Does it work to remove greenhouse glass panes for ventilation?

[newstart]

I am thinking of biting the bullet and buying a glass greenhouse. I seem to remember on reading some of the forums a while back that it was said that removing some of the glass panes made the greenhouse more accustomed to there surroundings. Can this be cleverally done to prevent other panes falling out in high winds. I thought to cut down the wind factor in replacement of each pane removed I could put some green shading windbreak netting so the wind would not come through so violentally. I am not in a really exposed location but it suprising how fast these gusts build. Any simple advice would be handy thanks!

[Maggi Young]

 David, I do think you will find a million and one reasons why a glass house is a good idea, when you do buy a glass house.

I'm not sure about the reasoning behind removing glass to keep the glasshouse more stable in wind. I wouldn't have thought that was the case. Certainly many of us do remove panes along the sides in the summer to help keep a good flow of air round alpines and other plants that might not appreciate the heat build up and stale air that might otherwise result, but I would guess that nearly all of us who do so, will replace those panes for winter.
Reason being that with greater wind speeds and strength likely in the winter, there is more chance of panes being blown out of the house then if there are gaps to begin with.  If a really bad wind storm blows up in the summer that would also be a chance, but less liable to happen then. In winter, even though our glass house doors are nearly always left open, we do close them in very windy weather, in case the wind rips in through the door and straight out through the glass!
A cracked pane of glass can similarly be a risk in high winds to allow the wind to enter the glass house and then cause havoc as it seeks a way out again.   It is  sensible when siting a glass house not to have the door facing the direction of the prevailing wind for that reason.
That being said, I hope I don't sound like every glass house is just waiting to blow apart in the first breezy day! A standard aluminium glass house, properly assembled on a decent level base, can be perfectly sturdy and last for a great many years without incident or accident. I would not think your idea of windbreak netting as an aid to reduce wind travel is a good one.

Hope this is some help!
 

[tonyg]

In a sheltered garden I have a 12'x8' glass/aluminium greenhouse with the glass removed from the sides at bench height.  I also have one vertical run removed at the end without a door.  I must empahsise that the greenhouse is sheltered from N, S and W winds by buildings, tall hedges or fences within a few metres but it has survived thus for 12 years with no damage.  I do not replace the glass in winter ... so I cannot grow plants which cannot cope with a bit of frost.

[Maggi Young]

Tony, I didn't know you managed to keep the glass out all year. As you say, this is in a sheltered spot, of course.

[David Shaw]

The aluminium frame of a greenhouse is very unstable and it requires the glass to give it rigidity. Having said that, in summer we remove severel panes of glass from each gable end of one of our houses to improve ventilation and replace them for winter.
With the second greenhouse I did not put any glass at all in the gabel end! I made up some wooden frames and covered them in green mesh and fitted these in place of the glass panes. This gives the rigidity but allows much more ventilation. The door of this house is treated similarily.

[Maggi Young]

I quite forgot to say    that when we remove the panes of glass we replace them with pieces of sturdy weldmesh which helps stabilises the aluminium framework.

[Hans J]

here is a pic from my greenhouse - I can lift one complete side ....thats perfect for the ventilation !!!
On the other side are also all windows open ( from middle of April until end of October )
The roof has on east side also 3 windows which are open the whole summer - in winter I use automatic opener for the roof and the east side ....soon I have more than 10 ° the windows open .
Sometimes I use in winter a fan on the ground area -special when I have watered.

I think the most importet for my plants ( many cacti and bulbs ) is a lot of fresh air

Never had a problem with the wind or storm !!!

this are older pics from 2007 ......in meantime I have build tables ( outside ) so I can grow my shade loving plants the whole summer on the east side - this area is now protect for to much sun with a shade net

Hans

[Luc Gilgemyn]

Now this is what I call well ventilated Hans !! 

[mark smyth]

I like what you have done

[Darren]

I like that too and it looks the perfect solution! One day when I have one built to my own specifications...

Meanwhile - My 7m x 2.5m wooden greenhouse has a large pane removed in the end opposite the door. This allows a through-draft and I think it is essential given that I just have standard ventialtion in the rest of the structure. I have a big piece of thick acrylic which bolts onto the frame to cover the hole in storms & hard frosts. There is  galvanised mesh over this and all the vents (inlcluding a false mesh door inside the real one) to exclude the wildlife.

[newstart]

Hi Maggie and anyone else who got confused. When i say that the greenhouse would be more accustumed to the surroundings i mean that for the alpines they need more ventilation like the ones which grow outside, rather than making the structure more stable. It certainly would not make the structure more stable thats for absolute sure. Ho ho!

[Susan Band]

Hi David,
I agree with Hans a roof shelter with part sides rather than a conventional greenhouse  is more useful. I have two parts to my commercial greenhouse. One part is just a roof with 3 open sides and one against the proper greenhouse. I use this all the time for my young plants where as the greenhouse proper doesn't have any plants in it, just potting benches   .I found that it got too hot in the summer and wasn't much use as frost protection in the winter. For propagation I now use a double bubble tunnel which I heat and doesn't have many plants in it in the summer, I am planning an extension to the shelter with a bubble polythene greenhouse with drop down sides (very expensive) You will find if you buy a normal greenhouse from the likes of B & Q it is best to adjust it with lots of ventilation or it will  be like an oven in the summer. As you can see forumists are great inventors maybe you can copy some of their ideas. A lot of commercial tunnels have net side, I don't know if you can get small ones, maybe that is a good idea as well.
Susan

[ranunculus]

With reference to B & Q and other large shopping giants, I am always tempted by the design of those trolley shelters. Many of the larger ones would make unbelievably sturdy and practical alpine houses - though the cost would, of course, be quite prohibitive (and neighbours might object to any introduction)?   

[newstart]

I also meant to ask about the toughened glass greenhouses. The one I was thinking of buying has toughened glass from top to bottom vertically. I am not sure about the roof this might be individual panes. I thought this could be a good option as there would then be no glass to remove away from the other panes on removal and replacement and less chances of accident with this with the winds. Also one single vertical piece of glass would be easier to erect I would think. I of course appreciate the fact that the 60cm x 60cm panes may give better control over the ventilation in winter if only a 1-3 are removed. I would probably just have the door open in winter if not windy and 2 vents at the top if particularly windy.

Also when it comes to shading in summer does the galvanised mesh ,which is attached to aluminium with wood frame, get covered with shading material. If anyone can provide a photo of how the wood frame attaches over the aluminium with mesh then I could guess the rest with how shading goes on behind this. If not I could always ask in summer again when the mesh and shading is on. Also how what mm or cm gap is there between the mesh and is it rigid or bendable.

thanks for the very helpful answers so far - all excellent!

[Maggi Young]

David, the weldmesh we use has approx 2cms square mesh.