Trees for a woodland

[WimB]

I don't know very well where to put this question. Maggi, you can put in in another thread if it belongs somewhere else.

I'm going to start transforming a part of our meadow into a woodland and I'm wondering which trees (and shrubs) would be good to create shade there. It would be best if they don't compete to much with the plants I want to put underneath (Trillium/ Jeffersonia/Glaucidium/Jeffersonia/Adonis/Epimedium/...). Since I'm a newbie in the area of trees any and all advice would be welcome.

[Susan Band]

Hi Wim,

I would suggest that you would be best to spend some money and buy some specimen trees, bare rooted often grow best in the long run over pot grown. Don't plant them too close,at least 5-10m apart, a few large special trees will be an added attraction and over time will give plenty of shade. No doubt there will be some suggestions for specific trees from others but avoid fast growing conifers, you will only regret it later. You have a long time to live yet.

Susan

[daveyp1970]

Wim i would use Acer japonicum in its variety and Betula utilis Jacquemontii and for more wow factor cercis canadensis.
One more thing do the ground prep now and plant late autumn early winter.

[ian mcenery]

Wim here are my favourite list of trees and some will need some cover. It depends on whether there are trees already. Non of these are big or fast growing and my advice is be patient and create something worthwhile

Acer griseum - this is my number 1 it has 365 days a year of pleasure
Acer palmatum atropurpureum superbum nice all year  and amongst the very best autumn colour
Acer japonicum aureum or whatever it now called
Betula jaquemontii
Prunus serrula
Cornus controversa variegata aad or alternifolia variegata
Cornus kousa chinensis or one of the nice hybrids in this group I have Norman Hadden
Stewartia pseudocamellia
Styrax japonica
Eucryphia nymanensis nymansii
Magnolias I like  denudata and there are one or 2 nice hybrids like Caerhays Surprise and Star Wars to name but 2
Sorbus depends on space I like cashmeriana, vilmorinii and Joseph Rock

Hope this helps

[Natalia]

 I do not recommend to use many birches - they suck away a moisture from soil - at least Betula verrucosa (В pendula) and B. pubescens. Under them do not like growth forest plants - at them a dry shade.

[RichardW]

One more thing do the ground prep now and plant late autumn early winter.

this! unless you want to spend the whole summer watering, all my tree planting is done late Oct/Early Nov.

few other suggestions for small trees that wont create too much leaf litter + have spring/autumn colour.

Malus, Red Sentinel & Crittenden.
Malus Transitoria
Amelanchier lamarckii
Crataegus p. splendens

[Kristl Walek]

While late fall/early winter is an excellent time to plant many woody species---early spring is a good time for many.
Magnolia, for instance, especially the evergreen sorts are often best spring planted.

The snow has just disappeared at my end of the world, and I have, in fact,  been busy planting woody species.

[Lesley Cox]

I would add Sorbus to the above suggestions. They colour superbly here, have good crops of flowers and fruit, even if the birds do take them after a while. I bought one just yesterday, looking a bit like S. sargeantiana but without the sticky buds. It was labelled simply Sorbus species, Ghose, whom I take to be the Indian gentleman who has so any plant connections within that country.

You will notice Wim that almost all of the above names are of deciduous trees. In other words, avoid conifers altogether if you want to plant under them. The eucryphias are evergreen, but slim and elegant and very choice.

If trees colour well in your area, add Acer rubrum in various cultivar forms. 'October Glory' is outstanding for autumn colour.

[Diane Whitehead]

I recommend Multi-Season Shrubs and Trees by Richard Gorer,
published in 1971 by Faber and Faber.

He doesn't consider only flowers and fruit, but also coloured new leaves, colourful autumn leaves, ornamental new wood, and bark.  A few of his selections have rarer qualities like secondary flowering
in autumn or brightly coloured thorns.

He starts with Acer and goes through the alphabet to Viburnum.

He also has a tabulated list, and a quick glance through shows that Sorbus
lanata has all of the above major attributes except for coloured bark.

[WimB]

Thank you all. I think I can get started now. I'll keep you informed of the progress.

[Maggi Young]

I recommend Multi-Season Shrubs and Trees by Richard Gorer,
published in 1971 by Faber and Faber.

 A book I never heard of, Diane ( to my shame but I will search it out.
 Thanks for the info.  


 Edit, a short time later..... found book on Ebay and it is ordered.
There are others  available here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MULTI-SEASON-SHRUBS-%26-TREES-by-RICHARD-GORER_W0QQitemZ150333475547QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=222924056229&rvr_id=222924056229&cguid=65545e9012d0a47a04577827feda1fb3


and here  http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Multiseason-Shrubs-and-Trees,-Richard-Gorer,-Very-Good-_W0QQitemZ120694766254QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=222918585957&rvr_id=222918585957&cguid=65545e9012d0a47a04577827feda1fb3

[gote]

To some extent it has to do with how large you want them to be in the long run.
They will become too large surprisingly quickly.
My situation is different since many trees you can grow will die here but...
I agree with the warning against larger betulas.
Corylus avellana is quite good. Woodlanders like Hepatica like the situation beneath.
Cercidiphyllum is quite good here. So are Hamamelis and magnolias.
Göte

[Giles]

Interesting that you mention Corylus - as I had wondered if coppicing would be an option.
It would give a lot of flexibility as to pattern and depth of shade, and could easily be used in a smaller space.

[Nick_the_grief]

ah you see you lot are gardeners first

I'll agree with any of the Japanese Acers - I love em but then I'd plant Birch, Holly and either Rowan or an Apple or two and sit back with my camera and wit for the wildlife to come in 

[gote]

Interesting that you mention Corylus - as I had wondered if coppicing would be an option.
It would give a lot of flexibility as to pattern and depth of shade, and could easily be used in a smaller space.

That is what I see as advantages but also that the shade will not be very deep. Disadvantage is of course that leaf colour cannot match maples and flowers not magnolias. However the young flowers are a discreet harbinger of spring.
Göte