Plants, Ecosystems, Climate - Northern California 2023

[Robert]

Eriophyllum lanatum var. integrifolium is a common resident of this natural rock garden setting. Its common name, Oregon Sunshine, suggests the myriad of yellow daisy-like flowers this species produces during the early summer. Good forms of this species also make excellent foliage plants. Dense growing plants with their silvery-gray foliage are very attractive.



In this natural rock garden setting Eriophyllum lanatum var. integrifolia is found growing in association with many other small growing species. Here it is seen growing with Calyptridium monospermum. When both species are blooming in the early summer, this plant combination is quite striking.



Native bunch grasses are also an important part of the California landscape, even in high alpine Life Zone settings. In this photograph Narrow Oatgrass, Trisetum spicatum, can be seen growing with Eriophyllum lanatum.



Squirrel Tail Grass, Elymus elymoides var. elymoides, is another small-growing bunch grass that is very common in open, alpine settings in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California.



In addition to our native bunch grasses, there are also a number of grass-like species that are commonly associated with sunny, open, alpine and sub alpine habitats in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Thread Leaf Sedge, Carex filifolia var. erostrata, is dwarf grass-like sedge. It is frequently seen in alpine and subalpine settings that are seasonally wet in the spring and early summer, yet become extremely dry in the summer.

[Robert]

Lupinus lepidus var. sellulus (pictured) is a fairly common species in dry/mesic meadow habitats in the lower portion of the basin, spanning into the higher elevation subalpine fell fields. At the highest elevations, in the true alpine life zones, variety sellulus gives way to Lupinus lepidus var. lobbii.



Trisetum projectum is generally associated with lower elevation mesic meadow ecosystems within the Lyons Creek Basin. At higher elevations Trisetum projectum gives way to the smaller growing Narrow Oatgrass, Trisetum spicatum (pictured).



Ragged Daisy, Eurybia integrifolia, is very common in dry/mesic ecosystems in the Upper Transition and Canadian Life Zones in this region.



Eurybia integrifolia is a late blooming species, frequently seen flowering in late summer into the autumn depending on the elevation and moisture content of the soil. The open flowers of this species never look quite right, as the petals on the ray flowers are often twisted and irregular in shape, thus the common name Ragged Daisy. Despite its “ragged” appearance when in bloom, I find the species quite charming and desirable. It is also quite adaptable to conditions in our hot, dry Sacramento garden.



Pinemat Manzanita, Arctostaphylos nevadensis, is a low spreading, mat forming species found throughout the Upper Transition and Canadian Life Zones in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Here it is pictured growing with the silver foliaged Frosted Buckwheat, Eriogonum incanum, a striking light-dark color combination. Unlike many other Arctostaphylos species, this attractive species has proven to be challenging to grow in hot, dry, low elevations gardens such as those in the Sacramento Valley.

[Robert]

Unlike many Juncus species, the cespitose Juncus parryi prefers growing in relatively xeric, rocky, and sunny sites from the Upper Transition Zone into the lower Hudsonian Life Zones of California. It is a handsome compact species worthy of cultivation in naturalistic garden settings.



Penstemon newberryi var. newberryi is a subalpine species enjoyed for its intense display of magenta flowers in the spring. This species exhibits considerable genetic variation in its growth habit and longevity. Dense growing forms that bloom profusely are spectacular when in bloom and are very attractive plants out of bloom.



I saw a number of Phlox diffusa throwing off-season flowers in this fell field. The above average precipitation in August and September, as well as the dramatic oscillations in the temperature likely triggered a number of plants to produce another set of flowers.



Eventually I left the open, rocky slopes and entered the higher elevation subalpine forest dominated by Lodgepole Pine, Pinus contorta ssp. murrayana and Red Fir, Abies magnifica var. magnifica. Here Mountain Hemlock, Tsuga mertensiana and Western White Pine, Pinus monticola, can be found growing among the other coniferous trees. The dry rocky slopes created a natural firebreak and here the forest remand unharmed by the flames.



Here the terrain levels considerably.  Where moisture is abundant in moor or bog-like habitats Rhododendron columbianum can be found growing abundantly.

[Robert]

As I gained elevation, Mountain Heather, Phyllodoce breweri, became a dominant species in sunny, level, mesic habitats where there were large accumulations of organic matter in the soil. This species is often seen growing in large, low growing colonies over the soil. In the spring their deep cerise-pink flowers contrast dramatically against their deep green foliage.



The deciduous Dwarf Bilberry, Vaccinium cespitosum, is frequently associated with Phyllodoce breweri. During the autumn months the foliage of Dwarf Bilberry consistently turns brilliant scarlet-red. The contrasting deep green foliage of Phyllodoce set against the brilliant scarlet-red foliage of Dwarf Bilberry creates a spectacular sight of autumn color that is unmatched in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Dwarf Bilberry also produces a high quality tasty fruit that is enjoyed by wildlife as well as the few humans that climb into the mountains during the autumn.



Less common along the high elevation slopes of the Crystal Range is Alpine Wintergreen, Gaultheria humifusa. This species also prefers moist mesic meadow habitats where the soil is abundant in organic material. This small, prostrate, evergreen species has small white flowers followed by bright red fruits in the autumn.



In close vicinity to Lake Sylvia I paused to visit “Fishing Rock”. It was here in 1960 as a young boy I caught my first trout. This site is a dramatic touchstone of the impacts of climate change on this region. During the 1960’s trout were abundant in this stream. It had a reliable flow of cold water every year, including drought years. During the severe drought of 1975-77 this steam nearly dried up, however it did maintain a minimal flow. Steadily rising temperatures and continued periods of severe drought during the late 1980’s began to severely compromise this aquatic habitat. From the year 2000 to date we have entered a period of persistent drought and an accelerated rise in temperatures. Today this stream becomes completely dry most seasons and the trout are long gone. The cues that climate change is having a marked impact on this region are quite apparent.



As I crossed the last stream before Lake Sylvia came into view, the fading flowers of Helenium bigelovii were spotted in the moist, mesic habitat next to the stream. This perennial species is quite at home in mesic, moist meadows as well as semi-shaded streamside habitats.

[Robert]

At this same site Alpine Lily, Lilium parvum, had produced a set of late season flowers.



Senecio triangularis shared this site and was displaying a new set of yellow daisy flowers.



Shortly Lake Sylvia came into view. Lake Sylvia is located at the base of Pyramid Peak, the southern most summit of the Crystal Range, at an elevation of 8,050 feet (2,454 meters).



Surrounding the lake are many small mesic and hydric meadow and meadow-like habitats where many interesting plant species can be found. Mountain Laurel, Kalmia polifolia, is found abundantly around and in the vicinity of Lake Sylvia. This species has a strong preference for hydric, to semi-hydric habitats and is seen growing in semi-flooded areas around the lake and nearby marshy sites. This small, low growing evergreen species produces clusters of up-facing pink flowers in the spring.



These bog-like habitats are home to a unique array of plant species. Tundra Aster, Oreostemma alpigenum var. andersonii, is found abundantly in hydric to near hydric alpine and sub-alpine meadows. I have often seen this species in full bloom, the plants rising from shallow standing water.

[Robert]

The semi-shaded north facing slopes in proximity of the lake are carpeted with Phyllodoce and Cassiope.



At higher altitudes Western Moss Heather, Cassiope mertensiana, starts to replace Phyllodoce as the dominant “Heather” species. In the vicinity of Lake Sylvia the two species are frequently seen growing together in the same plant community. On the higher slopes of Pyramid Peak and Mount Price, Cassiope mertensiana is generally the only “Heather” species seen.



After spending a considerable amount of time botanizing around Lake Sylvia the time had come to start back down the mountain. This view to the northeast shows the large cirque formed between the summits of Mount Price and Pyramid Peak. I did not have time to survey this true alpine Life Zone. Many interesting alpine species can be found in this area, but this survey will have to wait for another day.

[Jasmin]:  In fact, there are two or three little lakes on top.  It is very beautiful, and it is my hope to get back.  The Sylvia Lake Trail has been our traditional outing together.  It is one of the few botanical outings I have shared with Robert.



In this photograph the summit of Pyramid Peak, 9,985 feet (3,043 meters), can be seen towering over Lake Sylvia. The tiny Alpine Fescue, Festuca brachyphylla ssp. breviculmis, can sometimes be found among the highest peaks of the Crystal Range. This species is much more common in the southern range of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Alpine Fescue is just one example of the many choice alpine species that can be found at the highest elevations in the Crystal Range.



At this time I turned my attention to the subalpine meadowlands below but still in the vicinity of Lake Sylvia, and the array of plant species that grow in these habits.

[Robert]

Before I continue my account of my 5 October outing to the upper Lyons Creek Basin and Lake Sylvia, I will briefly review the weather season and provide an update on the current conditions here in our part of Northern California.

The 2023 season started with a strong La Niña. Temperatures were much below average and precipitation was much above average with very low snow levels in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As the year transitioned to summer, the La Niña ended and we rapidly moved toward an El Niño type weather pattern. Summer temperatures were average. During August and September the Sierra Nevada Mountains experienced periods of intense thunderstorm activity and above average precipitation. The period around 21 August, as the remnants of Hurricane Hilary moved through our region, was especially rainy on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada crest in Southern and Central Sierra Nevada Mountains. There was widespread flooding and a great deal of soil erosion in some areas.

As autumn transitioned into winter, we are currently in a strong El Niño weather pattern. Temperatures are above average and precipitation totals are about 65% of average to date. In the Sierra Nevada Mountains, snow levels have been extremely high. Snow amounts are about 25% of average to date. Currently, 15 December, a weather pattern shift is taking place, and we will enter a period of much needed precipitation. Unfortunately, snow levels are expected to remain high. High snow levels during the winter months are very typical of the El Niño pattern in our part of California. Precipitation for the current season is in question. Climate change has changed how El Niño impacts our region, and above average precipitation during El Niño events no longer has a high degree of probability of occurring. We shall see what the season brings.

[Robert]

Caltha leptosepala is a common species frequently found in seasonally hydric habitats. It is not unusual to find this species in full bloom partly submerged in running snowmelt water. Here in early October, the plant leaves are moving into senescence as the plants prepare for their winter dormant rest.



Potentilla flabellifolia is another species tolerant of seasonally hydric habitats. This species often occupies low points in seasonally flooded meadows. I know of one instance where this species thrives in a shallow seasonal pond. The plants are completely submerged in shallow water until early summer when they break dormancy and begin growth and bloom quickly after the waters recede and the pond begins to dry.



I found a few Erigeron glacialis var, glacialis in bloom along the trail as I descended toward the trailhead. This species is an early blooming species commonly found in mesic meadow habitats in the Canadian Life Zone of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Given the abnormally wet late summer and early autumn weather, I was not surprised to find a few plants in bloom.



Meadow Penstemon, Penstemon rydbergii var. oreocharis, is found in mesic meadows throughout the Upper Transition and Canadian Life Zones of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This species frequently occurs in the drier portions of a meadow complex. These drier zones can become somewhat xeric late in the summer or during especially dry seasons.



The creeks in the upper portions of the basin were flowing quite high considering the time of year.

[Robert]

It is a short hike from Lake Sylvia to the confluence where the outlet stream from Lake Sylvia merges with the outlet stream from Lyons Lake. At the end of the last Ice Age, this area may have been a series of shallow ponds. However, today this area has filled with soil and organic matter and is a marshy wetland. Carex and other species tolerant of hydric and highly acidic conditions thrive in this area. The hydric low points are ringed with dense thickets of Rhododendron columbianum. Smaller acid loving species such as Kalmia polifolia also find a niche in this wet-mesic fringe area.



Lyons Lake is perched high above the confluence of the two streams. A huge rocky face consisting of Pyramid Peak Granite flanks the lake. It is a very difficult hike to the top of the cliff face, however one is rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Near the summit of Mount Price is a large bench filled with a large array of alpine plant species. Two species of interest at this site are Lewisia pygmaea and Lewisia longipetala. This is likely the southern limit of Lewisia longipetala in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In Jepson’s Manual its range is stated to continue into the Central Sierra Nevada Mountains; however I have never encountered the species in this area and I have never seen herbarium samples or read reports of this species from this area. It is a full day’s journey to explore Lyons Lake and alpine areas near the summit of Mount Price. I did not visit Lyons Lake on this outing, but hope to visit this area again soon



Below the marshy wetlands, Lyons Creek begins to drop quickly in elevation.



In moist semi-shaded areas it is not unusual to see Anaphalis margaritacea.



In much drier semi-shaded habitats Doellingeria breweri is commonly seen. The yellow rayless, flowers are quite attractive, especially on specimens that flower abundantly.

[Robert]

Before reentering the burn scar area, I encountered a fair number of large dead conifers. These trees expired during the extreme drought years beginning in 2019 and extending through much of 2021. The length and magnitude of drought has been increasing in our region since 2000. This climatic shift is having a significant impact on the flora of our region. Most unmanaged ecosystems show a great deal of resilience to these changes; however these systems too are increasingly impacted by drought and additional factors such as increasing temperatures and a declining number of snow cover days.



As I entered the burn scar area, the trail descended again through a sub-alpine fell field. Here many beautiful rock plants thrive. Eriogonum nudum var. deductum is the smallest variety of Eriogonum nudum. This subspecies is most commonly found at the highest elevations within the range of this species. The difference between the taller growing varieties of Eriogonum nudum and variety deductum is more one of gradation in elevation: With increasing elevation the plants become smaller; however in some populations there is a mixture of both semi-dwarf and dwarf plants. The variety deductum does seem valid, as the tiniest plants from high elevation do retain their dwarf stature at much lower elevations.



The wiry Eremogone kingii var. glabrescens generally blooms much earlier in the season. The unseasonal abundant rain during the late summer and autumn likely prompted this specimen to bloom again. The specimen might look more like Phlox diffusa. Yes, there are two plants sharing the same space. The Eremogone is growing out and around the semi-dormant Phlox.



Cryptogramma acrostichoides is very much at home in these sub-alpine fell fields. It has a strong preference for drier sites and is often found tucked closed to the base of rocks. In this region, its close cousin, Cryptogramma cascadensis, is always found in moist-mesic niches among boulders and rocks in the high elevation Alpine Life Zone.



From the sub-alpine fell field I continued down the trail into the main portion of the burn scar area.

[Robert]

This last photograph, from higher ground, gives an indication of the density of the forest before the fire burned through the area. The release of nutrients and the vast increase in solar radiation reaching the forest floor has greatly altered the ecology and plant communities that once inhabited the previously climax Lodgepole Pine forest.



There were a few noteworthy plants seen before entering the burn scar area. Creamy-white is the most commonly observed flower color on specimens of Monardella odoratissima var. pallida. Lavender flowering forms of this subspecies do occur. Lavender flowering forms of variety pallida are easily distinguished from the lavender flowering variety glauca by the reflexed unmodified leaves subtending the flower clusters. In addition, variety glauca is more likely to be encountered east of the Sierra crest.



This flowering specimen of Castilleja nana was a fortunate find among the rocks before leaving the fell field.



In some locations, large colonies of the annual Navarretia leptalea ssp. leptalea had colonized areas that had once been far too shady for this species.



I found a few plants with lingering flowers. When large colonies of this species are in full bloom it is a spectacular sight.

[Robert]

Lupinus fulcratus is a perennial species that is frequently seen in lightly shaded sites in coniferous forest within the Canadian Life Zone of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This species prefers dry-mesic sites. The flowers are lavender-blue with a white spot on the banner, which is a common feature of many Lupinus species.



Phacelia hydrophylloides is another species that prefers dry-mesic sites in lightly shaded portions of the coniferous forest. The flowers of this species are generally white flushed with lavender. It is a low, somewhat spreading species with very attractive textured foliage.  Here it is shown with a red fir, Abies magnifica var. magnifica, seedling.



The fire triggered abundant germination of the perennial species Pseudognaphalium thermale. During the many decades I have been botanizing along this route I have never seen this species growing in such profusion.



Fireweed, Chamerion angustifolium ssp. circumvagum is another species that has benefited from the opening of the forest canopy by the fire. In the low right corner of the photograph Pseudognaphalium thermale can be seen with flower buds.



A number of seasonal streams flow through the now burned out forest. These seasonal streams were once home to unique plant communities of mesic, shade loving plant species, such as an assortment of native Viola species, Pectiantia breweri, and other noteworthy species. I examined each of these sites carefully for the plant species I once logged at these sites and found no traces of these species. The fate of these plant communities is unknown at this time and I will need to study these sites carefully as these ecosystems develop a new state of equilibrium.

[Robert]

I was very pleased to find this colony of Antennaria rosea still intact. I have been observing this colony for decades and was pleased to find the plant not only intact but also thriving.



Once I reached the meadowlands of the lower portion of the basin, I hiked past huge swathes of drying Symphyotrichum spathulatum var. spathulatum full of ripe seed. These large colonies must have been an incredibly beautiful sight during the summer when they were in full bloom.



I found a few specimens still in bloom. It is a late blooming species, so I was not surprised to find a few stray flowers.



In moist areas, the drying stems of Aconogonon phytolaccifolia towered 2 plus meters in height above the ground. Some of the tall stems had begun to collapse as the plants moved into dormancy.



The stems of Veratrum californicum var. californicum were also well advanced in senescence; awaiting the late autumn snow and their winter dormancy.

[Robert]

The root systems of Quaking Aspen, Populus tremuloides, were unharmed by the fire. Although the top growth of the trees was burned to the ground, abundant suckers have sprouted from their extensive root systems.



The new growth arising from the roots was extremely vigorous and the leaves on many of the suckers were much larger than normally seen on this species.



I found a number of Scarlet Indian Paintbrush in bloom, Castilleja miniata ssp. miniata. Along this section of the trail I have logged yellow forms of this species. I did not see any on this outing; however I am hopeful they survived the fire and are still in the area.



The red fruit of Sorbus californica is very attractive, especially setoff against its bright yellow autumn foliage. Sorbus californica grows to be a small tree or large shrub.



When I arrived back at the trailhead, in full daylight, I could see the full extent of the slash piles created as the firefighters made a firebreak to stop the advance of the Caldor Fire.

[Robert]

This site was once a Lodgepole Pine forest with its associated plant community. It is disappointing to see this site stripped of trees; however the firefighters did what was necessary to stop the advance of the Caldor Fire.



I have many photographs of this site before the Caldor Fire burned through the region. This is how the site appeared before the firebreak was created. It will be interesting to observe how this site responds to the changes in the coming years. Climate change has vastly changed the “starting point” for the pioneer plant communities throughout the whole burn scar area. This climatic/environmental shift in the starting point will likely have repercussions in the developing plant communities well into the future and will need to be monitored and studied closely.

Until the next time….