Germinating now- - photos of seedlings

[SJW]

But for private growers, I think the  pot on en masse for as long as possible is a good method.  We've found that, by this method,  bulb seedlings will often grow on for a longer period before going dormant , too.

Absolutely. On balance, I've had better success with Cyclamen by just moving the seed pot en masse into a larger pot rather than by trying to prick them out too early. Although it helps not to sow seed too thickly in the first place, unlike with true bulbs where you can sow generously, as Ian's demonstrated many times in the bulb log. Having said that, I know there are cyclamen growers who do prick out young tubers. The problem for me with this is you can rapidly run out of bench space!

Which are the main alpine species where it definitely does benefit to prick out early though? Those with a tap root? It was recommended to me to prick out Androsace early rather than grow on in a group.

[Maggi Young]

Certainly those with a tap-root -  but I know folks who mange to successfully leave even those for quite a while - it may be a skill thing!!

Never had enough Andro seed  to have the problem of  sowing  thinly enough to make  'em  a problem!

[Lesley Cox]

There have been a number of pots on this thread recently showing Physoplexis comosa seedlings in quantity. Are these from a commercial source? Might one ask WHICH? and are they still available? Thanks.

[Matt T]

Fritillaria obliqua, seed from Marcus Harvey, sown 13 Nov 2014.
Narcissus calcicola, from Rannveig Wallis, sown 28 Aug 2014.
Muscari sp., a seedhead with a single remaining seed found in Parori Gorge, Peloponnese, sown 09 Nov 2014

[brianw]

For bulbs, that often form new bulbs well down in the pot I sometimes pot into a larger pot without removing the first pot. If I can I carefully cut off the bottom first but not always if it damages too many roots. This double or trebles the available food source and needs watering less often. Almost no root disturbance takes place this way, useful for seedlings just emerging, and even with the first pot bottom still in place the bulbs sometimes end up in the second pot via the drainage holes.

[Chris Johnson]

For bulbs, that often form new bulbs well down in the pot I sometimes pot into a larger pot without removing the first pot. If I can I carefully cut off the bottom first but not always if it damages too many roots. This double or trebles the available food source and needs watering less often. Almost no root disturbance takes place this way, useful for seedlings just emerging, and even with the first pot bottom still in place the bulbs sometimes end up in the second pot via the drainage holes.

An interesting procedure Brian, but doesn't that cause you problems later when you do want to pot on individually?

Chris

[GordonT]

There have been a number of pots on this thread recently showing Physoplexis comosa seedlings in quantity. Are these from a commercial source? Might one ask WHICH? and are they still available? Thanks.

Lesley, I don't know where the growers got the seed for their pots, but Jelitto Seeds has Physoplexis comosa in stock. Hope this is helpful.

[brianw]

An interesting procedure Brian, but doesn't that cause you problems later when you do want to pot on individually?

Chris

It depends on how perennial the roots are. If you just end up with a "bulb" at the end of the season it may just be in the outer pot so no problem, but carefully cutting out the pot from a tangle of roots, with a dormant bulb may not be too difficult either. I remember many years ago when exhibiting cushions I was advised to repot the present pot entirely, and then after, remove it carefully and crack or cut off the original pot, hoping the root ball holds it all together and you can drop it back into the shaped hole. With a plastic pot you can remove the base, slit the side, lower it into the hole and then lift the old pot out.

[Lesley Cox]

Thank you Gordon. I'll get in touch with them.

[fixpix]

Can I ask something.
After you sow and cover with grit or something do you ever water again (sprinkle or something)?
I think I am making a mistake.
I tend to sprinkle once in a while, thinking more moisture is needed, probably because of the light "dry" look of the grit.
This may cause rot in the pots, right?
But how can you know the seeds have enough moisture, if you can't see what goes on underneath?

[Maggi Young]

If, like us, you put pots of seed outside, at least until they germinate, then there is little chance they will get too dry.  If your potting mix is good then they will drain well and so will not get too wet either- though you can alsways arrange some cover if the weather is too wet for too long.

If you have the pots under cover all the time  you can learn to tell how much moisture is in the mix by feeling the weight of the pot. It is a question of observation and practice.

[meanie]

These Aconitum volubile seeds started to germinate after a week...............


Very frustrating as I just placed them in the living room with the plan of putting them in the fridge after two or three weeks. Now I need to make space for these seedlings.

Puya berteroniana................


I really need to pot this one up soon.

[Matt T]

More Crocus (thanks Crocus Group/Wim)!

Crocus kotschyanus leucopharynx
Crocus speciosus
Crocus pulchellus ex 'Zephyr'

Also, I sowed these Tropaeolum speciosum in October 2013. For some reason I didn't extract the seeds from the berries, I don't know why now, maybe I was just being lazy?! Two seedlings up so far. Just need to find somewhere sheltered enough for them to grow... 

[Carolyn]

As Corydalis malkensis appears in the garden, so too do new seedlings start to germinate.  Last year when I harvested the seeds, I separated out the ripe, black seeds, the dark brown ones, and the pale brown or yellowish ones, which were not really ripe.  The black seeds were sown in the middle pot.  There has been no germination at all from the seeds which had not turned black.  The seeds were sown fresh.

[Rick R.]

I've been wondering the same thing with impatiens seeds.  I was going to try black and brown Impatiens glandulifera seeds, but I can almost swear that my seeds, that were black when harvested, turned brown!  So the trials will have to wait another year, so I can be sure.
-------------------
The claim that Deinanthe seeds are ephemeral is exaggerated.  These tiny Deinanthe caerulea seeds were harvested in mid October 2014.  They were kept in an open tea cup at room temperature for four months, until planting, 13 Feb, 2015.  Germination on a moist paper towel started on 6 March.