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Author Topic: Calochortus 2009-2010  (Read 25882 times)

Rogan

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #60 on: August 13, 2009, 09:22:57 AM »
"A beautiful little flower like a pixie cap - 'scuse my ignorance, Roma, but I would like to know if they are sepals on top of the petals?"

They are sepals Robin, but with monocots they are called "tepals" as sometimes it is difficult to tell the se-pals from the pe-tals!  ;D
Rogan Roth, near Swellendam, Western Cape, SA
Warm temperate climate - zone 10-ish

David Nicholson

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #61 on: September 22, 2009, 07:34:50 PM »
I was just reading Robert Rolfe's appreciation of Kath Dryden in the latest AGS Bulletin and spotted this Calochortus quote attributed to Kath. " Keep them dry from flower-fall until the following February or March. The flower power from such small bulbs is phenomenal. A bulb lasts about 5-7 years here. They must have full light and hate being under glass while in sprin growth"

Last year I watered my Calochortus around 1st September with all my other bulbs and thought it too early so this year had not intended to water the Calochortus until 1st October. Now Kath has made me think, and if she's up there watching she's probably saying "Exactly what I intended young man".

Is Kath's watering regime viable? What do otheres think?

David Nicholson
in Devon, UK  Zone 9b
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Maggi Young

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #62 on: September 22, 2009, 07:51:50 PM »
A good move to follow dear Kath's advice for the more desert species of Calochortus, David.
Margaret Young in Aberdeen, North East Scotland Zone 7 -ish!

Editor: International Rock Gardener e-magazine

Darren

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #63 on: September 22, 2009, 08:05:51 PM »
Hi David,
             My two-pennorth: The more alpine species such as tolmei I generally water in early october as you intend, with the mariposa types following in november. Many years I just water the lot (including mariposas) in october anyway, they don't seem to mind.

I did notice when repotting them last week that C.amabilis has quite advanced roots already despite being bone dry.

Incidentally - I find with all Calochortus that they grow better crammed into really small clay pots (3 bulbs to a 3" pot). They are plunged but it means that during the peak growth season in spring they get watered and fed virtually daily but never get over-wet. I think this is why they do well for me. The best I ever had were potted the same way but not plunged. In april and may I had to water twice daily to prevent them drying out. They really seemed to like this but it was back in the days when I still had the time...

Darren Sleep. Nr Lancaster UK.

David Nicholson

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #64 on: September 22, 2009, 08:32:16 PM »
Darren, you've got me worried now, and I suspect Luc will be as well, as we had both read that Calochortus bulbs benefit from deep planting. This year I have re-potted from 9cm square plastic pots, which I use for the majority of my bulbs, into 2 Litre rose pots!!

I thought deeper planting might provide more support for the relatively lax growth some of the species have but your results seem tp prove the opposite. It's a funny old world!!

David Nicholson
in Devon, UK  Zone 9b
"Victims of satire who are overly defensive, who cry "foul" or just winge to high heaven, might take pause and consider what exactly it is that leaves them so sensitive, when they were happy with satire when they were on the side dishing it out"

Darren

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #65 on: September 23, 2009, 08:12:15 AM »
Didn't mean to cause any anxiety! I actually haven't tried deep planting so cannot comment.

I did note from the recent frit group bulletin article on growing frits in 'Seramis' that Paul Cumbleton finds Calochortus do well grown the same way - in deep pots of pure Seramis. I'm experimenting with it this year with some spare bulbs and we will see how I get on. I have also sown seed directly into deep pots of a mix of perlite and Wilcos pink cat litter (which is calcined moler clay the same as Seramis but with smaller & more variable particle size and much cheaper & easier to obtain). I have sown some cape bulbs in the same mix and germination and growth so far (after 6 weeks) has been superb.

Darren Sleep. Nr Lancaster UK.

Luc Gilgemyn

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #66 on: September 23, 2009, 08:50:30 AM »
Thanks for the expert opinion Darren - very interesting !
David is right.. I did read somewhere that Calochortus need "big" pots and fairly deep planting.
Having grown them only for the first time the past season, I'm definitely NOT a specialist, but they did quite well for me in the mix of 50 % J.I. 2 and 50 % grit in 2 liter pots.  I also applied the I. Young watering regime of September and October storms... the first leaves showed already in December...  they flowered ok at the normal time.
I had therefore decided to start watering them later this Season, I was thinking of November...
From reading the above... different growers = different methods...
 ;D ??? ::)
Luc Gilgemyn
Harelbeke - Belgium

David Nicholson

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #67 on: September 24, 2009, 10:18:46 PM »
Very interested in your seed sowing method Darren, let's know how you go on as time goes by.
David Nicholson
in Devon, UK  Zone 9b
"Victims of satire who are overly defensive, who cry "foul" or just winge to high heaven, might take pause and consider what exactly it is that leaves them so sensitive, when they were happy with satire when they were on the side dishing it out"

fermi de Sousa

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #68 on: October 23, 2009, 12:32:16 AM »
The Calochortus season has started in this hemisphere!
Calochortus amabilis has survived a few years in the open rock garden and this year looks like it will set seed!
173410-0

Others aren't far off bloom!
cheers
fermi
Mr Fermi de Sousa, Redesdale,
Victoria, Australia

Lesley Cox

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #69 on: October 23, 2009, 01:14:01 AM »
Good luck with it Fermi, I never get more than a single seed in a single pod. :(
Lesley Cox - near Dunedin, lower east coast, South Island of New Zealand - Zone 9

Paul T

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #70 on: October 23, 2009, 01:38:19 AM »
Congrats, Fermi.  Very nice.
Cheers.

Paul T.
Canberra, Australia.
Min winter temp -8 or -9°C. Max summer temp 40°C. Thankfully, maybe once or twice a year only.

David Nicholson

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #71 on: October 23, 2009, 09:29:48 AM »
Very nice indeed Fermi.
David Nicholson
in Devon, UK  Zone 9b
"Victims of satire who are overly defensive, who cry "foul" or just winge to high heaven, might take pause and consider what exactly it is that leaves them so sensitive, when they were happy with satire when they were on the side dishing it out"

arillady

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #72 on: October 23, 2009, 10:17:45 AM »
Calochortus amabilis here is a little earlier it seems Fermi.
And another Calochortus species whose name escapes me.
Both were a hit with the Sydney Cottage Garden club members who had to walk from the main road as the very long bus would have bottomed out at the bottom of the access road to our property. Good for them. Pity was it was all up hill on the way back.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2009, 10:19:23 AM by arillady »
Pat Toolan,
Keyneton,
South Australia

Paul T

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #73 on: October 23, 2009, 11:08:24 AM »
Wow, Pat.  I've got to work out how to grow them better here.  ::)
Cheers.

Paul T.
Canberra, Australia.
Min winter temp -8 or -9°C. Max summer temp 40°C. Thankfully, maybe once or twice a year only.

arillady

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Re: Calochortus 2009-2010
« Reply #74 on: October 23, 2009, 10:16:04 PM »
Paul this east facing bed does not get watered at all apart from natural rainfall. I have a couple of junos in the same bed. Above them is a few pogon iris species such as Iris purpureobracteata, the subbiflora x revoluta clump, two suaveolens and a few other species.
The rocks may help with a slightly cooler root run in summer.
Pat Toolan,
Keyneton,
South Australia

 


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