Nikon D3200

[mark smyth]

Arnold I have on going focus problems

Nikon
Canada geese
Brent geese
Lapwings

1. Canon IXUS 230 macro
1. Nikon D3200 70-300 macro lens

[Ed Alverson]

Mark, there are some pretty significant differences between point-and-shoot cameras and digital SLR's.  One is that depth of field is significantly less for a DSLR than a point-and-shoot due to the larger sensor size. Essentially, depth-of-field is a function of absolute aperture size, not f-stop (remember that f-stop is the ratio of the focal length and the size of the aperture opening). It is a bit counter-intuitive, but even though you get more pixels with a larger sensor, you get less depth-of-field. So you definitely need to pay more attention to depth-of-field with a dSLR when you are using it - try to shoot at f11 any time you are wanting decent depth of field. Again, it is counter-intuitive, but sharpness actually decreases above f11 even as depth-of-field increases. You can still increase depth-of-field with a dSLR by using a wide-angle lens, or the wide focal length setting with a zoom. Your two Galanthus photos seem to show differing depth-of field ( look at the background in each photo) so I think this is at least part of your issue.

Also, you might want to increase the sharpness setting on your dSLR, the default is typically the middle value, not the sharpest value. It took me a while to figure that out on my dSLR...

Ed

[mark smyth]

Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.

[David King]

Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.

I had exactly the same problems when I switched to a SLR and thought focussing was out. What Ed is saying is correct and you do have to adapt your photography and consider depth of field more.  On close ups you will find much more is less sharp than your focal point but if you look at professional flower photos this is often how they appear.  The closer you get to your subject the smaller depth of field will be and sometimes might only be a millimetre or two. A friend who is a professional photographer gave me a good tip re focussing.  Remember that when you decide where your focus point is, 1/3 of the area in focus will be in front of that point and 2/3 behind it.  I use it all the time.  I cannot see much wrong with your photos and they look sharp while with the snowdrop pictures I would expect some to be less focussed as they are out of the 1/3 2/3 area.

[David Nicholson]

Thanks Ed. I regret buying the camera and lens already.

A tenner to take it off your hands?

[David King]

A tenner to take it off your hands?

Raise you to fifteen.

[mark smyth]

The lens macro button is now stuck on macro. I tried removing the lens but it doesnt move. Any ideas.

David add a couple of 00s and it could come your way LOL

[David King]

David add a couple of 00s and it could come your way LOL

OK.  £15.00

[Paddy Tobin]

Mark, there is probably a release button for removing the lens - probably to the left of the lens when you are holding it in the shooting position. Press the button, keep pressed, and turn the lens.

I'm no help to you on the macro button.

I would persevere with the camera. I think you will become used to it and find it far more versatile.

[Peter Maguire]

Mark,
If it's the Sigma lens you bought, then the macro setting only works between 200-300mm. Turn the zoom dial back to 100-150 and the macro button should click back to the 'off' position.

[mark smyth]

Just in from work and will have a go. Thanks

[mark smyth]

Macro lenses

Is it better to buy a fixed focal length macro, eg 50mm, or a 17-70mm macro. The latter is available over here ex display for £239.

The 50mm on Amazon is £259. The 105mm is too expensive at £430

[ranunculus]

Mark, I use the Sigma 17-70mm Macro and have been thrilled with the results.

[mark smyth]

Good to know thanks

[TC]

Mark, do you use automatic focus on plants ?  If so, try manual focusing.  Remember, the camera does not know what you wish to take .  A slight movement on your part can alter the point of focus to a blade of grass in front or behind the flower you are trying to capture.
After you have taken some pictures on automatic settings and put them on to your computer, right click a picture, on the screen left click properties and then choose details.  This will give you the technical details of the camera's settings.
In your camera's menu, you should also have an option for setting the sharpness and dynamic range etc. Remember, a digital camera is a computer with a lens attached.
Have a good read at the camera manual and try the different focusing options.  I am sure the camera and lens combination is perfectly good for your requirements  - it just takes some time to get the hang of what they can do.
Unless you are a gymnast and can lie in  very uncomfortable positions, some form of tripod and remote release would be a great help in photographing snowdrops.  Winter light is not strong. so longer exposures are necessary as apertures need to be a minimum of f8/11 for close -ups