The Hunt for Crocus wattiorum

[art600]

Next day was sunny and we decided to leave wattiorum hunting for a day and to visit Saklikent - a ski resort near Antalya.  This was to have a significant effect in the days to come.

Whilst there was nothing to see at Saklikent, we did see some plants on the way, including Crocus pallasii, Galanthus peshmenii (including one that was poculiformis), more Colchicum baytopiorum, and the munchers.  Cliff and Ian please note the sterling work Dan is doing to spread the word  

Photos show:-

Dan at Saklikent
Galanthus peshmenii
Crocus pallasii
The munchers

[art600]

Next day was a beautiful sunny day and we felt lucky.

The decision was made to go into the Goynuk Canyon Park.  We each paid our TL5.0 entrance fee (approx €2.50) and joined a happy band of German hikers on their walk up the Canyon.

It was necessary to cross the river.  There was no bridge, but a series of stepping stones emerging from the river.  Successfully negotiating this we proceeded towards the cafe and the 'kayaks'.  On turning a corner we were rewarded with our first sight of wattiorum - or could it be as we were not at the altitude specified.  Happily it was wattiorum growing in rock crevices amongst Galanthus peshmenii.  The German hikers ignored them completely and didn't even stop to question why we were twisting our bodies into curious shapes as we attempted to get some good pictures of this beautiful Crocus.

Jill and Chris were overjoyed to find it after so many frustrated attempts.  Dan and I were still determined to find it at the spot high in the mountains where the Watts had found it all those years ago.  We decided to return the next day, whilst the ladies  could visit other places and find other plants.

[art600]

I mentioned that our decision to take a day off and visit Saklikent was to have a significant effect - overnight there was another bout of monsoon weather, the roads turned into rivers, and the river in the Canyon rose significantly.

[art600]

Our last day.  Our flight was not until 17.30 so we decided to explore Goynuk some more.  

Kemer used to be a favourite base, but not anymore - the Russians have taken over.  Goynuk and, in particular, the Hotel Beydagi Konak, we would recomment to anyone planning a Spring visit to this part of Turkey.  The hotel was run by a family, was inexpensive, had hot water, towels changed daily, filter coffee at breakfast and fresh pomegranate juice at breakfast.  A very fortunate find and I am sure we will return.

Crossing the main coastal road, the D400 I think, we entered a whole new Goynuk - not for us.  I am showing you 2 of the hotels  
The Queen Elizabeth and a pseudo French chateau styled hotel.  At least the latter had a garden and water chute for the children.  I cannot imagine anything more ghastly.


On our way to the airport we stopped to picnic with some Colchicums - again identification would be appreciated.

Photos show:-
Queen Elizabeth hotel
French chateau style hotel
Our hotel
View from hotel
Details of our hotel
Unidentified Colchicums

[ashley]

A great account of your adventures Arthur, and very fine pictures; many thanks.  
What magnificent country for walking & botanizing.

I hadn't realised until now just how beautiful wattiorum is, and those cyclamen are wonderful too  

[art600]

I could not end this account of our holiday without recounting what happened on our way to the airport.  If I do not tell you, I am sure some of you will hear the story, since Jill & Chris were determined that more people should know.

We have fondly referred to the holidays we arrange as Serendipity tours.  This was no exception.  In spite of the miserable weather we all enjoyed ourselves, saw marvellous flowers, and met fascinating people.  What more could you want.

I arranged our car through the internet using Argus Car Hire.  They were used for our trips to the Peloponnese with total success and they are the cheapest  

We were met at Antalya airport and taken in a mini-bus to an area close to the airport, but outside the airport.  The car was as expected and met our needs for comfort and sufficient luggage space.  We were to return the car to this spot at 15.00 on November 10th and we would then be bussed to the airport - nothing simpler.

On the morning of the 10th none of us felt confident we would find the location to return the car.  With the help of the hotel we phoned their head office in Antalya and it was agreed we should return it there.  I remember asking if it was easy - of course it is, and when you get near just ask for them and everyone can tell you where they are.  Famous last words.

We were aiming for an old part of Antalya - Kaleici I think.  Spotted the sign, turned right, spotted another sign, turned right onto a tram track.  What to do - I went forward thinking I would find the road, only to find I was now between two brick walls either side of the tram track.  Mild hysteria in the back and looks of total astonishment on the faces of the local population.  Hoping there was not a  tram coming towards us , I proceeded speedily about 300 metres before I could escape onto a road.

We repeated the route, omitting to take the second right turn.  Now to find the office.  The first person spoke no English and did not recognise the firm from their invoice.  We stopped a young couple, who fortunately spoke English and said they would stay with us until we had found the office.  I parked the car in a carpark and Dan & I walked towards where we thought the office was- even when we were next door to the building a taxi driver did not know where it was.  Thank goodness for the young couple.  Dan & I thanked them very much and entered the office to find a manager who spoke no English - too late the young couple had vanished.  It was now 14.35 and we thought it took 30 minutes to the airport.

The manager spoke a little German and whilst Dan returned to tell Jill & chris we had found the office and were arranging our pick up, I struggled to remember German learnt more than 50 years previously.  I obviously had some success as the manager called the man at the airport and asked him to come quickly to the office.  When he arrived he accompanied me to the carpark where an anxious Jill & Chris awaited and then drove us speedily to the airport.  Just before the airport Dan & I recognised the road we would have taken to the rendezvous point  .  The driver got us there in good time and hoped we would use them on our next visit - we would.  Then into the airport to join a queue for nearly an hour to book in  

All's well that ends well, and our holiday certainly did that.  I would encourage anyone to take courage in their hands and arrange their own holidays in Turkey, the Peloponnese etc etc.  If 3 OAPs can do it - you can do it.

[art600]

Ashley
They are even more beautiful in the flesh, and the Cyclamen really are outstanding.

[ranunculus]

Magnificent report Art - many thanks!
Good to see that Dan hasn't switched allegiance to rap artistes (does he own a Ray LaMontagne or Tom Baxter T-shirt by any chance)? 
Would be interested in hearing your recommendations for wildflower locations near (relatively) Goynuk please?

[Janis Ruksans]

Amazing trip, Arthur. We were in same locality approximately at same time. I left Antalya to home early morning 4th of November. Before a little about plants I would like to tell some words about car-rent and hotels in Antalya. Possibly it will help to other travellers.

We rented car in Euro-car. Our first was excellent Renault-cangoo - superb car for 4 persons (we were only 3) with a lot of space for bags. On speedometer was only 30.000 km. We got it late evening and I checked wheels only following day afternoon when we were 500 km from Antalya. The resin on them was almost nude - such can't be after 30-thousand km. Having such on mountain roads, in heavy rain was halfway to autocide, so when we returned to Antalya we went back to Euro Car asking replace tires. After an half hour discussion they came to check and finally agreed that such are not driveable. (In spring in Istanbul we got tire with nail in it, which started to collapse still in Airport and I wondered while the car is not setting well on road before we reached the first parking spot on roadside where found that only half of air left in tire). They offered us new car in evening, fortunately Vaclav told that we have booked hotel in far distance, then in an hour car was replaced with another Cangoo, of same mileage and something better tires on it, but with several defects, so we carefully checked everything, even several broken spots inside, for they all will be listed on paper. Euro-car of course was not happy for such customers. Several years ago during LST expedition with Gothenburg BG we rented Minibus from Avis. They gave it to us with words that this is top-quality car usually used by their chief. It's anchor's broke on second afternoon, but Avis replaced it during night. So renting car in Turkey you must be carefull even using good brand rental companies. Usually new tires are replaced with old ones, so check everything!

I well know the problem with searching moderate priced hotels in Antalya. During my second trip to Turkey I used half a day searching for some. Now I know where is good hotels and how to reach this part of city. Leaving Antalya airport take direction to Antalya and then follow road signs to Kemer, Liman (sea port). It is long way by new roads around city-center, but very fast and really impossible to miss if you follow road signs and know quite specific Turkish mode of their placing, something different than in Europe, but really there would be no problems. After several turns on right side you will pass huge Migrosh supermarket and road will go by seaside. At first lights after Migrosh turn right and take left turn on first large street. It is second parallel street to beachside road. Just after turn will be London Hotel, but I can recommend you a little further LEMON HOTEL on right side of road. Excellent rooms, superb Swedish table type breakfest and all it for 30 TL (15,- GBP) per person. Clean rooms, hot water, silence. Only out of season ask at reception to switch on hot water. They speak English, German (at reception desk each second day works local teacher of English and German). Not far good restaurants. There are some moderate prised  hotels on beachside road, too between those 5-star monsters, but the road is busy and so rooms are noisy, too. From there excellent roads lead to West and to North, and not difficult to go East, too. It is on opposite side of Antalya, but excellent parking possibilities, good roads, closely setted supermarket, Post Office, Beach, and "easy to go everywhere" compensates some more km of drive.
Janis

[Janis Ruksans]

Crocus wattiorum was not between my special targets as it isn't so much variable as other species. We went by the same road to Goynuk as your group, Arthur. But it was on 2nd of November's afternoon, so we had no time to enter Milli Park and as you didn't find wattiorum by this road. But in first half of day we pictured excellent population of C. cancellatus lycius, few pictures attached. Shortly before Altinyaka we pictured small population of Colchicum sanguicolle - very easy identifiable by its red cataphyll (see picture). On other side of road is beautiful mountain view. Then we turned back and went to Goynuk by Canyon road. On roadside we spotted colchicums - seem to be decaisnei and dolychantherum side by side, the second with wider petals. Unfortunately at place (real jungles) with best groups my camera was accidentally switched to monochrome mode and I got only black-white pictures, something later the groups were much smaller. I'm not 100% certain about correct identification as anthers change size with age. Flowers were damaged by heavy rains in preceding night. 3rd of November we went to other direction for Crocus pallasii and so I left without pictures of wattiorum in wild. My own stock of it is quite large and now is close to end of blooming but weather is so dull that no picturing possible. They something suffered from frost last winter and I really was very surprised for so abundant blooming having only small corms. I'm thinking about offering it in my next catalogue.
Janis

[Luc Gilgemyn]

A wonderful "Tale of the unexpected" Art !!  
Reads like a thriller - but much better illustrated !!  

C. wattiorum surely was worth the "trouble" - I love these black anthered Crocus species !  Brilliant Cyclamen as well - really outstanding foliage !!  

Thanks a lot for taking us on your hikes... we didn't even get our feet wet..  

[Ian Y]

Art what a wonderful account of your trip - I also felt anxious as I read the last leg to the airport.

What a beautiful Crocus wattiorum is.

Glad to see Dan still rocks - advertising two great song writers and perfomers that are still part of my daily listening.

[Maggi Young]

Wonderful article, Art! I'm moving this to the "Travel and places to visit" section, where it may be more appropriate.... so much more here than just the truly scrumptious crocus!
Thanks!
 M

[Jim McKenney]

Thanks, Art, it's accounts like this which make me so glad I joined this forum.

[Tony Willis]

hi Arthur

what a great tale.I must have either been a day a head or one behind you at Goynuk. I of course had no problem crossing the river just leaping like a gazelle from rock to rock.

The cyclamen graecum are just stunning and in such quantity.

When I got back everbody said was the weather nice-was it warm. Yes some of the time but I was in Kas when the storm happened and it was almost impossible to stand up in the wind.

I arrived at Antalya airport at 2am and went to the airport hotel.They wanted 220 euros for the night so I nipped along to Side and found one at 15 euros including breakfast.

I always use Avis for car hire and have only had a one problem over many years getting an appalling car from the Istanbul city office.