavender to almost white flowers.



Eventually the trail started to climb steeply out of the Red Fir (Abies magnifica var. magnifica) forest into a much drier and open terrain. The air was full of smoke from a forest fire far to the south in Mariposa County.

[Robert]

This habitat is ideal for Calochortus leichtlinii. They were blooming in quantity scattered about in the openings of the high elevation chaparral.



The dry, sunny habitat was also ideal habitat for Eriogonum nudum.



As I cleared the top of the ridge there was a nice view of McConnell Peak, 9,099 feet (2,773 meters).



As I moved closer to Red Peak, pieces and fragments of metamorphic and sedimentary rock were seen scattered about the landscape. They were clearly part of the glacial debris shorn off the upper ridges and left behind as the glaciers retreated.



Calochortus minimus was seen in bloom at all elevations throughout this outing. The plants were quite uniform in flower color, but variable in plant size.

[hamparstum]

Robert, needless to say that my patience waiting you to go higher up has its wonderful rewards! Your last report is fascinating!. I would love to understand more about the past/present land use. At present are these federal lands that have reverted to federal management after the land leases have expired/ or policy changes? Are they national forest lands now? ( I'm supposing this because you mentioned logging operations lower down). Are there still privately owned pieces of land within the Crystal Range?. Do they have some kind of restrictions insofar resource use?. Out of historical curiosity it would be interesting to know what happened to the VanVlecks when they left the land. Were the original settlers Flemish/Dutch?
Your questions about present day flora actually address very long term processes. The reversion of pasture back to forest may be delayed to more than a century, because of very slow regenerating mechanisms. However in your pictures some young samplings growing amongst the stumps are visible.
Back to gardening, do you grow any of the Liliums and Castilleja minniata. The Penstemon rydbergii and Mertensia are both very garden worthy plants. So the various lupines specially L.albicaullis.
Thank you so much for your regular reports. Did you ever consider leading out small botanical outings? Your teaching abilities could be of great benefit towards those who need their eyes to be opened towards the wealth of California wildflowers. At least this far away I'm already thinking about a person who would greatly benefit from a quiet company...

[Robert]

RED PEAK
&
LAKE No 3

Part II

King’s Sandwort, Eremogone kingii var. glabrascens, enjoys growing in the dry, open, rocky granite barrens.



At the top of the first steep grade at about 7,300 feet (2,225 meters), the trail again crosses upper Bassi Fork. After the last Ice Age, fish were absent from most lakes and streams above 6,000 feet (1,829 meters) in the Sierra Nevada. In the early 1970’s I remember seeing planted trout in this section of Bassi Fork, however after repeated cycles of drought this section of Bassi Fork is now, once again, fish free. In many cases the introduction of trout has completely altered the original aquatic habitat of the high elevation lakes and streams in the Sierra Nevada. Many amphibians and invertebrates have been displaced or eliminated. It will be interesting to see if any return to the now trout free habitat in the upper Bassi Fork.



At this elevation, Phyllodoce breweri is a commonly seen species in mesic meadows. Phyllodoce lined trails are commonplace and a delight to walk when they are in bloom.



The Phyllodoce are so beautiful when in bloom, however they also seem to attract many beautiful butterflies. This Acmon Blue (Plebejuis acmon) or Lupine Blue (Plebejus lupinus) was sipping nectar from the flowers.

Note: The orange hind wing submarginal band cannot be seen on this specimen.



Where the snow had recently melted and the soil was sandy and moist, Lewisia triphylla was in bloom. It is quite common to see this species growing next to seasonally running water or in seasonal seeps. Later in the year, the ground will become powder dry and the Lewisia will be safely dormant as a small underground “bulb”.

[Robert]

I was very surprised to find Lewisia nevadensis growing in this sunny dry habitat. Generally this species is found in mesic meadows or near seasonally running water, often with Lewisia triphylla. Lewisia pygmaea also can also be found growing in sunny dry habitats in this region, but generally at higher elevations. I needed to take a careful look to make sure the plants were indeed Lewisia nevadensis.



A short distance from the Bassi Fork, there is a small marsh. On my return trip down the mountain, I encountered a Black Bear, Ursus americanus, in this marsh. It ran off before I could photograph it. The Red Peak trail is a good place to see bears. I see them on most outing in this area.



In a moist, semi-shaded habitat near the marsh I found Western Service-berry, Amelanchier alnifolia var. pumila, in full bloom. The attractive white flowers are followed in the autumn by small black fruit that are quite tasty.



In this same location, I encountered the first snow.



Shortly, the trail once again follows a steep grade upward toward Lake No. 3 and Lake No. 5. There were many scattered pieces of various metamorphic rocks throughout this area.

[Robert]

I found many large colonies of Calochortus leichtlinii blooming on the sunny, dry granite slopes.



The Polygonaceae species Aconogonon davisae started to appear as I continued to gain altitude.



Above 8,000 feet (2,438 meters), the early blooming species Phlox diffusa grew among the granite boulders.



The color of the flowers ranged from white to deep pink.



Above 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) there were still large, deep snowfields on the north facing slopes and in densely forested areas. At this juncture, I had the choice of following the trail and traversing a steep snowfield on a north-facing slope or to hike straight up this granite slope to Lake No. 3. I quickly and easily hiked up the granite to the lake.

[Robert]

Arturo,

These are excellent questions.

I am still researching the history and current status of the properties in the old Van Vleck Ranch area. There has been a considerable amount written concerning the Wrights Lake / Lyons Creek area at the southern end of the Crystal Range and the Loon Lake / Gerle Creek area at the northern end of the Crystal Range. I am going to have to see what is available in the archives of the two of the local newspapers as well as check with the U.S. Forest Service to find more historical information about the Van Vleck Ranch area.

I do not know if the Van Vleck’s still have any land holdings in the vicinity of the Crystal Range or Desolation Valley Wilderness Area. I do know that there are still some small private land holdings in the vicinity of the Desolation Valley Wilderness Area and the western slope of the Crystal Range. To my knowledge Desolation Valley Wilderness is 100% public land.

It is also clear that there have been huge changes in the land use policies since the 1970’s in this region. In the early 1970’s much of the area between Loon Lake, the old Van Vleck airstrip and the Upper Bassi Ranch to the south was logged / clear cut. It was a real mess! Sometime around 1972 my brother and I hiked the old trail from Loon Lake to the Van Vleck airstrip. This was right after the logging was completed. In places the trail was completely obliterated by the logging. We did manage to finally find the airstrip.

As of today the consequences of the logging are still evident. Much of the Red Fir forest was heavily logged along the lower end of the route I traveled on Thursday. Thick and unhealthy stands of Lodgepole Pine have replaced the Jeffrey Pine and Red Fir that were removed. It is not a complete disaster! It is fascinating watching and documenting the actual process of regeneration that is taking place. There are a number of surprises.

As for the Van Vlecks? They still have large land holdings in Amador County and still run cattle. They may still have land holding elsewhere in the state, but these are things I do not know and may not be relevant to the Crystal Range.

The rate of forest regeneration on the former pastureland is quite amazing but not surprising. In my research, I discovered that sheep, goats, and even hogs were pastured in many places between Georgetown and Loon Lake from the 1860’s to the early 1900’s. Places like Lawyer Cow Camp and Francis Cow Camp were within hiking distance of my father’s cabin at Gerle Creek. Hogs were pastured at both sites yet by 1965-1975 I could see no evidence that hogs had ever been pastured at the two sites.

I grow Lilium parvum in our Sacramento garden. It can be a bit tricky to grow but is well worth the effort. Lilium parvum has orange flowers, however there are two varieties of Lilium parvum; variety crocatum with orange-yellow flowers and variety hollidayi with pink flowers. L. parvum var. hollidayi is an El Dorado County endemic. It is also called “Ditch Lily” as it can be found growing along the Georgetown divide irrigation ditch. When the irrigation district lined the old clay walled ditch with concrete a number of years ago the Ditch Lilies suffered greatly. Later the irrigation district removed a portion of the concrete where the lilies had once thrived, hoping to restore their habitat. This was a disaster too, as the removal process harmed most of the remaining lilies. I have beautiful photographs of the Ditch Lilies from 30 years ago, now there are only a few struggling specimens along the ditch, however the last time I checked, about two years ago, the lilies seemed like they were starting to recover. I spent many years studying the Ditch Lilies as well as other forms and natural hybrids of Lilium parvum in El Dorado County. It was extremely interesting, however much habitat has been destroyed and much is now gone. This is very sad.

I do not grow Castilleja miniata, yet. I am having very good success with other Castilleja species. My guess is that C. miniata will be easy to cultivate.

Penstemon rydbergii var. oreocharis thrives in our Sacramento garden.

Our native Lupinus species are challenging to cultivate. One issue is that they are a host plant for the larva of many Lepidoptera Order insects. I actually wish to encourage butterflies in our garden, so I guess that I just need to grow more Lupinus species. This is not a bad thing; however there can be other challenges to their cultivation.

I have acted as a guide for friends in the past. There is considerable liability when guiding the public. I would only guide the public through the services of a well established and reputable tour company. My services have never been requested, so I do not act as a commercial guide.



Downed trees on the Red Peak Trail.



Deep snow and swampy meadows on the Red Peak Trail.

Good reasons to have liability insurance if acting as a guide.

[hamparstum]

Robert! Fascinating...
Of grazing domestic animals, hogs are the most disruptive because they upturn soil with their snouts searching for fleshy roots/grubs/bulbs. Are there any wild boars  there? (introduced obviously) or feral hogs ? These on the other hand provide food for mountain lion (cougar, here far south puma same species!). However if no introductions have occurred, then best to leave it untainted...cougars can still find food in fawns...
I suppose that my idea of a guided outing would better fit under an educational scheme. However it would still have to have liability issues addressed... What really concerns me, is the very wide need of acquiring field expertise in so many city dwellers ( who make up the majority of a voting constituency). My target group in mind are all of those who would love to learn something about nature but have not had the opportunity to acquire field search pattern habits. A highly specialized scientist is not the kind of guide needed. Instead, a natural history naturalist, that really understands the place and is very fluent in translating check lists into direct observation is a much better alternative. I see you doing that easily and with no added trouble. The community benefits are obvious... Perhaps orgs like TNC or Sierra Club could provide this service. It is about learning the basics and it is a vast audience.
As I understand when you say 100% public land, it means that it legally belongs to either federal property ( belonging to the USA nation) managed by some federal agency, or to the State of California also managed by some state agency. Usually in spite of efforts otherwise, each agency has different criteria for land management,  to which one has to add private use under some form of permit/lease still awaiting expiration. All of this generates a land use mosaic pattern that conditions present day floral distribution. Regenerative processes after human massive disruption do not follow the classical ecological succession pattern. Usually some levels of disruption have been severe enough so as to loose species in the course of time. The ditch lily seems an example.
Who would be in charge of fixing that? and who would be the pressure group that should insist and monitor that a restoration program for ditch lilies is designed, maintained and monitored. Otherwise the passive approach of that mother nature takes care is just blindfolded. Nature conservation only starts with the correct apropiation of land. There is a long way afterwards...
I loved those Phyllodoce pics. It reminds me of Pernettyas here, also Ericaceae.
In your previous posts I saw some half dead trees (firs), are they because of natural reasons? or old fire burnt that have not regenerated? Many of your liability trees are still quite young, what would send them earthwards? Snow overload? Wind tunnels? Compact stands are much more stable to tackle the elements than patchy ones. Restoring towards a fully mature, diverse, stable forest is a very long term process...beyond a century. Under all of these issues your lovely wildflowers have to struggle to put on their show...I still marvel that it is possible!

[Ian Y]

Thanks Robert, I always enjoy reading about your adventures and seeing the great pictures of  landscape and detail.

[Robert]

RED PEAK
&
LAKE No 3

Part III

I arrived at Lake No. 3 much later in the day than I had planned. Checking on plants certainly slowed my progress, however trail conditions were not ideal either.

Lake No. 3 is at 8,203 feet (2,500 meters). There was still a considerable amount of snow around the lake. If anyone were planning on camping around the lake they would have a difficult time finding a flat and dry camping site free of snow or running water. I was there to study the flora and there was plenty to see.



In dry clearings around the lake, Allium obtusum var. obtusum was in bloom. Variety conspicuum, with pink flowers, also grows in El Dorado County, however it seems to be confined to the volcanic soils in the southern portion of the county.



Where the snow had melted, the heathland around the lake was a riot of color. Kalmia polifolia (pictured), other Ericaceae, as well as other species were all flowering.



Kalmia polifolia is very showy when in bloom.



Ranunculus alismifolius blooms shortly after snowmelt. This species was blooming in many locations around the lake where the snow had melted.

[Robert]

In a moist meadow where the snow had melted, Viola macloskeyi grew in large colonies.



The plants were in peak bloom and quite spectacular. Viola macloskeyi was one of three species seen on this outing. Viola bakeri was observed from the Van Vleck trailhead all the way to Lake No. 3. Viola adunca was blooming in some of the low elevation meadows near the old Van Vleck Ranch. I may have spotted Viola glabella, however the plants were not blooming and I did not stop to make a determination.



Near Viola macloskeyi, there were colonies of the Sparse-Flowered Bog-Orchid, Plantanthera sparsiflora, in full bloom. Another beauty in bloom at this site was Primula (Dodecantheon) tetrandra (not pictured).



My original plan was to hike onto the northern ridge of Red Peak (pictured), work my way to the summit and then back down to the southern end of Lake No. 3.



There was not enough time to execute this plan, so I contented myself by exploring the circumference of the lake and some of the lower ridges above the eastern portion of the lake.

[Robert]

Caltha leptosepala can sometimes be found blooming with its pedicels and open flowers poking above the snow or blooming half submerged in running water.



On the rocky granite ledges above the lake Juniperus communis grew in some of the larger cervices.



The granite ledges were a great place to observe crustose lichens. Brown Tile Lichen, Lecidea atrobrunnea, is a very common high elevation lichen species in the Sierra Nevada. This species often turns whitish granite faces gray.



Growing with the Brown Tile Lichen were smaller colonies of the Common Goldspeck Lichen, Candelariella vitallina.



As I moved off the granite down to the meadows at the southern end of the lake, there were large colonies of Castilleja miniata ssp. miniata in bloom. This species is commonly seen in moist areas at high elevations in the Sierra Nevada. This species also has an extended blooming cycle and can be seen in bloom for a month or more.