viola 2020

[Gabriela]

Lovely Violas thanks folks.
The following isn't recent as I took the image late last year while on a solo trip to Central Patagonia and wondered if anyone is growing it successfully.

Viola escondidaensis found on sandy steppe.

Quite a sight! and those thick stems! I imagine it has roots 2 km long

[Gabriela]

(Attachment Link)

In their preferred habitat, Viola purpurea ssp. integrifolia is now in full bloom. This species can be quite prolific. When many are blooming at the same time the sight is very impressive.

Another yellow beauty Robert; and a nice foliage too. It is amazing how many yellow flowering species are on the Western side.

Here's one from a week ago, time goes too fast now.
Viola rostrata growing at the base of a Maple tree in the woods.

[t00lie]

Quite a sight! and those thick stems! I imagine it has roots 2 km long

 
I had a little bit of a scratch around and yes the roots were impressive .

[Robert]

Viola bakeri blooming in the Lyons Creek Basin at the elevation of 6,700 feet (2,042 meters).

[Gerdk]

Robert,
Thank you for this photograph. As this species is closely related to Viola nuttallii I want to ask whether Viola bakeri
also has a pronounced summer rest.

Gerd

[Robert]

Gerd,

Viola bakeri is generally found growing in vernally moist meadows (generally above 5,500 feet, 1,676 meters in our area) or other locations that are moist, but not flooded or boggy in the spring. Later in the summer/autumn their habitat can appear dry based on the surface appearance, however the soil is generally still moist 10 to 15 cm below the surface. Unless there is severe drought, the plants remain green into the early autumn. Senescence generally commences with freezing weather in the autumn.

I have found this species reasonably easy to cultivate in small containers if protected from slugs, snails, and insect pests.

I guess the answer is no, they generally do not have a pronounced summer rest. 

[Gerdk]

Robert,
Thank you for this very detailed reply!

Gerd

[Gabriela]

Gerd,

Viola bakeri is generally found growing in vernally moist meadows (generally above 5,500 feet, 1,676 meters in our area) or other locations that are moist, but not flooded or boggy in the spring. Later in the summer/autumn their habitat can appear dry based on the surface appearance, however the soil is generally still moist 10 to 15 cm below the surface. Unless there is severe drought, the plants remain green into the early autumn. Senescence generally commences with freezing weather in the autumn.

I have found this species reasonably easy to cultivate in small containers if protected from slugs, snails, and insect pests.

I guess the answer is no, they generally do not have a pronounced summer rest. 

Thanks as well Robert. I  have one more question about V. bakeri (and V. douglasii) please: is it normal that they start growing the true leaves very slow (comparing with other species)? What I mean is that the seedlings seem to remain at the cotyledon leaves for a long time. Thanks in advance

[Robert]

Gabriela,

In my experience, Viola bakeri seedlings generally make rapid growth. I have never had them bloom the first spring from seed, however it seems possible, as forms of Viola purpurea will often bloom during their first spring (i.e. in just a few months after germinating). For me, Viola douglasii seedlings have been fairly slow growing. Sometimes it takes several seasons before I see flowers. I am gardening in the very warm and dry interior of California. Climatic conditions will certainly impact their growing behavior.




This is a very fine form of Viola tomentosa, as seen today in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California. The rosette to the right is Calyptridium monospermum. Viola tomentosa grows under extreme xeric conditions. At this site, the average daily solar radiation peaks at about 1075 Wm² when there is little cloud cover (generally most days this time of year). During the summertime, daily high temperatures range from 85 to 92 F (29 to 33 C), at times more. The skin temperature (the surface of the ground) can be much higher. Generally there is little or no rainfall during the summertime, but this can vary depending on the strength and trajectory of the southwest monsoon.

This area has many habitat niches and many native Viola species. I will be sharing more photographs.

[Gerdk]

@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.

@Robert: A really spectacular photo of a special beauty!

Gerd

[Gabriela]

Thanks Robert. Well, I discovered in the garden a young Viola bakeri, non-flowering, which I'm sure I've grown from SRGS seedex few years ago, and I'm also sure it was wild collected (I mostly ask wild collected seeds). Maybe you donated seeds?

V. tomentosa looks very happy in its environment of choice.

[Gabriela]

@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.

@Robert: A really spectacular photo of a special beauty!

Gerd

Thanks Gerd! Very interesting to hear; I didn't know some Viola species would have this growth pattern grown from seeds. Always something
new to learn! That's why I like to try and germinate species that I may never be able to grow here.

[Gabriela]

@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.
Gerd

While still fresh in my mind (and pictures folder) a picture with Viola bakeri (front) which is growing true leaves now and V. douglasii, which seems that as Gerd said, will develop true leaves only next year.
This will clarify the 'situation' for others trying these beauties from seeds.

[Gerdk]

Gabriela,
Your seedlings look especially strong growing and healthy. I would be glad if you tell me (us) the recipe
of your sowing mix (I spotted a certain amount of vermiculite).
Do you add some fertilizer after germination?

Gerd

[Gabriela]

Gabriela,
Your seedlings look especially strong growing and healthy. I would be glad if you tell me (us) the recipe
of your sowing mix (I spotted a certain amount of vermiculite).
Do you add some fertilizer after germination?
Gerd

Thank you Gerd, only lately they started to look better. We had a crazy spring and I had to keep the cold frames closed more than usual.
Because I sow all sorts of species, not just Viola, it would be impossible to use special recipes for each group.
I use a sowing mix called Pro-mix to which I add extra vermiculite or perlite (it depends what I have at hand). And I don't have any ratio for adding them, I pour some over the Pro-mix and mixed them well until the texture pleases my eyes

I add vermiculite on top for most sowings but not to all, just because I have no near source of grit or fine gravel, which are much better.
So, everything germinates in the same mix. I think for germination it doesn't matter much what one uses, it is more important to have a proper potting mix later when pricking out the seedlings.

Very early in the spring I use a diluted fertilizer if I remember and have the time; later on there are too many other garden things requiring attention.