cyps in pots 2012

[monocotman]

Hi,

a few photos of this years set up.
The pots are all now out of the garage and on benching that has been moved out of the greenhouse on a temporary basis.
As I've got older I've got tired of bending over to look at them when they're in flower.
So much easier when they're at eye level.
I've rigged up some shade cloth on either side and will add some more above them soon.
Protection from wind and rain means the flowers last longer and I'm less likely to have stems snapped off by the wind.
I lost a couple of stems like this last year.
All plants grow in large pots in mainly super coarse perlite.
Shoot increase so far has been excellent - probably due to last summers cool weather.
No heat stress.
The second photo shows early hybrids - mainly fasciolatum hybrids, Sunny, Inge and Sabine.
The last photo is the hybrid Sunny - 23 growths from 13 last year. Most of them will flower.
The plant was divided in 2009 as it had reached 20 growths and is a very vigorous hybrid.
As I now have a small replacement I may try to see how big it can get before it goes downhill,

Regards,

David

[Maren]

That's a lovely collection of specimen plants, David. I look forward to seeing them in flower. won't be long now.

[Stephen Vella]

That's an impressive set up there David.so you use 100% corse perlite? So how often would you have to water and fertilize, what sort? I'm allways surprised when you hear of growers not using organics it seem so artificial and not beneficial.

[angie]

David that's fantastic  I would love to have a collection like yours. My small collection is growing well. You say you are growing yours in course perlite but what is on the top of your pots. I too just like to hear how others grow their plants.
Cant wait to see them in flower.

Angie 

[Neil]

Angie they are called clay pebbles/balls

[angie]

Angie they are called clay pebbles/balls

OK, I have seen these. Excuse my ignorance but what good do they do.

Angie 

[Neil]

From a supplier of these


This inert, reusable media is lightweight and pH neutral. Use in flood and drain or drip feed systems or for topping off soil borne plants in pots. Can also mix with soil to improve aeration and drainage.

[arisaema]

It's Leca, isn't it? Here in Norway it's usually cheaper to buy bags from builder's supply stores, than to buy it at garden centres.

http://www.netweber.co.uk/lecareg-uk.html

[monocotman]

Hi,

Stephen - I know it looks artificial but it makes culture very straight forward. I haven't had a single rot issue in 5 years with any stem and there are now over 90 pots.
Providing that the plants establish OK in their first year, it is plain sailing.
Plants are watered on average twice a week, maybe more if it is hot and fed every week now during stem growth and then every other week after they've finished flowering.
I use the usual white ( or blue) powders, nothing fancy. If I remember they receive high potash tomato fertilizer later in the year, say August onwards.
During this time they seem to be making many new roots.
Hybrids receive full strength feed and species quarter strength.
I've had a few issues with new growths appearing to be quite pale initially so this year I've fed them during dormany twice, once with the normal stuff and once with epsom salts. I've used this feed for the first time this year on my indoor orchids and they've really benefited and 'greened up' very nicely.
Under this regime, hybrids increase quickly ( at least doubling usually, especially when 2-3 stems)and species more slowly.
Concerning your macranthos problems - have you thought of sitting your pots in a bit of water for most of the day?
I find that macranthos doesn't make the biggest root ball so if you overpotted you could be fairly sure of not rotting many roots that make it down to the bottom of the pot.
I tried it myself a couple of years ago and it worked but didn't make much difference to overall growth. I just lost a few roots on Sunny that ran round the bottom of the pot but it didn't seem to mind.
Angie, the top dressing is 'hydroleca' and seems to deter slugs and weeds. It certainly looks a bit nicer than perlite and acts as a mulch over the pots. The two different colours you can see is because they changed the product last year. The old smooth brownish clay balls have been replaced with red rough stuff that isn't anywhere as circular. Not an improvement in my opinion but probably cheaper to produce

Regards,

David

[mark smyth]

When can I repot mine? Some have filled their pot with roots.

What size pot? What potting medium? I have lots of cambark and leaf mould

[Peter Maguire]

When can I repot mine?

About a month ago Mark. 
Seriously though, I thought that I was the only one to repot when they start into growth, but I found out this year that I'm not alone. I generally am galvanised into action when the first green point (usually Cyp formosanum) appears and they are all then done within the week. I would keep the organic component of the compost low (20-30% maximum, depending on your watering regime).

David,
I am intrigued to see that you say you only water twice per week on average. You seem to have a lower organic component to the compost than me (you said mainly super coarse perlite - so less than 10% organic matter?) and I am using pumice, not perlite, so it may be slightly less water-retentive, but I water twice a day during the summer (briefly, with an automatic timer for 15min early morning and late evening when there is no chance of direct sunlight). I wonder if I'm watering too much, and flushing away any added feed. My Cyps increase well once established, but not at the rate yours do.

[mark smyth]

My watering regime will probably be when it rains

[monocotman]

Mark,

you can repot them anytime but when they're dormant is best.
I'd do it now if they're pot bound.
I use really big pots but with perlite that isn't a problem -
it isn't a normal compost and does not 'sour'.
It is perfectly free draining even after several years use and never breaks down.
I agree with Peter - whatever you use you need to make sure that the compost is very free draining,
any compaction or souring will kill the roots and rot the rhizome in double quick time.
You can use organics but add plenty of inert ingredients to ensure quick drainage.
You need to aim for something akin to cactus compost as a final medium- mainly
composed of inert material but with a bit of organics.
The higher the % of organics in the medium, the more chance you have of compost problems.

Peter - most of my compost has about 10% orchid bark added but I have  few plants in 100% perlite and cannot see any difference.
Twice a week would be average across the season but it rises to every other day in summer. They are sprayed twice a day in hot weather - anything over 25 degrees.
The plants it under a red sycamore for the summer and receive a couple of hours early morning sun.
Less time spent watering is one of the reasons that I overpot - I rarely use anything less than a 6 inch pot, rising to 8 and 12 inches when bigger. Another beauty of perlite - pot size is immaterial as it isn't a proper compost and never breaks down.
It is difficult to comment on someone else's regime without seeing it but my guess would be that you don't need to water quite so often.
Do you have photos of your set up
What colour are the leaves of the plants?
If you're leaching the compost then that ought to give a clue,

Regards,

David

[angie]

David I have found that my plants have paler leaves this year. So its nice to hear that it's not just me. I like when you said spray when its over 25 degrees well thats something we don't get up here  so I don't have to worry about them getting overheated.

It is nice to see and hear about what works for others and I am trying a few different things out myself. Lets hope I don't kill of what I have 

Angie 

[Maren]

Hi Angie,

like others on this forum I use Epsom salts to 'green' up the leaves of not only cypripediums but other plants too including pleiones, usually two application per year, a couple of months apart. It can be obtained easily in most garden centres.